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Thread: New owner, some questions on salt water use / after run / setup

  1. #1
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    Default New owner, some questions on salt water use / after run / setup

    Hi Guys!

    Apart from my Atomic Barbwire, this is my first real RC boat. I bought it a few days ago (Impulse 31 V2) from my LHS, and its sitting here on my work bench. I am excited to go and run it, but I want to be smart about it and ask a few questions as I am VERY new to boating (although have lots of RC experience).

    1. Whats the best way to leverage torque when putting on the prop? There is no easy way to "hold" the flex cable.. so, what I had to do is use a hex wrench, and hold it on the grub screw by the motor (on the collet) to prevent the whole thing from turning as I tightened the prop on. Is this the way to do it?

    - Also, should I be using any loc tight on the prop?

    2. Prop gap. I noticed that there is a small white “washer” that kinda flops around between the strut and the dog. The gap is apx. 2-3mm.. but, I can’t push the shaft any farther in. Is this normal? I read this was by design, as it will compress under load. I just wanted to be sure, that this is the case, and the washer is suppose to be floppy etc..

    3. I have this part that came with the boat. Its a small clear tube, but bigger diameter then the water cooling tube, and its short. Where is this used? The manual has no mention of it? Its about the diamater of the drive shaft?

    cpj58ldeofcxjz26g.jpg

    4. CorrosionX. Should I buy this product from the get go, and use it on my boat? I DO intend on running in salt water.. and I have a perception of what my after run should be.. and wanted to run it by you all to confirm.

    a. Immediately after the boat comes out of the water.. I will use a small hobby fuel pump (hand crank system) to flush out the cooling lines with soapy water (fresh water). (bring in a 12oz bottle). This will be done before the motor even has a chance to cool off.

    b. Remove the flex cable, wipe dry, spray with [WD-40, or CorrosionX??] and place a small amount of marine grease on it, and place in ziploc bag till I get home. Also, will remove the teflon from the drive shaft.

    c. Spray some [WD-40 or CorrosionX] through the bare drive shaft flushing out any water etc..

    d. Spray some [WD-40 or CorrosionX] on the rudder / outside hardware / fins /etc?

    e. Spray some [WD-40 or CorrosionX] through the cooling system, after I have flushed it with soapy water


    After that, I would pack the car and head back home.. where I would then leave the hatch open to air dry anything for a few days (assuming no water got inside of course.. otherwise I would have to deal with that) and I would leave the drive line etc... out until next run, re-grease and go play again.



    I guess my question here is two parts. First, do I need to use WD-40 or CorrosionX? and how and when should I use it? Lastly, do I need to wash the OUTSIDE of the boat, or can I just wipe down with a beach towel when it comes out of the water, and then do all of the above?


    5. I can't stand the stock collet with set screw! Whats the upgrade part for a better system with no set screws? Also, on that note is there a better upgraded flex cable I can use too?

    Thanks so much guys!!
    Last edited by Tharr62; 05-29-2014 at 02:15 PM.

