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Thread: TFL Ariane CF and FG hulls

  1. #31
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    Hi Paul,

    Thank you for pointing out the slight hook of your Ariane hull! I will keep this point in mind and remind our workers pay attention to this!

    Monica Smith
    When we are no longer able to change a situation, we are challenged to change ourselves.
    Email: monicagong76@qq.com

  2. #32
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    I'm glad to say that it's not anywhere near as bad as some that I've had to deal with, & I don't believe it upsets the handling at all.
    All the best.
    Paul.

  3. #33
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    I managed to get a 6s run in on the weekend, thanks to the guys at the North Coast club up at Sippy Downs. Great bunch of Modelers.
    This was it's first run with a 446/3 cut down to a 443 & de-tongued. Other runs on the day were with the full 446/3 & it was certainly quicker & just as stable.
    The temps were still fine so I'll try the 447/3 next time. I'm hoping to work up to a 450/3 as a race set up.


  4. #34
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    Sweet running boat, I love mine! Are you still running stock turn fins? If you are, build some about 2 1/2 times the size and it will get rid of the flopping on hard cornering. Made a big difference in mine.......

  5. #35
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    Thanks.
    Yep. Still the stock fins. I do have the next size up on order. But 2 1/2 times the stock ones would have them dragging in the water along the straights. The ones on mine are 2 3/4" long. The size I have on order are 4" & I'll have to lay them back a bit to keep them out of the water in the straights. Maybe yours came with smaller fins than mine, originaly.

    Cheers.
    Paul.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
    Thanks.
    Yep. Still the stock fins. I do have the next size up on order. But 2 1/2 times the stock ones would have them dragging in the water along the straights. The ones on mine are 2 3/4" long. The size I have on order are 4" & I'll have to lay them back a bit to keep them out of the water in the straights. Maybe yours came with smaller fins than mine, originaly.

    Cheers.
    Paul.
    LOL Not quite that long, they're not in the water on the straights.The ones mine came with are 2 5/8" total and only about 1 3/4" in the water on turns. They were those little tear drop shaped ones. I finally got the motor I wanted, I just put a Neu 1527 1Y 1250kv in it. Haven't tried it yet but it should run good.

  7. #37
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    I've only got one of those 1527 1Y motors & it's staying in my 1/8 scale hydro. The TP Power 1350kv motor is the next best thing that I have so that will stay in the Ariane.
    What prop are you figuring to settle on?

  8. #38
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    It's odd hearing setups from Aus area because yo run 1P only setups. How many cells do you run the 1527 1Y on in a 1/8th scale??
    Nortavlag Bulc

  9. #39
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    Yep 1p limits our prop sizes a bit if we don't want to kill the packs regularly.
    I'm running 8s with a 446/3 prop. Mine's the U-95.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by 785boats; 09-03-2014 at 03:40 PM.

  10. #40
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    Very cool, thanks for sharing.

    Just flipped out of the wheelchair, that hurts... so does getting back in again... I feel old.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
    I've only got one of those 1527 1Y motors & it's staying in my 1/8 scale hydro. The TP Power 1350kv motor is the next best thing that I have so that will stay in the Ariane.
    What prop are you figuring to settle on?
    I'm guessing it's going to be about a X448 or maybe a X648. I've got a 1/8 scale sport hydro but I'm running a bit more power than yours, it's got a Leopard 5698 910kv on 10s......

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    Very cool, thanks for sharing.

    Just flipped out of the wheelchair, that hurts... so does getting back in again... I feel old.
    Easy man. How did you manage that?
    I'm always amazed at your boating skills considering what you have to put up with. Take care.

    flraptor.

    The X448 sounds like a good prop. But I find that the '6' pitch props have a bit too much lift for a mono. Maybe the water is different in Oz
    I bought a 5698 1100kv motor to run in my 1/8th, but I couldn't fit the ESC in then. Very limited space in the front of mine.
    Last edited by 785boats; 01-14-2014 at 02:08 AM.

  13. #43
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    flraptor.

    The X448 sounds like a good prop. But I find that the '6' pitch props have a bit too much lift for a mono. Maybe the water is different in Oz
    I bought a 5698 1100kv motor to run in my 1/8th, but I couldn't fit the ESC in then. Very limited space in the front of mine.[/QUOTE]

    The 6 pitch props you tried on the mono, were they detounged ? I'm sure you know that detounging will take lift out of the prop

  14. #44
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    Come to think of it, I'm not sure if the ones I tried were the 'M' series or de-tongued. It was a while ago.
    I guess I should try a few.

