45" Dumas Scarab

[Ken_NJ]

Might as well stick to one of these if I'm spending $200+. I have other things to order, so will order everything at one time.

Swordfish Pro 200amp: http://keithbradleyboats.com/product...s-200a-hv-esc/ $199.99+
Swordfish Pro 240 amp: http://offshoreelectrics.com/proddet...ef-HBC0240L-CW $249.00+

[Ken_NJ]

I went through what I think I need for the running hardware. I looked for the largest items since this is a large boat. For the rudder, I like number 4. This hardware is for a submerged drive with 1/4 flex and the shaft reduced to 3/16. The only thin missing is the prop. Can anyone look this over and see if I have this right?

Collet: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...oct-ocfhe8mm25 **
1/4 flex cable with 3/16 step down shaft: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1290 **
Drive dog: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=oct-oc6dm **
Bullet: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=oct-oc6pnmm
Strut:

1. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...s-spds-007-008 **
2. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...s-spds-010-250

Rudder:

1. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdr-001
2. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80050
3. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdr-010
4. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=ros-spdr-011a **

Turn fins:

1. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80067 **
2. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80125

Trim tabs: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80075
Prop: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=oct-x450%2F3 (x450/3 dia=1.97" pitch=2.758"

[srislash]

I went through what I think I need for the running hardware. I looked for the largest items since this is a large boat. For the rudder, I like number 4. This hardware is for a submerged drive with 1/4 flex and the shaft reduced to 3/16. The only thin missing is the prop. Can anyone look this over and see if I have this right?

Collet: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...oct-ocfhe8mm25
1/4 flex cable with 3/16 step down shaft: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1290Just watch the length you order
Drive dog: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=oct-oc6dm
Bullet: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=oct-oc6pnmm I would just use a lock nut, these have a tendency of breaking loose
Strut:

1. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...s-spds-007-008 I think for submerged drive this one will be fine. Just get the 'mono' one
2. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...s-spds-010-250

Rudder:

1. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdr-001
2. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80050
3. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-spdr-010
4. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=ros-spdr-011a This one is the ticket. One line for motor, one line for ESC

Turn fins:

1. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80067 I think the mounting base is better for you with these
2. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80125

Trim tabs: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80075
Prop:

For the prop I would start X450 for submerged. Maybe even smaller. It has been so long since I ran submerged drive myself. I am wanting to say 457 for surface drive. I would just keep an eye on temps and start with a X450. 2 or 3 blade. 3 blades draw more amps but can help with torque roll.

[Ken_NJ]

I would need to order 24" flex and cut it down to length. Already been reading articles how to do this.

Do I really need turn fins or trim tabs? Someone suggested going dual rudder.

For the rudder transom offset, I guess far enough back to be next to the prop?

This the prop you suggest? This the correct rotation? http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=oct-x450%2F3
For submerged stick to X or 12 series?
For 2 blade would I go up or down in pitch & dia from an x450/3?
I'll have to try a few props for tuning.

Sorry many questions.

[srislash]

Well I would add fins and and tabs as needed later. It does add to the bill on this bigger stuff. You should be able to set it up to run good without the trim tabs and certainly without fins.

That 12 series may be a good start. When I ran submerged they were little FE's so 30-35mm props. Bigger may be different

[Ken_NJ]

Which 12 series? The larger diameter? http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...tura+12+Series

[srislash]

Geez 45mm seems small. I'm going to be in a new realm here when mine hits the water too. Though I guess it could be used on a smaller FE later. I bet Brian at Rocket City has a good selection of larger props.

[srislash]

Nope but some 14 series, mind you so does Steve. I know my gas buds runs these quite a bit. They run the lower side of RPM

[Ken_NJ]

You have to page through all the props at Rocket City. Will have to find and Octura prop listing to find one. That would be a separate order, so will stick with the one mentioned in post #33 if that one is OK.

My delivery came from HK. The inside of this big boat is going to get small fast. The motor looks bigger in person then in the picture.

[srislash]

They are big but look a mall in these hulls

[Ken_NJ]

Been looking for a motor mount. This one fits 56mm motors, the only mount I found so far. The motor mount rails are CF. Trying to figure out how this gets mounted in the hull. Do I add blocks of wood in the hull and screw the mm to them? Or does this motor mount get secured into the hull?

