Swordfish Pro+ 220 Running Hot

[rickwess]

Boat: Insane Mono 34
Motor: TP4060 2040kv (5D)
Battery: 4s2p (Thunder Power 5000mah 70C)
Prop: x447/3

ESC Settings: 2014-06-01 09_31_52-Untitled - Hifei.jpg

I've been having some NOOB issues dialing in the boat, but I think I have it right now. Just a little chine walk but I can now run the boat WOT now without fear.......kinda.

The ESC is running VERY HOT. So hot that the heat shrink on the motor wires is softening and can be moved around. All 3 wires. That in itself tells me its a current problem. The batteries and motor are fine temp wise. When I tried to pull the data log it failed and the Hifei program closed. I pulled off the heat shrink and all looks fine. I'm out of heat shrink at the cottage so I might just tape it up with electrical tape to see if I can run it for a minute and pull a log.

Important Note: This ESC was submerged when powered early in it's life. On one of the first runs, the boat had flip that peeled a strip of the hatch tape off. By the time I got to the boat it was bobbing vertical in the water. It sat burried in rice for a week and it seems to work OK except for the excessive heat.

Any thoughts and advice would be appreciated.

[oscarel]

What does intake on rudder look like?
Should look like this http://manuals.hobbico.com/aqu/aqub24-25-tech.pdf to allow ample water flow.
Edit: never mind, looks like you have it right. Saw your thread in the boat building section.


I'm in the process of setting up same boat/motor combo but will use a different controller.

[rickwess]

Yes, it's a Speedmaster with dual pickups. Lots of water flow.

I think it's excess current related. I'm going to prop down and hopefully be able to pull a log this time.

[Jareth]

I think that's the problem too prop i down try an 2 blade prop the x445/2 or the x442/2

[tlandauer]

How hot actually is the ESC itself? Judging the temp on the wires alone tells half the story: it can be a soldering problem, it can be that your connectors are not up to their task, what size do you use?
I have had hot motor wires but the ESC itself was not over heating, just saying...
BTW, I ran mine with X447/3 w/o issue, 4s2p , Castle-Neu 1515 1y 2200kv. Dinogy 5000mah 65c and 6500mah 65c , all 4s packs. ESC is CC Hydra Ice 240.

[rickwess]

They are 6.5mm. The whole ESC is hot.........caps, body, wires.

Going out now to run it with a m445 and hopefully be able to pull data afterwards.

[rickwess]

Ran it for 1 min on a m445 and brought it to check temps. It was cool. Ran it for another 2 minutes and it just stopped out in the middle of the lake. I suspect thermal shutdown, but I can't pull the data log.

I get the following error on a Windows 8.1 OS:

2014-06-01 14_17_03-Microsoft Visual C++ Runtime Library.jpg

Edit: I just found out that you can't install the HeFei SW in the default directory. I installed it to my RC folder and it works OK now.

[rickwess]

Here's the logs from the last run. It's running hot (75C = 167F), but the current looks OK.

2014-06-01 14_32_09-2014-6-1_1.dat - Hifei.jpg

2014-06-01 14_37_10-2014-6-1_1.dat - Hifei.jpg


I can only conclude that a) I don't have enough water flow or b) it was damaged in some way when it was submerged.

When I blow compressed air into each of the water pick-ups it shoots whatever water is in the system out quite forcefully. When it's in the water, how hard should the water stream be?

Edit: There's something about the temperature curve that is bugging me. The temp drops 30C in about 10secs at one point. The throttle position was low, so I assume that was when I was bringing it in to check the temps.

2014-06-01 15_07_10-2014-6-1_1.dat - Hifei.jpg

[oscarel]

That's the reason I was asking about the intakes on the rudder. Make sure the slits go all the way to the end of the rudder. I have to tywrap my water lines on so they don't get blown off on a few boats.

[rickwess]

I'm not sure I can improve on this though.

2014-06-01 17_46_13-DSC_0148 - Windows Photo Viewer.jpg

They are low enough in the water and the leading edge is lined up with the leading edge of the drive dog.

[Jareth]

Use one of the inlets for your esc and the other for the motor

[rickwess]

Use one of the inlets for your esc and the other for the motor

Both are being used.

