Poseidon 33" Rigger

[nate]

Just arrived today. Seen a few members buying this hull, So I jumped on one as well. Waiting on the Carbon fiber twill, and resin to come in along with the motor, esc ect. It defiantly needs more strength in the hull, and thicker carbon rods. Here's a list of whats going in the hull. Enjoy.

Lehner 1950/6-
Upgraded motor mount-
Swordfish 220amp Pro HV-
Octura x442-
Flight Power Pro50 6s 3600mah-
Octura .150 cable/Coupler

[mekzoid]

always liked this hull!
Nice shopping list, What speeds are you expecting?

[nate]

I seen a H&M Mr. Krabs w/ 1950/6 on 6s, x445 running in the high 70's. Im not going to start off with the 445, but the 442 on 6s. I would love to see high 60's low 70s. I almost don't trust the strut on this hull. It needs a speedmaster strut. Just have to see what happens bud.

[grsboats]

Octura .150 cable for me looks undersized for this motor...I would suggest 3/16 hughey cable.Gill

[RaceMechaniX]

I would also pass on the Octura coupler and spend the money on a MBP coupler. I have used Octura's but you must check the concentricity.

.150 cable will work with the smaller prop sizes, but make sure you tin the end going into the coupler. 60-70's should be no problem, but reinforce accordingly.

[nate]

Where is a good place to purchase the MBP coupler's? And prop size is going to be on the smaller size. How would the V900 series work with this hull, like the 937?

Yes your right about the Hull strength, its weak right now, bad! Im trying to decide whether the strut and rudder are going to hold up to the task... It scares me how weak the strut is overall. I know bolting up a speedmaster strut is going to be a pain, knowing I need to fill the already drilled bolt pattern, and then re drilling again for the speedmaster, but no short cuts, before its all said and done, might as well repaint the hull over again.

[RaceMechaniX]

I cannot tell from the pictures the quality of the strut and rudder. You may be able to use a Speedmaster strut with the existing bracket. Likewise you can bolt on a Speedmaster 20 size rudder to the existing bracket. Chances are the existing hardware will be OK at those speeds and prop diameters. A hard crash at speed will bend any rudder or strut.

I would not try the V series Octura right off the bat as they have a lot of lift and tend to blow the tail out of the water. A Grimracer 38x55L would be a good place to start. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...dh-sb-aqub9755 You could then move to the 38x63L which has more pitch http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...dh-sb-aqub9758

You can buy the MBP couplers from Rocket City racing in the US: http://www.rocketcityracing.com/MBP-...81_p_1942.html

[nate]

So in other words, the V series may cause the rear of the hull to bounce? What about the medium Lift props, say M series, can't I get way more RPMs from these props and less amp draw? I need to go ahead and buy a nice set of prop including the ones you have listed, start small, work up and check temps. I have heard that 130ish degrees f is too hot on these motors, is this correct? Any key temps to watch for on the lehner motor?

[RaceMechaniX]

Nate,

Keep in mind what you have is a SAW set-up. 2000kv on 6S is pretty hot and too much in my opinion if you want to run oval. You should just make several passes or only 2-3 laps before bringing it in to check temps.

Yes, the V series will likely cause the tail to hop if you do not have enough weight on the tail. Generally speaking you want a light tail for riggers.

The X series and M series are both low lift props and will work, but traditionally are better suited for mono's and sport hydro's. It will not hurt to try them on a rigger though. 150F on the end bell or non-cooled section of the sleeve is a good temp limit. Measure this several minutes after running to allow the sleeve to heat up to what the windings are. If you check the temps right after you run, you are still measuring a ratio of actual internal temp versus cooling jacket temp. A good rule of thumb is you should be able to touch the motor end and be warm, but not hot.

If you have a 4 cell battery, start with that to set-up the hull. It will be a lot more forgiving than 6 cells.

TG

[NativePaul]

A couple of years ago there were a few Belgians at our nationals all running Mr Krabs on 560g 6s 4500mAh packs, the KVs were between 1900 and 2300 on alloy props in the region of 40mm and they were ballistic, an easy 10mph faster than anything we had down the straights, and running bigger props than me despite doing much more RPM, (I was on 2700kv 4s at the time), they are very light mouldings and they were shaving every gram off them they possibly could in order to use those big props and high RPMs.

There are a couple of Posiedens racing here and they are still no match for where the Belgiums Mr Krabs were 2 years ago, I know the Krabs mouldings are lighter, but I don't know how much is the boat and how much the setup, those Belgians are the bomb and brave as hell, who runs nearly 58000RPM unloaded on an oval boat, that has to run for 5 minutes, do 20-26laps, and pulls it off?!

[nate]

Well I would imagine that the H&M hull would be better in many ways. The design on the Mr. Krabs is slightly diff, compare the two hull closely and you can tell the rear is way different. dimensions are different as well. Ill eventually buy one, this is my first rigger, so I didnt want to buy a very expensive hull just yet. Soon though.

[nate]

Alot of goodies just arrived from OSE! Thanks guys for the fast shipping jeezz haha

[785boats]

Nate.
Did you read about some of the problems we had when we first started playing with these hulls a year ago?
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1799833

Since then, to fix the rudder, I cut a length of 1/8" x 3/4" aluminium about 5" long & epoxied & glassed it along the inside of the hull with enough sticking out to mount the rudder bracket to. Carbon fibre plate would also do the trick.
I've also broken the booms again but I epoxied another carbon tube inside the new ones and a length of 5/32 piano wire inside that. A bit of extra weight maybe, but strong. I've hit a buoy or two since & they are still attached & straight.

