ML Boatworks 1/8th Scale 171 Extreme Build Miss Elam

[nichismo]

hey guys, for the klass kote , what ratio should I go with for the reducer? also, for cleaning the hull before hand, could I wipe down with a micro fiber cloth and rubbing alcohol? or should I dab the cloth in the reducer?I also have some tack cloths I havnt opened yet

[Speed810]

Hey Nick...

I just used Isoprole Alcohol to wipe down the hull and then a quick wipe with a tack cloth. I did that with every step from priming to color coats. The only one I didn't use it on was the final clear coats. I used a cleaning solution from HOK to clean down the whole hull before clearing. I would not use reduced to clean the hull especially during your color coats.

On thinning down the Klass Kote primer it all depends on the fill your trying to achieve. I would start out with what they recommend and then thin down with lacquer thinner if you want thinner coats or your sprayer is not spraying it properly. I was usually thinning it to get it spraying a thinner and better pattern.

Mike

[nichismo]

gotcha. I still got a fair amount of rough spots and imperfections so I'm counting on the first coat by hand to fill in the remaining miscues. Hopefully it still sands without any reducer and some talcum powder added as easily as it would from an airbrush.

my equipment (or lack thereof) consists of a little badger basic spray gun kit and a disposable can of compressed air.... but ive heard that PreVal can work great with KK so I figured this should be sufficient.

my epoxy on all the internal wood is drying, then I'll scuff the hull after that and I'll be finally ready!

[nichismo]

whoops double post

[Speed810]

Test run at the club pond on a X452 prop

Ran the boat last Sunday at our club races. The pond is just a tad small for 1/8 scales, but we got some good runs in. First run we determined that I must have hit something under the water....coming out of turn 2 I lost steering and she ran right up on shore. Luckily that side is all grown up with tall grass so it was a soft landing....LOL The brass rudder shear pin was sheared right off. Made some additional adjustments to he strut and put an X452 prop on. Definitely made a difference....it shot out of the hole and the top end was much faster. Now I may have to look at doing some work on getting the boat to turn better. Might try some turn fin adjustments and maybe upgrade to a better servo. I have a Hitec 5645 MG digital on there right now at 168oz of torque. Thought that would be plenty....thinking of a Savox 1256 or 1258 TG.

I have had suggestions on moving the turn fin forward on the bracket in order to tighten the boat up coming out of the turns. Anyone have any input on that? Or any other ideas that I may want to try?

Video is attached.....you can see how wide the boat is skidding coming out of the turns.

https://youtu.be/kmMStFz8vnQ

Thanks

Mike

[Agitator]

Nick, if you pull the strut, you will get primer and paint in the slot and bolt holes, then they won't leave an edge to peel later.

Mike, what is the backset length on your rudder? And you do have the steel rod covered with a carbon tube for strength?

[Speed810]

Morning Agitator....

The rudder is set back 1 3/4" from the transom to the leading edge of the rudder.
I don't have any carbon fiber tube on the steel rod. Figuered after tests I did with the size of rod and flexing it under pressure that it is quite strong. Hardly any flex at all. So not sure that is a problem...I'll check it again though.

Mike

[T.S.Davis]

Mike, going out tomorrow for more testing. Fixed the wings, swapped the motor, reprogrammed the ESC. We'll see.

[Speed810]

Sounds good Terry! What motor are you going to run?
Weren't you guys supposed to leave today??...:)

Hope she performs well!! Have fun over there.

Mike

[T.S.Davis]

Next Friday. We may not get to run scale at this point. There are only two of us now. I've asked about running the nitro and FE together. They have the same problem. A lot of the local scale guys will be in Burton, MI that same weekend. They have a sweet race up there the same weekend.

Motor is a 2217/1.5y.......at the moment. Still not sure it will be the one. It's not as hot as what I had in there. I suspect that was gobbling some massive amps. Should be able to swing a ginormous prop with this fatter motor. I have serious doubts about this ESC. Hopefully getting rid of the soft start and reducing the amperage is all she needs.

[Agitator]

Morning Agitator....

The rudder is set back 1 3/4" from the transom to the leading edge of the rudder.
I don't have any carbon fiber tube on the steel rod. Figuered after tests I did with the size of rod and flexing it under pressure that it is quite strong. Hardly any flex at all. So not sure that is a problem...I'll check it again though.

Mike

If I remember correctly, the farther back the rudder is from the transom, the wider the turns will be, at least on a hydro. I use 1 1/8 setbacks on mine. Since you are 'pushing' the rudder to turn, I would bet you have more flex than you realize, I am guessing you are using 4-40 rod? A piece of carbon rod over the steel will virtually eliminate any flex.

[nichismo]

Yeah, I really appreciate the setup you sent my way Michael, its amazing. I had no idea carbon fiber was so strong until I had that tube (not rod, could only imagine a solid rods strength) in my hands, the force needed to really bend it was very surprising. Extremely rigid, I imagine numerous people out there probably bought expensive servos for their boats when in reality, a nice carbon fiber push rod would have been sufficient for them after trying it!

but then again, what does a newbie like me know? (srs)

[Speed810]

If I remember correctly, the farther back the rudder is from the transom, the wider the turns will be, at least on a hydro. I use 1 1/8 setbacks on mine. Since you are 'pushing' the rudder to turn, I would bet you have more flex than you realize, I am guessing you are using 4-40 rod? A piece of carbon rod over the steel will virtually eliminate any flex.

Mike.....Well you might be right.. Had the boat out testing on the lake over the weekend.....
It was quite the test run actually...Second lap on the back straight the canopy caught some water and completely flipped off. Floated though...LOL
When I got the boat home was checking things over and the support brace epoxied in in the back bay for the steering rod snapped right of the side wall of the bay. So I would guess that's telling me that there must have been quite a bit of torque there on the rod bending inside the bay. Will be looking at a carbon fiber sleeve as you suggested. Now you would run that just on the interior section of the rod from the servo and end it before it exits the hull right?

Let me know

Thanks again

Mike

[Agitator]

I run mine from the boot as far to the end as possible. I get mine from Tower, part #5722-Midwest carbon tube, .188"OD X .116" ID-tack it in place with some medium set super glue, and you'll be race ready. If you are using a speedmaster rudder, you can get just the pivot block in 1 1/8" backset to bring the rudder closer to the transom-to help tighten the turn radius. If you can't find the correct size carbon tube, let me know and I'll cut you a piece and send it to you.

007.jpg

[nichismo]

Hey speed, if you are still looking for the CF tube:

https://outlawhobbyproducts.com/carbon-fiber_pushrod-tubes.html

EDIT: silly me, source already posted! sorry