  2. #2
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    Hi Welcome, hope you will enjoy this hobby as much as we do!!
    1. Once the prop is "keyed" with the dog drive, I use a hand tower or fold some thick paper tower and grab the prop by the root of the blades, as close as possible to the hub, noting that I am not in anyway risking bending the thin leading edge of the prop. Don't tighten the prop by holding anything that will transfer your torque to the cable! Especially when you loosen the prop nut, that rotational direction will unwind the cable!
    Depending your type of lock nut, you can use some blue light duty Loc Tight.
    2. Yes, washer should be floppy... the gap should be as wide as the diameter of your cable...
    3.Don't know---sorry, there was one time this question was answered but I forgot the answer. Could be for your antenna, slip this over the antenna tube then this goes over your antenna mount????
    4.CorrosionX is an excellent product, salt water or fresh water. Some spray on everything, from mechanical parts to ESC's to receivers.
    a. Great call, another member Jlov does the same since he is also from Fl. and runs in salt water.
    b. You should absolutely remove the cable and rinse it with fresh water, you can spray WD-40 on it to dispel any moisture. At this time I will not use Corrosion X since it is more expensive. No need to put grease on before putting it in your Ziploc bag.
    c. Your would have already gotten so much WD-40 on that shaft if you were like me. lol....
    d. Rinse ALL you external Hardware with fresh water as best as possible, then WD-40 would be good, please note that CorrosionX is very thick and unless you intend to leave it there, on the rudder and strut it is not always necessary to bath them with CorrosinX. You can, of course spray CorrosionX if you want.
    e. Many people do spray WD-40 into their cooling loop. I have some personal opinion which may or may not be correct: the cooling lines are made of silicone and thus are fuel/oil proof, meaning REPEATED spray of WD-40 won't deteriorate these hoses. The "O" rings that are inside the motor cooling jacket is something that I have had concern, because I wasn't sure the property of those rings. I am under the notion that REPEATED encounter with WD-40 will eventually soften and damage them, but they are replaceable. The important thing is to use your pump to rinse REALLY well. The silicone hose themselves do not need WD-40, the idea here is to dispel moisture and any salt content, especially in the cooling block of the ESC!
    You should check inside your boat and make sure no water is in there, any sea water in your hull is BAD NEWS. If you see salt water, you need to rinse the inside hull, somehow the motor is ok but make sure you don't wet the ESC---although PB says it is water proof, I will unvelcro it along with your receiver and start rinsing the inside hull.You should spray CorrosionX into the openings of your motor and the ESC, Propboat has an enclosed ESC---if I am not mistaken, but take it out and spray into the cooling block liberally!
    I will do this before you get home if that means you need to bring more fresh water with you!
    5. Since I don't have this boat, I don't know how long is the distance between the motor shaft and the cable, you should have no problem ordering a collet from here, the only inconvenience I find is that on Proboat ( Dynamite) motors, the flat spot on the shaft is a notch, with after market collet, you may have to grind and elongate the flat spot. Just a heads up!!
    Link for collet:
    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=oct-ocfhe5mm1
    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ct-ocfhe5mm15S
    I have the feeling the short version works better, but it is out of stock, you can order from Kintec:
    http://kintecracing.com/Collets_Couplers.html
    I am partial to Octura collect, and stay away from the three piece ones with a brass insert.
    Once home you can start your normal maintenance routine again.

  3. #3
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    One other thing! Do not neglect your servo! What people do is to take the upper and lower halves apart and spray CorrosionX, in any case, I should amend what I say about rinsing the inside of you hull should there be salt water: if your servo is a stock unit then it is NOT water tight, you can damage it by making the inside wet thus inducing glitches! Corrosion X is very good to use on servos!

  4. #4
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    Hi, and thanks so much for replying with great detail! I apprecite your time, and knowledge!

    Reading back all your info, I want to be sure I understand everything...


    1. Once the prop is "keyed" with the dog drive, I use a hand tower or fold some thick paper tower and grab the prop by the root of the blades, as close as possible to the hub, noting that I am not in anyway risking bending the thin leading edge of the prop. Don't tighten the prop by holding anything that will transfer your torque to the cable! Especially when you loosen the prop nut, that rotational direction will unwind the cable!
    Depending your type of lock nut, you can use some blue light duty Loc Tight.
    Opps! I did exactly what you said not to do. (but only to tighten). So, perhaps the cable is okay for now. But, I will have to spend some time next time, and try it this way. The stock locknut seems to have a good bite. Is there any need for me to remove it, and apply the blue lock tight? or will it be okay snug the way it is? Also, wondering.. does the nut self tighten with the direction of spin? Or.. is it the other way around?



    So, before I put the boat in the water for the first time.. What should I apply CorrosionX to? and.. when do I need to re-apply it?


