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Thread: New owner, some questions on salt water use / after run / setup

  1. #31
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    To be clear: think of your ESC as a electrical gate; the on and off and partial throttle is making it working hard, the ripple current is the killer, that's why you see extra capacitiors on some ESC. People also install what they call 'cap bank" for this reason. So the only alternative way of gaining more run time is to get higher capacity batteries and running a smaller prop. Smaller prop usually is used when a slower speed is desired in testing rather than using part throttle.

  2. #32
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    To be clear: think of your ESC as a electrical gate; the on and off and partial throttle is making it working hard, the ripple current is the killer, that's why you see extra capacitiors on some ESC. People also install what they call 'cap bank" for this reason. So the only alternative way of gaining more run time is to get higher capacity batteries and running a smaller prop. Smaller prop usually is used when a slower speed is desired in testing rather than using part throttle.
    Very nice! I totally understand what your saying! Thank You! :-)

    Can I ask you..

    Which way do you personally think I should go with the drive shaft?

    a. the upgraded one with no liner. (0.187)
    b. the upgraded one with the liner. (0.150)

    What will give me the best results, and the most reliable boat / water tight / and logjevity?

  3. #33
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    To be honest, I don't know, because when I built mine without using the liner, the brass tube is 1/4'' , and it is K&S brand, it is Made In USA, very good tubing. On some Chinese made boats ( I don't mean PB at all but I don't want to point out which brand it is) the tube is metric sized and the wall is thinner, less quality. But I am sure PB is OK, since OSE is selling this up graded cable .
    Question is this: Have you already ordered the .150 one? If so, can you still change the order? If not, run the .150 first and once or twice removing the motor and pulling the liner won't kill you, ( forgive me, couldn't resist)
    If you have not ordered the .150, then by all means get the .187 from the get go.

  4. #34
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    tlandauer you are awesome......thanks for being sooooo helpful. Guys like you keep me coming back every day for more!
    Here's a product I use on my full size sailboats and stink-pots running in the Puget Sound (salt water):
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00144...&robot_redir=1
    It's an amazing product that extends the life of any watercraft running in salt water.
    A spray bottle mix of this stuff squirted over your boat and through your cooling system will wash the salt away post-haste! Follow up with a quick fresh rinse and you're golden!!
    I only run my SV27 in the salt so I will abstain from anything boat specific. But honestly, if you tape up well and keep the water intrusion into the hull to a minimum (none is best...of course:) you will have a lot of enjoyment!
    With the excellent advice you're getting here and your maintenance minded attitude you will have GREAT success!
    This is NOT a toy?!?

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by capnswanny View Post
    tlandauer you are awesome......thanks for being sooooo helpful. Guys like you keep me coming back every day for more!
    Here's a product I use on my full size sailboats and stink-pots running in the Puget Sound (salt water):
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00144...&robot_redir=1
    It's an amazing product that extends the life of any watercraft running in salt water.
    A spray bottle mix of this stuff squirted over your boat and through your cooling system will wash the salt away post-haste! Follow up with a quick fresh rinse and you're golden!!
    I only run my SV27 in the salt so I will abstain from anything boat specific. But honestly, if you tape up well and keep the water intrusion into the hull to a minimum (none is best...of course:) you will have a lot of enjoyment!
    With the excellent advice you're getting here and your maintenance minded attitude you will have GREAT success!
    Thank you sir for the compliment! I am merely passing on the limited knowledge I have to a newer member. I love this Forum and on days I am not working and RC boating or building, I enjoy going through this place!
    Thank you also for the link, I think I will get some, a friend of mine has a real luxury yacht, he had invited me to run some of my boats in the marina, so I think armed with this and your invaluable input as well as other people's feed back, I am ready to rock!

  6. #36
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    Just a thought today.. is it alright if I run the stock prop for some test runs? I'm not going to be able to sharpen or balance it.. as I just will order a new one that it's already done (although I see ALL of the OSE props that are pre balanced are out of stock?). Which.. BTW.. any thoughts on what that prop should be? Again, I will be running all stock gear on 4S.

    Thanks guys!

  7. #37
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    M445, http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=octsb-m445 , IMO
    Some of the K series non-metal props are good for testing. Doby here is extremely experienced and he uses them regularly for this purpose.
    42mm would be good to start:http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=grp-2317.42
    You may try the 45mm prop.
    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=grp-2317.45
    The newer CNC props are very good and gaining popularity, they are balanced, but a little blunt on the leading edge and shouldn't be too hard to sharpen.
    Anything between 42-45mm would work well on your boat. Always start on the smaller dia.
    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...+2+Blade+Props
    Yes, you can run the stock prop for testing.

