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Thread: ML Boatworks 1/8th Scale 171 Extreme Build Miss Elam

  1. #31
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    Cool looking boat! Where in MI are you located?

  2. #32
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    Well didn't get much done on the boat last night. Had to work late and basically passed out after dinner...LOL I did manage to get an order in to with Harry over at Speedmaster. Picked up the 1/4" cable/shaft cut down to 3/16, drive dogs, bushings, prop nuts etc. Picked up the dual pick rudder with an 1 5/8 ext., an extended strut so I can cut the back of the strut to lenght for the proper fit to meet NAMBA rules.

    I'm kind of confused why the rule is different between NAMBA and IMPBA. NAMBA says "The propeller drive dog may extend one drive dog length beyond the transom". (basically about 1/4") out from the transom, where IMPBA says "The drive dog must not extend beyond the transom". Checked out MMEU (Mid-Michigan Electrics Unlimited) and they go by NAMBA rules. Thats where I am wanting to run so that will work out.

    Still looking and tryin to make up my mind on a good 1/8 scale turn fin. I have seen the 1/8 scale from Accu-Tech and also one that Speedmaster puts out. Mike L. also put me in touch with Dick over at Virgina Craftsman, but with the wait, this boat may never see the water this summer. Anyone have any experience with either the Accu-Tech or Speedmaster turn fin?

    Well should have some more done tonight....off the rest of the week for the holiday...:)

    Happy New Year All!

    Mike S.

  3. #33
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    Hey Todd,....

    I am over in the Lansing area. You?

  4. #34
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    IMPBA allows you to have an extended strut if the original boat has that strut. In NAMBA, it is depending on the Contest Director. My Peters & May has the extended strut. Will have a new 1/8 scale soon. I'm in Birmingham, but I am a member of MMEU.
    image (1).jpg

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speed810 View Post
    Still looking and tryin to make up my mind on a good 1/8 scale turn fin. I have seen the 1/8 scale from Accu-Tech and also one that Speedmaster puts out. Mike L. also put me in touch with Dick over at Virgina Craftsman, but with the wait, this boat may never see the water this summer. Anyone have any experience with either the Accu-Tech or Speedmaster turn fin?
    I've run most of them out there, the turn fins from Mr. Tyndall are the best. What did Dick give you for a wait time?
    Futaba Team Driver
    - IMPBA Hydro Technical Director -

  6. #36
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    Don is really knowledgeable regarding these things. Might want to take notes.

  7. #37
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    Todd --- I'm thinkin your right....LOL When is their next meet at MMEU Todd? Would like to meet some of the folks and see about joining.

    Don --- Haven't heard back from Dick yet, so not sure of the time span we're talking about. But Mike L. kind of filled me in on Dick's present situation and all. It didn't sound real promising though. I would love to wait, but then it will kind of halt the build with out the bracket template for drilling the heel and drilling and tapping the back plate. But we'll see what Dick says first and play it by ear.

    Talking with a fella in the RCG forum, he said he used to use the Virgina Craftsman all the time and is now using the Accu-Tech 1/8 scale fin and having very good success with it. The adjustments on it allow for a wide varity of +-angle and up/down for +-drift.

    Well we see what happens from here.

    Mike S
    Last edited by Speed810; 12-31-2014 at 09:31 AM.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speed810 View Post
    Todd --- I'm thinkin your right....LOL When is their next meet at MMEU Todd? Would like to meet some of the folks and see about joining.
    Mike, send me an email. h2o-racing@comcast.net
    I'll put you on our email list. We haven't scheduled our next meeting but it will be in February. Likely out at the Elks lodge where we host the Michigan Cup. Primary objective will be the 2015 schedule and show n' tell.

    We don't run 1/8 scale regularly at our club races. There hasn't been enough of them around to race. I think you're build makes 4 of them locally that I'm aware of. Our club pond gets small in a hurry with 3 of these. That's not to say we wouldn't run them if the numbers are there. Scale is a little bit different animal in my experience. A certain amount of mutual respect that keeps them from ever getting up against each other. If we run them on the Shelby pond that respect will be required.

