I was told and ignored

[S_pisco7084]

I read this on here and completely ignored it. Saw a lot of people broke their AQ flex cable instantly. Well mine broke and my 25$ prop is at the bottom of a lake.

The OSE cable is in my cart now but I need a prop as well. I was running a grim racer 42x55 2 blade. I have no experience with props or what the numbers mean that being said I'd like to try a 3 blade prop... I see AQ has one that is 40x52 3 blade. Should this work for my application ??

[S_pisco7084]

Note: for now I'm using cheap venom 25c batteries that I had laying around and they are getting pretty warm. 115-130 range so I'd like to bring those temps down as well

[kfxguy]

Note: for now I'm using cheap venom 25c batteries that I had laying around and they are getting pretty warm. 115-130 range so I'd like to bring those temps down as well

Never use anything than less than 50c in a boat (except something like a mini mono) and you'll be fine.

[tlandauer]

I read this on here and completely ignored it. Saw a lot of people broke their AQ flex cable instantly. Well mine broke and my 25$ prop is at the bottom of a lake.

The OSE cable is in my cart now but I need a prop as well. I was running a grim racer 42x55 2 blade. I have no experience with props or what the numbers mean that being said I'd like to try a 3 blade prop... I see AQ has one that is 40x52 3 blade. Should this work for my application ??

What boat do you have?
That prop is good but will be slower than the 42x55, and, you need to get the prop balanced and thinned , the "raw" ones come out of the castings should not be run at all, I could not tell if the prop you lost was properly prepared or not since you did not say, but judging by the price you paid, i have a suspicion that it was a "raw" prop.
That is very important! Running an unbalanced prop would not give you good performance and in addition it will damage your drive line components!

[Doby]

Never use anything than less than 50c in a boat (except something like a mini mono) and you'll be fine.

Wow...guess my 25C Turnigys that I run in all my Motley Crew are no good.

Lets try and be realistic here....

[tlandauer]

What boat do you have?
That prop is good but will be slower than the 42x55, and, you need to get the prop balanced and thinned , the "raw" ones come out of the castings should not be run at all, I could not tell if the prop you lost was properly prepared or not since you did not say, but judging by the price you paid, i have a suspicion that it was a "raw" prop.
That is very important! Running an unbalanced prop would not give you good performance and in addition it will damage your drive line components!

Never mind, the Forum is half working and I could not back up my page for some reason.

[S_pisco7084]

What boat do you have?
That prop is good but will be slower than the 42x55, and, you need to get the prop balanced and thinned , the "raw" ones come out of the castings should not be run at all, I could not tell if the prop you lost was properly prepared or not since you did not say, but judging by the price you paid, i have a suspicion that it was a "raw" prop.
That is very important! Running an unbalanced prop would not give you good performance and in addition it will damage your drive line components!

I'm running the lucas oil. The prop was "raw" out of the box and on to the boat. I had intentions of balancing it myself sometime soon. This is probably my 6-7th run with the boat.
I'd like to get the 3 blade honestly because I think they look cooler. Can you maybe point me in the direction of a pre balanced and sharpened prop ?

[S_pisco7084]

Something like this ??

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...octsb-y537%2F3

[tlandauer]

The closest to the one you originally wanted is this one: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...octsb-x440%2F3
They are both 40 mm in dia. and the pitch is similar.

[kfxguy]

Wow...guess my 25C Turnigys that I run in all my Motley Crew are no good.

Lets try and be realistic here....

Wow! Maybe your just lucky or way under propped. Good for you! But I'm stating what my rule of thumb is. I've seen way too many issues from running too weak of a battery....your experienced. ...maybe the next guy isnt. I would never recommend nor say that a 25c battery is good in a boat that size unless you never push it hard at all. You know this too so I'm not sure why you'd throw something out there like that. A boat draws a good bit more current than a car or truck so why would you act like it's just generally ok? It's always better to have a battery that's more than up to the task than one that's just borderline and I think you know that.....so that's being realistic for you.

[4THLAKERC]

on my the maiden voyage of my mc i hit somthing in water (see video on vids and pics or youtube)and lost a balanced and shrpnd prop i got from dosbota on this site $50 made me sick.im running a raw grm racr 42x55 prop now and realizing y my speed isnt there but gunshy about losing another $50 prop and doing it myself seems complicated. The stock plastic actully performs better than the raw. my plan is to send prop raw prop to have it done. As far as batts im shocked those battts work im running two 7.4 6000 80s and wish i had more

[S_pisco7084]

The closest to the one you originally wanted is this one: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...octsb-x440%2F3
They are both 40 mm in dia. and the pitch is similar.

Thank you sir. I'll give that one a try. Cheaper than I expected as well.

[S_pisco7084]

Wow! Maybe your just lucky or way under propped. Good for you! But I'm stating what my rule of thumb is. I've seen way too many issues from running too weak of a battery....your experienced. ...maybe the next guy isnt. I would never recommend nor say that a 25c battery is good in a boat that size unless you never push it hard at all. You know this too so I'm not sure why you'd throw something out there like that. A boat draws a good bit more current than a car or truck so why would you act like it's just generally ok? It's always better to have a battery that's more than up to the task than one that's just borderline and I think you know that.....so that's being realistic for you.

