ML Boatworks 1/8th Scale 171 Extreme Build Miss Elam

[Speed810]

Well I had so much fun with my smaller UL-1 this past summer that I just had to look into a bigger boat that I could build into a fast electric for racing this next summer. Talked with Mike from ML Boatworks quite a bit and decided to go with the 1/8 scale 171 Extreme kit the Miss Elam boat.

Now I have been an airplane builder for quite some time....since I was 15 when my dad and I would spend hours in the basement working on models. No servos then...just escapements....LOL. But this is my first try at building boats, especially an Unlimited Hydroplane. I will also be posting this build in another forum and I'll try my best to keep up with both of them.

In any case I will be looking for a lot of ideas and information from anyone that would like to chime in. OH....and I take the negative criticism too....as long as your nice about it....LOL I don't think of there ever being a dumb question, except for those we don't ask. So if some question sounds a little on the dumb side, bear with me. Remember I’m new to boats and want to learn more.

What I'm planning for power with this boat after talking with Mike at ML Boats is the NUE 1527 1Y on 8S. 10S if they will fit. But I'm thinking for a racing profile that 8S is going to be more than enough. Not sure on the ESC as yet, but thinking it’s going to have to be at least a 240amp. Was going to get more ideas from you folks on that. Also the running hardware from Accu-Tech seems to be the way most folks are going. Again any other ideas or suggestions out there are welcome. Ordered the cowl from RC Boats and the Wing set from Phil Thomas last week....so expecting them soon.

I have been reading up on the rules for these boats, but as we all know sometimes there are ones we might have missed. So if you know of ones that seem to keep coming back and biting guys please let me know. I think the biggest one that I have seen is that the drive dog cannot extend past the transom, so that means a thru hull drive shaft support. Appreciate your ideas of the size drive cable and stuffing tube to be used. Was thinking of the 1/4" reduced to 3/16.

Well I got started on this over this past weekend and pretty much have the center section done. Nice thing about this kit is that it builds pretty much in 3 separate sections. If you have a flat surface to work from, that’s about all you'll need to build a nice straight and square boat frame with this kit. Everything is perfectly laser cut, best I've ever seen. And everything fits perfect. The next thing to move onto will be the sponsons which should go fairly quick. When I ordered the kit I also ordered all the 1/4X1/4 and 3/16X3/16 square stock, plus all the sheeting for the boat from Mike.

I've attached some build photos from this past weekend. Pretty much started off by tacking everything together with thin CA and Med CA. The hull bottom sheet is all one piece. I thinned some 30 min epoxy and applied it to all the bulkheads and hull stringers and then positioned the hull bottom sheeting. Weight down and wait. At the same time I went over all the other joints with the thinned epoxy mix for a better bond with formers and stringers. I'll be coating them again later when I get ready to coat the inside of the boat.
Any suggestions are appreciated on what your using for sealing your boats....West System...etc.

Thanks All! Can't wait to get it on the water this spring. It’s all Ice right now...LOL

Mike S.

[Speed810]

More Pictues with bottom sheeting installed

[don ferrette]

You'll enjoy that hull, I've been running that same boat with great success. For motor choices a 1527 1Y will be best on 8S, for 10S go with a 1527 1.5Y (this combo provides excellent results). The ETTI 220 OPTI PRO ESC has been working great for the scales, a bit of a pain to program but once past that a rock solid ESC (USE THE CAP BANK THAT COMES WITH IT!!!). You want the 8mm shaft option in either motor you choose and use the 1/4" step to 3/16" cable for sure.

[Doug Smock]

Different ML hull but with the 1.5Y motor on 10s, also using the ETTI 220 OPTI PRO ESC with cooling tube mod.
Playing with a 60 scale. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuk-d6chMyg
Just making some laps. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y35uoH2t2RM

Looking forward to the rest of your build.

Keep up the good work!

D.

[Fluid]

The 1527/1y is too much for an oval racer on 10s. I set sport hydro SAW records in the 80s with that motor on 8S with amp draws well under 200. You don't need 35,000-plus rpm to oval race a 1/10 hull.




.

[Speed810]

Thanks for the information Doug....Seems that is the going setup for these boats. The Squire Shop sure seems to do well on that package and very, very stable; not to speak of a real pretty boat....Nice Job!!. It would be great to see some build pictures of motor location and batteries to see how it all fit in your boat if that possible. Thanks again Doug!!
Might be more questions down the line, hope you don't mind.

Mike

[Doug Smock]

The 1527/1y is too much for an oval racer on 10s. I set sport hydro SAW records in the 80s with that motor on 8S with amp draws well under 200. You don't need 35,000-plus rpm to oval race a 1/10 hull.




.

You're right Jay. Don recommended 8s on the 1y.

Mike I can't take credit on the hull build and paint. I purchased the boat from Mike, had to have it when I saw it. I just rigged it.
I'd be happy to post some pics if you'd like.

[Speed810]

I understand what your saying Fluid...I just want a good stable boat in race setup with speed to compete. Now this is an 1/8 scale...not a 1/10 and guys that have talked about the 1527 1.5Y on 10S are talking about 1/8 scale if that makes any difference. In any case I would think it's going to be plenty fast.

Mike

[Speed810]

Evening Don,

Thanks very much for the information and boat choice.... Would be very interested in seeing any build pictures or links to your boat if possible. How is the race setup with 1527 1.5Y...Still a very stable boat?? The only reason I was looking at 8S was Mike indicated it may be very difficult to squeeze to 5S packs in the hull on top of maybe to much motor for that boat. But sure would like to hear your experience with that setup.

Appreciate anything you can share.

Mike

[madmikepags]

1527/1.5Y on 10s is a tried and true 1/8 scale setup. I have 2 Nat titles with this setup, and plenty of other wins.

