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Thread: most Reliable ESC

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    200

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dasboata View Post
    .................................................. ....
    I am having a problem with the boat cutting out not sure if it is the motor or my 180 Seaking. I am thinking it is the motor so I am going to get the TP, and try that 1st thanks Chris

    If I recall correctly some of the older Seaking 180s had an issue with LVC kicking in too soon. I believe setting LVC lower such as 2.8v/cell and/or setting Lipo cell count manually (not "Auto Lipo") worked. Take care to stop running as soon as decrease in speed is noticed.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    8,010

    Cool

    Chris, http://www.ecalc.ch will give you a good idea of the props to use to give the load you want. Depending on you needs, 150 amps would be a good draw to shoot for. The 12" prop is......not the best choice.




    .
    ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for


  3. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    3,119

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    [QUOTE=Fluid;586464]Chris, http://www.ecalc.ch will give you a good idea of the props to use to give the load you want. Depending on you needs, 150 amps would be a good draw to shoot for. The 12" prop is......not the best choice.




    .Very helpful thanks Jay

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    1,136

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    Jay, thanks for link. I was trying to find that site...agreed 12" prop is rather large and dangerous on motors running the kv we do...unless its a racing plane, the majority of propped planes run 1200kv and lower..plus that would be to much load with the 12" ...look forward to seeing your finished test setup....most rc inline meters only go to 150a there is a way to shunt and get up too 300a. I will try to find the article on how to do this and link it for ya.... DJ

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    974

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    My Hacker motor had a KV of 290.

    Mark

  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    774

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    I found that during testing to get stable results it was necessary to run water through the esc and motor, just as in the boat.
    Very easy to do, hose end cap and drill for brass tube apply Goop to brass tube and push thur hose end cap and let dry overnight. Jut barely open the water valve enough to get about 3" of water flowing out the exit tube.

    IMPORTANT!!! Stand behind the test rig, when a prop breaks it goes to the side and forward!! Test outside and away from things you don't want to repair!! Airplane props from the hobby store are only rated for 18,000 rpm.

    Here's how to double the amps on an Eagletree system.

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...-in-15-minutes

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    3,119

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    Quote Originally Posted by jcald2000 View Post
    I found that during testing to get stable results it was necessary to run water through the esc and motor, just as in the boat.
    Very easy to do, hose end cap and drill for brass tube apply Goop to brass tube and push thur hose end cap and let dry overnight. Jut barely open the water valve enough to get about 3" of water flowing out the exit tube.

    IMPORTANT!!! Stand behind the test rig, when a prop breaks it goes to the side and forward!! Test outside and away from things you don't want to repair!! Airplane props from the hobby store are only rated for 18,000 rpm.

    Here's how to double the amps on an Eagletree system.

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...-in-15-minutes
    I have changed the design, I am mounting the prop right to the motor shaft as suggested ,,And I will be build a shroud , I appreciate all the help and Ideas all you guys gave me thank you !!

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