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Thread: Left-right couplers

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    638

    Default Left-right couplers

    Hi on a twin it seems the left hand thread coupler should be on the port side and the right hand on the other,with the props turning into each other,that way the coupler tightens into the nut as the motor spins ,yes?if so mine are backwards ,on anouther twin both are right hand ,haven't ran it yet,how important is a left hand coupler,? Need some expert advise please,also is there a tool to tighten the ring nut that keeps the stinger in the housing? Help please thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    5,666

    Default

    If you have differently machined collets (not couplers), then the placement is determined by the set up. it is not necessarily an universal set up as you described.
    Where ever your CCW prop is, use the normal-everyday collet on that one. If you are indeed using a REVERSED TFL stainless .187 collet
    ( 5TH ITEM DOWN THE PAGE http://www.kintecracing.com/Collets_Couplers.html), then that should go on the CW ( right hand ) prop.
    As from the other thread where a few people have helpfully pointed out ( Keithbradley in particular), you need to try out both ways to see which is better for your hull.
    I have also posted for another member regarding your question, the rotational mass is not big enough for the CW (RH) prop to loosen the left hand collet.
    It is important that you use a little bit of anti-seize compound on the threads and underside of your collet nut and outside of the prongs. Every auto store sells them:http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...bricant-detail
    Do not use too much and do not get inside the prongs where it needs friction to grab the flex cable!
    This is a trick I learned years ago from Fluid, it is a trick I have tirelessly passed on to other people, the anti-seize compound prevents metal-to-metal galling and it permits you to tighten the collet with ease and further down without breaking the thing. You should have no problem with a LH collet on a CW (RH) prop.
    Good tools are not cheap, but they really allow you to do the right job, I have a set of Wiha socket wrench:
    http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26590-Dri.../dp/B000PDOIT6 There are others but I find the slim profile of these really is helpful to get to that particular nut that you need to tighten up inside the hull on the transom.
    Too many boats, not enough time...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    638

    Default

    Wow that's a ton of great info thank you ,I'll apply it ,

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    mi
    Posts
    774

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tlandauer View Post
    If you have differently machined collets (not couplers), then the placement is determined by the set up. it is not necessarily an universal set up as you described.
    Where ever your CCW prop is, use the normal-everyday collet on that one. If you are indeed using a REVERSED TFL stainless .187 collet
    ( 5TH ITEM DOWN THE PAGE http://www.kintecracing.com/Collets_Couplers.html), then that should go on the CW ( right hand ) prop.
    As from the other thread where a few people have helpfully pointed out ( Keithbradley in particular), you need to try out both ways to see which is better for your hull.
    I have also posted for another member regarding your question, the rotational mass is not big enough for the CW (RH) prop to loosen the left hand collet.
    It is important that you use a little bit of anti-seize compound on the threads and underside of your collet nut and outside of the prongs. Every auto store sells them:http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...bricant-detail
    Do not use too much and do not get inside the prongs where it needs friction to grab the flex cable!
    This is a trick I learned years ago from Fluid, it is a trick I have tirelessly passed on to other people, the anti-seize compound prevents metal-to-metal galling and it permits you to tighten the collet with ease and further down without breaking the thing. You should have no problem with a LH collet on a CW (RH) prop.
    Good tools are not cheap, but they really allow you to do the right job, I have a set of Wiha socket wrench:
    http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26590-Dri.../dp/B000PDOIT6 There are others but I find the slim profile of these really is helpful to get to that particular nut that you need to tighten up inside the hull on the transom.
    Thank you again, I use anti seize lube on all my boats .

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    5,666

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MG1234 View Post
    Wow that's a ton of great info thank you ,I'll apply it ,
    Quote Originally Posted by montymike View Post
    Thank you again, I use anti seize lube on all my boats .
    You are welcome! Just passing along what I have learned from other people.....

    Too many boats, not enough time...

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