Team Liquid Dash
Just how accurate is the Power Out in the data logging?
On the bench it is saying full throttle is 45% at the moment.
Dmitry
I though this problem got solved for you in the other thread by Tyler Garrard???
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com...-Lehner-motors
Starting at post #97
Larry
Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet
It was solved, I'm still trying to set the correct trims to acheive full rpm at full throttle by matching the data logging
Even though its solved for the most part and finally calibrated -- I still notice that each ESC seems to take turns spinning at 10% - 15% throttle blips... It's not a big deal. It's just strange. I assume this is the "castle issue" Tyler mentioned where each castle ESC seem to vary when used for twins.
It's as if throttle signal slightly varies for both ESC's even tho its connected to the same Y cable.
I'm sure it'll run fine now on the water once it gets going and won't cause the torque roll flips I experienced when previously.
Torque Roll with a twin when turning at speed.
If you have your props turning inbound, you will have problems turning at speed.
When you turn the outside motor loads up in a turn, and the torque of that motor is now trying to rotate the boat even more to the outside, causing a flip.
This is why I run my props outbound on my twin race Cat, when the outside motor loads up in a turn, the torque of that motor is now trying to hold the boat flat on the water.
I have found that I can now turn at almost full speed. My "Q" Cat runs at a full speed of 70MPH.
The top speed of the boat would be a bit faster with inbound props in a straight line, but cannot turn without slowing down (FLIP)
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1675...1255439039918/
I do not know if this will work,
Above is a old video of my cat , when I was still setting it up.
Larry
Last edited by TRUCKPULL; 04-30-2018 at 02:29 PM.
Past NAMBA- P Mono -1 Mile Race Record holder
Past NAMBA- P Sport -1 Mile Race Record holder
Bump & Grind Racing Props -We Like Em Smooth & Wet
It was a pretty slow SAW pass
and I do understand what you're saying but this was not the case
Just trying to get the TX to get to full throttle -- the maximum "Throttle In" I'm getting from data logs is 1.965 ms -- One of my other data logs showed Throttle In of over 2.1ms
What is the max value I should be shooting for?
Any of you guys have any idea of just how accurate the Castle data logging is supposed to be?
I had a separate external data logger hooked up to it complete with current and rpm sensors and all of the data in comparison compared to castle’s was about 2x higher. My data showed max of 40k rpm and 250 amps... castle showed max of 25k rpm, 40% Power Out, and 100 amps. Castle data logging was even set to record at 5x per second.
Kind of weird. Seems like some pretty useless data...
If the pole count is not correct for the motor, the rpm will be incorrect. By entering the correct pole count, the rpm shown in my Castle logs matches well with the speeds the boat is running.
.
ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for
I've checked before and the pole count was set correctly to 2 pole. But I'll make sure
Either way, the amps sound a little off -- is it calculated different than what a current sensor between ESC and battery would come up with?
Even the watts were at 1,400 on castle but 3,300 for my logger.
Have you checked the actual amp hour usage? Time a run and see how much you put back into the packs. Compare that to what the loggers show you used. Then you’ll know.
My Castles all show virtually identical amps to what I actually used. This also means that watts are correct.
What is your exact setup?
.
ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for
Has anyone found a good place to buy the 1/8" aluminum extrusion from besides the one that Brian posted? They want $35 to ship a 4' piece...kinda pricey. I have an Edge 200 lite and would like to water cool it asap.
Team Liquid Dash
Im going to try one like this IMG_20180727_205417215.jpgIMG_20180727_205439755_LL.jpg
You don’t necessarily need those particular extrusions. You can make (bend) some L shapes with thin copper or aluminum and use Arctic Silver epoxy (amazon) to glue 1-2 tubes on each side. If you have the original aluminum heat sinks that came with the Phoenix edge 200 — you can simply glue tubes direct on it.
Yeah I see that they changed the design of the ESC and put added a large aluminum plate to them. If I remember correctly when they first came out with the ICE lite series they were only rated at 6s and now they are rated at 8s like the regular version. I wonder if adding that plate added enough cooling to rate them a bit higher? Looks like with the new plate I will just be able to add tubes to that and call it a day. Hopefully its enough to provide the proper cooling?
Team Liquid Dash
I been running the 100s like pics I posted without any problems. Here is a 100 and 130 I did. IMG_20180728_181417390.jpgIMG_20180728_181403442_LL.jpg
Team Liquid Dash
Yea they do here I just took a couple of pics.IMG_20180728_183928572.jpgIMG_20180728_183841788.jpgIMG_20180728_183857610.jpg
That is a 200 I haven't finished yet
Not hard at all. I been using this for waterproofing my esc's and receivers so far it has worked great.IMG_20180728_192136041_LL.jpg
Nice that was going to be one of my next questions.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Team Liquid Dash
Raydee, you should be okay. If you want to make it more bulletproof you can just glue aluminum/copper plates to the opposite (exposed) Bus bars and attach them to the stock aluminum heatsink. L shape here.
I did that + 2 tubes on each side of it and I pulled about 420 amps from them and I’m going to test out some higher pitch SAW props and expect amps to go a good bit higher on my hpr99 twin cat
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
420 spikes not continuous. Im spiking nearly 200 on a 100 with a 2860 5050kv on 2s
Team Liquid Dash
Spikes or not, i think it’s safe to say not many cheap China controllers would handle anything close
Oh and don’t forget attaching extra caps as close to pcb as possible, if you plan to exceed amp limits. I have about 5000uf of ZL 470uf rubycons on each without pony tail leads (I removed the stock caps). Placed (4) of those in the front
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just curious what diameter shrink wrap you guys are using on the edge 200 controllers after you water cool them?
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Team Liquid Dash
I will check when I get home
Bookmarks