    You should check inside your boat and make sure no water is in there, any sea water in your hull is BAD NEWS. If you see salt water, you need to rinse the inside hull, somehow the motor is ok but make sure you don't wet the ESC-
    What if it just drips in a little around the drive shaft onto a sponge? Would I still need to remove everything and clean the inside of the boat? Or.. do you mean, if I have a real mishap, where the boat flips, lid comes untaped / off.. and floods with water? Also.. I see that there is a lot of wood inside the hull. This is okay to get very wet?

    You should spray CorrosionX into the openings of your motor and the ESC, Propboat has an enclosed ESC---if I am not mistaken, but take it out and spray into the cooling block liberally!
    Should this be done right out of the gate when new, before use? Or.. only when I know it came in contact with water?

    if that means you need to bring more fresh water with you!
    This is a good question. How are people bringing fresh water with them? I was planning on bringing a small water bottle to use for the fuel pump for the cooling system.. but, how would I rinse the hardware, and outside of the boat on location?

    and stay away from the three piece ones with a brass insert.
    Of course this was the one I had in my cart! LOL. Why is that?


    Once home you can start your normal maintenance routine again.
    What additional would I need to do when I get home? On location, I would have flushed the cooling system, and removed, cleaned drive shaft etc.. whats the next step once home?



    Another thing.. How do I know whats salt water and whats not? For example, there is a park near where I live.. and has a large lake / pond. But, I am close to the ocean.. so, is everything around me salt water? Or, is some okay fresh water? How can I tell?

    Thanks again!!

  5. #5
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    I am by no means an expert , but in my limited experience I could tell you that :
    You should get an up-graded cable from OSE if possible, not that you might have damaged your cable, but OSE quality is better---Proboat's cable are not bad at all, but why not? :)
    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...able-impulse31
    Yes, by the nature of the rotational force and direction, you would think that the prop nut is self-tightening. But many a good/expensive prop has been lost with a loose prop nut. Use blue loc tight, there are two different kinds of lock nut, one has a nylon insert, that's probably the one Proboat has on your boat, another kind is fully metal:http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-8135
    there is a name for this type but my memory is not working. lol... I think it is called a "Zuber nut" .
    YES!!!
    Apply Corrosion X BEFORE the boat hits the water the first time!! Spray liberally into the motor can and the cooling block of your ESC, also the rubbery sealant that covers the wires on bothsides of your ESC, and go over the servo as well.
    Well, at least have a couple of gallons of water. Use your pump to rinse the "loop", but wash the hardware with fresh water, can be just have someone holding a jug. Pay attention to all the screws/fasteners!!, Also, Proboat water outlet nipple tends to rust in a hurry. You can spray Corrosion X prior to running, but wash after running, if need be use an old toothbrush to pick out the heads and nuts of the fasteners.
    The three-piece collet is a great idea but in practical use it is known to have issues with the insert eventually deforming thus getting you stuck in a big time. KISS is the logic here, lol...
    I don't know how to determine whether it is salt water or fresh water other than tasting it but of course I would not do that, you should assume unknown water in your area with a high possibility to have salt content.
    Happy Boating!

  6. #6
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    If you flip and have so much water in it, I think it is a good idea to have a good rinse. But even just the normal amount of water ( a few drops---note, this varies between boaters as to what is normal ), I will use a dampened towel to go over it, note, I have not run in salt water, but I can tell you the "lake" I run is an eco system park containing recycled water, it leaves a residue and I have my share of fasteners and water outlets that are nickle-plated rust in a REAL hurry.


    Another thing to watchout is the servo plugs and the rx terminal. CorrosionX before the run! Lipo batteries' balancing plug is another item you need to pay attention.

  7. #7
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    Oh boy.. there is a lot to all of this.. LOL.. and I thought flying FPV Multirotors was involved. Way more work with the boat! (but cheaper!)

    Okay..

    So, I did order the OSE upgraded flex cable for the boat. I assume, this either comes with, or I use the stock liners with it? Also, looking at the picture.. it has a strange looking nut, that looks like a sharp point? I take it this is NOT a locknut, and will need lock tight?

