If you have differently machined collets (not couplers), then the placement is determined by the set up. it is not necessarily an universal set up as you described.
Where ever your CCW prop is, use the normal-everyday collet on that one. If you are indeed using a REVERSED TFL stainless .187 collet
( 5TH ITEM DOWN THE PAGE
http://www.kintecracing.com/Collets_Couplers.html), then that should go on the CW ( right hand ) prop.
As from the other thread where a few people have helpfully pointed out ( Keithbradley in particular), you need to try out both ways to see which is better for your hull.
I have also posted for another member regarding your question, the rotational mass is not big enough for the CW (RH) prop to loosen the left hand collet.
It is important that you use a little bit of anti-seize compound on the threads and underside of your collet nut and outside of the prongs. Every auto store sells them:
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...bricant-detail
Do not use too much and do not get inside the prongs where it needs friction to grab the flex cable!
This is a trick I learned years ago from Fluid, it is a trick I have tirelessly passed on to other people, the anti-seize compound prevents metal-to-metal galling and it permits you to tighten the collet with ease and further down without breaking the thing. You should have no problem with a LH collet on a CW (RH) prop.
Good tools are not cheap, but they really allow you to do the right job, I have a set of Wiha socket wrench:
http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26590-Dri.../dp/B000PDOIT6 There are others but I find the slim profile of these really is helpful to get to that particular nut that you need to tighten up inside the hull on the transom.
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