help with shockwave 26

[okieman98]

i know this boat is slow can i but a different motor and still run 3s and use the same esc and make it alot faster it has the 1500kv motor and the upgraded prop from pro boat thanks

[kfxguy]

I just bought a v3. I changed motor and esc and it's at 40mph on 3s right now. Same can be done with yours. I highly recommend just selling the stock motor and esc and get upgraded units. You need to add a little weight to it too. If you dont, it will not stay on the water. See this thread.

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...436#post606436

[okieman98]

what kv motor did u use.

[kfxguy]

what kv motor did u use.

2400kv castle 1415 with a seaking 120. Over kill maybe, but it runs very well and cool.

[RCBoaterGuy]

So there's now two different version 3's??

PB called this one version 3... http://www.proboatmodels.com/Product...ProdID=PRB0650

Now your calling the new greenie version 3.... did I miss something??

IMO they "should have" called the one above version 2 since that's what it is. Actually it's a rebadged IM26, but you already knew that.

I just bought a v3. I changed motor and esc and it's at 40mph on 3s right now. Same can be done with yours. I highly recommend just selling the stock motor and esc and get upgraded units. You need to add a little weight to it too. If you dont, it will not stay on the water. See this thread.

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...436#post606436

[okieman98]

i think mine is a v2 or 3 who knows, i do like the new green. it came with the 1500kv motor and the 45 amp 3 s esc in white, i just looked to make sure. i been told to hang on to the 1500 kv because it will run 6s which i going to build soon. what motor upgrade can i do with this esc and what prop should i change to. trying to get ready over the winter. i will get one from hk(motor) any good suggestions

[RCBoaterGuy]

Yours is the same as the two I have (1 brushed, 1 BL), technically it's version 2, but PB called it version 3.

Started out to convert the brushed to BL, but never finished the project. Boxed it up & put it in the closet till I figure out what to do with it.
Got BL version hull off eBay Aug 2014, put a 2000Kv motor in it w/Seaking 60A speedo, ran it on Sky-LiPo 3s 40/80C batts (22,200 rpm's) ran very very nice

Bumped up the motor timing a notch and all hell broke loose, kept trying to roll over, to left facing the back. So based on that experience I'm gonna say that 22k~23k rpm's is about the limit for that hull. I was only running a 2-pole motor - had it on hand.

Used the stock plastic prop on the maiden.

Went to Leopard's website, couldn't find any 36mm 4-pole motors in the 2000Kv range. HK has a bunch of motors with gray cans, but 11.1 volts is the limit on them, 3s off the charger = 12.6 volts. So doubt if they'll last very long, on 3s anyways.

So to answer your motor question... I'd look for a motor in the 2000Kv range, 4-pole if you can find one and run it on 3s.

Regarding ESC's, check the motor specs... if (for example) it pulls... say 40~45-amps at peak efficiency, double that for overhead - IE: 90A Seaking.

Regarding the 1500Kv motor, it will run 6s - BUT - that's 33,300 rpm's - from what I've read, 30k is the upper limit. 5s will yield 27,750 rpm's - nice improvement over the 1800 on 4s and you won't be running the motor at it's limit, food for thought...

i think mine is a v2 or 3 who knows, i do like the new green. it came with the 1500kv motor and the 45 amp 3 s esc in white, i just looked to make sure. i been told to hang on to the 1500 kv because it will run 6s which i going to build soon. what motor upgrade can i do with this esc and what prop should i change to. trying to get ready over the winter. i will get one from hk(motor) any good suggestions

[kfxguy]

So there's now two different version 3's??

PB called this one version 3... http://www.proboatmodels.com/Product...ProdID=PRB0650

Now your calling the new greenie version 3.... did I miss something??

IMO they "should have" called the one above version 2 since that's what it is. Actually it's a rebadged IM26, but you already knew that.

Well for some reason I thought they were calling it a v3, well I went back and looked and they don't call it a v3 or anything. My bad.

[kfxguy]

Yours is the same as the two I have (1 brushed, 1 BL), technically it's version 2, but PB called it version 3.

