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Thread: Battery setup

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Ab
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    4

    Default Battery setup

    Hi Everyone, I am fairly new to the rc boat scene. Been running a geico24 in standard form for a while and just now got an impulse 31 v2. Little question I take it from the general blogs around that without upgrading the terminals etc and the fact that Proboat have changed their battery requirements that its best to run only 4 s and not 6s. Onto my main question, the wiring is setup for (2) 2s in series making 4s. Is it worthwhile changing this to parallel and running (2)4s would there be any reduction in amps available. Also if parallel is a possibility could I safely run (2) 5s in parallel on stock components. What is the general feeling on Turnigy nanotech batteries. One question turned into a few sorry about that. Any help appreciated.
    Last edited by jim Ball; 01-09-2014 at 04:28 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    AU
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    30

    Default

    Hi Jim Ball,

    Congratulations on the Impulse 31 V2, I really enjoy mine.

    I re-read your email tonight and I believe you might have edited your wording a little, as you appeared to have had you series and parallel mixed up on your original post. It makes more sense now.

    To answer your questions directly – You could change the wiring to be parallel and either run with a pair of 4s or 5s batteries. The stock motor and ESC would handle this. There would be no reduction in amps, as it is the motor which determines how much current is required, but you would have longer run times.

    But my suggestion would be to leave the wiring in series so you can run 4s (two 2s packs), 5s (one 2s and one 3s pack), or 6s (two 3s packs). My preference is the 5s. Having two batteries in parallel only increases your run time, but adds additional weight to your boat which will affect the setup and performance.

    My suggestion would be to upgrade all connectors to 5.5mm, on the battery, ECS and motor. Run with 5s (one 3s and one 2s pack).
    Run until the batteries are suitably low and then bring the boat in, check temps, replace batteries and go out again.

    Oh, and regarding the Nanotech batteries – many of the guys at my lake use them and think they are very good. They have a higher C rating then normal lipo batteries which can make your boat appear to have more punch from the standstill. This could also be due to the low battery weight for the high C rating.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    7,664

    Cool

    First look here, note the different boat versions:

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hlight=impulse

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hlight=impulse

    For the typical RTR with low (under 100 amps) draws the 'nanotech' packs will work fine. Be advised that most of my club members who have tried them in higher amp draw applications (150 amps plus) have either had nearly all their packs puff, or burst into flames. Two different boats burned them up in setups which were perfectly safe with Thunderpower 25C and Hyperion 35C packs. Here is one:

    Jim's Chink Packs 3.jpg

    Bottom line - do not trust the discharge values ("C" rating) which Turnigy lists for these packs.




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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Ab
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Hi Barbosa, thanks for the reply, yes I did have a bit of brain fade and got my series and parallel mixed up on the original post, info taken on board with ref the batteries, I hadn't realised you could run 2 batteries of different s value in series. Was going to upgrade the connectors to 5.5 when I sort out the batteries anyway, reading the blogs, I realised that was the way to go.

  5. #5
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    Jan 2014
    Location
    Ab
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    Default

    Hi Fluid, thanks for your input, so basically the nanotech packs would be fine for the hobby fun runner but when it starts to get a bit more serious, invest in better batteries. Also thanks for the links, interesting info.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    1,431

    Default

    while you can run a 2s and 3s pack of the same Mah and c rating to get 5 s i wouldn't recommend it, I had a 2 s pack puff and smoke while doing this, luckily it happened as i was untaping the hatch so the only loss was the battery.

    I think your idea of running parallel packs is fine and it's how I run most of my packs. My logic was more cells to pull power from so the packs would be stressed less. However, I know a well respected east coast racer that believed the extra cells trapped more heat and he preferred to run 2 s packs in set ups that didn't absolutely require a 4s2p set up.

    I have done many logged runs using 2 2s 5000 mah 40c packs in series and two 4s 2600 mah packs 65 c in parallel. I saw slightly less voltage sag under load from the 4s packs but we're talking half volts.

    You should be able to run 5s with the stock system but keep in mind the prop you use on 4s is likely too big for 5s use.

    As for batteries I believe Mark from Dinogy lipo has some of the best cells on the market at the time. I believe he has set up some overseas distributors so you wont get hit as bad with shipping cost.

    you can check out his site at www.dinogylipos.com for a general idea on prices and you could also email him to find out more about international orders.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Ab
    Posts
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    Default

    Thanks Shaughnessy, after a long thought I think I will def go parallel to get the better run time. Haven't quite made my mind up yet about batteries but will probably start with 4s till I get a bit more knowledge then progress up to 5s. And I will upgrade all terminals to 5.5. Have made a note of Dinogy and will get my 5s batteries from I think. Thanks All for your input, helped a lot.

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