Prop installation question

[djviko44]

Hello everyone! I'm new at the forum and also at rc speed boating...

I have a brand new AquaCraft UL-1, this last weekend i went on and give it its first test and the plastic prop got broken...

I then bought a new AquaCraft L40x57 3 prop (supposed to be best for my boat) and when i tried to install it, the prop won't adjust correctly to the drive dog...

it seems as if my prop came not well built up (with some irregular shapes which block the drive dog to go all the way inside of the prop...)

Is it correctly installed or do i need to fix this? (buy another drive dog or how should i fix this so it's installed correctly?)

thanks a lot!

victor.

IMG_8157.jpgIMG_8160.jpgIMG_8156.jpgIMG_8158.jpg

[SirBudman32]

There is nothing wrong with the drive dog. First thing is you need to Dress (clean up) the prop, Second is it need to be sharpened and balanced. If not you will probably never get it to work on your boat. I also have a Ul-1 and have never ran that prop on it but there is a lot of info on here from people that have tried it and all same the same thing. Most be SHARP before it will work on the boat.

[Fluid]

Thanks to the OP for including excellent photos to help us help him. SirBudman is right about using a small file to remove the casting flashing in the prop slot, this will allow the prop to fit on the drive dog. This flashing is common on most props by the way. I also noticed that there is no gap between the drive dog and the strut, if this is the way the OP runs the boat it is wrong. He must adjust the flex cable so that there is a 4mm gap between the front of the drive dog and the back of the strut. Otherwise there will be excessive friction in the drive with lower speeds and higher amp draw and temperatures.




.

[djviko44]

Thanks a lot with the information guys! I'll do as directed and repost once im finished...

This is the way i got my boat from the online store (Im a total newbie and starting to learn)

Any other tip is appreciated.

Best regards

[dasboata]

I use a reinforced cut off wheel to clean up the drive dog slots !!

[djviko44]

Thanks for the tip...

I already cleaned the prop slot... and think it got in alright!

on another hand... i tried to fix the gap between the drive dog and the back of the strut... does this look better Fluid? (thanks for the tip by the way)

prop space.jpg

I'm gonna have some trouble setting up my prop correctly since i dont have any equipment for balancing or anything... I live in Mexico and i don't have too much places to get them balanced (but i hope to find one soon)

[SirBudman32]

The gap should be as wide as the flex is thick. You need more gap then what you have there.

[djviko44]

Ok, Thank you i will readjust it tonight...

[SirBudman32]

Here are a couple of pics of my Ul-1. you can see the gap.

IMG_20141113_102610.jpgIMG_20141113_102556.jpgIMG_20141113_102624.jpg

[djviko44]

GREAT!! thanks a lot!!

[SirBudman32]

No problem, Your welcome.

[djviko44]

Hi SirBudman, me again...

I have a question, i tried to readjust the drive dog but the flex shaft has a little plain space where i think needs to be setup the drive dog screw... (here's some pics)

IMG_8184.jpgIMG_8185.jpg

So my question is, for adjusting this gap between the drive dog and the shaft, do i need to adjust the shaft on the other end? (where the Motor Cable Coupler holds on to the motor?)

how far from the motor should i install it? (right now i had to release it in order for me to adjust the flex) as you can see:

img.jpg

I'm sorry for so much questions... thanks in advance...

Best regards,

Viko.

[SirBudman32]

Yes the flat spot is where the drive dog sets. As far as the Collet, slide it back on to the motor shaft and tighten the set screws back down. Loosen the collet nut and pull the flex shaft out a little bit to get the gap you need at the drive dog/ prop end.

[djviko44]

Great, thanks a lot... let me show you... i think it looks better now...

1 ready.jpg1 ready 2.jpg

[SirBudman32]

You got it.

[djviko44]

I know this question is not supposed to be for this thread but... now that i already have an UL-1, what other boat would you guys recommend me buy? I personally like the Pro Boat Impulse 31 or the Miss Geico 29.

I like a lot the looks of the Miss Geico (I have already a MG 17 which i bought for "my gf" (as pickup boat) but i think i need another boat in order to race and have fun with someone else...) what would you guys say? Thanks!

[PowerDemon]

I had a Traxxas Spartan and loved it. It goes a bit faster than your UL-1 and it turns very well too. It is also an excellent boat if the water is too rough for your hydro. Hope this helps!

[Brewbud]

Have you had the flex shaft out yet? Make sure to grease up that shaft well before you run it too.

[djviko44]

Thanx Brewbud, yes i took it out and greased it with marine grease

Yesterday I went out to the pond but was unable to get my UL-1 running... It kept on diving on front (my prop isnt balanced and i haven't sharpened it either) i guess this has a lot to do with it...
When i had the plastic stock prop i was able to run it fine...

