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Thread: Castle hydra ice 200

  1. #1
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    Default Castle hydra ice 200

    Hi, I'm building a mhz c5000 114cm and have one castle hydra ice 200. My problem is that I need one more, does anyone know where to get one? I know castle don't make them anymore but I hope it's possible to get one somewhere :-)
    The boat is almost done with mbp stingers and battery mount, rudder from mhz. Motors are TP 4060 1800kv on 8s!
    If not today, maybe to morrow..
    HPR C5009 twin TP power 4082 2390kv 95mph, Sprit Cat 36 singel Proteus 65mph, Baby SV43 TP power 5850 920kv 12s 70mph

  2. #2
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    the original version is very hard to find.
    Last edited by revoltrunner; 08-04-2014 at 03:26 PM.

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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    No Hydras there Darin....


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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    No Hydras there Darin....


    .
    Oops... sorry... I only read the ICE part...

    ICE 200 is what I'd run anyhow... :)
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    It's kind of strange but we seem to be back to a situation where ESCs are hard to get again.. .at least quality big ones.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    It's kind of strange but we seem to be back to a situation where ESCs are hard to get again.. .at least quality big ones.
    Tell me about it. It's pretty disheartening to sat the least. Why....why in the heck would castle make a badass esc (hydra 240) and not waterproof it? It's even called a hydra (mean water I'm sure you all know that tho lol)...and then the big slap in the face....let's make the mamba monster 2 and sidewinder 3 esc's waterproof. .....but skip the esc's that REALLY need it? Doh castle!

    Then add to it (not bashing sf) I've been seeing all the swordfish esc's having all sorts of issues. There's a guy I know who got two bad ones at the same time. Man. ...I dunno what to do. I'm considering using a waterproofed mamba xl2 in my next bigger boat build. I'd have one in my rivercat but it won't fit (well it won't fit longways, sideways doesn't look right and gets in the way of batteries).
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

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    I agree that that a marine esc this expensive should be water proof..
    What is the way to water proof the hydra ice, open it and spray the electronic bords with plasti dip?
    If not today, maybe to morrow..
    HPR C5009 twin TP power 4082 2390kv 95mph, Sprit Cat 36 singel Proteus 65mph, Baby SV43 TP power 5850 920kv 12s 70mph

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomcandersen View Post
    I agree that that a marine esc this expensive should be water proof..
    What is the way to water proof the hydra ice, open it and spray the electronic bords with plasti dip?
    That's how I've been doing my electronics
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

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    The "water proofing" is really secondary to me. My boats don't get wet inside.

    Water-Cooling, on the other hand, is a nice option.

    Converting the ICE controllers is pretty easy (same with the EDGE controllers), but you have to be willing to void the warranty, etc. That's why I keep how I do mine to myself. It's not as simple as just sticking on some cooling plates, but it's not brain surgery either.

    I also do conformal coat them. Haven't had any issues as of yet, but then again, like I stated, I do whatever possible to keep things dry inside, and I always take precautions IF something gets wet to get it back into a dry condition again before attempting to use it.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  11. #11
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    Cool

    ...Why....why in the heck would castle make a badass esc (hydra 240) and not waterproof it? It's even called a hydra (mean water I'm sure you all know that tho lol)...and then the big slap in the face....let's make the mamba monster 2 and sidewinder 3 esc's waterproof. .....but skip the esc's that REALLY need it?
    This is a common complaint. Waterproofing marine ESCs is a problem, it isn't as simple as it seems. Schulze never waterproofed their 40-160W controller (it was "splash proof"), yet somehow plenty of boaters used it without problems. The biggest issue with waterproofing is heat, there is a huge difference between the heat generated in a car controller and a boat controller, regardless of the rated amperage. Encapsulate a controller in thick conformal epoxy and the heat is trapped within, so now you have a waterproof ESC which is more likely to burn up. To keep the costs down, most marine ESCs are just converted car or aircraft controllers anyway, the market is not big enough to support an affordable, completely waterproof high voltage controller. Heck, most boaters gripe about paying $200 for a HV controller. No ESC maker is going to invest the $$$ in a quality product only a handful of folks will buy.

