OK guys, I need some help installing new cooling lines......

[Aclinml]

OK, two steps forward, one step back, but I am learning......

I decided to install new cooling lines to replace the stock ones on my Revolt 30. At the same time I am going to install a in-transom coupler to help keep leaks out of that area. So I drilled out the intake hole in the transom until I could barely fit in the coupler. I got the coupler installed (and now the stupid part), but soon realized I had no room left to try to get my fingers in there to install the line to the coupler. Part of the reason is because the inlay of the top of the hull that is where the hatch goes..........I tried to install some line on the coupler and feed it through that way but the line is way to thick to go through the hole, and if I drilled it out a little larger, I'm afraid the coupler would not seat properly.......
IMG_1195.jpg
So, these are the options I know of. Which ones would you guys prefer, or any other suggestion....

1. I could leave the stock tubing on from the rudder to the coupler and onto the motor, coming out with the thicker line after that.

2. Plug up the current inlet (marine epoxy) and drill another hole on the left side of the transom further down closer to the trim tab. Main problem I see there is the line going to the rudder to the left side of the transom will create more drag (and possibly pull the tube out of the rudder?!?)

Any help would be appreciated...........learn...learn...learn...
Mike

[Luck as a Constant]

fill the hole and drill a new one on the left.
every setup I've run, i do like that. no problems whatsoever. even at speeds of 60mph and up

[pescador]

Can you attach the line and push it thru from the inside and put the nut on the outside?
Then attach the outside line? You can file the collar down if it's tight inside under the edge of the hatch.


Brian

[tlandauer]

The two above methods are the intelligent way of over coming your dilemma.
I am not known to be smart or intelligent ( these are two different qualities, IMO)
Here is how I would approach:
Ask myself what I want , meaning is it the look or functionality.
If it is functionality, go with the above methods!
If it is looks, you need to do some work.
The location is so inconvenient that I would seriously consider epoxying the fitting into its hole and forget about the hex nut. Use a knife to scuff the underside of the fitting face nut where it will be seated on the transom, do the same with a knife to scrape away the blue paint/gel coat around the hole.
I use either JB Weld or regular 30 min. epoxy. Carefully dab around the threads and the underside, pushing it in while turn CW/CCW. When it is seated, the epoxy should just ooz out enough to form a " gasket" around the fitting face, don't use the rubber"O" ring. let cure and if possible, put some on the inside so some of the exposed thread so it is encased in epoxy as well.
You can of course use the nut but I would still use some epoxy to secure the whole fitting.
Now the fun part:
Get a piece of 5/32 brass tube and cut like 1". Attach the stock silicone tune, you will actually do better if using clear silicone tube as it is softer. Attach that to your short piece of brass tube and nudge it with your fingers and try to mate the other half of the silicone tubing onto the fitting, it should not be that difficult as it is a one way nipple, easy on, but more difficult off. ( hmm....)
Now attach the fancy looking Kintec tube to the other half of the brass tube and you are in business.
Just my $.02

[tlandauer]

Another way is to attach the stock tube on the fitting, then epoxy the fitting as I think the hole is large enough for the stock tube to go in.
Once inside, splice your tube, get a brass tube, and put on the fancy looking tube where it is possible. This is ultimately more practical, but makes the use of the hex nut impossible ( once the tube is attached, it precludes the nut to get attached). it also makes epoxing inside the exposed threads more difficult.
It's Sunday, I see I have too much time....

[JimClark]

Never used a fitting. I just drill a hole just big enough for the tube to go through
Look familiar Tim?
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[tlandauer]

Never used a fitting drilled a hole just big enough for the tube to go through

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

+1,
The next best way, IMO, is just to use a short length of brass tube, like 5/32. Epoxy it in place and use 1/8 barbs:http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...hp?prod=dh-813
or,
3/16 tube and 5/32 barbs: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...hp?prod=dh-814
I do that all the time and i can cut the brass tube to whatever length i need to easily attach the silicone tubing from inside the boat.

[tlandauer]

Never used a fitting. I just drill a hole just big enough for the tube to go through
Look familiar Tim?
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Yes, she is my prize boat, thanks much!

[turbovr6jetta]

I was able to use the stock hole that I enlarged sligtly. it's a bit of a pain.. and the last time I had to take it off I didn't bother with a clamp. But I did have it clamped at one point.

I think you can get it done. In the way you want to. It just a bit frustrating
20150208_120151.jpg

[turbovr6jetta]

20150208_120115.jpg

[Aclinml]

Thanks, guys, for all the options. I will select one of them and give it a go. I hope to have the boat water worthy by mid week for a maiden. Batteries are coming in tomorrow. 5000mah 45C. After I get some 5mm connectors soldered it should be ready to go. Had a lot of fun today with my Atomik Barbwire. Can't wait to get my first hobby grade boat a go.....been flying planes for several years, but now I'm really getting my feet wet (pun intended).

Thanks again for the help,
Mike

[Luck as a Constant]

Oh the joy when you hammer the throttle on that thing then....
Glorious


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[Pedro Ramos]

IMG_0322.jpg

[kfxguy]

If you haven't done anything here's a slightly differ but easy approach. I got tired of trying to get the hose on the fitting so I started using hull trim rings that you slide the hose through. Much easier to fool with. Example: