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Thread: Project HPR 233

  1. #31
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    Is there any reason you don't want to cut those mounts out of CF ? What would be nice is if you sandwich these wooden mounts in between 2 CF plates.

  2. #32
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    I would imagine they are templates?
    HPR 135 redemption, HPR C5009, modded zelos 36, 32 boats and counting.
    Flier ESC dealer, pm me for details.
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/EliteRCBoats/

  3. #33
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    His first image shows a cardboard template, then, as he said, he transferred the template onto wood and cut out those mounts. I just think the boat needs something stronger than just wood engine mounts. It's unheard of to use wood for such things.

  4. #34
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    He has a fantastic "system", I wish I have an aluminum template for the motor, I had to rely on medicine pill bottle. I also believe the wood is the "second" stage template. But it looks so good, I can almost eat it!
    Helmut, looking great!!!
    Last edited by tlandauer; 02-10-2015 at 02:45 AM.
    Too many boats, not enough time...

  5. #35
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    I would prefer to do a hard template in wood, then do any tweaking, filing, and fitting on a wooden template then transfer that to my final cf plate. That way any mistake made in trimming is done on wood and not a large expensive piece of CF. It's how I did my 51 victory mounts. Got a rough shape in cardboard, then did wood and mounted the motor to see angles and what not. Make the trimming. Then transferred that to my cf sheets. You can't bolt motors to cardboard and this way you get a complete and final look without messing with the cf til it's 100% ready.

    Also wooden mounts have held many large cc gas motors which vibrate and shake a hull far worse than any FE
    HPR 135 redemption, HPR C5009, modded zelos 36, 32 boats and counting.
    Flier ESC dealer, pm me for details.
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/EliteRCBoats/

  6. #36
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    Hi Guys

    the wood motor mounst are only templates.
    Wood is not strong enough.
    But later to this.

    Next step was to make the right holes to mount the drives on the Boat.
    First i thake the drives as a stamp,with a ink pad on self-sdhesive labels.
    After this i construct the middle point for the holes where the flexdrive goes trough ,on the labels.
    Than i cut out the labes and stick it on the right pace on the hull.
    After this i drill the holes.
    Next step was to mount and position the drives exactly.
    Last stpe was to drill the 4 holes for the back support

    so here some pictures










  7. #37
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    here some more pictures
    and next time it goes on with the final motor mounts

    bye
    mudl










  8. #38
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    Hello

    now mounting the final Motor mounts

    I sent my wood tampletes to frind of mine and he makes the mounts on a cnc milling machine from 6 millimeter Carbon.

    I psition the carbon mounts exactly in the hull and mark the position.
    Than i grind the hull and the carbon plates very exactly that the palte connect optimal in the hull.
    After this i fixed the carbon paltes with super glue.
    Next i stick it with resin.
    After this i laminate the motormounts with a 5 zentimeter carbon ribbon in front and in the back side in the hull.
    I think now they are strong enough for the Lehner Torqstar.










  9. #39
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    some more pictures










  10. #40
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    Very nice! Yea those aren't going anywhere for sure.
    HPR 135 redemption, HPR C5009, modded zelos 36, 32 boats and counting.
    Flier ESC dealer, pm me for details.
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/EliteRCBoats/

  11. #41
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    Next is the tubes for the flexdrives and the inlet for the Watercooling.

    I take brass tubes with 10/9,1 mm for the flexdrive tubes.
    First i burn out the tubes,so that the material is very soft and easy to shape.
    I cover the tubes with a black heat shrink.
    After this i fixed it in the hull at the back end with super glue.
    To shape it i put a teflon and the flexdrive in it and mount the motors with the coupplers.
    I shape the tubes with the fingers.This is very easy.
    After this i made two mounts for the tubes out of a 10 mm carbon plate.
    I glue it with a black thick resin in the hull.
    That the resin stands at his place i used rubber o-rings .
    The o-rings are fixed with super glue in the hull,so the resin cannot run out.

    Next is the watercooling.
    I drilled a 5mm hole in the bottom of the hull.
    After this i glued a 5mm brass tube in an angle of 90 degrees into the hull.
    This lets enough water in for cooling while the boat is driving and i also use electric pumps for cooling.










  12. #42
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    and some more photos








  13. #43
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    Looks great with the motors mounts! I would add some more support in the middle of those stuffing tubes as they seem really long and thin. You want to minimize vibration. Also, what is the size (in mm) of those water inlet tubes on the inside? They look a bit small but maybe that's because the boat is so huge.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by mudl View Post
    Hello

    now mounting the final Motor mounts

    I sent my wood tampletes to frind of mine and he makes the mounts on a cnc milling machine from 6 millimeter Carbon.