    The real issue here is the fact that most folks don't know - or bother - to waterproof the BOAT. This seems pretty basic, but so many ignore it, and then complain when their radio , motor or controller stops working. Water and electronics simply don't mix well. Most of my boats seldom get more than a few drops of water in them after a high speed run, if they do I fix the leak. Some of my club members struggled with their boats' reliability, but they always seemed to have an ounce or two of water in the boat after each run. Once they decided to fix the leaks, most of their reliability problems went away. I have had boaters tell me it is not possible to keep water out of a boat - BS, I know better. I have coached club members how to do it, it is clearly not impossible. Any boater who accepts a lot of water in their boat after a run will eventually have trouble. Note that experienced racers' boats are dry after a heat, they know the problem and address it. Waterproofing electronics should be needed only when the boat's hull is breached in a crash, etc. CorrosionX handles that function just fine.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    The real issue here is the fact that most folks don't know - or bother - to waterproof the BOAT. This seems pretty basic, but so many ignore it, and then complain when their radio , motor or controller stops working. Water and electronics simply don't mix well. Most of my boats seldom get more than a few drops of water in them after a high speed run, if they do I fix the leak. Some of my club members struggled with their boats' reliability, but they always seemed to have an ounce or two of water in the boat after each run. Once they decided to fix the leaks, most of their reliability problems went away. I have had boaters tell me it is not possible to keep water out of a boat - BS, I know better. I have coached club members how to do it, it is clearly not impossible. Any boater who accepts a lot of water in their boat after a run will eventually have trouble. Note that experienced racers' boats are dry after a heat, they know the problem and address it. Waterproofing electronics should be needed only when the boat's hull is breached in a crash, etc. CorrosionX handles that function just fine.
    .
    The only time I have water inside the boat, is after I bust open the hull at 90+mph....
    "There's nothing else I really want to do other than get up and build boats." - Mike Fiore

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    Google it Not that hard to find. I think kintec may even have them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomcandersen View Post
    Hi, I'm building a mhz c5000 114cm and have one castle hydra ice 200. My problem is that I need one more, does anyone know where to get one? I know castle don't make them anymore but I hope it's possible to get one somewhere :-)
    The boat is almost done with mbp stingers and battery mount, rudder from mhz. Motors are TP 4060 1800kv on 8s!
    You can get them at www.gravesrc.com

  15. #15

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    I agree with Fluid, let the esc have the opportunety to breath and seal the boat properly.
    MGM can make their esc 100% waterproof, but, they don`t recomend it at all. Besides the fact that heat is being built up it is impossible to do repairs afterwards.
    It is not hard to get high qualety esc since MGM is still making controllers. Of course you have to pay the price, but that is just fair as you don`t get high qualety for glossy pictures and buttons....
    Joern Markset

    Fokus Racing

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    Ofcourse it's best that the boat is totally waterproof, but at high speed things happens ;-) I always built them waterproof but like to be 100% safe so maybe I will give them some plasti dip.

    Thanks for all answers, I orded one from finedesignrc..
    If not today, maybe to morrow..
    HPR C5009 twin TP power 4082 2390kv 95mph, Sprit Cat 36 singel Proteus 65mph, Baby SV43 TP power 5850 920kv 12s 70mph

  17. #17
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    Fine Design! I hope you don't need it this year.
    Quote Originally Posted by Tomcandersen View Post
    Ofcourse it's best that the boat is totally waterproof, but at high speed things happens ;-) I always built them waterproof but like to be 100% safe so maybe I will give them some plasti dip.

    Thanks for all answers, I orded one from finedesignrc..

  18. #18
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    Okey, what do you mean by that?
    I got the tip earlier in this tread but I can no see that it has been deleted.. :-(
    If not today, maybe to morrow..
    HPR C5009 twin TP power 4082 2390kv 95mph, Sprit Cat 36 singel Proteus 65mph, Baby SV43 TP power 5850 920kv 12s 70mph

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluid View Post
    The real issue here is the fact that most folks don't know - or bother - to waterproof the BOAT. This seems pretty basic, but so many ignore it, and then complain when their radio , motor or controller stops working. Water and electronics simply don't mix well. .
    I wish there was a way to pin this part of Jay's post in HUGE FLASHING LETTERS!!! Failure to PROTECT electronic components has plagued the r/c boating end of the hobby for as long as I can remember. Sometimes people just don't know or they're new and/or because someone who was too lazy to do it right was their only example they follow suit. I've seen this in nitro and gas boats just as much if not more, DO IT RIGHT and you won't need to worry about conformal epoxies, plasti-dip and the other crazy shiznit I've seen people try to do to "waterproof" electronics.
    Futaba Team Driver
    - IMPBA Hydro Technical Director -

  20. #20
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    Well,some people had negative experiences with FineDesign RC, I will not go into any details since that is not the point here. IMPORTANT THING FOR YOU NOW IS TO KEEP TRACK ON YOUR ORDER AND MAY GIVE CHRIS A CALL. IF YOU DO NOT RECEIVE YOUR ORDER IN DUE TIME, HAVE A PLAN ¨B¨SO YOU WILL PROCEED AND NOT GET OVERWHELMINGLY UPSET.
    People have different sets of standard for business practice, OSE is absolutely out of this world, it is easy to get frustrated if one is used to the wonderful dealings with OSE here.
    Having said that, I have had good experience with Fine DesignRC when I started FE hobby, but I have not ordered from them in 3 years.
    I am trying to be as polite as possible so you will read this before it is deleted.
    Too many boats, not enough time...