  8. #38
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    Excellent. What size is the included stock prop?

    I just wanted to be sure that I will not damage the boat by running the stock prop, without balancing and sharpening?

    Is there any other place I can buy on pre balanced sharp etc.. online? OSE is all out of about everything it looks like :-(


    Chief, posted and sent me the info manual he has on the boat.. and I just noticed that he mentions a X642 prop..

    Whats the main difference with the M445 and the X642 etc.. Which one is best to use with my stock gear / connectors etc.. on 4S?


    EDIT - I wanted to ask about this video I saw.. Looking at this video, the water looked pretty calm? but, you can tell the performance of the boat was NOT GOOD! Even being new to boats, I can tell that. Lets say, that this is what I see when I have my first runs.. what are somethings that would have improved this persons run?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dbL1Q8diQU
    Last edited by Tharr62; 05-31-2014 at 08:12 PM.

  9. #39
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    You want the M445, not M455, may be it was just a typo.
    The X642 is also an excellent prop to have in your parts bin. It is a 42mm prop vs. the 45mm ( as with the M445), but with more pitch. For every 360* turn it will go 2.64 inch vs. the M445's 2.478 inches. Also the "X" prop is not de-tongued. It will load up a bit more than the de-tongued "M" series.
    On paper the X642 should have more speed, but in the real world it maybe different: depending on the hull and set up, the "M" series with its de-tongued feature allows the motor to "rev" freer, thus may be the opposite. But too large a prop in the diameter regard with mono boats can sometimes give chine walk. Ideally you need to have all these props to experiment.
    When I said load up more, it can be translated as more heat ( more amp draw) on your motor, ESC and battery. Note that if you are running stock, these variances may be small.
    You should do a search to understand props and also what is de-tongued. I will never be able to explain to you clearly in a post like this.

  10. #40
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    Here was an interesting discussion on the VERY prop that you have now from PB, the link:
    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...-prop-question
    Apparently he has a much better stock Proboat prop than I 've got. Go figure.....

  11. #41
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    So, basicly the M445 is a good choice, and won't stress out my ESC as much as the X642? Do you know of anywhere I can get one sharpened and balanced so I can use this out of the gate when I get the darn boat in the water? After reading that link you posted.. it was mentioned that the stock prop may not be a good idea to run.. and really should be at least balanced.

    Tell me your thoughts on this video. How can one "tune" a boat so that it does not behave like this one did?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dbL1Q8diQU

    I mean, the boat was SO unstable! why?

  12. #42
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    I do not have this boat, I DO remember Chief ( James) said the M445 might give chine walk, so it is a fine balance of choice when it comes to pick one over the other. I use a M445 and M545 on my Pursuit mono, both work great. I can only tell you my first hand experience on the Pursuit, sorry.
    Chris ( dasboata ) is great, you can PM him and I believe he will reply quickly.
    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...6326-prop-work
    Last edited by tlandauer; 05-31-2014 at 09:01 PM. Reason: Include Chris' USER NAME on OSE

  13. #43
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    X642 should not stress too much on your boat, if you use a X646, then yes! lol...

  14. #44
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    Are there any other sites that you know of that sell pre balanced and sharpened props? Now, I don't want to run mine without one. afraid I will damage the bushings in the strut from a bad factory balanced prop.

    arggg.. now more time need to wait till I get it in the water :-(

  15. #45
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    Well, first of all, those guys are running part-throttle, on 6s, they did not say if it is stock system, but they are stressing the hell out of the ESC.
    The boat is running loose, strut and trim tab need to be carefully adjusted. Water was choppy...
    When the hull is out of water like that and if they are using a pretty good sized prop, the hull is experiencing torque-roll, that's why it flipped. I believe the strut angle is wrong, not to mention the trim tabs. They should have made the boat run well on 4s first.

  16. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tharr62 View Post
    Are there any other sites that you know of that sell pre balanced and sharpened props? Now, I don't want to run mine without one. afraid I will damage the bushings in the strut from a bad factory balanced prop.

    arggg.. now more time need to wait till I get it in the water :-(
    Order a "K" series prop, OSE ships real fast, it's cheap. Order 42mm and 45mm and have fun, I totally agree with Doby that these props are so under rated.

  17. #47
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    What is a K prop? Is this the CNC props they sell? Which prop on their site do you mean? I will order it right now!

  18. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tharr62 View Post
    What is a K prop? Is this the CNC props they sell? Which prop on their site do you mean? I will order it right now!
    POST #37, I linked every prop I discussed here, the "K" prop is a composite material prop, note that I don't like to use the word plastic because it has negative connotation.

  19. #49
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    Ah!! How silly of me.. I did not see the links!

