Accidently hooked +~ up backwards oneday.
Accidently hooked +~ up backwards oneday.
Your setup is defective because you are running inferior batteries with not enough capacity to supply the load and you are running them down too far. ESC temps are not over the top, and there's no way the ESC can generate heat in the batteries.
The rest of us have already come to terms with the fact that LVC in high draw boats is basically useless to protect batteries, ESPECIALLY if your cells aren't perfectly matched, it's just the way it is. But FWIW, because the max lvc on the SF is 3.3v, I set mine for a cell count of 1 higher than I have and adjust the lvc accordingly, for example my 10s boat is set at 11s/3.1v which is basically the same as 3.4v/cell, but if I run it down to lvc I expect a pack to be compromised, so I time the runs and stop before. You can set it to 7s/3v and it would cut out sooner. The thing with Seaking's is that the LVC is known to cut out prematurely, almost NONE of us use it, this is widely known but that was your saving grace with the old setup, now the LVC is cutting out where it is supposed to, which is way too low, and your packs are being damaged.
My private off road rc track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8
Hooked up +~ up backwards oneday
The difference between controllers is that the SF200 Pro MIGHT be more up for racing than the T180 is. They program differently, they don't use the same timing numbers, many differences. What I'm saying is that the T180 may have a design that makes it a little more goof proof if a setup is too hot, where the SF may be for those that don't do long runs on 1P setups.
Change back maybe your problem will go away? Maybe a bad solder connection? What 8mm connectors? I tried the Hobby King 8mm connectors and I threw them out they were crap. I use 5.5mm on my batts but, I run 2P setups on hot or "open" classes of racing. All an 8mm connector will do more than a decent 5.5mm is dissipate heat quicker. BTW, I only use Hobby King 5.5mm connectors, part# AM-1005 and XT-150 for motor connections.The only difference is i was using 5.5 bullets last year now using 8mm
The T180 might have programming that is more forgiving with 1P setups than the SF200, maybe but, I'd say there are problems with your cells.
You said you are running at 12 degrees timing, back it off to 10 degrees. Even though it's a Y wind, a 1600kv setup on 6S1P can be hard on the controller.
Just because we haven't gotten to the bottom of your problem doesn't mean you haven't missed something.
At the Nat's I ran my last run on Q-sport hydro (with a SF240 BTW) I did not notice even after re-greasing that I had severly crushed my stuffing tube causing a TON of binding in the driveline and I might have hurt the motor slightly. When I go back out, this time with my SF200 back in with extra cooling, I'll let you know how it goes. I got it as hot or hotter than 175F on one run and it still is ticking away on the bench. I'll let you know how it goes on my next test run and if it's all good it goes to the NLMBC PAN AM in 2 weeks. I was told by TP Power that my motor prefers 10* timing being a Y wind like yours. Maybe send Leopard an email them and ask what they say is the best timing for your motor?
Lastly, join the 2P club just for a try, you'll not look back. You can run 1P if you like but, at some point you may start having problems with cells that may not be up to par.
Nortavlag Bulc
Like Ray said, I was thinking something similar. Has it occurred to you that the 180 was limiting the power that the motor could draw, and the more robust controller is allowing more power to the motor, hence a heavier load on the packs?
My private off road rc track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8
BTW, I blew up a set of 35-70C cells, all 6S2P in my Q-mono on the first race it saw, why? Cells were not up to par and LVC was set too low. I was running a HK240 aka SF240 and it did survive the blast but, next season I run in another race but, with Dinogy cells, then the ESC gave up the smoke in Michigan last year.... nasty. I severely hurt the esc but, never knew until I put decent cells on it after the bad cells did the esc part way.
I've been doing this for a while and even I make mistakes, first poor cells, nano-tech none the less... Then a partly toasted esc and an untested setup... not even a hot setup, 1200kv on 6S2P... Oh well. There is a new SF240 (bought used on OSE) in there and it runs my mono & Q-sport just great, wish Steve had more in stock...
Nortavlag Bulc
I've done that too.... Just a couple weeks ago. Those packs will never get run again. It seems this happens more often when hooking up setups in series that are only 1P as my cells were meant for a spec setup. If you run 1P run one pack. If it's not enough Mah, run a pair in Parallel.
Nortavlag Bulc
Setup is not untested i ran it a good 70 times with the seaking props from x442 up to a x450 no issues at all with heat. I had brand new batts 2 sets with a brand new swordfish i have ran it 5 times and it ruined 2 batterys because they are discharging unevenly. Seaking discharged evenly everytime and lvc worked. I expected same with swordfish. Its kind of like selling a car with no gas guage in my opinion... Not what i wanted i enjoyed my seaking and wish i bought anotherone what is there to argue about. Even the water cooling lines in swordfish look cheap theres not much heat transfer there
You are NOT getting it, are you? The ESC is not what is drawing the current from your packs.
No he is not getting it. He is a sport runner with high KV setup on 1P and the T180 is goof proofed.
Nortavlag Bulc
could we get a wattage rating off the logger so we could better know what amps your trying to pull from these packs? May help settle a few unknows
I can send it to a email to some one if they want to upload it. So you guys are saying the 180 governed the power?
Sf escs are awesome. Ive pulled 15000 watts through a sf300 have owned a lot of them. The smaller ones are awesome too. Owned a sf240 sold to members on here sounds like theyre working for them too.
Should batts be draining equal?
With equal charge. And if 180 is governed why is it not faster now?
If one battery is fine and the other over drained perhaps a bad solder joint in the parallel connectors. Just a suggestion BTW as to why there are problems with one ESC and not anther.
All joints are good ill take some photos later and post them
image.jpgAll joints are good ill take some photos later and post them
I was just wondering the graph shows min voltage of 16.4 would that not cause a problem with the packs resulting in puffing.
:canada
Am I reading the run time right 298 seconds?
Yes but i think it keeps loging when i take it out of water till batt is dusconnected
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