Swordfish 200a swelling batts and running hot. Leopard4084 x445 2 3s packs. My seaking 180 never did this. Anyone having same issue. Boat is a genesis
Swordfish 200a swelling batts and running hot. Leopard4084 x445 2 3s packs. My seaking 180 never did this. Anyone having same issue. Boat is a genesis
what batteries are you using? I dont exactly care for sf esc's but there not a whole lot of affordable choices out there. seems lately they are hit and miss.
32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was
FYI, when your batteries puff, it is usually because you drained them down too far, and it doesn't typically puff until a few cycles later. The damage to the batteries likely happened well before they started showing it. I really doubt it's the ESC causing it, you most likely ran them a bit too long a few runs before, and this set of packs is probably past the point of no return. A pair of 3s/5000mah packs is working pretty hard to supply a 1600kv 4082, you prob wouldn't get much more than 3 min without running them too low. I have a couple SF ESC's, some I have had a few problems with, some have been great all along. When I did have problems, the owner of OSE was very helpful, but I have also sent them in directly so as not to bother him.
Considering that you just dragged up(spammed) 3 other threads in less than 10 min to post that SF ESC's "are crap" and complaining that the owner of OSE won't help you, then started this thread to say the same, when it is perfectly likely the ESC didn't cause the problem in the first place, I wouldn't blame anyone for not jumping to help you anyway. In the few years I've been doing this, and the several years of threads I have read through, I have not come across on incident where an ESC caused batteries to puff. Once in a great while it's a quality issue/bad cell, but prob 95% of the time it's because they were run too hard for too long.
Last edited by kevinpratt823; 07-14-2014 at 04:06 PM.
My private off road rc track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8
I was able to get a 3rd place in Q-Sport Hydro running this esc in the 1st 2 heats. The second 2 heats I switched out to a SF240 that could take the heat better.
Nortavlag Bulc
Before bashing Swordfish in every thread, maybe get to the bottom of your problem. It sounds like your having other issues.
A few fast boats with Swordfish controllers...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8V81KyhVkA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBUAye2BAr4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5awbTx6og7Y
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fk9wFhv8sDw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpZI97iCDO0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSMTaXElV4o
"There's nothing else I really want to do other than get up and build boats." - Mike Fiore
Turnigy 2 3s 5000 mah 65- brand new out of the box. Also two brand new atomic 5000 35c those will swell a bit sometimes 8 mm bullets 3.3 lvc. Batteries will drain uneven also. Ran boat all last year no issues at all. The past two weeks smoked a 240a swordfish thats in china now and something is up with the 200A.
Im thinking its a resistance problem creating the heat. I have the data logger for it i dont know how to post a picture but can send it in a email if someone else wants to. Even with a x442 it will do the same. Motors cool. Esc says 70-80cel. Batteries are smoking. Timing is at 12*
A motor that is going bad will take out an ESC. Possible something is up with your Leopard.
"There's nothing else I really want to do other than get up and build boats." - Mike Fiore
Many say that Turnigy is crap. They are hit or miss, as in some work great out of the box but there is a high rate of failure/bad cells also. The a tomics are just plain rated too low. If you're running a 6s1p setup with that motor you really need higher c rayed packs if you expect them to last, 3-5can@5000man is only 175 amps, and you are likely pulling that. Considering most c ratings are bogus and overrated you're not really within the limits so I would expect those packs to fail. Batteries draining uneven has absolutely nothing to do with an esc, it is a problem with the packs, connections, or perhaps the motor as Rocstar said.
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My private off road rc track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8
So you've smoked one controller and "something" is up with the other.... and your packs are swelling? Just the Atomic packs or the Turnigy ones as well? What's your motor KV BTW?
"There's nothing else I really want to do other than get up and build boats." - Mike Fiore
It seems like one batt will be 9.xx volt and another will be like 11. I pull it in when it hits lvc. Lvc set to highest 3.3v. Its a 1600 kv motor. Motor spins like always by hand stops pretty well at each pole
But my seaking 180 ran flawless. Guys last time i checked i live in america if i want to say some chinese trash is junk i will. Im helping other suckers avoid my problems. The only difference is i was using 5.5 bullets last year now using 8mm
No binding in drive. Greesed everytime.