    I psition the carbon mounts exactly in the hull and mark the position.
    Than i grind the hull and the carbon plates very exactly that the palte connect optimal in the hull.
    After this i fixed the carbon paltes with super glue.
    Next i stick it with resin.
    After this i laminate the motormounts with a 5 zentimeter carbon ribbon in front and in the back side in the hull.
    I think now they are strong enough for the Lehner Torqstar.





    Greeting's Mudl,
    I have been a fan of pbfpassau for some time now. Red Eye Express is one of my fav's! You have some great builds in the past and I'm watching this one close.

    I have one of Radtek's HPR233 hulls and I've been gathering parts up quietly for it. Would it be to much to ask for a paper trace of your motor mount template's pictured above? They don't have to have the holes traced just the overall shape. I'm using LMT 3080's so I would drill out my own center's.

    I've tried a few guys who have built these before (even Hanspeter) but no one has kept a template of the mount's for the 233. I think I'll be using two pieces of 4mm CF back to back for a total of 8mm. Or I may order a sheet of 12" by 24" CF from a company here stateside. Not sure what I want to go with just yet. The sheet I have right now is finished on one side so bonding the two 4mm pieces would not be an issue. I've done it before using 3 pieces of 2mm CF
    and it was strong as ever. I just don't know how easy 6mm CF will be to cut.
    "If guns cause crime, all of mine are defective"
    45"Speedfreek
    , Fightercat #068 ​, MyYoutube Vids

  15. #45
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    Looking great as always. I'm very curious as to how you'll run the watercooling and use water cooling pumps as well. Will the pumps run full time to supply cooling or will you be able to switch them on and off, letting the cooling system run normally with them off? I hope that makes sense. Any details you can share as you install it would be appreciated.

  16. #46
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    The waterpumps runs the complete time boat is in the water.I can switch the pumps on and off with the transmitter.This system i have also in the Red eye Express.It works very well the last two years.Motor and escs are complete cold.

  17. #47
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    Thanks, much clearer to me now I know they run full time and taking a good look at the red eye express. This builds killing me, I can't wait to see how these motors perform. Are there props available out there that will allow you to take advantage of the monster torque of the motors?

  18. #48
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    You build a very high quality boat , nice job !
    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex... It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
    --Albert Einstein

  19. #49
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    Hi

    today only some pictures from the red painted hull








  20. #50
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  21. #51
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    Paint looks really nice! But why is the hatch fitment so uneven?

  22. #52
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    Nice choice of paint, looks like it went on perfectly.

  23. #53
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    Very nice!!! There a beautiful boat..... I have one as well, just need some servos and the lipos....

  24. #54
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    Greetings once again mudl,

    She is looking beautiful as expected

    How much for you to make me an air scoop like yours?

    Quote Originally Posted by mudl View Post

    Hi

    next step is building the air scoop.












    "If guns cause crime, all of mine are defective"
    45"Speedfreek
    , Fightercat #068 ​, MyYoutube Vids

  25. #55
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    Hi

    next is the building of the servo holder.
    This is a very simple part.
    I only take a 3mm carbon plate and drill four holes.
    In this holes i put and glue threaded sleeves.
    Than the servo is mounted with 4 long 5mm allen screws on the plate.
    After this i position the servo holder in the hull,grind up the hull on theis place and glued the servo mount with black resin in the hull

    ready








  26. #56
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  27. #57
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    Hi

    next step is to mount the rudder.
    i don't like the original way to mount the rudder with 4 screws M3 to the hull.
    So i make a plate which i can screw with 4 smal screws on the Rudder and the complete part(plate and rudder) is mount with only one M8 bolt on the hull.
    The 4 heads of the M3 screws i use to center the Rudder on the hull so that the rudder cannot twist.










  28. #58
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  29. #59
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    Hi at all

    here the last steps to complete the boat.
    First i make two holders for the Waterpumps from 2mm carbon.
    I glued it in the back with black resin.
    After this i prepared the Flex drives.
    The flex is glued in the shaft with Loctite 648.
    To dry it i layed it one hour in a oven at 80 degrees celsius.
    The other side i slodderd it.

    First i installed the Motor and the escs.
    For mounting the escs i put over a blue heat shrink and than i mount it with avelcro fastener at the sides of the boat.
    After this the lipo cradels are mount with black silicone glue sika flex.
    The cradels are made from 3mm carbon and they are so big to have place for 14s2P Lipos on each.
    I can adjust the lipos about 20 zentimeters in the hull.


    After this i installed the two barth cooling pumps .
    They work over transmitte the third canal with a jeti sp06 switch and a 3s Lipo.

    Last is the reciver,a killswitch from emcotec(for the reciver power supply)

    And now ready for the test drive.












  30. #60
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    some more pictures












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