My venom 5000mah 25c batts were used in my 4x4 truck and must have at least 50 if not more runs through them. I put them in my boat until I can buy some nicer ones and they are working fine except for the fact they are getting pretty warm.

[fusion_m8]

Hopefully your OSE cable is the correct length. I had a bit of drama with mine being around half inch too long and had to cut it with a dremel. Not a big deal if you already have a dremel, but I didn't have one and had to spend $40 getting a dremel and another $8 for the rotary cutting wheel.

I am using Zippy Flightmax 6000mah 50c hardpacks and despite some of the bad reviews Zippys have been getting, I've found that they perform as good as Gens Ace 5000mah 50c packs which seem have a stellar reputation.

As for the prop, I'm using VXP X445 1.4p CNC prop, again lots of so called racers on this site despise CNC props, but I've found these work extremely well with the Lucas Oil and Miss Geico. I've just purchased a VXP V4214/2 1.6p detongued, S&B prop and can't wait to see if the detonguing and higher pitch will give me more top end speed without overheating the electrics.

Good luck and enjoy the hobby!

FWIW: Gens Ace is having a 50% off sale on their battery packs until 30th Sept 2014.

[SD Eracer]

Hopefully your OSE cable is the correct length. I had a bit of drama with mine being around half inch too long and had to cut it with a dremel.

I had the opposite experience. My OSE flexshaft for my Lucas Oil seemed to be about 1/4" too short. So just in case, I purchased an Octura Long coupler which made up the difference. I'm happy I did, because it lowered the rather large coupler to stuffing tube gap that's on the factory setup.

I have to say, when I ran my Lucas Oil for the first time (coming from a Wildcat EP), I wasn't completely awed by the speed difference. I was faster and everything, but it didn't really give me that "jolt" I thought I would feel. I bought a UL-1 at the same time which was shockingly fast for me in comparison.

However, after my stock flexshaft broke, I purchased a OSE Flexshaft and a Grimracer metal proper (balanced & sharpened). The difference was far more significant than I expected, the boat is absolutely flying now, it feels almost as fast as my stock UL-1!

Also, I noticed my mAh cosumption has decreased as well as my temps. I though my boat would use more power and heat up more with a metal prop, but the opposite has happened. I've gained 30 seconds on my runs and dropped almost 7 degrees on my motor and ESC.

[Luck as a Constant]

Wow! Maybe your just lucky or way under propped. Good for you! But I'm stating what my rule of thumb is. I've seen way too many issues from running too weak of a battery....your experienced. ...maybe the next guy isnt. I would never recommend nor say that a 25c battery is good in a boat that size unless you never push it hard at all. You know this too so I'm not sure why you'd throw something out there like that. A boat draws a good bit more current than a car or truck so why would you act like it's just generally ok? It's always better to have a battery that's more than up to the task than one that's just borderline and I think you know that.....so that's being realistic for you.

i have run 20c up to 40c. obviously 40c does better in any setup, but for a stock rtr the 20c packs did ok. most of the heat generated in the packs is when they start to dump their load. then things heat up quick. better to watch runtimes...
is 50c better? yes.....is 50c or higher necessary to run a boat? not even close...

To say "never" use anything less than 50c in a boat is kinda ridiculous dude... i gotta side with doby on this

[Luck as a Constant]

To the op, I wouldn't bother with a 3 blade on a cat.
As far as heat. If you want to bring temps down, shorten runtime a bit.



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[kfxguy]

i have run 20c up to 40c. obviously 40c does better in any setup, but for a stock rtr the 20c packs did ok. most of the heat generated in the packs is when they start to dump their load. then things heat up quick. better to watch runtimes...
is 50c better? yes.....is 50c or higher necessary to run a boat? not even close...

To say "never" use anything less than 50c in a boat is kinda ridiculous dude... i gotta side with doby on this

Everyone is entitled to their opinion.

[Luck as a Constant]

Everyone is entitled to their opinion.

This is true. Which is precisely why you should state that it's your opinion when making those kinds of statements man.
It hardly came off as your opinion
Just my opinion tho lol


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[kfxguy]

This is true. Which is precisely why you should state that it's your opinion when making those kinds of statements man.
It hardly came off as your opinion
Just my opinion tho lol


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Wasn't my opinion. ...was based on actual experience.

[jfrancisco892]

C rating is a number that does not always represent what it is supposed to in batteries. More often than not the quality of the cells (typically contingent on the manufacturer) is more important than the C rating. The C rating is simply a coefficient to determine maximum constant amperage that the cells are capable of. That being said you can have a higher constant amperage rating with cells that have a lower C rating compared to cells with higher C rating depending on the capacity. To simply say "do not run batteries less than 50c in boats" is completely ambiguous and terrible advice.

Maximum constant amperage = Battery capacity in Amp Hours (Amp hours = Mah/1000) x C Rating of Batteries

Regarding a 3 blade prop on the boat, I will say that I have a Motley Crew (Same hull as lucas just different hardware) and have had much success with an Octura X440/3 on it for offshore trim.

