Proboat Blackjack 29" V3 - new hull, 2000kv motor, 120A ESC & EC5 plugs.

[fusion_m8]

Has anyone gotten their hands on one yet??? I would love to know what is different about the hull design compared to previous model. Apparently the hull doesn't porpoise as much as before, from what I observed in the HorizonHobby YouTube video below.

In ProBoat's website picture gallery there is a sneak peek of the internal layout of the new hull design, looks like they have put in some proper battery holders on top of trays and improved the space by lowering the trays closer to the bottom of the hull so as to fit larger/taller battery packs. The battery holders can slide fore and aft on the trays to adjust the COG. However the amount of COG adjustment for the battery packs does look limited compared to before.

The new 120A ESC looks beefier with better water cooling than the previous 80A version. Though the new 120A ESC does look a little plain with no blue anodized heatsink.

The motor mount looks much sturdier.

The radio antenna has changed location and is shorter and stubbier.

I am excited to find out more about the ride pads on the new hull. Many racers believe that the ride pads on the previous hull must be blueprinted and sharpened to eliminate porpoising. I wonder if PB has done some kind of improvement to the ride pads for them to handle the extra speed of the 2000kv motor on 6s? The previous hull was already maxed out with the 1800kv/6S setup. Looking at the picture supplied on ProBoat's website, the bottom of the hull design looks slightly different. The ride pads appear flatter than before and the flexshaft tube appears to be housed inside and aerodynamic mini keel for improved airflow, perhaps that helps reduce porpoising?

Transmitter is the same Spektrum DX2E, however the receiver has been upgraded(?) from a MR200 to a SR410.

I wonder if the flexshaft has been beefed up as well? Many BJ29 owners did blowup the stock flexshaft with the 1800kv/6S setup.

According to the ProBoat website's product description, the propeller size is now 63mm(WT...??!!)x1.6p. That's gotta be a typo!!! The factory metal prop used to be a 40mmx1.6p=63mm of pitch.

http://www.proboatmodels.com/Product...rodId=PRB08011





***Moderators: If I am not supposed to hotlink external retail websites, I apologize, please remove it accordingly.***

[fusion_m8]

PRB08011_a14.jpgPRB08011_a15.jpgPRB08011_a16.jpgPRB08011_a17.jpg

[Pedro Ramos]

i just got mine today and no tupperware cover for the electronics, super short battery connectors from the esc. no programing card or info on how to program the esc.

i will water test it tomorrow.

[fusion_m8]

Excellent! Please post some pictures and videos on it on 4s and/or 6s.

I tried to get hold of one from ProBoat's website(the only place with shipping to Australia atm) and the shipping was $238!!! Think I have to wait until the ebay sellers get hold of their stock, the shipping from ebay sellers is a lot more reasonable at around $80.

[Pedro Ramos]

the boat is a beast, super stable but still no info on how to at least disable reverse, other than that on 6s is pretty fast and reasonable stable. on 4s is more tamed for the novice or young driver.

[fusion_m8]

I wonder why they put reverse mode ESC on what is obviously an intermediate-advance level RTR boat. Its like putting cupholders in a Nascar!

[tlandauer]

I wonder why they put reverse mode ESC on what is obviously an intermediate-advance level RTR boat. Its like putting cupholders in a Nascar!

That may be true, but it is still aimed at as many customers as possible, so it is a marketing decision. You will be surprised at how many walk-in customers ask if there is a reverse feature. I was at a hobby shop and that was the conversation I over heard.

[Pedro Ramos]

had this boat over a month now and the boat is a rocket for a rtr. nothing bad to report super stable on 4s for the kids and scary fast on 6s for the father! lol
great finish fiberglass hull, great hardware, only thing i did is dual water pick up, 5/32 tubing and aero marine large water outlets, motor and esc cold to the touch even on 6s!

[RCBoaterGuy]

That ESC looks virtually identical to the new Seaking version 3's... http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=312 - The Dynamite has a different water block & 2 caps instead of 1, otherwise same thing.

Suggestion: try using a HobbyWing program box to program the ESC

You'll need a servo extension cord like this one... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEDAS&P=7 - to go from the ESC to the port on the back of the PB. White / orange wire goes to the horseshoe shaped symbol on the PB and to the "S" pin on the ESC.

The list of the programmable settings is in the HobbyWing manuals can be found here... http://www.falconsekido.com/pages/download

I set the LiPo cell count to the actual number of cells being used - auto detect can be sketchy sometimes.

Use the default LVC (Low Voltage Cutoff) value of 3.2V/C -- if your paranoid about over discharging your packs set it to 3.4V/C.

Set timing to: 7.5-degree's (or less) -- the default timing value of 15-degree's is wayyyy too high!!

Hope that helps, Good luck...

i just got mine today and no tupperware cover for the electronics, super short battery connectors from the esc. no programing card or info on how to program the esc.

i will water test it tomorrow.

[RCBoaterGuy]

Checked PB's website - parts list, looks like the version 3 boats did away with the tupperware lid.

There's no mention of it in the manual either - maybe shoot Darin Jordan a PM for a clarification.

Dam, am I glad I got a MG29 while I could.

i just got mine today and no tupperware cover for the electronics, super short battery connectors from the esc. no programing card or info on how to program the esc.

i will water test it tomorrow.

[Mr_3_0_5]

Nope there's no Tupperware lid

[Buddyroe]

[ray schrauwen]

Thanks for the pic. Finally I can see the inside.

I did mention once that the esc wa nearly a dead ringer for a HW120. The PB has a nicer cooling block it seems.

[Buddyroe]

[BHChieftain]

I really think the tupperware lid wasn't all that effective-- you need to tape the canopy down anyway, and that seals up things just fine.

Chief

[Mr_3_0_5]

Anyone have a programming box and can tell me what the factory setting of the esc are ?
It would be greatly appreciated

[RCBoaterGuy]

Both myself & Ray Schrauwen agree that ESC seen in post #14 is dead ringer for the version-3 Seakings. And I completely agree with Ray that Dynamite copy has much nicer water block.

Because the Dynamite ESC is dead ringer for the Seaking, in post #9 I suggested trying the HobbyWing program box (with instructions) - has anybody tried that?? If no, why not??

Repeatedly asking the same question is not going to produce an answer. Only trial & error will produce an answer. It's either going to work or it's not going to work, what it will not do is fry the ESC.

If you put an Octura x642 prop on your boat & it does not produce the desired results, then you try a different prop - right?? Same exact concept here.

Anyone have a programming box and can tell me what the factory setting of the esc are ?
It would be greatly appreciated

[ray schrauwen]

Whoever makes the ESC did their homework or got some good advice. I'm tempted to sell some stuff and maybe get one of these. If I find some work, that would do it too.

[Pedro Ramos]

well, I'm happy to informed that the hobbywing program card works like a dream, just got rid of reverse and make sure set timing on 7.5 like rcboaterguy suggested.

Thank u all for the research, still no complaints for this boat, I doest not mind the use of the tape anymore, I like electronics so much that i run the seaking 120a and the bl 29 v3 motor on my revolt 30 and it runs solid, I'm not a racer more like an aqua basher LOL

Also got a new old stock sv27r and change the esc for the one that came with the revolt 30 and it has plenty of power, no need for 6s in my opinion

once again thank you all for the research!!!

[ray schrauwen]

Cool Pedro. It's nicer than a HW imo since it has the extra cap on board. Almost looks like a 180

[RCBoaterGuy]

RIGHT FRIGGEN ON DUDE!! - That's awesome that it worked, I figured it would.

It used to be that companies made there own electronics, but it's gotten to the point where it's easier for them to buy the HW's because they're solid performer's in the mid-range price wise.

AQ is the only with there own ESC's (that I know of), but for how much longer?? I don't like them because of the complete lack of programability.

Try using the 60-amp ESC from Revolt, MC, UL-1 et all on 3S. That stutter bump crap will kick in within a few minutes.

Check out this program box... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCACX&P=7 - looks just like my HW with a different face plate.

Here's another example... http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ming_Card.html - click on the files tab & look at face plate #2 - it's for boats.

well, I'm happy to informed that the hobbywing program card works like a dream, just got rid of reverse and make sure set timing on 7.5 like rcboaterguy suggested.

