most Reliable ESC

[dasboata]

Who make the most reliable speed control ? thanks Chris

[PowerDemon]

I have heard good things about Swordfish. They are reasonably priced as well. But if you want true reliability go with MGM their costumer support is unparalleled in the world of ESCs. But MGM ESCs are very expensive but you get what you pay for. Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps!

[MarkF]

The answer to your question Chris is simple. Nobody. But there are controllers that work better than others but you need to let us know how many cells you want to run and how hard are you planning to be on it. Don't want to recommend an $800. mgm for a spec boat.

Mark

[tlandauer]

Chris, that is a loaded question! I can't resist to "de-tongue" abit
It all depends what is your set up and what kind of purpose the set up will serve.
If you are running sport with no more than 6s, a Seaking 180A ESC would be a good choice particularly the V2. I have had good experience with them, a Swordfish 220Pro+ 6s is good too, but my experience with this is still short so I would not be able to say how reliable in the long run it will be, but it worked really well on my rigger. That is a 4s with a 2460kv (TP motor) with a H7 you did for me.
MGM is top notch but expensive and if you are after record runs and reliability with good customer support, then yes.
I like my Shulze but it is no longer available :-(
Just my $. 02

[dasboata]

I have heard good things about Swordfish. They are reasonably priced as well. But if you want true reliability go with MGM their costumer support is unparalleled in the world of ESCs. But MGM ESCs are very expensive but you get what you pay for. Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps!

Just a play boat my mean machine. I have read my good things about the fish ! thanks chris

The answer to your question Chris is simple. Nobody. But there are controllers that work better than others but you need to let us know how many cells you want to run and how hard are you planning to be on it. Don't want to recommend an $800. mgm for a spec boat. Going to run 4 or 5s Mark.. I am not spending $800 LOL..it's just a play boat ,, thanks Chris

Mark

Chris, that is a loaded question! I can't resist to "de-tongue" abit
It all depends what is your set up and what kind of purpose the set up will serve.
If you are running sport with no more than 6s, a Seaking 180A ESC would be a good choice particularly the V2. I have had good experience with them, a Swordfish 220Pro+ 6s is good too, but my experience with this is still short so I would not be able to say how reliable in the long run it will be, but it worked really well on my rigger. That is a 4s with a 2460kv (TP motor) with a H7 you did for me.
MGM is top notch but expensive and if you are after record runs and reliability with good customer support, then yes.
I like my Shulze but it is no longer available :-(
Just my $. 02

I am having a problem with the boat cutting out not sure if it is the motor or my 180 Seaking. I am thinking it is the motor so I am going to get the TP, and try that 1st thanks Chris

[T.S.Davis]

I've found my Seaking 180's to be the most idiot proof. It just works for me.

As Mark mentioned, you'll get more info if you tell these guys what you want to run. If you're building a 10s setup a Seaking wont get you there.

[dasboata]

I've found my Seaking 180's to be the most idiot proof. It just works for me.

As Mark mentioned, you'll get more info if you tell these guys what you want to run. If you're building a 10s setup a Seaking wont get you there.

Is there anyway to check the ESC out under load out of the boat ? Thinking about building something with a airplane prop ?

[T.S.Davis]

Do you have the programing box? Could be the LVC set to a particular cell count instead of auto detect. Grasping at straws.

My 120 can be finicky if I get to close to the 120 mark but the 180's have been spot on.

What about a signal issue? Have you tried it with different RX's?

[MarkF]

I ran 180s in my 6s 102 mph cat so don't see the controller as the problem unless it's damaged internally. The obvious thing to check is the caps going bad.(slightly swollen) The other thing is your batteries are bad. They should not have puffed so easy unless you forgot to charge them and they ran down to low.
I have an old outrunner motor that I can mount to the bench and run different airplane props for testing controllers but mostly for breaking in new batteries.

Mark

[T.S.Davis]

I killed a 2s pack by believing I had a charged 2 packs to run in series. Only to find I had charged only one of the two. One pack is fine and the other is wrecked.

[dasboata]

Do you have the programing box? Could be the LVC set to a particular cell count instead of auto detect. Grasping at straws.

My 120 can be finicky if I get to close to the 120 mark but the 180's have been spot on. I do I have the LVC disabled I am going to make a test stand and try a airplane prop, I tryed using the 5 cell count and also the auto detect same with both ??? thanks Chris

What about a signal issue? Have you tried it with different RX's?

I am using a old 75 MHZ ,, and the rudder stillworks ??thanks chris

I ran 180s in my 6s 102 mph cat so don't see the controller as the problem unless it's damaged internally. The obvious thing to check is the caps going bad.(slightly swollen) The other thing is your batteries are bad. They should not have puffed so easy unless you forgot to charge them and they ran down to low.
I have an old outrunner motor that I can mount to the bench and run different airplane props for testing controllers but mostly for breaking in new batteries.

Mark

My Batteries came out puffed . I discharged them down to store voltage and the puffing whent away, I do undestand that is not right I just hate to throw them away LOL. Do you know what air prop to start with on my set up and what is the shart size as I want to get going on this thanks chris

[jkr]

For your case as i saw in the other thread is the one you already use (seaking 180a).

[Fluid]

?... Thinking about building something with a airplane prop ?