[Fella1340]

I wonder if switching the lines around so the esc is being cooled from the other inlet might help, atleast it might rule out water flow to the esc. Just a thought

[Jareth]

But use one of the inlet to cool the esc and the other inlet to cool the motor

[Jareth]

Can you send a pic of the inside of the boat please

[rickwess]

But use one of the inlet to cool the esc and the other inlet to cool the motor

I'm not sure there is another way to do it than that. The motor and the ESC cooling loops are separate.

2014-06-01 19_00_49-DSC_0149 - Windows Photo Viewer.jpg

[oscarel]

Mine look like this. Not saying it's going to solve your issue but it will give a more cooling.

20140601_175915.jpg

[rickwess]

I wonder if switching the lines around so the esc is being cooled from the other inlet might help, at least it might rule out water flow to the esc. Just a thought

Yep.

There has to be something basic that I'm missing. It makes no sense that the motor stays cool as ice yet the ESC is reaching 160F. I need to invent one of those ear-muff attachments (what I use to run my RFL otuboard out of the water) for the rudder to do a test of water flow.

[oscarel]

Yep.

There has to be something basic that I'm missing. It makes no sense that the motor stays cool as ice yet the ESC is reaching 160F. I need to invent one of those ear-muff attachments (what I use to run my RFL otuboard out of the water) for the rudder to do a test of water flow.

Get something like this or a dubro fuel pump.

Is the esc hooked up to the bottom pickup?

[rickwess]

Get something like this or a dubro fuel pump.

Is the esc hooked up to the bottom pickup?

I want to run the water into the rudder pick-ups, not the water line.

Yes the ESC is on the bottom pick-up.

[oscarel]

I want to run the water into the rudder pick-ups, not the water line.

Yes the ESC is on the bottom pick-up.

Run it the opposite direction, you'll be able to see what's coming out and that would be about what's going in. I also do this to make sure the seals around the motor are working and there's no leaks in the lines.

[TristanJones]

If you have 2200kv 4s m445 prop that looks like a normal log to me.

This one pictured here is TP4050 2200kv m445 in my FE30 hydro.

Entropy first full run_2014_3_24_1.jpg

[TristanJones]

Above pic was a small lake though always on the turn fin so current draw was high.

[rickwess]

If you have 2200kv 4s m445 prop that looks like a normal log to me.

This one pictured here is TP4050 2200kv m445 in my FE30 hydro.

Entropy first full run_2014_3_24_1.jpg

Thanks. It's good to have a direct comparison. You're running even hotter. Isn't 88C too hot?

[TristanJones]

That's peak temp. If you take a look, it's risen to that over time. My boats run 2mins max. As you can see I try to stay on the throttle lol

[TristanJones]

Also look at the average current draw between your log and mine.
Make sure your water lines are all free flowing. Check motor jacket for flow sometimes there can be an issue there. It's hot but it's a race set up. It will be by the end of a run

[rickwess]

That's peak temp. If you take a look, it's risen to that over time. My boats run 2mins max. As you can see I try to stay on the throttle lol

Your FE30 temp curve looks identical to my FE30 temp curve. My Mono curve on the other hand just looks strange.

If I was reading 88C with my temp gun I would be worried, but as noted in the other thread, there was a big difference between what I was measuring and what the data log was saying. I'm just learning how to interpret the data logs so I'm learning the difference is to be expected.

[T.S.Davis]

In case we missed it. What's your timing set to?

[rickwess]

0* on the D winding (mono) and 10* on the Y winding (hydro). This thread is really about the heat with the mono. Tristan posted his hydro logs here in what I think was a response to my hydro logs in a different thread.

The weekend is over so I've lost access to water for 2 weeks now due to work.......damn.

On a little bit of a tangent, since I pulled the heat shrink off the Swordfish to check for issues, can I assume the existing caps are parallel? It looks like I could easily add 2 extra caps before I put it back together.

[TristanJones]

His timing is at zero. Which I thought odd. Hope it's not a Y wind.
Rickwess, If u have a Y wind motor u want 8-14 deg of timing.