Thank u all for the research, still no complaints for this boat, I doest not mind the use of the tape anymore, I like electronics so much that i run the seaking 120a and the bl 29 v3 motor on my revolt 30 and it runs solid, I'm not a racer more like an aqua basher LOL

Also got a new old stock sv27r and change the esc for the one that came with the revolt 30 and it has plenty of power, no need for 6s in my opinion

once again thank you all for the research!!!

[gregster82]

I myself just bought this boat and havent had time to order a program card and used the hobbywing manual to program by the transmitter. Took all of 30 seconds and good thing I did because the boat runs way to hot on 6s. I took the 1800kv motor out of my old blackjack and slapped on the v3 and upgraded the cooling lines and I am surprised to say I see same amout of torque and speed but way cooler temperatures. 6s with stock electronics " motor and esc 130" " capacitors 150" batteries 130" . I have my timing set to low due to the old motor getting to hot but will play with it soon. My observation of this is they did good with hull but should of kept old electronics. Boat is very stable and when this boat sit's next to the old bj it makes it look cheap.
I am new to boats. I have been into r/c trucks but got burnt out on it over the last 4 years. I drove a boat and LOVE IT. This is also my first time getting onto a forum and reading about stuff. " Im not a kid" I have general knowledge of all electronics and stuff. My first boat was Old bj and it flipped to much so I got the new one. Again please remember I'm new at all this! Can anyone recommend me a good esc and motor combination that would smoke this setup with speed, torque and temps. I'm reading that once you get into the 2000kv range that's not good. But any info on setups and stuff I would GREATLY APPRECIATE!

[RCBoaterGuy]

First off, welcome to this forum. There is a ton of info here, can't tell you how many hours I've spent reading through the various sections & threads in them. Like you, I have working with R/C trucks for over 4-years, but true performance boats are a whole new ball game.

I would like to offer a suggestion for the cooling lines... the one from the transom should go to the ESC first, then the horse shoe hose, then out of the ESC to the motor, out of motor goes to the side of the boat. I modified your pic best I could & attached it to this post, it's rough but I think you'll get the idea.

Can anyone recommend me a good esc and motor combination... Personally I don't see anything wrong with the ESC you have now. Next step would either be the Seaking 180 or one of the more expensive marine ESC's like Etti, Hydra Ice and so on.

As far as motors go... got MG29v2 recently, asked BHChieftan for one of his setup guides for that boat. In addition to the guide he offered very good advice.

Here's his reply... "The Miss Geico is actually my favorite RTR cat out there. I prepped one for my son who races it in p-limited offshore-- he beats folks running the stock blackjack." note: MG29 comes with 1500Kv motor - blackjack has 1800Kv motor.

Chief went on to say... "I tuned an x642 prop and blueprinted the sponsons and on 4S the boat is nearly 50mph on the 1500kv motor!"

Think you'd be happy with a great handling boat doin 50mph?? Here's what 46mph looks like... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbyiTND5IkA - not sayin that your a dumb kid, just providing some food for thought.

Yeah I know, everybody & his brother (except for me, Chief & a few others) are all hung up the 6S thing. Well guess what?? It's a bunch of Traxxas BULLS**T!!

If you want a fast boat work on the setup like Chief said. That guy knows FAR MORE about R/C boats than I do. I was (note: past tense) going to put the 1800Kv motor from my IM31 into MG29, not now. 1500Kv on 4S with a Octura x642 S&B'ed prop + Chiefs strut mod from the setup guide. I'll try the blueprinting thing when my skill sets have improved.

Welcome to the wonderful world of R/C boating, it's addicting as all hell. But they are so completely different then R/C anything else, so many variable's (just in the prop alone), now add in all the other stuff.

Here's some good reading... http://www.fastelectricboats.co.uk/fe_manual.php - this one is prop specific... http://rcraceboats.webnode.gr/news/gas-prop-essentials/ - I know it says gas props, but the concepts apply to all of them.

I myself just bought this boat and haven't had time to order a program card and used the hobbywing manual to program by the transmitter. Took all of 30 seconds and good thing I did because the boat runs way to hot on 6s. I took the 1800kv motor out of my old blackjack and slapped on the v3 and upgraded the cooling lines and I am surprised to say I see same amout of torque and speed but way cooler temperatures. 6s with stock electronics " motor and esc 130" " capacitors 150" batteries 130" . I have my timing set to low due to the old motor getting to hot but will play with it soon. My observation of this is they did good with hull but should of kept old electronics. Boat is very stable and when this boat sit's next to the old bj it makes it look cheap.

