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Thread: looking to get the best performance out of my impulse 31 v2 PLEASE HELP ME

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    fl
    Posts
    2

    Default looking to get the best performance out of my impulse 31 v2 PLEASE HELP ME

    Hello I am new to the boating field and bought a impulse to get into it and ive only had it in the water about 5 times and have smoked 2 motors and a speed controller running the boat on 6s obviously the electronics on this boat cant handle the 6s so now im asking for opinions and experienced help if horizon sends me a new speed controller and motor should I or can I have a fast reliable boat bringing it down to a 4s boat or should I sell it and upgrade to a leapord or tp motor with a 180 amp seaking that way im able to run 6s I have 4-6s 4500mah 30c lipos 2-3s 50c 5000mah lipos and 2-4s 50c 5000mah lipos should I just make the impulse a stock class boat on 4s and just build another boat to run on 6s or can I make the impulse reliable running at 4s and 6s with a better motor/controller setup or do i have to choose how many cells im gonna run and stick to that amount I have and extra receiver and batterys already any suggestions please help I live in ft myers and would like to meet other hobby junkies

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    1,969

    Default

    Hi Brandon,
    I have a setup guide on that boat which also covers setup, upgrade options, prop selection, and has a ton of useful links, if you'd like a copy shoot me an email at jqhydro@gmail.com

    Proboat claims this is a 6S boat--- while the ESC *is* rated for 22.2volts (6S), it is only an 80A ESC which is way too low to run 6s safely. You really need something like a 180A ESC to have reliable headroom to handle the spikes. You can run the boat on 6S but ONLY if you prop the boat way down, which will kill the speed you are looking for by using 6S in the first place. So for stock ESC you are way better off running 4S and using a proper prop like a sharpened and balanced x642 prop-- you'll get really nice speed on the boat (low 40's), and it will be rock solid reliability. The other reason I like to stay on 4S is that the stock ESC *is* a really nice unit, and is highly water resistant-- I've had several completely underwater and survive. The aftermarket ESCs are not nearly as water resistant and you need to dip them in liquid plastic or apply conformal coating, etc.

    You'll hear people say they run their impluse (or blackjacks) on 6S without problems, but I personally know MANY people who have burned out the stock ESC-- they use a larger prop, or the boat hops out of the water and when the prop drops back in there is a massive spike that kills it. While on the other hand you will hardly find anyone who has problems with the stock setup on 4S.



    The 1800kv motor is also a little too hot for 6S on the RPM side IMHO. I like to stay between 25K and 35K, and with the 1800kv motor on 6S you are at almost 40K. 5S would be perfect on 1800 at 33.3K. But you can use 1800 on 6S, just be sure your prop and driveline are perfectly balanced to avoid damaging vibrations. However, if you start to increase the RPMs, that really cuts into runtimes. 4S with a larger prop you'll get 5min plus headroom. If you want some speed says, then use 2S pack + 3S pack with a responsible prop and you can use the stock ESC on 5S.


    One other thing, your boat is probably running wet will will also contribute to burning out your ESC. Here's the order of operations I use to make adjustments:

    0) ensure trim tabs are neutral (// to bottom of the boat), and that the propshaft is // to the bottom of the boat
    1) Adjust COG of the batteries so that the nose lifts at full throttle to avoid plowing
    2) If the nose of the boat is where you want it, but the boat is still "wet" (too much hull in the water), then drop the strut 1/8 inch, and repeat step 1. If the boat is too "loose" (not enough hull in the water), then raise the strut 1/8 inch and repeat step 1
    3) Do steps 1 and 2 over and over until you find the perfect combination
    4) Now you can use the trim tabs to make fine tuning adjustments on the nose, usually for changing water conditions.
    Note, a perfectly setup boat should not need trim tabs (none of my monos have them). But they are a quick and easy way to adjust the nose depending on changing water conditions, as messing with the strut requires a lot of trial and error tuning with the COG. If you START with trim tab adjustments before finding the right strut/COG point, then you end up masking setup problems, so do that step last.

    Cheers,
    Chief

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