    I emailed OSE about the cullet, and they said they are sending me the "correct" one for my boat vs. the three part one I mistakenly ordered. LOL. I bet its the ones you mentioned.

    I want to be perfectly clear on the CorrosionX stuff.. (red spray can). When it arrives, I will spray INSIDE the motor holes, and on the ESC, and on the SERVO CASING.. and on the RX? This will be done in the boat? I can put rags around the items etc.. I did not really want to be removing motor, esc, etc. until the day it stops working, and I replace with better stuff etc. So, I can just do it this way and I am set? How often do I need to spray all of this? Every outing? Every month? etc? How long will it last? Water should not come inside the boat right? I also plan on putting a tube over the end of the drive shaft to help catch water coming in.. with a sponge below to "contain" any mess.

    Also, if no water goes in the boat, and touches any of this stuff.. then I am good anyway right?



    I guess I am still really confused on the CorrosionX.

    Here is a video where I got my after run ideas from.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53hjkUG8mOs

    I know he is using WD-40.. . but, I was thinking I would use the CorrosionX in place of WD-40? or.. maybe I just need to use it on the side (motor, esc, etc?)

    Do I need to spray the hardware with this after an outing? Metal parts on the boat? Or just WD-40? Will the CorrosionX gum up the rudder?



  8. #8
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    OK, not sure if the picture depicts everything you will get, the bullet shaped prop nut is for looks only, that will definitely need loc tight, but I would not use it alone, I will use a real lock nut . The thin aluminum hex nut in front of the bullet nut is a "spacer" nut, not really useful unless the thread is sticking out too much and the bullet nut can't "cover" the thread. If you use regular lock nut, you don't really need that spacer nut. You can use the liner that is in your boat right now.
    The Corrosion X will "gum Up" a bit once the "carrier" evaporates, the red can is the thinner viscosity one, OSE doesn't carry the blue can ( thicker of the two kinds). Some people will not spray that ( red can) into the motor because they think it is too thick, it's OK for the sport boating crowd. I use this on my Out Board Drive where the motor is outside and gets splashed with water regularly, I don't think it slows down the motor, lol...

    You can spray with everything in their places in the hull, use a paper towel to catch any dripping...
    Now, just to be clear: in order to effectively make your servo as water repellent as possible ( you can not make it water proof or resistent since there is no gasket between the halves of the casing and "o" ring for the post as in real water-proof servo). You need to open the case and spray inside, just spray outside the case is not useful. you can spray to the servo post and hope for the best, but chances are that the thick liquid will not flow into it, and the servo is laying down, you need it to be up right for it to at least flow---theoretically.
    Some people spray regularly into their Rx terminals, I don't , I know the blue can stuff lasts a long time even when submerged under the water---fresh water that is. One guy ( DRWAYNE) from Australia had his boat under water for a few months and everything worked because he uses the heavier/thicker variety.
    The rudder is aluminum, IMO just rinse it, you can wipe it down either with WD-40 or CorrosionX, no big deal.
    I would get the WD-40 for more elementary task, save the good CorrosionX on the critical stuff. but, everything is critical, isn't it? lol...
    I haven't watched your youtube link. Above is just what I would do if I were in your position.

  9. #9
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    Thanks again for all the info! I guess, I will need to wait and see what the new OSE cable looks like, etc.. and maybe it will all make more sense when I see it in person LOL.


    How about this after run plan then...


    SALTWATER USE, assuming no water was leaking in.. (maybe a few drops from drive line on sponge)

    (to be done seconds after it comes out of the water)

    - dump 1 full gallon of fresh water from jug over the outside of the boat, and over the rear hardware to rinse. Then, wipe dry with a towel.

    - Open hatch, remove packs

    - Pump x1 12oz bottle of "soapy water" through the cooling system, and then let sit while I move on to next step.

    - Remove flex cable. Rinse off with fresh water, wipe dry, spray with WD-40, and apply a light coat of marine grease on it for storage. Done.