I am new to boats. I have been into r/c trucks but got burnt out on it over the last 4 years. I drove a boat and LOVE IT. This is also my first time getting onto a forum and reading about stuff. " Im not a kid" I have general knowledge of all electronics and stuff. My first boat was Old bj and it flipped to much so I got the new one. Again please remember I'm new at all this! Can anyone recommend me a good esc and motor combination that would smoke this setup with speed, torque and temps. I'm reading that once you get into the 2000kv range that's not good. But any info on setups and stuff I would GREATLY APPRECIATE!

[gregster82]

Wow!! Okay ..Okay...
So I actually did have the lines hooked up the way that you are saying. I noticed on the new BJ V3 that it's motor to esc. I looked at the old BJ and noticed it was Esc to motor. I did the old BJ way first " with 1800 motor" and when everythang ran cool I went back to the V3 style and tried again. Everything was great.
YES I have spoken with Chief. It's so funny because I found out he is in the same area as me. I have spoken with him and LOVED his advise YES you are correct he does know alot. I lost his emails and dont know how but I did have all that info and now it's gone.
Yea Im stuck on 6s. I have been reading that alot of people do get 50+ mph with right setup on 4s....HOW THE HECK!!!!! I wish I knew boats like I do R/C cars....I'd already be competing.
When I got the V3 and drove it it was way to hot for my liking even with the timing all the way down... I was probably still in the range of being okay but I dont like to see anything over 120....Once I put the old BJ 1800kv motor in it was like night day. Just my opinion but that new 2000kv motor does not seem efficient. It had my 3s 6000mah 50c lipos to 130 degrees...... I stopped that right away....
Now that i got this motor in and it rips and stays no hotter than 110 I'm happy. Im jsut thinking if I put a seaking 180 on there and increase timing i might be able to get another 5 to 10 mph with greater torque.... Is it me or does anyone feel the same way but my new V3 120 amp esc doesnt seems as powerfull as the old dyanmite 80 amp....Maybe its the settings and the old 80 amp dyanmite had a harder start but boy oh boy did the old BJ have some crazy acceleration...
I greatly thank you for all your advice and am soaking it in. Hey Chief if you see this please send me an email. I'm so sorry I lost them and all the info I'd love to have it again.

<--- Me when I drive R/C boats...

First off, welcome to this forum. There is a ton of info here, can't tell you how many hours I've spent reading through the various sections & threads in them. Like you, I have working with R/C trucks for over 4-years (that's why I have a car program card), but true performance boats are a whole new ball game.

I was taking the pix for posts 21 & 22, but it's so time consuming that by the time I was done & ready to post Pedro had already beat me to the punch when he announced that he had succeeded in programming the ESC with the card. Now thanks your post we know the new Dynamite ESC's can also be programed with the transmitter as well as the HobbyWing (& clones) program box(s).

I would like to offer a suggestion for the cooling lines... the one from the transom should go to the ESC first, then the horse shoe hose, then out of the ESC to the motor, out of motor goes to the side of the boat. I modified your pic best I could & attached it to this post, it's rough but I think you'll get the idea.

Can anyone recommend me a good esc and motor combination... Personally I don't see anything wrong with the ESC you have now. Next step would either be the Seaking 180 or one of the more expensive marine ESC's like Etti, Hydra Ice and so on.

As far as motors go... I got MG29v2 on Jan 16th, asked BHChieftan for one of his setup guides for that boat. In addition to the guide he offered very good advice.

Here's his reply... "The Miss Geico is actually my favorite RTR cat out there. I prepped one for my son who races it in p-limited offshore-- he beats folks running the stock blackjack." note: MG29 comes with 1500Kv motor - blackjack has 1800Kv motor.

Chief went on to say... "I tuned an x642 prop and blueprinted the sponsons and on 4S the boat is nearly 50mph on the 1500kv motor!"

Hey Greg... think you'd be happy with a great handling boat doin 50mph?? Here's what 46mph looks like... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbyiTND5IkA - not sayin that your a dumb kid, just providing some food for thought.