Know of any others?

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80927

[srislash]

Don't recall, did yours have the rails? I don't believe you did.

Nope just line it all up and epoxy that one in getting epoxy through all them holes at the bottom of the mount. There are some tips on this that I can link you to .

[Ken_NJ]

The instructions from Dumas show the setup for this boat with gas, so the plywood they give you is not the right thing to use, at least I don't think so. I'll make up my own rails. I thought I'd have to use those holes on the bottom.

Please, if you have links I'd like to see what others have done. Unless you use the right wording, searches don't come up with what you are looking for.

I guess no other motor mounts out there for this size motor?

[srislash]

The instructions from Dumas show the setup for this boat with gas, so the plywood they give you is not the right thing to use, at least I don't think so. I'll make up my own rails. I thought I'd have to use those holes on the bottom.

Please, if you have links I'd like to see what others have done. Unless you use the right wording, searches don't come up with what you are looking for.

I guess no other motor mounts out there for this size motor?

I have a couple here but they are all aluminum. I would rather epoxy CF to FG than Aluminum to FG. Those little holes make for good bonding.

The epoxy can be made to look nice and clean if you tape the area off you intend to epoxy. Tape off a 1/2" strip where the mount rail will sit, sand that area, sand the CF rail to above those little holes about 1/8th, then epoxy. Pull off the tape after partially cured (some thought must be put into how this will be pulled off with the mount in the way). And walla, nice clean lines and good bond. BTW, 24 hr cure provides the best bond. Tony has a how to on this somewhere, I'll take a quick poke around or ask him.

[srislash]

Near as I can find so you get the Jist is this http://www.kbbforums.com/stuffing-tu...fied-t227.html

[lenny]

Nice find shawn,
I was doing some looking to but only found bits and pieces of old stuff builds so far.

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...7-TotalPackage
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ion&highlight=

Near as I can find so you get the Jist is this http://www.kbbforums.com/stuffing-tu...fied-t227.html

[Ken_NJ]

Those links are helpful, thanks!

Before I make any purchase blunders I have to ask...

The Turnigy batteries come with 10 gauge wire and 4mm bullet connectors. The HK 4B6 charger came with 4 cables with XT connectors. I don't know what connectors if any are on the Swordfish esc's I will be using. Do you know? Do I standardize the connectors on everything?

Swordfish Pro 200amp: http://keithbradleyboats.com/product...s-200a-hv-esc/ $199.99+
Swordfish Pro 240 amp: http://offshoreelectrics.com/proddet...ef-HBC0240L-CW $249.00+

[lenny]

Yes you should standardize the connectors on everything to make life easier on you and the setup.

I use 5.5 bullets on almost all my setups,
And that makes every thing happy in the connectors to wires flow.
You also want to keep the wires short as possible in the setup,
For less resistance in the setup.

This are a great deal. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-5-5mm-Go...item4862c0b56b

And you may want to make up a set or two of these for parallel running cell packs.

CS33009.jpgCS33008.jpgCS33032.jpg

[Ken_NJ]

Thought so, thanks Lenny.
I have 8 gauge wire, red and black, know about keeping it short and was going to do exactly that for the parallel packs.

Planning on this strut: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...s-spds-007-008
The .25 round bottom style for mono. If I use 5/15 tube, no liner, will the brass tube slide into the liner at all?

[lenny]

Not sure what you mean,
Are you going to use a liner or just use the stuffing tube and the flex ?
Do you mean the stuffing tube into the strut sleeve at the front to hold the tube ?

[twissted]

You should make one there easy to do and depending on the amount of time you want to spend on it. I built one in just a few min. you could do it. mine is strong and light weight but not much to look at.

[Ken_NJ]

Just the stuffing tube and flex. Not having this hardware in hand makes it a bit difficult to see how things fit together.

This will be a submerged drive with the stuffing tube coming out of the boat bottom. So when the stuffing tube meets the strut, would the stuffing tube barely slide into the strut a little bit? What would hold the end of the stuffing tube?

[srislash]

Just the stuffing tube and flex.

This will be a submerged drive with the stuffing tube coming out of the boat bottom. So when the stuffing tube meets the strut, I would think where they meet they should be sealed? Or would the stuffing tube barely slide into the strut a bit?