    - Remove, and clean liners just like above.

    - Using one finger to plug the motor side of the drive shaft on the boat, and the other hand.. spray a few shots of CorrosionX inside the drive shaft to "flush out" (or would WD-40 be best here?)

    - Then, use the CorrosionX to shoot some through the cooling lines.. and also down the rudder intake. Or.. would WD-40 be best?

    Then, put everything in car.. drive home. When I get home, I can simply place the boat on the stand with the hatch off, and let it all air out etc.. But, at this point I would be completely done, leaving the flex cable out of the boat until next time I want to run.


    To be honest, this is about what needs to be done all the time, as I am not sure whats salt water and whats not around here.

    If I did this all the time, do you think Saltwater would really be any bother for me?


    Another question...

    Whats the best way to get the boat when it flips over? I have researched the following:

    - Tennis ball on rod, or hand rod

    - Retrieval boat with some type of pool noodle to push the boat in

    - Retrieval boat with some type of line behind it, with a ball to "catch" the rudder and pull back in

    - Proboat "Duck"


    What do you use?

  10. #10
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    LOL...
    I would have a towel ready to wipe off the hull, FG is ok to run in sea water. I would open the hatch first and disconnect the batteries, this way you can check if there is excessive water inside and most importantly the temperature on the motor, ESC and the batteries. You should have a temp gun with you.
    Flush the outside hardware is a good idea, then pump the water thru your lines, remove cable, etc...
    Now I am not sure but in my experience in order for the cable liner to come out, either you have to remove the strut outside ( remember how it was adjusted before attempting to do this---especially if you already had your boat dialed in!) OR remove the motor from its mount so you can pull it out from inside---provided it protrudes a bit from the end of your stuffing tube, if it is flush with the tube, you are out of luck and you will have to remove the strut. Wash out the stuffing tube, see if you can attach your pump from the inside and pump out water to the back, it's the only way you can do it unless you hook another tube to the collet end of the stuffing tube to route water out of the hull.
    You don't need to plug your motor with one finger, lol... just shoot some CorrosionX and let it drip out from the front, catch it with paper towel.
    I would disconnect the cooling line from the rudder and shoot WD-40 down ward so it exits from the pick up hole on the blade. As I said before, if you washed the loop well, there is no need to coat the inside of your lines with CorrosionX---save your money, lol...
    That is about it, you should not have problems if you take care of your equipment.
    I have used a "retrieval" boat pushing some PVC pipes wrapped with pool noodles, but I am very near sighted and I have a difficult time lining up the rescue fork, on couple occasions I thought my rescue boat need rescuing, lol....
    Now, I am just the worst pitcher in the world, I can't throw a fishing line 20 feet away from me if my life was depending on it, so, no fishing stick for me.
    Then I discovered WIND!!! I just sit there and look at my watch, 15 minutes is all it takes for the boat to come back to me... of course when there is no wind, well, that would be another topic....
    Seriously, I am lucky that I run at a lake where there is sanctioned boat race and facility so there is a row boat and we all use that, it is the best form of retrieval.
    Never tried the PB "Duck", looks interesting,
    all B.S. aside, if you can't have a row boat and distance is too far to cast a line, the best thing is a retrieval boat with low speed steering capability: Traxxas' Blast has a steerable out drive and their discontinued Villain are good examples of that.
    Just my $.02

  11. #11
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    I run in the Salt, only in Salt! I use Corrosion X and WD-40. I always flush lines, gently spray inside of the hull, and keep the flex cable out when storing. I do a full cleaning every 3 runs, fresh water the motor, then WD-40 and Corosion X it to death! lol, I clean the connectors with a Q-tip and Corosion X. Before you flush the lines spray the Corosion X then pump the lines. People in my neighborhood try to call it Brackish water but they are just making them selves feel better about their lazy cleaning skills on the 1:1's!
    Why are you bothering me? I want to see your boat!
    32" CF Rivercat--- built by "kfxguy" (SOLD)

  12. #12
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    Now I am not sure but in my experience in order for the cable liner to come out, either you have to remove the strut outside ( remember how it was adjusted before attempting to do this---especially if you already had your boat dialed in!) OR remove the motor from its mount so you can pull it out from inside---provided it protrudes a bit from the end of your stuffing tube, if it is flush with the tube, you are out of luck and you will have to remove the strut
    Are you kidding me????