    We do race them at the Michigan Cup though. Lots of water out there. I run a T Plus on 10s with a motor that is wrong. I need to go to a 1527/1.5y myself. It's the perfect motor really.
    Noisy person

  9. #39
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    Randy Rapedius will make a Titanium turn fin for you out of Canada but, it's going to be $$$. Very thin and very rigid, he does some nice work.

    He is on facebook with the NLMBC.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  10. #40
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    Don't forget about Northern Lights as well Terry. Yes, Terry runs on 10s, I will be running on 8s, but all very competitive. Our local pond is a little small, but it will have to come down to how we want to work it out. Terry, they are using the Messina Gravel Pit in Shelby. Have we looked over there?

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by sport 40 II View Post
    Don't forget about Northern Lights as well Terry.
    I think that's the race they are calling the Can Am now. Not sure if they run FE scale but they do have the room for it. They might not have the time for it though.

    I've not seen Messina.
    Noisy person

  12. #42
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    Default Wing Assembly test fitted and Front Fairing Blocks

    Well received my Wing parts from Phil Thomas and just had to trial fit them and get an idea of how it would look. I'm liken it!!....

    Also cut the front hull fairing blocks and got them fitted. Cut some 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth to wrap them in. But before I go any further, now I wonder if I goofed up on the blocks.

    I followed the outline of the laser cut ply to get the shape correct and I'm really wondering if the block should have met the bottom of the hull the same as the top shape line did.....but it showed it coming down and butting up against the front bulkhead...... (See picture with red arrow)

    Don maybe you could shed some light on that....I did take a look at one of your photo's and it was hard to see, but it appeared that yours are the same way.

    Any input all?


    Will start adding more stringer supports tomorrow and get it ready for bottom sheeting.

    Mike S.
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  13. #43
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    Give me a call at 415-533-6782. I'll try to help as much as I can with setup

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speed810 View Post
    Don maybe you could shed some light on that....I did take a look at one of your photo's and it was hard to see, but it appeared that yours are the same way.
    Light has been shed to your e-mail inbox, no worries you didn't goof up. I got ya covered since I've built the exact kit you're working on.
    Futaba Team Driver
    - IMPBA Hydro Technical Director -

  15. #45
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    Thanks Don!! ..............You the man!!!

    Mike

  16. #46
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    Thanks Todd.... I did email Randy on the turn fin.. And he said he is only making them for the smaller scale boats...

    Appreciate any help on the setup for motor, batteries etc. Trying to keep an eye on weight placement so I'm coming out somewhere around 2" behind the heel on the CG. That's one reason I have not added any other support bulk heads up front until I know approx. where I want the batteries.

    I'll be in touch!

    Mike

  17. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speed810 View Post
    Thanks Todd.... I did email Randy on the turn fin.. And he said he is only making them for the smaller scale boats...

    Appreciate any help on the setup for motor, batteries etc. Trying to keep an eye on weight placement so I'm coming out somewhere around 2" behind the heel on the CG. That's one reason I have not added any other support bulk heads up front until I know approx. where I want the batteries.

    I'll be in touch!

    Mike
    You want that CG 1" or less from sponson heal. More light shed to your inbox.
    Futaba Team Driver
    - IMPBA Hydro Technical Director -

  18. #48
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    Thanks Don....Got it. Great idea!

  19. #49
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    Default More Sponson work

    Worked quite a bit today on the sponsons to get ready for the bottom sheeting. Didn't seem like I got that much done for the time spent, but the right sponson is about done. Added the rear sponson fairing block and all the tapered stock for gluing surfaces. Just need to add some more 3/16sq. stock tapered on upper two strakes and finish some final sanding.

    Sure need to finalize a turn fin for this boat so I can get the bracket mounted. It looks like I'll be going with the Acuu-Tech 1/8 scale on this one.
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  20. #50
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    Default Some more Sponson work

    Just wanted to make sure and add something else to the build and show that I am working on it...LOL

    Actually been doing a lot of reading and research for parts and setup settings for this boat.

    So I have started the sheeting process after a lot of discussion and help from fellow builders.....Thanks for everything Don and Paul!! So far I have figured out the process as far as getting the sheet outline traced, cut and installed. I'm sure the left sponson will go little quicker, but am pleased with the way they are turning out.