I have no clue on how to setup my prop... Do you guys think this is the reason why i wasnt able to run my ul-1 yesterday?

Thx!

[SirBudman32]

Yes, That prop need to be SHARP for it to work.

[djviko44]

Ok, thanks a lot! I'll try to find some videos on how to do it or take it to the store for them to balance it for me...

[capnswanny]

After you get your prop cleaned up, the UL1 (most hydros actually) require a good amount of punch on the throttle to get out of the hole and up on plane. In other words, you can't take off slowly, they are nose heavy and like to submarine if you ease into the throttle.
Have fun my friend!

[capnswanny]

And for your viewing pleasure, here's a UL1 giving a couple FE30 hydros a run for their money...very motivational!
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ted-Sport-Hydr
I never knew a UL1 could be so competitive!!

[djviko44]

haha Thanks a lot capnswanny, i'll try to sharpen my prop with some youtube help the thing is i also need to buy a balancer (i dont have one so i can't figure out if my prop's balanced or not)

anyways thank you all for all this help... best regards

viko.

[djviko44]

Hello guys! I'm back with a quick question...

I don't know what's the best way to setup with my new L40x57/3 GrimRacer prop... but i've seen some videos and it seems that they all have the strut a little bit lower... could you guys tell me your opinion on as how further down shoult i leave mine? here's a picture of how it looks right now... (oh and by the way, my prop's already sharpened but i have to balance it still so im not over yet)

IMG_4827.jpg

Thanks a lot! (can't wait to get my UL-1 running!!

[djviko44]

Hello guys, i wanted to share another experience with you...

today i had a little time and made it to the pond... the thing is i saw a difference in my boat... it didn't nose-dive as a submarine as last week... but... it seems as if it didnt had too much power from the motor...

i don't know if i already damaged my motor by any means or could this be a problem still of my prop?

here are some pictures of how my prop looks...

Also wanted to ask you guys, the prop's bushing tends to go out of the strut... is that ok? or do i have to get it inside the strut and do something about it?

is the collet on the correct spot?

THANKS A LOT GUYS!

IMG_8291.jpgIMG_8295.jpgIMG_8297.jpgIMG_8299.jpgIMG_8302.jpg

[tlandauer]

Yes, That prop need to be SHARP for it to work.

I seriously don't think it is sharp enough, These props have to be really sharpened as SirBudman had pointed out. Your pictures show them to be perhaps sharp by your concept near the edge but they should also be thinned somewhat, I am no prop man but I bought Finished Props and the chord of the blades are properly thinned as well. I use Grim Racer 40x52/3 prop: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...dh-SB-aqub9720 it is very sharp, you can cut your fingers if you aren't careful. But this prop works really well with my UL-1.

After you get your prop cleaned up, the UL1 (most hydros actually) require a good amount of punch on the throttle to get out of the hole and up on plane. In other words, you can't take off slowly, they are nose heavy and like to submarine if you ease into the throttle.
Have fun my friend!

That is the trick, give the throttle a blip and when the tips of the sponsons are pointing up, pull full throttle and the boat will get on plane.

Your collet looks to be in the right spot. The bushing is called a "floating bushing" and if it drifts out , then it is working properly. It will be "stopped'' by the drive dog in any event.

Here is a video of my run: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ub1CBE4cFkc#t=20

[SirBudman32]

Yes bushing n collet are fine. Your prop is no where near sharp! Needs to be like a razor blade sharp.

[djviko44]

Wow thanks a lot guys!

I'll do it right away... (To be honest, i was afraid i'd sharpened it way too far so i tried to do a safe sharpening...)

Ill do it and test it again...

I'll leave it ninja sharp!! Haha

Cheers and thanks again

[djviko44]

Hello guys, me again!

I tried sharpening my prop way more... i got some results but... im having problems getting my UL-1 on plane... as you can see, on the first video im posing right here, my boat is going top speed (but its really slow) once it hits its own waves, it starts to plane and it flies beautifully...

what should i do in order to get it on plane right away? (do you think it still needs more sharpening?)

on the 2nd video it takes a whole lot of time to get on plane but then i tried to turn and i crashed it...

fun anyways... any input will be appreciated!

viko.

http://youtu.be/foFyqynVMrI

2nd try:

http://youtu.be/MH8D_UuEUG0

Thanks guys!!

oh and btw, the 3rd try suddenly my UL-1 didn't move (thought i'd break my prop) but found out after getting it back it happened because the collet got unscrewed... should the collet be really tight? do you think my prop needs to be sharper so the collet doesnt need so much effort to move?