    I think your right. It appears that the liner will not move down the shaft. I think it is tapered at the end, by looking at the flex cable. So.... This means, I NEED to remove the motor each, and every time I take the boat out for a few runs to clean this damn tube!

    Deal breaker for me. Man, I wish the hell I knew this before I bought the boat. There is no way I am doing that every time I run it. What a joke. You know, I assumed it would be like the revolt30 in this video..

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53hjkUG8mOs

    Please watch the video, and see how he deals with the liner. I also have an Atomic Barbwire (yes I know cheap boat).. but, the inner liner just slides out the back.. I thought all the boats were like this.

    Now what!

  13. #13
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    I will watch when I have time, but the Revolt 30 uses a different type of strut: it has a brass floating bushing where one can pull it out and clears the way for the liner to slide out. Proboat's strut has teflon bushings in the strut bore and they are the same dia as the liner, so there is NO way the liner can slide out! Removing the motor is very easy and the motor mount is well designed. Should not be a deal breaker.

  14. #14
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    For me, having to constantly be removing the motor over and over again is not a good design at all. Again, this is my personal feelings. The removable system that the other boat uses (Revolt, in this example) seems MUCH simpiler to maintain.. and the "fun" factor remains a bit higher as there is less involved to clean, and preform after run care on.


    The *only* other thing I can see that may resolve this for me.. is this upgrade??

    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...e31-HD&cat=180

    Is this just as simple as, removing the liner all together.. then using this new cable without a liner?

    a. Does this cause more wear on the inside of the shaft inside the boat (i.e. now there is no liner anymore?)
    b. Does this let more water inside the boat vs. having a liner?



    EDIT -

    Or..

    Do I even need to remove the liner at all? Maybe I can use clean it this way with a pipe cleaner? Kinda floss it clean etc? Spray some WD40 in the shaft first, then work this around in and out until I get a clean looking pipe cleaner?

    wa5pz670o5jbfyl6g.jpg
    Last edited by Tharr62; 05-30-2014 at 10:49 AM.

  15. #15
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    Well, in typical situation the liner is not pulled out every time you run the boat, as far as ease of removing the motor, yes, I do think PB's motor mount is among the easiest to accomodate such endeavor. The "removable system" the Revolt uses is not a system, it just so happens with the floating bushing it can be done, but his ( your youtube guy) method is "cheating" a bit, to use the red plastic tube to "catch" the front of the liner is hit and miss, and so little room between the collet and the front end of the stuffing tube. Now, it is not that convenient to remove the motor on the Revolt, you will have to remove the four screws on the wood platform---not a good thing to do after every run, because you will soon strip the wood! THEREFORE, I said it is easier/better to do this on the PB mount.
    I agree with your dislike of doing this, but you have already gone to this length WILLINGLY to do all necessary after run care, this is not a major deal breaker---IMO.
    To answer your question: yes, people use .187 cable to run w/o the liner, it is no problem whatsoever, it does not produce excessive wear, I built a couple of boats like this and not a single issue, depends on each situation, there should not be more water coming up the tube provided you grease it really well, you can still put a tube on the collet end of the stuffing tube to reduce the chance of water intrusion.
    That cable will be a great up grade in any case.
    P.S>I use pipe cleaner every time I run my boat, but it is not salt water, the salt between the outside of the liner and the brass tube can't be good, but if you will clean it after a few runs every time, it should be ok, remember, part of the fun is the maintenance, at least it is for me.

  16. #16
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    Thanks for sticking with me.. LOL.. I am sitting here at the computer really wanting to take the boat out.. but, want to be sure I get all of this sorted out in my mind first.