[madmikepags]

3/16 cable is fine for pretty much any scale setup

[Speed810]

That would be great Doug....

Just like to get an idea of battery and motor placement etc. So what ever you have would be outstanding. You can email it if you like.

Mike

[Speed810]

Thanks Mad Mike....Any information on your motor, battery and hardware setup would be great...

Mike S

[RayR]

most of Don's build is here:

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=643

[don ferrette]

most of Don's build is here:

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=643

That is actually a different build. Here's a couple shots of the Elam.....

[Chilli]

most of Don's build is here:

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=643

That's my boat now....

[john finch]

I am running the 1/8th scale O boy Oberto that Don set the SAW record with. It is now a heat racer with the 1527 1.5y on 10s 1p and finishes 8 laps with 32 percent still left in the batteries. I am now converting my 1969 miss Bardahl roundnose nitro boat to electric. i am going to try 8s 2p with the 1530 neu at 1100 kv because I have 4 of the 4s packs and can play with 1p vs 2p vs weight etc. If it is not as good as the o boy oberto I have a new neu 1527 1.5y ready to install and use the 10s 1p setup. I will find out this spring which setup is best for sure. Like Don said..........the 1527 1.5 on 10s 1p is a solid performer.

John
Fast becoming an electric addict!

[Speed810]

Good Morning Don....

Thanks very much for the photo's. I also looked at the other build and actually got some good information there on the initial build.

I ordered the main SG118C Cowling, Turbine tray and the Lexan canopy so I have that on hand before sheeting starts.

Just some basic concepts that I'm working on to understand are:
One of the biggest is understanding the motor placement...doesn't seem to be much out there. Are you placing the motor on the centerline of the transom or centerline of the motor well, which then it actually is off-set slightly....Trying to figure out the pro's & con's and the why's (what does this do to the boat).....LOL
Cowling attachment and sealing from water.
Cowling intake and ideas of sealing that off from water into the hull.
Engine mock up ideas and what you used.
Was your Elam floor bottom in the motor to transom area reinforced with just the carbon fiber cloth or do you also add some ply sheet to that area for strength?
Did you use formed carbon fiber cloth for the center section leading edge, and/or sheeting or balsa block to shape the leading edge.?

Cooling water inlet / outlet systems. I see different designs in that. Just interested in what you prefer that keeps everything cool.

Anything you can lend Don would be appreciated. I know its a busy time, so no hurry.


Again thanks to everyone for your help and information.
HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL!!

Mike

[Speed810]

Thanks John....

Definitely looking like the power package to go with. Seems to be proven over and over.

Have any pictures of your 10S setup as far as motor and battery placement?

Thanks

Mike

[Scott M]

Nice job building. I'm looking forward to seeing it done

[Speed810]

Thanks Scott! I'm pretty excited on this end.

[Doug Smock]

That would be great Doug....

Just like to get an idea of battery and motor placement etc. So what ever you have would be outstanding. You can email it if you like.

Mike

Here's what I came up with Mike.
I have additional pics of the waterlines and transom hardware if you'd like. Don't want to clutter your thread too much.

[Speed810]

Those are great Doug. Don't worry about cluttering this up. Just want to see the various installs and configurations. Looks like a 10S1P setup is that right?....with another battery for RX and servo operation. Notice your using all silicone waterlines for cooling. I see some builds where they recommend using brass lines and then going to silicone lines. Not sure if it really makes that much difference. Also do you use a dual pick up rudder with separate outlets, one to the motor and one for the ESC. I see that highly recommended by some, but would rather clarify it with you guys that are running the actual 1527 motor...etc. Is all your hardware Accu-Tech 1/8 scale hardware?

Thanks again for all the great pictures and information.

Mike

[Doug Smock]

My pleasure.
Yes sir 10s 1P. The hardware is Speedmaster. As you'll see I ran aluminum tubing through the transom all the way up to the motor and ESC then went with silicone. I ran two lines because the rudder had two pickups. I am confident that this set up would be fine with a single pick up cooling the motor first if that's the direction you want to go. I've never has a problem getting adequate cooling on a FE boat with a single pick up.

Hope this helps.

Looking forward to the reminder of your build.

D.

PS Don't forget floatation. I put it in every place it would fit. Used 2"x whatever blue foam blocks.

[Speed810]

Thanks Doug....Great pictures on your setup. Did you use the Speedmaster turn fin also?

See you have a few sponges in the rear also for water seeping in thru the strut. Guess they all must do this. Did you think about putting an auto bailer in at all?
Heard they can be more of a problem at times then not having one at all....LOL

Thanks again Doug!!

Mike

[Doug Smock]

Hey Mike,

The sponge (and paper towels not in the pic lol) were just a bit of insurance for the maiden voyage. I hadn't float tested the boat. The boat stays dry.

I haven't ever used auto "sinkers". Like you, I've heard enough stories from those that have.

I'm pretty sure Mike L. made the turn fin bracket, the fin is a Virginia Craftsman.


D.

[john finch]

o boy oberto.jpgHere is the Oboy Oberto. Two 5s packs go in front of the motor. The speed controller is on top of the motor. Hope this helps.

John

[Speed810]

Well finally found sometime last night and today to continue building. Pictures are attached below....if you see some areas needing attention, feel free to let me know....

Finished up the initial framing of both sponsons and got some pre-sanding done to shape the stringers with all the formers. Still need to add some 3/16 Sq. stock to the top and bottom of the formers and add the rear heel formers before sheeting starts.

Also thanks to everyone for all your input and pictures. It sure has helped me plan ahead and look at other reinforcement areas around the nose and motor well.

[Speed810]

Left Sponson.

[Speed810]

Pre-fit both sponsons.