You may have to 'size up' the tube to make a nice fit into the strut Ken. I have done this many times. Just solder the next tube size up(possibly twice) to the stuffing tube end that goes into the strut. You can make it hydrodynamic or what have you. Sand it smooth, or shrink wrap it, whatever. This make sense for the question?

[Ken_NJ]

Yes thanks Shawn.

Trying to think of everything I need for one big order from OSE, have lots of little items. Sorry this might be getting petty.

Anything special about the rudder push rods? Just use brass? Use these http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=grp-1177.3 on the rudder?
I see most use a rubber boot. Is there an thru hull fitting to use where the push rod goes thru the hull?

[Ken_NJ]

Long list of things to buy. Please let me know if I should change anything?

For the prop, I read a few links about balancing. A pre-balanced prop is expensive. What do you recommend to do?
Do I need a ESC Program board?
And recommendations about holding the hatch down?

Swordfish Pro 240 amp: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ef-HBC0240L-CW
Motor mount for 56mm diameter motors: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80927
Octura Coupler Flex Hex 8mm to .250: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...oct-ocfhe8mm25
1/4" Assembled Cable with 1/4 to 3/16 step down shaft: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1290
Octura Large Drive Dog for 3/16" Prop Shafts: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=oct-oc6dm This the right size?

Speedmaster Large Strut Round with long bracket for mono 1/4": http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...s-spds-007-008
Speedmaster Dual Pickup Tapered Rudder Assembly 4" setback : http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=ros-spdr-011a
One set Metal Turn Fins, Extra Large: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80067
Dual Trim Tab Assembly Large Sized: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80075
Octura x450/3: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=oct-x450%2F3

Duratrax Temperature Gun: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...XP3100&cat=143
EOS Battery checker: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...emp-eossentry2
5/16 red shrink tubing: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ss-pt187
5/8 red shrink tubing: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ss-pt375
5/8 black shrink tubing: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ss-pt375

Aluminum Large Water Outlet: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=aero-2011 Will need 2 or
Dual Water Outlet - Natural: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...atural&cat=166
Aluminum BulkHead Fitting: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80898 Will need 2
Large 1/4" Silicone Tubing: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ng-1%2F4-clear
Great Planes 4-40 Linkage Rod: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...-40-rod&cat=78
Du-Bro E/z Connectors 4-40: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...=dh-490&cat=78

Dubro Waterproof Pushrod Seals: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...p?prod=dh-3108
ESC Program board: ?
Prop balancer: ?
Hatch locks: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80355
Prop nut: Local hardware store
5/16" Brass tubing: Have on hand
Bullet connectors: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-5-5mm-Go...item4862c0b56b

[lenny]

Hey,

For the prop, I read a few links about balancing.
A pre-balanced prop is expensive. What do you recommend to do? You can test with these and than look for a good deal for the right prop. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...led+Propellers
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/cat...led+Propellers


Do I need a ESC Program board? It makes things a lot easier.

And recommendations about holding the hatch down? I like thumb nuts and a seal of some kind.
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...r-hatches-down
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ht=hatch+locks
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ht=hatch+locks

And do not forget these as a backup flotation.
various_004.jpg

Or the normal stuff to try.
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ht=hatch+locks

[Ken_NJ]

Umm, would not mind that kind of flotation at all.

Updated the cowl locks in my list. I'll leave the prop balancer and program board until later. What I have will give me all the hardware to get started on building. I'm sure there is something else I will need so another order in the future is bound to happen.

One question about the rudder location, does it matter, inline or offset with the prop?

Make that two questions. Since I will have two cooling lines, which outlets would you go with?

small__31_03_2007_10_37_aer-2011.JPG ST-5723D_medium.JPG

[lenny]

Offset to the starboard side,
Or you can go with a twin rudder.
007.jpgIMG_1383.jpg

[Ken_NJ]

I like the twin rudder. I like those boats. But another $50+.

What about the water outlets? You guys always come up with something good that makes me think or change my mind.

[lenny]

You need to shop around and also check on ebay for cheaper deals.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-Boat-Ship...item2571c555e3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AM-276-Quali...item4171061347

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...y-water-outlet