    While some of these sheets were curing I sandwiched the front canard in a dense balsa and will begin shaping the airfoil. Plan on permanently attaching the rear canard wings by installing aluminum plate on the hinge line that will be bent to an up angle for down force on the nose of the boat. Those aluminum plates will be epoxied in place into each half of the canard wing and sanded to shape then covered in either glass cloth or a carbon fiber veil.

    Received the hardware from Speedmaster last week and it is some beautiful stuff.
    Also finally got ahold of Dick at Virginia Craftsman on the turn fin and Dick is going to get me a template or a bracket made up sometime in the next week or so, and that way I can continue completion of the right sposnon and heel section, then Dick will send out the turn fin when its completed. Also talked to Steve at OSE, and he is checking to see when he'll have the NEU 1527 back in stock and the ETTI 220A ESC. Lets hope its not to long....LOL Been working with Dave over at HRC on a motor mount for this boat and have it modified for the ESC mounting plate on top. Looks like we have something that will work out very well for this boat.....

    So some issues that I'm trying to figure out, but having a heck of a time finding information on.... ::::::::
    Strut depth Still haven't found a formula or rule of thumb used to place the depth of the strut for the starting point even though really you would want it to be close to its final position....Any input??
    Stuffing Tube What are most of you using for sealing the stuffing tube at the motor? Teflon? Also are most of you installing an oiler tube to the stuffing tube? I know my UL-1 has the Teflon section in the head of the stuffing tube.
    ETTI ESC cooling Mod Someone had mentioned that they had installed a cooling mod onto the ETTI ESC. Is there any information out there on this and is this really a necessary modification?

    More to come!

    Mike
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  21. #51
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    You don't want to permanently attach the rear wings in case of a blow over. You want to use nylon screws so it can break away and not damage the hull. Also, I might have a 1527 1.5y for you.

  22. #52
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    Hey Todd.....Maybe you misunderstood the area I was talking about.....:) I getcha on the rear wing assembly...definitly going to attach with nylon screws so it has a break away feature.
    The area I was talking about was the (Canard up front) Was looking at securing the adjustable rear part of the canard with the aluminum plate. I have read that the front conard flaps on this size model really don't do much and most folks are permenantly securing them in place in the up postion for down force. What's your take on it?
    Looking at Don Ferrette's 171 kit, I guess he started out to make the front conard adjustable, but then switched it out to a permanent system.

    Might be interested in your 1527 1.5Y....:) Can you PM me and tell me more about it...time on the motor, condition, etc. (Price)...LOL

    Thanks

    Mike

  23. #53
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    I prefer to have them adjustable so I can make slight changes during a race. I use just my tape to hold them in place. Works really well. The 1527 1.5y is new in box. No run time and never had bullets soldered. I have only had it for about two weeks. Going a different direction.

  24. #54
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    That might work too Todd....Have to give it some more thought. The suggestion just came down from other folks that have built this type of boat with the front canard system...Your the first that has indiacted that you adjust it at times for different conditions. So do you find that it really can make some ride differences with your boat?

    On the 1527...is that an 8mm shaft and what do you want for it? PM me if you like.

    Mike

  25. #55
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    BTW Todd...What is your new direction...:) ?????? LOL

  26. #56
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    I am running a 1527 1y 1250kv in a Winston Eagle Lobster on 8s

  27. #57
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    That will be a mover....

    Didin't you say you were going to look at a an 1/8 scale build for this year?

  28. #58
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    Yes. I already own a 1/8 scale Peters & May. Working on a Lobster

  29. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speed810 View Post
    ETTI ESC cooling Mod Someone had mentioned that they had installed a cooling mod onto the ETTI ESC. Is there any information out there on this and is this really a necessary modification?
    You'll see when you get the control (unless the design has changed)that they left us precious little room for tubing between the boards and the nipples. Don actually brought this to my attention before I purchased mine.
    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=etti-E065

    We removed the nipples, drilled through the plates and pressed in 5/32" (IIRC) brass tubes long enough to clear the boards. I used some Thermocoat compound during assembly. The control doesn't know it's in the boat.
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  30. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by sport 40 II View Post
    I already own a 1/8 scale Peters & May.
    Oh you own it. You may never see it again but you own it. After all that effort to scrap that canopy from the depths of Shadow lake too.

    Hey, what if we convinced someone that lives out there to go pick it up from them? Just a thought.
    Noisy person

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