    So, in summery.. flossing the liner may not be a good idea in salt water, because your saying some salt can get trapped between the liner, and the inside of the stuffing tube (shaft) that I wont be able to access?

    and that, I just need to accept that removing the motor is part of what needs to be done at the end of the day to remove the liner, and do the proper cleaning.

    or..

    Upgrade to the other cable, and not have to deal with it at all?



    I did remove the motor just now to see how it went. Yes, simple. But, whats the best way to be SURE its properly aligned back up?


    Whats the point of the liner anyway? Is it to prevent wear on the inside of the drive shaft? If this is the case, then I wonder how running the bigger drive shaft would not create more wear and tear to the inside of the drive shaft? I am wondering how it works?

  17. #17
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    The best way to line up the motor is to have the motor in place with the screws half tightened, push the cable all the way in and it should enter the coller or coupler without you having to struggle. Hold the motor in that position and tighten.
    In all the posts that I have read, having no liner will not cause undue wear, of course provided the cable is free to spin, that means your tube has to be in good shape, i.e. No kinks or dramatic bend, nothing you need to worry.
    Truth be told: the bigger cable is a good idea if you run bigger motor and higher cell count, for stock power set up the cable that you have ordered is enough. It's your call, really.

    BTW, you are not removing the motor with the mount from the wood, are you? PB uses blind nut under the wooden platform, if you do that, do not over tighen the screws or you risk stripping the blind nuts or tear them loose from their "grab" of the wood.
    Just saying.....

  18. #18
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    Flossing is a good idea but not a thorough job especially if the boat is run in salt water, I would take it out and clean it, that is just the way how I would approach it.

  19. #19
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    Truth be told: the bigger cable is a good idea if you run bigger motor and higher cell count, for stock power set up the cable that you have ordered is enough. It's your call, really.
    I only want to run with 4S. Ever. Can I still use the upgraded cable? Truth is.. the only reason I would be doing this is to be able to remove the teflon tube, and avoid having to hassle around with the motor at all. Is this okay?


    BTW, you are not removing the motor with the mount from the wood, are you? PB uses blind nut under the wooden platform, if you do that, do not over tighen the screws or you risk stripping the blind nuts or tear them loose from their "grab" of the wood.
    Just saying.....
    I think I did?? here is a pic of how I did it.. Great.. are you saying this was wrong? LOL I thought THIS was how you changed the aligment etc..

    xkk2mtoelavidzv6g.jpg


    So... assuming this is wrong.. how in the world do I put it back without damage? Should I use loctight too? Man.. frustrating.. I feel like I can't touch this boat as it is. :-( Maybe I should have just stuck with the Atomic Barbwire..

  20. #20
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    Yes, the up graded cable is fine if you use it.
    The way I remove the motor is to detach it from the metal mount on the front, you need to buy a set ot L-shaped Allen wrench. It is M3 sized machine bolt, 2.5mm is the size. I get the better type of these tools, on the long end it is a ball drive, you can turn it at a slight angle. However, you can do it your way but no blue loc tight if you need to remove the motor after each outing. It is a delicate feat and be careful if this is the way you choose to do it.
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&P=SM&I=LX9124

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    Okay.. will do. I will just put it back, and tighten "snug" and then never deal with it again. If I need to remove the motor I will do it your way. So.. should I use some loctight then to return it back?

    EDIT - I guess I should just now wait until my new cable, and collet arrive so I can accurately put everything back in place. LOL. Please confirm, that I should use a little blue locktight on the bolts when I put back?
    Last edited by Tharr62; 05-30-2014 at 01:04 PM.

  22. #22
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    Wait until your cable arrives, alingn the mmotor really well, dap a bit of BLUE--liigght duty loctight. Good to go...

    Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk 2
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    Sounds great! Will do! Hopefully next week it arrives, and I can get this thing in the water!!

    On the new HD cable I ordered from OSE with the use of no liner.. I know I will lube the shaft really well.. but, do you think I can get three or four runs in before I would need to re-lube the shaft?

