45" Dumas Scarab

[Ken_NJ]

Some more good ideas Lenny, thanks. I guess I'll be really looking again to see what I can come up with. Let me ask this, if I were to use dual rudders, I don't think I would need to have turn fins? Would I?

While I am picking out what to order I came across this boat. It's 54" compared to my 45", and his is gas, but I am hoping my boat comes out looking like his. I did email Mike the owner and he did sell the boat. We went back and forth a few times chatting about things. He use to live in Pt Pleasant where these offshore boats would run. I live about 10 minutes from that area. Mike has since moved to Florida and is still building boats.

Pics page: http://www.performanceboats.com/othe...a-replica.html
His build log: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/spee...oat-build.html

[lenny]

The turn fins well be up to what that hull likes.

On the Stealth mono I posted with the dual rudders,
The first builder said he tried them on it but the hull did not like them.
He said it handled better with out the turn fins,
And I am not sure if it was because of it having the dual rudders rather than one with the turn fins.
I may have to test that theory sometime when I get it back on the water.

[srislash]

The turn fins well be up to what that hull likes.

On the Stealth mono I posted with the dual rudders,
The first builder said he tried them on it but the hull did not like them.
He said it handled better with out the turn fins,
And I am not sure if it was because of it having the dual rudders rather than one with the turn fins.
I may have to test that theory sometime when I get it back on the water.

Geez Len, better get on it. That would be a good one for circumnavigating the lake.

[Ken_NJ]

I'm looking at a complete hardware package on eBay, comes with everything on the transom. If I can get him to change two things I'll go for it. Single rudder.

[srislash]

I'm looking at a complete hardware package on eBay, comes with everything on the transom. If I can get him to change two things I'll go for it. Single rudder.

So ideally this one http://www.ebay.ca/itm/160mm-rudder-...item20ac344aed

[lenny]

I finally just got done with splitting up all the 8s and 10s packs for it.

[Ken_NJ]

Yes that rudder Shawn. This package... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=130299322726

I asked him if he would swap the rudder with one that has 2 cooling lines and the 1/4 flex but with shaft that takes a 3/16 prop.
This rudder... http://www.ebay.com/itm/160mm-rudder...item20ac344aed
This shaft... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-X-580mm-...item1e73a44874

[srislash]

You know you could build your own with quality stuff here http://www.gizmomotors.com/index.php.../results,41-40
Take a look at the pages. Pages are at the bottom, 5 is struts and tabs.
Just suggesting things :-)

[Ken_NJ]

LOL I could. I have enough I have to build from scratch.

I did not mention it but while I am building the Kaama, I'm building another scale boat and going back and forth between the two. I bet Tbauer would like to see the scale one.

Monday I'm going to a boatyard to see someone that I hope will be able advise me on minor Gelcoat repairs on the Dumas deck.

[srislash]

Hopefully Frank can work with you a bit on the setup.

[Ken_NJ]

Question on the Swordfish 240. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ef-HBC0240L-CW

Does the Program card and Program box do the same thing? Long term this will be my only ESC of this type.

Add a Program Card (+$6.00) http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...f-program-card
Add a USB Program Adapter (+$10.00) I only have a Mac, USB programer requires Windows XP, Vista or 7(will not work with windows 8)
Add a Program Box (+$18.00) http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...hef-programbox

Are these EZ connectors reliable? http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=dh-490&cat=78

[srislash]

Those EZ's are good Ken. I have them in a number of setups.
I prefer the program box or computer(now that it has way more adjustability) but the card will work too. With the computer you have more options with timing and LVC. Not sure about the Mac thing.

[Ken_NJ]

I saw some of those connectors with threads and nuts, which seem better then tension slip on type. As long as they are OK.

Hell for $18 I might as well get the Program box then. If it says Windows, not my preferred OS, scratch it.

I'm waiting on hardware delivery, cannot do much. And OSE is out of the 56mm motor mount right now. So that order has to wait.

In the meantime I'm working on the graphics to see what I'll need done by Callie. At the same time I'm working on this... http://tinyurl.com/k853xg8

[srislash]

Nice,you going to load it with people?

[Ken_NJ]

The fishing boat? Eventually, someday, when I can get around to creating them. Could never find the right ones in the scale I need.

[Ken_NJ]

Still waiting for my running hardware to arrive. Last check it was still in Shanghai.

I did receive the the Swordfish 240A HV and motor mount. Have a friend with CNC equipment, need to do some modifications on the mount. Will be doing that Monday.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ef-HBC0240L-CW
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80927

My question about the ESC. It has 4 water inlets on each end for a total of 8. I have not been able to find any pics online of this version. Would I connect one water line and loop it around until it exits?

Also, the positive battery input has a small gauge pigtail wire coming off of it. What is that for? I don't see any explanations in the papers that came with it.

[srislash]

I was just thinking of you and how/if it was coming along. May have a chance to take a boo at mine this weekend and see what my first step should be.

ESC cooling, Yup, just loop around and choose the way it exits to suit your build. I can take a pic if you like Ken.