Started out to convert the brushed to BL, but never finished the project. Boxed it up & put it in the closet till I figure out what to do with it.
Got BL version hull off eBay Aug 2014, put a 2000Kv motor in it w/Seaking 60A speedo, ran it on Sky-LiPo 3s 40/80C batts (22,200 rpm's) ran very very nice

Bumped up the motor timing a notch and all hell broke loose, kept trying to roll over, to left facing the back. So based on that experience I'm gonna say that 22k~23k rpm's is about the limit for that hull. I was only running a 2-pole motor - had it on hand.

Used the stock plastic prop on the maiden. Sent my IM31 SS prop (it's the same as the SW optional prop) out for S&B and the place f'ed it up something good, not sure what to do now.

Went to Leopard's website, couldn't find any 36mm 4-pole motors in the 2000Kv range. HK has a bunch of motors with gray cans, but 11.1 volts is the limit on them, 3s off the charger = 12.6 volts. So doubt if they'll last very long, on 3s anyways.

So to answer your motor question... I'd look for a motor in the 2000Kv range, 4-pole if you can find one and run it on 3s.

Regarding ESC's, check the motor specs... if (for example) it pulls... say 40~45-amps at peak efficiency, double that for overhead - IE: 90A Seaking.

Regarding the 1500Kv motor, it will run 6s - BUT - that's 33,300 rpm's - from what I've read, 30k is the upper limit. 5s will yield 27,750 rpm's - nice improvement over the 1800 on 4s and you won't be running the motor at it's limit, food for thought...

I haven't had an issue with any of them rolling. I had a 1512 castle in my v3 and it didn't roll. I've even used up to 52mm carbon props. I'm running a octura m645 on mine right now along with sometimes a 40mm 1.4 pitch cnc prop. This motor I have now is probably close to the 1512. Now my son's v3 acted a little funny on 4s with a big prop so he added some lead stick on weights to it on the right side rear and it fixed it. No idea why the right side, but it did straighten it out. Soon as I can get back to a pond I'll try it on 4s.

[okieman98]

ok after looking at hk like u said going to have to replace them both. but just a thought if i could but this bl setup in a new hull maybe a different size to make it haul butt. so not just wast the guts, even if i had to sell it don't even know what to ask for them, ran the boat 4 times,

[RCBoaterGuy]

About props....
Thanks for your help, it just looked so wrong compared with all the other props I have, specially the CNC props. It's Octura x642 for my IM31.

You mentioned a 40mm CNC prop... I have x438, x440, x442, x443 CNC props... any of those a good choice for this boat??

Mine was also rolling to the left (facing the back), that's why your puttin weights on the right. Reason?? The motor is rotating counterclockwise. Didn't have any probs with motor timing set to 7.5deg - the rolling issue started when I bumped the timing up to 11.25deg. Seaking 90A speedo, version 2.

I took my HW PB with me to the lake, timing change done at dockside. And it was the only change made. So obviously that's what caused the rolling issue. Sheer screw broke right after that, ended my day, didn't have spares, do now.

Check post #11 - I posted a free ' n' easy upgrade for the prop shaft & bushing - with a pic.

The shaft spins so much more smoother after that mod. Try it, you'll like it, trust me.

I haven't had an issue with any of them rolling. I had a 1512 castle in my v3 and it didn't roll. I've even used up to 52mm carbon props. I'm running a octura m645 on mine right now along with sometimes a 40mm 1.4 pitch cnc prop. This motor I have now is probably close to the 1512. Now my son's v3 acted a little funny on 4s with a big prop so he added some lead stick on weights to it on the right side rear and it fixed it. No idea why the right side, but it did straighten it out. Soon as I can get back to a pond I'll try it on 4s.

[kfxguy]

There's nothing wrong with that prop. I don't do mine like that but I had one done by ose that looked just like that and it performed pretty well.

Yes weight was added to the right because it was picking the right side up and pulling one way.

[RCBoaterGuy]

How did you like your SW26 with the CNC x440??

I'm sure the CC motors your using have plenty of torque, would certainly explain why the right side is picking up.

I deliberately went a milder motor in the hope's of striking a balance between speed & handling, got lucky I guess.

Saw your posts & pix of the new green one in another thread (can't find it now) you were gettin 29.7mph in basically stock trim. Maybe slow by your standards?? But I'd be happy with 30mph, if I could get it there, specially having seen the results of a simple timing change.

I'm gettin one of those TP motors from Doug for my IM31. That boat was designed to go fast, so that's where I'll invest my dime & time for a speed demon. Accept the SW26 for what it is, single batt fun boat.