    I don't think its possible to replace the stuffing shaft in the boat (if it wears down)? So, I want to be sure that this upgrade will not destroy it. Was that the point of the stock liner, to protect the stuffing shaft to start with?

  24. #24
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    Not sure what you mean by 3 or 4 runs before greasing. If you mean 3 or 4 circles on the lake, yes, but after the end of each session--when you are done, you need to lube it.
    I have only three or four years under my belt, the liner is used for a long time way before FE has so much power and speed, the gas guys used it, it does protect the tube somwhat, but it takes really badly running cable to wear out the tube. Yes, its going to be hard to replace the tube, but its not impossible. On the IM its trickier, not as simple as on the Revolt 30.
    Some guys will never run with a liner,they hate it, and these guys are usually great builders/racers. I am a sport boater, I do 50-50, my drive train usually run very smooth, so I don't worry such things. A neglected liner will grab the cable and the whole thing goes like a roto rooter, it will twist the brass tube, so the liner is in fact a two edged sword.

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  25. #25
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    Not sure what you mean by 3 or 4 runs before greasing. If you mean 3 or 4 circles on the lake, yes, but after the end of each session--when you are done, you need to lube it.
    Ah! yes, let me be sure I understand this..

    If I take my boat, and I take lets say three sets of batteries with me to run. Each set will last (whatever the run time is? 5 -7min?). This is what I mean by run. So, can I run one set of batteries for 5 or 7min.. and then bring it in, swap out the batteries for another set, run again... etc.. three times before I will need to take out the flex cable? So, I am looking at like 15 - 20min of use..

    Otherwise, your saying.. I would need to re-lube after each battery of only a few mins of fun?

  26. #26
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    Well, from my experience, your run time on each set of batteries will not be 5 or 7 minutes!!!! You risk your batteries' life by over discharging them, I think first time you need to bring your boat back in under 2 minutes and check your temperature, I also have a battery check that tells me how much capacity is drained.
    For 15-20 min. run, I will take the cable out and lube it at least once, if you use liner, no need to take liner out. The grease gets thinned and mixed with water pretty easily, but if there is no grease left and you are not using the liner, there is a chance that you will get a bit of water inside not to mention metal to metal contact would welcome the presence of grease.

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    You must not run non-stop for 5 minutes or 7 minutes!

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    I will def. bring the boat in for the first few runs after 2min to check temps etc..

    But, once I see that it is normal, and everything is okay.. I should be able to run for at least 5min?

    I am using 6600mAh 4S 45C ThunderPower Packs. (this is two 4S packs that are 3300 each together in the boat).

    I think I have read 4.5 to 5min was about 5000mAh on a comparable boat / setup? So, I was hoping for slightly more time.. and I won't be running WOT the entire time either etc..

    I have the ESC set to "high cut off" 3.3V / cell...

  29. #29
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    I like running parallel set ups, but on my Pursuit I run two 5000MaH ( 4s2p) so my total capacity is 10,000Mah. I can say that I would be able to run 5 minutes, even longer, but I cut my run usually on the 4 min. mark.
    TP packs are great, I have them as well. Make sure you have no less than 20% left in your batteries . Some people leave even more reserve, so your actual run time may be less than you expect.
    Another thing: Running your boat at part throttle is HARD on your ESC, it is to be avoided, what you gain in run time you end up paying on the replacement of the ESC.

  30. #30
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    wow only 4min. Heck, I get 7 and 8 from a flying multi rotor with camera, and gimbal and I land with 3.5V / cell!

    Granted, a fast boat is going to take more power etc.. I get it. I guess, I should have done a bit more research on all of this. I am started to see why the RC boats are in the few numbers compared to all the other RC's out there. One will spend way more time in cleanup, and "stuff" then actually enjoying the activity. LOL. Like you said, the care for the boat I guess needs to be part of the fun... but.. I'm not sure how I feel about that... yet.

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