The pigtail is a jumper for the anti spark. That is good for above 6s. Even at 6s the initial spark can catch you off guard and slowly take out connectors at contact point. 12s can blow the end off. There should be a one way diode/resistor inline on that pigtail that siphons some juice to energize the capacitors, at that point you can plug in your main power leads.

[Ken_NJ]

In a waiting mode now. Frustrating. The hardware seems to be on the slow boat from China. Balancers coming from Malaysia, in Puerto Rico now, and LHS has plywood on order for the cockpit.

Since it's nice this weekend will fiberglass in the transom bulkhead.

I wanted to not have to paint the white gelcoat white, but looks like it's to difficult to get small amounts of gelcoat and match the white. So going to fix the spots and paint just the hull sides and deck, not the bottom. Besides, the cockpit area will nee to be painted also.

One cooling loop makes things easy. So nothing needs to be connected to the anti spark wire? Also still need to pick & order a prop.

[srislash]

I know how the waiting is, I finally got my HV batteries but can't find my Castle 6.5 bullets locally. I too have a nice weekend here (and off work).

I find it best to paint it anyway Ken, the gel will fade.

I have a X448 and X450 here that you could try, I'm not super attached to either one should they work well for you. Also don't think I paid much for the 50mm, it is nice and shiny polished. Like I said in the PM, really not to sure where to start with the submerged drive.

[Ken_NJ]

I ordered this combo pack of running hardware from Promise Hobby on eBay. He kindly substituted the 1/4 flex-1/4 shaft with a 1/4 flex-3/16 shaft. Also substituted the single water pickup rudder with a dual water pickup. My order sat in USPS customs in NYC for 2.5-3 weeks, it was finally delivered. The motor is from Hobby King and the motor mount from Kintec. The mount was slightly modified to fit the motor, will have to see what other changes need to be done to it when it's fitted into the boat.

Running hardware: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130299322726...84.m1423.l2649

[Ken_NJ]

Mother's day weekend didn't get much done. On Saturday went to an airshow at Joint base Mcguire-Dix-Lakehurst. If you want to see pictures, your welcome to take a look.

Slideshow: http://s11.photobucket.com/user/ken_...tml?sort=9&o=0

TB_DSC_0007.jpgTB_DSC_0228.jpgTB_DSC_0232.jpg

[Ken_NJ]

Had to get some body work done. There are divits around the deck edge for a railing that I am not using. Ground them out with a Dremel. Punched a hole in frog tape with a hole punch, taped it to the deck and filled it with 2 part glazing filler. Removed the tape and sanded smooth. Hopefully the divits don't show. Also had a spot on the port bow to fill. Dumas did not mount the deck to the hull too evenly. Started grinding out the inside of the hatch opening to get it nice and even around the perimeter. I rounded the corners for a better appearance.

[Ken_NJ]

Used the Dumas supplied plywood and fitted to shape for the transom doubler. Used G-flex to glue it in. Then used some cloth and polyester resin with white pigment to seal the wood in place.

[Ken_NJ]

Was not sure how to do the hatch opening so here's what I came up with. Used some poplar wood, shaped it to glue to the underside of the opening. Think I lost some pics. First one shows the opening before. Last one shows with these glued in place. This really stiffened up the deck. Once these were glued in place I used the Dremel and hand sanding to get the wood and deck lip even.

[Ken_NJ]

Next I cut 1/8" aircraft plywood to shape to form a lip that the hatch will sit on. Wood that I could not get to once it was glued in was given a light coat of polyester resin for waterproofing before the wood was glued in place. I added an area aft for securing the cockpit hatch. I'll figure out how I do that once I get the hatch built. Next I'll use resin with white pigment to seal the hatch lip.

[Ken_NJ]

5 picture limit! Ugh. Cannot have more than 5 uploads in a post?

[srislash]

Looks great Ken. Funny, was gonna PM you and check status today. Lol

[flraptor07]

This is gonna be a awsome build, should run pretty quick too. Can't wait to see what else you come up with and see it done!

[Ken_NJ]

Thanks, hope I don't disappoint.

Have a question for you guys. First let me catch up a little. You can see in the first pic I coated the bare wood with resin and sanded. I added white pigment so I can see a bit better. I also used the 2 part Evercoat glazing putty to clean up the edge. I started on a frame for the hatch, you can see the steps to get to the last pic. The frame is just laying there in place, not glued yet. I tend to overbuild, but that's how I do it. Tolerances are tight with the hatch frame. I'll still need to sand the edges down to account for adding resin which will would make the frame too tight.

[Ken_NJ]

Now for my question. I plan on using 1/32 plywood for the deck. I can do this two ways.

1 - Sand the frame down so the plywood would come flush with the deck. This would leave a seam which I guess most would tape to seal so no water gets in. 3rd pic

2 - Have the plywood overlap the deck, no seam and it might be tight enough so I don't have to tape. It would be a tight overlap. The edge will be rounded and the deck sealed with resin. 4th pic

I know water will get in where it wants to no matter what you try to do. What do you think?