    And, what direction do I need (spinning direction)?

  20. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tharr62 View Post
    Ah!! How silly of me.. I did not see the links!

    And, what direction do I need (spinning direction)?


    Normal direction!! Meaning CCW, when the site says "RIGHT Hand Turn , CW, or REVERSE" ------DO NOT BUY! LOL...
    leading edge should be on the left side of the prop on the TOP BLADE when looking at picture!

  21. #51
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    Got it.

    I ordered a few of the "K" props (42mm).. and I got one of the CNC'ed ones (42mm).

    None of them needed to be balanced, so I should be safe vs. taking a chance on the stock prop. Hopefully this was the smarter move.. and being patcient will prevent an issue that I would no doubt have had with the "RTR" gear.

    I put my name on the email list for the M445 (sharpened and balanced). So, when I get the email, I will buy one of those as well!

  22. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tharr62 View Post
    Got it.

    I ordered a few of the "K" props (42mm).. and I got one of the CNC'ed ones (42mm).

    None of them needed to be balanced, so I should be safe vs. taking a chance on the stock prop. Hopefully this was the smarter move.. and being patcient will prevent an issue that I would no doubt have had with the "RTR" gear.

    I put my name on the email list for the M445 (sharpened and balanced). So, when I get the email, I will buy one of those as well!


  23. #53
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    and.. more reading on the forum.. and another question..

    Deans.

    The many 4S packs I have to use in this boat are deans. Will this be okay with the stock gear, on 4S?

    I understand if I want to move to 5S, or 6S then I will need better connections.. but, will the deans be okay for now on 4S?

  24. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tharr62 View Post
    and.. more reading on the forum.. and another question..

    Deans.

    The many 4S packs I have to use in this boat are deans. Will this be okay with the stock gear, on 4S?

    I understand if I want to move to 5S, or 6S then I will need better connections.. but, will the deans be okay for now on 4S?
    I thought Proboat uses their "blue plug"... Deans are ok for now, many people would tell you to change your connectors to 5.5mm bullet which I agree whole heartedly and am using them as well, but if you are set to go and don't want to change for the first time, in reality, you are ok, just watch out , the Deans plug may get very warm (hot)
    4s I run 5.5mm bullet, but that depends on what motor you are running. On my Aqua Craft UL-1, I left the Deans alone. My Insane 34 Mono I have a Castle-Neu 1515 and yes, I use 5.5mm bullet.

  25. #55
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    You could also post in the Want To Buy forum if OSE it's out of stock...

    Quote Originally Posted by Tharr62 View Post
    Got it.

    I ordered a few of the "K" props (42mm).. and I got one of the CNC'ed ones (42mm).

    None of them needed to be balanced, so I should be safe vs. taking a chance on the stock prop. Hopefully this was the smarter move.. and being patcient will prevent an issue that I would no doubt have had with the "RTR" gear.

    I put my name on the email list for the M445 (sharpened and balanced). So, when I get the email, I will buy one of those as well!
    This is NOT a toy?!?

  26. #56
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    I thought Proboat uses their "blue plug".
    Correct.. I changed over to deans when I got the boat, as all my packs are already deans.

  27. #57
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    Well..

    Today, I got the new collet.. and .187 cable from OSE. Nice!

    The new collet has two set screws for the motor. However, the flat on the motor is only big enough for one of them. Is this okay?

    After all.. the stock one only had one set screw too!

    Thoughts?

    I honestly don't feel comfortable messing with the motor, making more of a flat. Will it simply work okay with one screw? Again, the stock one had only one, so it makes me think this will be fine?

  28. #58
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    The Octura 5mm-.187 collet is a big one, I am surprised it has enough room, using one set screw should be fine, just use loc tight on there other one, keep it in there is what I do, subjectively I think that maintans the balance bwtter.
    The collets I gave you the links before were for 5mm-.150, that the "short" version would fit, I am always on the look out for a good smaller one, would you mind post a picture?

  29. #59
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    Thanks so much! After thinking about more.. I decided to Dermal a better flat.. and just use both grubs. LOL. I had a bit that worked well, and all is well.

    Here is the pic of the final install with everything about ready for the water...

    mhccvbc5ge9bkxs6g.jpg

  30. #60
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    Thanks! That looks really great! I see, you got the TFL collet. I like them but on one occation it slipped on the cable and I had to roll out the dingy. Moral to the story is always do what Fluid taught me: put a dap of anti-seize compound on the threads of the collet, it will reduce galling and enable you to tighten much more without ever hurting the machined threads in there. Here is what I use and is sold in almost all AUTO PARTS store. Link:http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81343...eize+lubricant

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