There's nothing wrong with that prop. I don't do mine like that but I had one done by ose that looked just like that and it performed pretty well.

Yes weight was added to the right because it was picking the right side up and pulling one way.

[kfxguy]

Thanks for your help, it just looked so wrong compared with all the other props I have, specially the CNC props. It's Octura x642 for my IM31.

So how did you like your SW26 with the CNC x440??

I'm sure the CC motors your using have plenty of torque, would certainly explain why the right side is picking up.

I deliberately went a milder motor in the hope's of striking a balance between speed & handling, got lucky I guess.

Saw your posts & pix of the new green one in another thread (can't find it now) you were gettin 29.7mph in basically stock trim. Maybe slow by your standards?? But I'd be happy with 30mph, if I could get it there, specially having seen the results of a simple timing change.

I'm gettin one of those TP motors from Doug for my IM31. That boat was designed to go fast, so that's where I'll invest my dime & time for a speed demon. Accept the SW26 for what it is, single batt fun boat.

I never tried the 440 cnc prop on my original shockwave or the new one. On the original I ran only carbon props. It liked a 48mm if i remember correctly. I ran a castle 1512 in it, which was downright unruly and uncontrollable on 4s. Did pretty decent on 3s.

The new boat I've run a cnc 443 and an m645 with the castle 1415. I like the 1415 much better, the boat is drivable and pretty fast on 3s. It does not roll or prop walk. It actually drives like it did stock. I did add some two part foam to the front because it had a little sheet of Styrofoam for floatation. ..which I doubt will float it should it fill with water. This new hull is stiffer. ..noticeably...and a little heavier. I did sharpen the rudder and the cnc prop for the next run. Should easily pass 40 on 3s and 50 on 4s....if it can handle it. I'll get some video of it.

In stock trim it do do right at 30 but the shaft was binding and then seized. I think it may have gone a little faster had that not happened. I still have the motor and esc that came in it....haven't decided what I'm doing with it just yet. Only has one run on them before i put the other stuff in.

[okieman98]

thanks everyone yall have informed me on alot of info, i just may never be happy with this boat, because me need for speed and racing my son. so don't know it i want to spend any more money on it, if i sell it have know idea what it is worth, i like cats very much and want a hydro worst case i will turn it into a rescue boat. got to think on this some

[kfxguy]

thanks everyone yall have informed me on alot of info, i just may never be happy with this boat, because me need for speed and racing my son. so don't know it i want to spend any more money on it, if i sell it have know idea what it is worth, i like cats very much and want a hydro worst case i will turn it into a rescue boat. got to think on this some

What size cat are you wanting? What's your speed goal?

[okieman98]

30 inch are so is the size i like, been looking at the small bolt and the Genesis Offshore, and a few drag hulls. 50 mph are so also the new sea fire

[kfxguy]

30 inch are so is the size i like, been looking at the small bolt and the Genesis Offshore, and a few drag hulls. 50 mph are so also the new sea fire

50mph? Cake. I did that with my shockwave 26 today.



If you want a car around 30" then here's some choices:
Mean machine (29.5")
Rivercat/apparition (32")
Cheetah (34")
Aeromarine sprint cat 40 (36")
Daytona/genesis (37")

These are the common ones I know about. I'm sure there are more.

[RCBoaterGuy]

Kintec's got some m642 CNC props, bit smaller than your runnin - worth a try??

Also have CNC x444 & x445 - you seem to like the bigger props, think the 445 is also worth a try??

Less than $50 for both... Gettin ready to do an order, so ship $$ not an issue.

...In stock trim it do do right at 30 but the shaft was binding and then seized....
Try that prop shaft polishing mod I showed in post #11, I could really feel the diff just assembling by hand before lube - I use the Grim Racer grease.

Gettin a TP motor from Doug for my IM31 - decided to try the PB-1800 in my SW26 with Turnigy 120A marine ESC - just finished addin CC 5.5's for the esc<->motor & EC5 split tops for the batt.

Waiten for mixing cups so I can finish filling the front with foam, then final assy.

I never tried the 440 cnc prop on my original shockwave or the new one. On the original I ran only carbon props. It liked a 48mm if i remember correctly. I ran a castle 1512 in it, which was downright unruly and uncontrollable on 4s. Did pretty decent on 3s.