Yeah I know, everybody & his brother (except for me, Chief & a few others) are all hung up the 6S thing. Well guess what?? It's a bunch of Traxxas BULLS**T!!

If you want a fast boat work on the setup like Chief said. That guy knows FAR MORE about R/C boats than I do. I was (note: past tense) going to put the 1800Kv motor from my IM31 into MG29, not now. 1500Kv on 4S with a Octura x642 S&B'ed prop + Chiefs strut mod from the setup guide.

Welcome to the wonderful world of R/C boating, it's addicting as all hell. But they are so completely different then R/C anything else. There are so many variable's (just in the prop alone), now add in all the other stuff.

Here's some good reading... http://www.fastelectricboats.co.uk/fe_manual.php - this one is prop specific... http://rcraceboats.webnode.gr/news/gas-prop-essentials/ - I know it says gas props, but the concepts apply to all of them.

[RCBoaterGuy]

I don't have any experience with the new Seaking v3's or clones, but for some darn reason I just don't like them. I know what people are probably going to say, if you haven't tried them, then... forget it folks, if I have to explain you wouldn't understand.

First time I saw them I hurried up & bought the Turnigy 180 copy of Seaking 180v2. Still kicking myself in the a$$ for not buying two, cuz there impossible to find now.

If you prefer the older Seakings, HK still has them (it's a clone)... http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Boat_ESC.html - you already know about the programing, look at my earlier posts with the programmer pix, you already know what all that stuff is, so, no beating dead horse's.

[BHChieftain]

I need to update the setup guide for the V3... stay tuned...
Chief

[gregster82]

Horizon sent me the manual for the esc. I see descrepancys in it with calibration. Also they dont say it can he programmed by transmitter. Weird.....


http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/DYNM...nual-MULTI.pdf

[Buddyroe]

Thanks! All the info is awesome. I ran today for a few mins. Recommend to take reverse out before you run. I wiped out a flex shaft. Lol. Anyway I just used the program box and it worked great. easy to use and no extra cable needed with the hobby wing. Think I had the strut set a lil high. Had some slip. Ran 48.8 out the box.

[RCBoaterGuy]

Couple things... the chart showing the programmable items in those instructions looks an awful lot like the one I attached to post #9

I see a couple probs...
Forward & reverse, think most on this forum would suggest forward only.
Timing 15-degrees - search this forum, somewhere or another I seem to remember someone asking where timing should be set for Proboat? motors and the answer was 7.5-degrees (or less).

Instructions also say: Programming can be accomplished using the Dynamite LED Program Card (DYNS3005, sold separately). Went Dynamite's website... http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/D...rodID=DYNS3005 - no image, but, if you download the manual the diagram shows a program box that looks all too familiar.

"I see descrepancys in it with calibration" - Great catch!!

Here's what the Seaking manual says...

2.2 lf you are using a Handgun-style transmitter:

a) Move the throttle stick to the maximum position (that is: full throttle position), and then connect the battery pack to the ESC, after 2 seconds, "Beep-Beep- " tone can be heard, that means the full throttle position has been confirmed.

b) Release the throttle stick to the neutral position, a "Beep" tone can be heard, that means the neutral position has been confirmed Now the throttle range setting process is finished.


The Seaking way is how I've always done it, no probs. Car / truck ESC's same way except have to also do reverse.

Things that make you go... hhmmm

Horizon sent me the manual for the esc. I see descrepancys in it with calibration. Also they dont say it can he programmed by transmitter. Weird.....


http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/DYNM...nual-MULTI.pdf

[gregster82]

Yup. When i program it i do the full throttle at battery plug in beep beep then neutral beep. Funny how we are already ahead of proboat on this issue. i called horizon the other day they said they didnt know and were waiting on proboat to tell them. I made a support ticket on horizon website and this is what they replied with. All i know is the hobbywing way works and i find it funny " not sincerely" that horizon has wrong way or misi terpreted way. But at least we all know how to do it. Im glad the word is out that way the new person buying it can look this up and se the real info fast. I spent a long time searching internet to find out for myself. I also noticed the other day that the kyosho hurricane 900ve has same esc with different cooling head of course.