Be sure to make sure the flex cable properly aligns with the flex coupler on the motor. If you have to move the motor or brass tube to get the flex cable in the collet, it will surely cause more drag on the drive line which in turn results in more load on the motor and more heat.

[kfxguy]

C rating is a number that does not always represent what it is supposed to in batteries. More often than not the quality of the cells (typically contingent on the manufacturer) is more important than the C rating. The C rating is simply a coefficient to determine maximum constant amperage that the cells are capable of. That being said you can have a higher constant amperage rating with cells that have a lower C rating compared to cells with higher C rating depending on the capacity. To simply say "do not run batteries less than 50c in boats" is completely ambiguous and terrible advice.

Maximum constant amperage = Battery capacity in Amp Hours (Amp hours = Mah/1000) x C Rating of Batteries

Regarding a 3 blade prop on the boat, I will say that I have a Motley Crew (Same hull as lucas just different hardware) and have had much success with an Octura X440/3 on it for offshore trim.

Be sure to make sure the flex cable properly aligns with the flex coupler on the motor. If you have to move the motor or brass tube to get the flex cable in the collet, it will surely cause more drag on the drive line which in turn results in more load on the motor and more heat.

It's always terrible advice to recommend using a better battery? Sorry, do not see your logic there. I see you have a dragster as your avatar, so if that means anything to you I'll give you an example you can relate to. Say you build this engine, it has 11.5 to 1 compression, you know it can run on 91 octane, but...it's cutting it close. So do you:
A) say screw it, I'll chance it on 91 or
B) you go ahead and run it on 93 because you know it's safer and gives you more of a margin for error (tune, too lean, high air intake temps).

In my mind, the better thing to do is have the safety margin. So yea, go ahead and keep recommending the use of lower amp batteries and people will keep posting here that their esc burnt....their wires get hot, connectors get hot, melt or come unsoldered, their batteries puff.....Me....I'll kick back and think about the ambiguous and terrible advice I'm giving and just keep it to myself for now on.

[jfrancisco892]

It's always terrible advice to recommend using a better battery? Sorry, do not see your logic there. I see you have a dragster as your avatar, so if that means anything to you I'll give you an example you can relate to. Say you build this engine, it has 11.5 to 1 compression, you know it can run on 91 octane, but...it's cutting it close. So do you:
A) say screw it, I'll chance it on 91 or
B) you go ahead and run it on 93 because you know it's safer and gives you more of a margin for error (tune, too lean, high air intake temps).

In my mind, the better thing to do is have the safety margin. So yea, go ahead and keep recommending the use of lower amp batteries and people will keep posting here that their esc burnt....their wires get hot, connectors get hot, melt or come unsoldered, their batteries puff.....Me....I'll kick back and think about the ambiguous and terrible advice I'm giving and just keep it to myself for now on.

It's terrible because you said it as if it is a standard to run 50c or better batteries. Based on that logic you can't run Hyperion batteries in boats since the highest C rating they offer is 45c.

As far as the compression ratio goes, I'll just touch the tip of the iceberg and say compression ratio is only one of many factors to consider when determining what fuel to run. Why would I run 110 octane race fuel when pump gas would work just fine? Basically you are saying that if you were racing a production vehicle you would run the most expensive race gas you could just to make sure the car would not have any issues (All of these references translate into fe boats with battery choice). Also the difference between 91 and 93 is so minimal both price and performance wise that it doesn't fit as a reference when comparing batteries that are up to double the cost of cheaper alternatives.

Not everyone wants to put thousands of dollars into toy boats. Maybe they just want to have one to mess with every once in a while. In which case a high performance high C rated battery would be nothing more than a waste of money.

[Luck as a Constant]

Wasn't my opinion. ...was based on actual experience.

Noplease.
Nobody is arguing higher c isn't better, but your comment was way off man. You can debate this one all you want, but 50c isn't necessary to run a boat. Not even close.
-)


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[kfxguy]

I see why alot of people just quit posting here. Too many know it all's, professional advice correctors and self proclaimed experts. I'll just say you win. Carve yourself a notch on your keyboard......lol

[Luck as a Constant]

I see why alot of people just quit posting here. Too many know it all's, professional advice correctors and self proclaimed experts. I'll just say you win. Carve yourself a notch on your keyboard......lol

Lol is this not exactly what you're doing? Making statements as fact based on your experience? C'mon man don't get all offended cause we called you out on that. You made the comment not us. -)


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[Doug Smock]

please sirs.

[Luck as a Constant]

Sorry )


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[S_pisco7084]

Gees I forgot what my original post was. To end the debate. Nimh or nicad batteries are the future.

Back to topic I got my OSE flex shaft, it fit perfect. for now I'm using my stock plastic prop and I don't notice much of a difference compared to my unbalanced or unsharpened brass one. Still saving $ to order a ready to run prop.

[tlandauer]

That plastic 3 blade prop is one of my favorite props, I used it for a long time and still use it when i do testing sometime.
I am sure there was just as much debate when Nimh and Nicad were in use .