I will proudly add that she came second in it's class last year. The winner was, of course, a JAE 21.

All the best.
Paul.

[nate]

Well guys, seems you get what you pay for, and this is so true. Whoever aligned and drilled the holes for the carbon rods where off a bit, causeing the sponsons to not sit flush, its aggravating. So looks like I need to figure up something. The right side sponson front edge sits up 5mm higher than the left side...ugh

[nate]

Here some of the progress, not much, waiting for more parts to arrive.
DSCN6147.jpg

[RaceMechaniX]

Nate,

Most heat racing riggers have the right side sponson with more inclination than the left. So this could be intentional. For SAW boats, symmetry is usually better.

TG

[785boats]

Nate.
While you are waiting for parts, I strongly suggest you beef up the rudder bracket, turn fin, & boom sleeve attachments in the sponsons. Something similar to those in the link I posted previously in post #13. They will fail. Also the booms.

Paul.

[nate]

Nate,

Most heat racing riggers have the right side sponson with more inclination than the left. So this could be intentional. For SAW boats, symmetry is usually better.

TG

Thanks bud, I did not know this, but it makes perfect sense, learning something everyday! I actually stayed up pretty late last night thinking of a simple way to level them, the only simple way to get them level, was to adjust one side of the carbon skid to get the desired ride pad height on the sponson, tighten it, the twist the other sponson in the opposite direction, then tighten it. Seemed easy, but.. without laying it on a flat surface, it was hard to get any other certain adjustment, aligned properly.

Nate.
While you are waiting for parts, I strongly suggest you beef up the rudder bracket, turn fin, & boom sleeve attachments in the sponsons. Something similar to those in the link I posted previously in post #13. They will fail. Also the booms.

Paul.

Yes, I going to get started pretty soon, I have a 2-4 week wait on the custom lehner motor, and I have not purchased the ESC yet, I can't quiet decide between the YGE, or Hifei model esc's.

As I am not local to any oval racing, Im not very interested in doing anything but straight away passes. So if you guys didn't see this just by the picture, notice the length between the hull and sponsons? The shorter the carbon rods are, the more strength and less flex. Figured I would try this. BTW, one of the props came in, an M440. The turn fin and bracket I will replace, thinking on the idea of using a carbon fiber panel to cut out the bracket, and epoxy/resin it to the sponson.

[nate]

I cut down 5" off of both carbon rod, there is 172-1/2mm (6.7") between the hull and sponson's.
DSCN6144.jpgDSCN6142.jpg

[nate]

Update. Waiting on a custom ordered Lehner motor is a wait and a half huh. Cut down 50mm 1/4 brass tubing for carbon rods, added strength!
DSCN6163.jpgDSCN6165.jpg

[NativePaul]

I've seen both Posseiden and Krabs sponsons ripped apart by buoy strikes and boats "rubbing" I wouldn't reinforce the rods myself, replacing rods adds no weight and is a lot less messy than epoxying sponsons back together.

[RaceMechaniX]

Agreed, you want the rods to be the weak point to give in a crash. Make the hollow tubes in the tub and sponsons robust, but leave the booms to break. Otherwise you run the risk of ripping a sponson apart or worse yet a tub.

TG

[kacordy]

Nate, here are some pictures of my Mr. Krabs. I hand built all the CF parts for the strut, rudder, turn fin, motor mount and battery mounts. CF is the way to go! I will convert to 6s this fall. Allen

[NativePaul]

Im debating a 6s 4500 in mine looks like it will work.

Just a note of caution Nate, the boats I mentioned running 6s 4500mAh are all running in the Naviga Hydro2 class which calls for a battery that is under 560grams, the 6s 4500 cells we use are low C cells usually 20C though some are now up to a stated 30C (probably BS, our old 20C cells tested to 14C), and the dr super evil was designed around them, my 6s 4500mAh hydro2 packs are a bout the same volume, a little longer but a fair bit shallower than a typical high C 4s 5000mAh pack, so if you are buying High C 6s packs for your SAWs runs you may well not be able to fit in as much capacity as we race with, double check battery dimensions with the space you have before purchasing, maybe making a cardboard dummy of a potential pack to try for fit.

[nate]

The lipo is that last thing on my list to order. I have thought about which lipo will fit snug. Im hoping my lehner motor shows up early this coming week. This will show me how much room I am left with after mounting. I talked to my local Hobby shop owner, we are going to take out a few boxed 6s lipos and see what will be the perfect fit.

I will only be running the boat for my own enjoyment, no racing.

Im looking at the flight power eon 50c 6s 5000mah, sitting side-ways in the hull might work. I will hopefully know soon! When I get everything ready I will report back with pictures for you guys!

[nate]

Few more pics I didn't get a chance to upload.
DSCN6168.jpgDSCN6167.jpg

[nate]

Had two 2s 5000mah hard packs laying around, figured I'd see how much space a 4s configuration would take up. Here's a few pics. Also, one question, I have only begun once in laying carbon fiber inlay in a hull, and never finished before I sold the hull, how much room will the carbon fiber and resin take up in the hull seeing its a good layer..will this effect anything?
DSCN6174.jpg DSCN6171.jpg DSCN6172.jpg DSCN6173.jpg

[nate]

Getting more ideas, Stock motor mount is gone!

DSCN6176.jpg DSCN6175.jpg

[Tomcandersen]

Has there been any more work done on this boat?

[Tree dude]

So I just got this boat how do you attach the riggers to the rods I see a thread but doesn't go thru rod