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    Quote Originally Posted by don ferrette View Post
    I wish there was a way to pin this part of Jay's post in HUGE FLASHING LETTERS!!! Failure to PROTECT electronic components has plagued the r/c boating end of the hobby for as long as I can remember. Sometimes people just don't know or they're new and/or because someone who was too lazy to do it right was their only example they follow suit. I've seen this in nitro and gas boats just as much if not more, DO IT RIGHT and you won't need to worry about conformal epoxies, plasti-dip and the other crazy shiznit I've seen people try to do to "waterproof" electronics.
    But that one time you get a little water in the hull and you made no precautions. ....oops....Magic smoke comes out! I'm sorry but you could be the absolute best at keeping water out your boat but you hit a turtle or something, water is coming in. The hull may be no more good but the electronics will be. I guess that's just my belief, rather safe than sorry.
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

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    Thanks tlandauer..!!
    If not today, maybe to morrow..
    HPR C5009 twin TP power 4082 2390kv 95mph, Sprit Cat 36 singel Proteus 65mph, Baby SV43 TP power 5850 920kv 12s 70mph

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    Quote Originally Posted by kfxguy View Post
    But that one time you get a little water in the hull and you made no precautions. ....oops....Magic smoke comes out! I'm sorry but you could be the absolute best at keeping water out your boat but you hit a turtle or something, water is coming in. The hull may be no more good but the electronics will be. I guess that's just my belief, rather safe than sorry.
    The vast majority of problems don't come from initially getting the electronics wet rather from trying to run them again before being thoroughly dried out. Using your "turtle theory" if you've hit something hard enough to split open a PROPERLY PROTECTED interior area that boat is done for the day (if not for good) anyways. I trashed a SAW rigger during a pass and everything inside got totally soaked. Components were removed, sprayed thoroughly with WD40, then denatured alcohol and allowed to completely dry. I still run that same gear over 2 years later..........
    Futaba Team Driver
    - IMPBA Hydro Technical Director -

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    6 days from payment to shipping... This is not offshoreelectrics style but I guess okey.
    If not today, maybe to morrow..
    HPR C5009 twin TP power 4082 2390kv 95mph, Sprit Cat 36 singel Proteus 65mph, Baby SV43 TP power 5850 920kv 12s 70mph

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomcandersen View Post
    6 days from payment to shipping... This is not offshoreelectrics style but I guess okey.
    I am very glad... for you and for FD, as I don't like to see anybody get bashed---although he might have deserved some of that!
    Too many boats, not enough time...

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    From rookie mistakes to running on the edge with high power set ups, I have had my fair share of blown motors escs, reverse polarity among many other bone head mistakes. I think the following may be good analogy. ever had a go cart growing up? Most sport Rc boats are like go carts. They break all the damn time. Hours of work for minutes of enjoyment. Like the relatively inexpensive parts on go carts boat parts could be made better. Waterproof escs, bullet proof motors, servos that never fail etc... Having said that, both go carts and Rc boats represent a small market where the masses would not pay for that kind of reliability. The few manufacturers that offer serious high end hardware for example are insanely expensive. I had a point here. What was it? Oh, you just break a tom of *!***!***!***!** Rc boating. I don't care what anyone says. From rookies to experts we all break stuff. We all make mistakes and we all have to deal with equipment that is sub par. It is what it is!!

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    Got the esc today and they have send me a used controller!! The coling lines are bent, wires have been cut and the box say that is a 240a and has been opend!! Full price for a used controller!!
    If not today, maybe to morrow..
    HPR C5009 twin TP power 4082 2390kv 95mph, Sprit Cat 36 singel Proteus 65mph, Baby SV43 TP power 5850 920kv 12s 70mph

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    Had a look at the log and it has been used several times. 17 minutes run time stored in the log... Don't like this at all..
    Last edited by Tomcandersen; 07-31-2014 at 01:56 PM.
    If not today, maybe to morrow..
    HPR C5009 twin TP power 4082 2390kv 95mph, Sprit Cat 36 singel Proteus 65mph, Baby SV43 TP power 5850 920kv 12s 70mph

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