Most experienced boaters would tell you not to run to LVC, and by experienced I mean those of us who have learned by ruining many batteries lol. You really need to time your runs, and stop before they get that low. The voltage comes back up when they rest for a bit, and the esc only knows the total voltage, so if one pack is dropping quicker, it goes well below the lvc/cell setting because the other is fooling the controller. Also, consider that the C rating really only applies IMO to fully charged packs, if you try to pull that kind of current from a pack that's getting close to 3.3, it is heavily stressed. If one of the 2 packs is compromised, the other will fail soon as well, because it's trying to pick up all the slack.
My private off road rc track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8
Turnigy packs are just fine i agree atomics are not the best
I agree but the seaking would drain equal everytime. Always used lvc i have to bring the swordfish in before lvc hits
Im not trying to start battles im trying to get my boat out and get some experience.
We've already told you, many people use these with good results, so you are also swaying people from using potentially successful setups based on a presumption that your experience is the end all be all, not to mention on a forum that was started and is run by somebody who sells these products. The way you went about it is less than tactful, especially when the problem is not likely the ESC at all. It is America, and this forum is a privilege, not a right. Speak your mind and share your experience, by all means, but you might want to be a little more tactful before you go ranting on 4 threads if you want to stay on here.
My private off road rc track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8
Different ESC's LVC is calibrated differently, some are more accurate than others, regaurdless, not many successful boaters are running them down to cut off.
My private off road rc track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8
Are the individual voltages of each cell closely matched after a run? Do they take a long time to charge and balance?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
My private off road rc track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8
Charge fine should drain the same. When i buy a product and say its defaulty and the owner says too bad thats a issue. Turnigys swell as well. Ill post the logger later. And im giving advice thats what the fourm is for buy a seaking 180. From experience
Individual voltages are not the same. Packs are not even close after a run.
So now what do i do buy another 180 and kiss the money i spent goodbye? Or is there a return policy on defective units
Batteries puffin has absolutely NOTHING to do with your esc. Tell me how the esc is defective. Sounds more like you setup is defective. And/ or your batteries are junk. This is like blaming paper because you keep breaking your pencil lead.
"I'm a professional"
It's sounds like you are beating your batteries to death. You shouldn't use more that 80% of their capacity during a run. Every time you knock the bottom out of them the cells degrade. The IR rises and the capacity is reduced.
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I think you're missing the point. From everything you have described, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the ESC, it is not defective. Just because they charge fine at 5-20 amps, that by no means says they will drain the same at 180 amps. Your Atomics were just not up to the task. If your charger can read IR(internal resistance), you will likely find the Turnigy cells that are far off have IR #'s that are also off. Ideally they should be well below 5 for new packs, my Dinogy packs usually start off below 2. Quality packs have cells that are closely matched in IR, that is basically what dictates how fast they drain. Cheaper packs are not as closely matched, if they even make an effort to match them, on top of that, the IR changes slightly during the first few cycles as it "breaks in". Your ESC is not capable of draining individual cells more than others, and like I said, if llvc is set at 3.3v, and the cells aren't matched, that means some cells are going far below 3.3v. Once you compromise the packs, weather you brought them down too far, or they were just inferior cells with poor matching, they will continue to get worse. Once you puff a pack, even if the swelling goes down, it will likely continue to get worse. I ran a Genesis and a DF explorer, with the exact setup you describe with the 180, and I puffed a couple pairs of 3s, there just isn't enough there to run for more than a couple minutes. I got a Castle 240, and went to a 6s2p setup and it was far more reliable. What kind of current readings were you topping out with on the logging? How many Mah went back into the packs? The bottom line is that the ESC/motor is only a load to the combined cells, unless the data logging shows something abnormal then what those cells do while trying to feed the load has absolutely nothing to do with the ESC.
Trust me, I've had my problems with a couple Swordfish's, but I have come to accept a certain inconsistency with most of these Chinese products. Just like the Turnigy packs, some fail early on possibly from poor quality control, and some perform great for a long period, but nothing you're saying points to the ESC.
My private off road rc track
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC3H...yaNZNA&index=8
Please tell me how set up is defective. One esc runs fine one generates a bunch of heat please tell me how that is excusable? Setup is all new pretty much. I could rven run a x447 blade with the seaking. But wait...its not the swordfish right? Whats the point of having lvc if its not going to work. Lvc worked fine on seaking. Im stating facts you can say im wrong or your a expert but that will not change facts
So what ever happened to your Seaking that you switched over to Swordfish??
Mike Chirillo
www.capitolrcmodelboats.com
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