Chris, I've built a number of airboat over the years, tell us the details of what you are looking to build.




.

[dasboata]

Chris, I've built a number of airboat over the years, tell us the details of what you are looking to build.
I had some uncut AM strut material I like to keep on hand The struts have 4 strut needle bearings I think I shouls star with a 6" airplane prop suggestions on diameter and pitch welcome I\thanks Chris



.

Jay I will post some pics of what I started today airboat is a good idea

[jkr]

What is this in the photos?
Test bench?

[T.S.Davis]

Don't be surprised if it's the 75mhz radio giving you fits.

[domwilson]

I know you guys are just ribbing each other. Personally I think it's funny. But some might not think so. Can you please put some indication that you are joking so
others won't think this is a hostile forum? Thanks...

[RandyatBBY]

I have given up on the old radios I have a new Futaba 4PL-S and love it. you are right Terry

[dasboata]

Don't be surprised if it's the 75mhz radio giving you fits.

I will put it on my 2.4 thanks Chris ,

[dasboata]

What is this in the photos?
Test bench?

test stand I am not done yet !!

[srislash]

Jay I will post some pics of what I started today airboat is a good idea

That is pretty ingenious Chris. I have been thinking of building something like that for testing actual KV of motors.

[Doug Smock]

I know you guys are just ribbing each other. Personally I think it's funny. But some might not think so. Can you please put some indication that you are joking so
others won't think this is a hostile forum? Thanks...

I took a broom through the thread Dom since apparently enough wasn't enough.

Grown men playing with toy boats fellas.

[jkr]

test stand I am not done yet !!

Why you need a test stand?

[dasboata]

Why you need a test stand?

I want to see if the motor or batteries are bad don't want to run the motor without a load I am going to use a airplane prop for the load and some cooling !

[MarkF]

Chris the prop really depends on the motor and kv. You will have to have an amp meter and test with different props. My motor was a Hacker outrunner that could swing a 12" prop at 10s and a 16" prop on 6s. It all depends on your setup. These small boat motors I would start with a 4.7x 4.7 prop and see what you get. They make prop adapters for 5mm shaft so it's easy to mount an airplane prop on the motor. You might have to get an airplane motor mount or you could make your own out of aluminum.

Mark

[olwarbirds]

Chris, Ive done prototype RC plane design stuff for years...loads of testing..gas to electric, prop to ducted fan....no need for the strut and flexshat, unless your wanting to test those too...which would be a really nice feature to have, specially for us "SAW" guys..comparing load/drag between different struts,shafts, couplers etc ... you need an adapter to fit the prop shaft, alot of airplane props come with different sized hole inserts to fit multiple shafts...as Mark stated a 4.7 x 4.7 would be a really good starting point....a inline voltmeter thats been shunted to do up too 300amps and you got the ultimate test stand.... DJ

[jkr]

I want to see if the motor or batteries are bad don't want to run the motor without a load I am going to use a airplane prop for the load and some cooling !

Ok.

[785boats]

Chris.
Here's my old set up for testing motors, batteries, ESC's etc. A bit industrial perhaps, but with the watt meter logging all the Volts, Amps, Mah used, watts, peak power etc, its very useful. Plus you can watch the numbers change in real time while you are testing. Great for discharging packs too.
Like DJ said, all you need is the airplane prop adaptor on the motor.

[dasboata]

Chris the prop really depends on the motor and kv. You will have to have an amp meter and test with different props. My motor was a Hacker outrunner that could swing a 12" prop at 10s and a 16" prop on 6s. It all depends on your setup. These small boat motors I would start with a 4.7x 4.7 prop and see what you get. They make prop adapters for 5mm shaft so it's easy to mount an airplane prop on the motor. You might have to get an airplane motor mount or you could make your own out of aluminum.

Mark

My local Hobby shop gave me a 12 X 7 *!**I guess that's a poor start LOL, I never thought of mounting the prop directly to the motor *!**Hmm. I will make the prop adapter out of some alum. round stock I have . I built the test stand to test different motors and I kind of winged it as I went along but I see your point, I might just get a ducted fan unit to try as I have to build a shroud for my stand thanks Chris*!**

Chris, Ive done prototype RC plane design stuff for years...loads of testing..gas to electric, prop to ducted fan....no need for the strut and flexshat, unless your wanting to test those too...which would be a really nice feature to have, specially for us "SAW" guys..comparing load/drag between different struts,shafts, couplers etc ... you need an adapter to fit the prop shaft, alot of airplane props come with different sized hole inserts to fit multiple shafts...as Mark stated a 4.7 x 4.7 would be a really good starting point....a inline voltmeter thats been shunted to do up too 300amps and you got the ultimate test stand.... DJ

Going to get another meter as I sold the one I had they are cheap enough, I do have a clamp on DC amp meter but that would be to awkward I will also look into the ducted fan thanks Chris

[dasboata]

Chris.
Here's my old set up for testing motors, batteries, ESC's etc. A bit industrial perhaps, but with the watt meter logging all the Volts, Amps, Mah used, watts, peak power etc, its very useful. Plus you can watch the numbers change in real time while you are testing. Great for discharging packs too.
Like DJ said, all you need is the airplane prop adaptor on the motor.

If it works that's all that counts thank you Chris