The new boat I've run a cnc 443 and an m645 with the castle 1415. I like the 1415 much better, the boat is drivable and pretty fast on 3s. It does not roll or prop walk. It actually drives like it did stock. I did add some two part foam to the front because it had a little sheet of Styrofoam for floatation. ..which I doubt will float it should it fill with water. This new hull is stiffer. ..noticeably...and a little heavier. I did sharpen the rudder and the cnc prop for the next run. Should easily pass 40 on 3s and 50 on 4s....if it can handle it. I'll get some video of it.

In stock trim it do do right at 30 but the shaft was binding and then seized. I think it may have gone a little faster had that not happened. I still have the motor and esc that came in it....haven't decided what I'm doing with it just yet. Only has one run on them before i put the other stuff in.

[okieman98]

this is how mine is set up most like a lot of yalls 101_2280.jpg

[okieman98]

guys i still new at this so i ask some dumb questions but u have a new 22kv motor if i change it out and run the same esc on 3s will i gain anything are burn something up

[kfxguy]

guys i still new at this so i ask some dumb questions but u have a new 22kv motor if i change it out and run the same esc on 3s will i gain anything are burn something up

Probably smoke the esc

[RCBoaterGuy]

Stock ESC's are barely adequate. That applies to most RTR's, not just the SW26's.

Case in point... the new green SW26's... went to Dynamite RC's website & got the manual for the motor in those boats, second line down it states "Max Current 100A". But the stock ESC is only rated at 30A

Surf through this forum and look at the mods guys do to their RTR boats... Revolt 30, Motley Crew, Lucas Oil, Impulse 31's (v1 & v2), list goes on. One of the first changes is to replace the stock ESC with a Seaking / Turnigy 120A or 180A unit. There's a reason for that...

New motor = new ESC - if you want trouble free performance.

guys i still new at this so i ask some dumb questions but u have a new 22kv motor if i change it out and run the same esc on 3s will i gain anything are burn something up

[okieman98]

Stock ESC's are barely adequate. That applies to most RTR's, not just the SW26's.

Case in point... the new green SW26's... went to Dynamite RC's website & got the manual for the motor in those boats, second line down it states "Max Current 100A". But the stock ESC is only rated at 30A

Surf through this forum and look at the mods guys do to their RTR boats... Revolt 30, Motley Crew, Lucas Oil, Impulse 31's (v1 & v2), list goes on. One of the first changes is to replace the stock ESC with a Seaking / Turnigy 120A or 180A unit. There's a reason for that...

New motor = new ESC - if you want trouble free performance.

Motor seen above pulls 27A @ peak efficiency - now look @ the ESC - no hiccups & both ran stone cold.

I ordered the 120 from china so waiting the 22kv I already have is going to be to much an 3 s right

[okieman98]

well just rereading everything trying to soak it all in, i am old and a little slow lol, but u guys are teaching me alot of stuff very quickly. i also have a motley crew which i really like. i have a very low budget and only can order once a month . so i am always trying to look a little ahead. since i am gutting the sw26 and putting new esc and motor in it. that leaves me with some good parts left to use in a new hull. what would be a good choice for these left overs, a rigger , hydro plane are buy something like the tfl small bolt and swap the stuff out . thanks to all of u

[okieman98]

Set mine quite a bit different than that... see attached - pix taken just before maiden run. Was easily doing the same speeds as kfxguy's green machine in stock trim - 28~30mph on glass water.

ESC has been replaced with Turnigy 120A I recommended in earlier post - last night installed Castle 5.5's for motor<->esc & EC5 split tops for the batt. Got some clear RTV from the maintenance guy @ my apts earlier today to fill in the open area where the motor wires / water pipes come out. It was stone cold, have to wait overnight to get to room temp. Will take before / after pix tomorrow.

Motor is going to PB-1800Kv (gray can & cooler) from IM-31 attached to hull with IM31 motor mount & connected with Octura 5mm->.150" short coupler.

Prop was stock plastic - now optional stainless S&B'ed. Going to experiment with other size's on third run. Second run will be test new setup.

Prop shaft + bushing polished per instructions above.

