What are the basic or best ajustments for HK Pursuit boat?

[boilo56]

I have a few more questions... It the Tactic tx/rx is a good system for this boat? Also, Where should i put the RX? I was thinking of mounting it in the front of the boat, Would it be ok?

[tlandauer]

I will try that, it is less work than removing the motor... And is there any place i can get the technical detail for the boat? Parts list or something like that?

You might want to use an one piece flex/cable , in the US here that is all we use, but in China, these two piece set up is popular. Now depending on whether you want/can cut it or buy one that is already cut to the right length, on Kintecracing.com they sell upgraded Pursuit parts.http://kintecracing.com/Pursuit.html Be ware, the flex/cable length is different between the stinger version and that of the strut version. Also I can't vouch if all the Pursuit on market has the same length, Kintec used to carry Pursuit and I am positive that the cable they sell fit their Pursuit.

I have a few more questions... It the Tactic tx/rx is a good system for this boat? Also, Where should i put the RX? I was thinking of mounting it in the front of the boat, Would it be ok?

Tactic should work for this boat but it is an entry level system. AquaCraft has a price point and this allows them to make a profit for their RTR boats. I use Spektrum these days after "graduating" from Tactic. Since i am a sport boater and my driving style is unpredictable, I feel more confident using the Spektrum.
I mount the rx on the starboard side since my ESC is on the portside, but my Pursuit is set up a bit differently. For the Tactic rx it is probably better that you mount it a bit higher then the lowest point of the V bottom floor.

[Make-a-Wake]

My buddies and i ditched the strut/half shaft setup and went 3/16 and stinger......more solid

[boilo56]

I like the tactic because it doesn't have an external antenna. But i also have a fs GT3-C ans fs receivers i can use. The boat has a two pieces flex/shaft, and an adjustable stinger like tlandauer. I was thinking of putting the rx way up in the nose, in case the boat sinks, i should be able to drive the boat to shore.

[tlandauer]

I like the tactic because it doesn't have an external antenna. But i also have a fs GT3-C ans fs receivers i can use. The boat has a two pieces flex/shaft, and an adjustable stinger like tlandauer. I was thinking of putting the rx way up in the nose, in case the boat sinks, i should be able to drive the boat to shore.

The boat either sinks or flips, either way you would not be able to drive her back, in most cases it flips and the prop is on top, if the boat flips and the hatch is torn off, it sinks, that is why you need to put enough floatation in the hull. Swimming pool noodle is great, cut them in pieces and stuff them into the bow, not you radio, lol........
Sorry, hope you don't mind my kidding.

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[tlandauer]

Also floatation under your hatch!

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[Peter A]

Put your receiver in a balloon and zip tie the neck, this will keep most water out. Tape the hatch on when you run the boat, I use yellow pvc electrical tape. My Pursuit came with buoyancy in th the front of the hull, similar to pool noodle and there is more in the packaging.

[boilo56]

The boat either sinks or flips, either way you would not be able to drive her back, in most cases it flips and the prop is on top, if the boat flips and the hatch is torn off, it sinks, that is why you need to put enough floatation in the hull. Swimming pool noodle is great, cut them in pieces and stuff them into the bow, not you radio, lol........
Sorry, hope you don't mind my kidding.

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I was able to drive my rio back when flipped, the prop acts like a plane prop and pushes the boat... and i could still steer it. The location of the rx, in the rio allow the signal to come in when flipped. But i thought that putting the rx in the nose, will allow some sort of control. I may be dreaming, but at least i'll try it! Thanks!

[boilo56]

An other question... Do i need to sharpen and balance the stock prop, or is it ok to start with? thank you!

[tlandauer]

An other question... Do i need to sharpen and balance the stock prop, or is it ok to start with? thank you!

Not really having used the stock prop, but it is a rather rough affair.
Yes, should be s/b' ed.

[boilo56]

Again, an other question. Is the break-away rudder needs to be tight or loose. Right now, it would take a good hit to make it lift up.
Thank you!

[tlandauer]

Use your instinct when trying to lift your rudder, meaning you need to secure it enough so the rudder will not tilt up with normal usage. I think when you really hit something in the water, that sudden impact is hard to duplicate by using your hand to lift your rudder.
Also your pictures look great with your set up, just a heads up: when you split the water line to a "Y", you are potentially facing the possibility that the flow volume won't be as good as only one. Water will flow to whichever tube is allowing more free flow. Your motor and motor mount front plate is all rigged up with tubes, IMO that is a "slower" route and I suspect more water will go to the ESC---which is not a bad thing, but in reality if you don't split, the result will be just as good if not better.
If you want two independent cooling lines then you need dual water pick ups---either on the rudder or add another pick up be it prop wash pick up or transom pick up.
Another thing: if your boat is flipped, resist the urge to drive it back using the prop to push air, lol... the unloaded rev is like bench testing your motor with full throttle---a practice that is not recommended and has been discussed by some of the most respected names here. Better to have a "plan B" to retrieve your boat.
I didn't want to say it originally because I don't want you to think that I am always saying something contrary to what your excellent ideas are, but I couldn't help myself, again, apologies......

[boilo56]

Use your instinct when trying to lift your rudder, meaning you need to secure it enough so the rudder will not tilt up with normal usage. I think when you really hit something in the water, that sudden impact is hard to duplicate by using your hand to lift your rudder.
Also your pictures look great with your set up, just a heads up: when you split the water line to a "Y", you are potentially facing the possibility that the flow volume won't be as good as only one. Water will flow to whichever tube is allowing more free flow. Your motor and motor mount front plate is all rigged up with tubes, IMO that is a "slower" route and I suspect more water will go to the ESC---which is not a bad thing, but in reality if you don't split, the result will be just as good if not better.
If you want two independent cooling lines then you need dual water pick ups---either on the rudder or add another pick up be it prop wash pick up or transom pick up.
Another thing: if your boat is flipped, resist the urge to drive it back using the prop to push air, lol... the unloaded rev is like bench testing your motor with full throttle---a practice that is not recommended and has been discussed by some of the most respected names here. Better to have a "plan B" to retrieve your boat.
I didn't want to say it originally because I don't want you to think that I am always saying something contrary to what your excellent ideas are, but I couldn't help myself, again, apologies......

Thank you for the tip about watercooling, i didn't knew about that factor, i will modify it tonight, i don't want to burn anything! And Yo don't have to apologize, you tell the fact as it is, that is good for the noob i am! Thanks alot, you are a great teacher!!!

I will post the vid of my boat first run later tonight!!!