Water lines are Prather... http://www.funrcboats.com/ProductInf...tid=LARGEWATER

Servo = Traxxas 2075 high speed, high torque, ball bearing. Hold down strap = home made from K&S stainless stock. Rudder pushrod was IM31 cut down - now home made, HOR racing 120mm dual threaded 2mm rod with blue DuBro ends.

Receiver = Tactic TR-624 water proofed with this stuff... http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Liquid_Tape - see attached pix - balloons are bad, attract condensation, condensation is bad.

External antenna's create drag, drag slows down your boat. Antenna hole plugged with epoxy.

Hull - mixing cups arrived today, now can finish filling the front with foam to make it stiffer - will take updated pix when complete.

Summary, a boat that goes fast & handles good is the product of attention to the details, not the one with the biggest, baddest most powerful motor. Doesn't matter if it's a plastic RTR or a Revolt 30 / IM31 / Lucus Oil / UL-1, etc etc.

Hope that helps...

did u open up the receiver to treat it. just trying to understand what i see in the photos

[RCBoaterGuy]

Yes - the 624's have 4 tabs, 2 on each side - see attached - I drew a line to the top 2. Use small jewelers screwdriver - start at one corner & work my way around. Reason for the 6-chan rx's is cuz they have short external antenna, lot cheaper too - get'em for as little as $10 shipped. -- 324's have internal antenna only, I've had too many issues with them on water, work great on land though.

Clean the circuit board with denatured alcohol to remove any solder flux residue that might be on it from touch-up work done at the factory. Then clean with Ajax dish soap & hot water, blow dry.

Harness was made with wires from servo's / ESC's that went bad. Cover the 2 outside pins & every other in the middle, wrap a layer of electric tape around them to keep the coating off. Hook a paperclip through the top to hang it up.

Do three layers... first is lite, let cure for 4~6hrs. 2nd coat little thicker, cure overnight. 3rd coat is thickest, then cure for a couple days.

After re-assembling, put Testors Window Maker glue on the tabs to keep water out. Cover the top 4 sets of pins with a layer of electric tape, glue it down. Look @ 2nd pic in post #25, double click it'll go full screen, take a look @ the Rx, you can see the ports that have been covered.

First one I did is in the Tower Hobbies boat referenced in post #11. Like I said in the post, boat rolled over, took on a lot of water. Drained it out, put the boat back in the water & kept on goin.

2nd is in the SW26; it too got wet on the maiden run, again no issues - motor cooler was leaking a bit that's how the water got in.

did u open up the receiver to treat it. just trying to understand what i see in the photos

[RCBoaterGuy]

I'm 60... is that old

Get one check a month, VA pension. So like you I only so much $$ to go round.

Recommendation... put your SW26 left overs in your parts box for now and concentrate on fixing up your MC first... It too will benefit from an ESC upgrade to one of those Turnigy 120A units.
And these driveline parts... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...se-cable-mcrew -- http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=OSE-80990 -- http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ct-ocfhe5mm15S

If you don't have a metal prop, then you should consider getting one. Don't know enough about that boat to make recommendations. Here's the section for the MC's... https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...shless-Q-amp-A -- I'm sure you'll find plenty of info on prop size's & the all important strut setup recommendations.

Regards,

well just rereading everything trying to soak it all in, i am old and a little slow lol, but u guys are teaching me alot of stuff very quickly. i also have a motley crew which i really like. i have a very low budget and only can order once a month . so i am always trying to look a little ahead. since i am gutting the sw26 and putting new esc and motor in it. that leaves me with some good parts left to use in a new hull. what would be a good choice for these left overs, a rigger , hydro plane are buy something like the tfl small bolt and swap the stuff out . thanks to all of u

[okieman98]

understand now thanks, i will give it a try

[okieman98]

I'm 60... is that old

Get one check a month, VA pension. So like you I only so much $$ to go round.

Recommendation... put your SW26 left overs in your parts box for now and concentrate on fixing up your MC first... It too will benefit from an ESC upgrade to one of
those Turnigy 120A units.
And these driveline parts... http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...se-cable-mcrew -- http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=OSE-80990 -- http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ct-ocfhe5mm15S

If you don't have a metal prop, then you should consider getting one. Don't know enough about that boat to make recommendations. Here's the section for the MC's... https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...shless-Q-amp-A -- I'm sure you'll find plenty of info on prop size's & the all important strut setup recommendations.

Regards,

those are on the order list for next month thanks