  15. #45
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    Building up one of these at the moment. Got a Swordfish 240 for it and a TP Pro comp 1690kv. Going to run 2 x 3s batts. I too have the stock turn fins...... You guys say go bigger? Seems the sharp end fins are bad mouthed by some..... You guys using flat bottom ones? What motor mounting solutions you guys using for the bigger motors. The TP is 40mm so.... Can't use the rear 36mm mounting ring that came in mine. Was just going to support the motor at the back with a bit of ply etc glued to the hull, along with the 36mm front end which'll fit the TP.
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  16. #46
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    I'm very interested in the boat. It might be my next project. One ignorant question:

    I have number of 4S batteries about, but no 2S batts of the appropriate capacity. Is this hull too small to build up with an 8S setup? If not, what motor Kv and prop would you experienced folk recommend?

    Thanks.
    Revolt 30 (2x), Southampton Tug, Outcast 6S BLX, 8ight-E, Ten-SCBE, 22 2.0, AX10 II.
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  17. #47
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    Didn't notice these last couple of posts. Sorry that no one answered you guys.

    IRON-PAWW.
    I've changed my turn fins to larger ones & cut the bottoms off to make them flat. They certainly hold better in the corners.
    You can buy a single 40mm ring & make upa couple of brackets T glass them into the hull.
    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ose-80600-RC
    Or one of these with the brackets already made.
    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-83005

    Skeeler.
    This hull is probably a bit small for 8s but it is doable. maybe a 4082 with a kv around 1100- 1250.

    Here's mine on 6s with a 1600kv motor & an X646/3 blade prop with a Seaking 180A ESC. Still testng at the moment.


  18. #48
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    That's lookin pretty good, did you do any work to the prop other than S&B?

  19. #49
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    Thanks for your reply. Yeah, I figured 8S would be overkill.
    Revolt 30 (2x), Southampton Tug, Outcast 6S BLX, 8ight-E, Ten-SCBE, 22 2.0, AX10 II.
    '95 Miata, '09 Miata.
    Ibanez SRSC805, SR1305, BTB33, SR500, and S771PB; Gibson SG Standard Bass.

  20. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by flraptor07 View Post
    That's lookin pretty good, did you do any work to the prop other than S&B?
    I only backcut it about 1mm at the hub. Might de-tongue it a bit next.

  21. #51
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    Ok - ran it for the first time the other day. Tp Pro Comp 4060 1690kv. 6s. 2 x 3s Entropy 5800's mounted either side of motor. RCBB dual pickup rudder, which is the same length as the stock rudder. Single drive cable. The problem I have is that once I get up a little speed the boat leans (rolls) to the right. Gets slightly worse as it goes faster but not drastically so. Noted the rudder was slightly angled in toward the transom - could that cause the roll?? Ran it with M445 as a first run test. Tried a 3 blade prop another club member had with no change to the roll effect. Suggestions?
    PERTH AUSTRALIA
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  22. #52
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    I have one of these hulls (It's my Avatar Picture) and I experience the same problem when getting up to speed. The back end wants to wobble around and lean back and forth when getting up to about 55mph - 60 mph. Any suggestions from those of you who seem to have figured that out? I put a slower system in it to tame it but I want SPEED!!! HA HAAAAAAAAA
    Lot Boyz Racing and Marine Team...Get Hype!
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  23. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by msundsd5 View Post
    I have one of these hulls (It's my Avatar Picture) and I experience the same problem when getting up to speed. The back end wants to wobble around and lean back and forth when getting up to about 55mph - 60 mph. Any suggestions from those of you who seem to have figured that out? I put a slower system in it to tame it but I want SPEED!!! HA HAAAAAAAAA
    I have mine set up with a TP 4070 1770kv on 6s 2p one pack on each side of the motor and about 1/2 ahead with a SF 240 pro+ in the middle just ahead of the motor running a Prather 230 stainless which is a little over 48.5mm. I have the stock trim tabs with the inside pair set neutral and the outside pair about 1deg. down and I put some Aquacraft Rio 51 turn fins on it and the stinger is set neutral also. With that setup it runs a little over 65mph GPS and it runs like its on rails with no wobbleing or leaning, it's one of my favorite boats.

  24. #54
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    Hi guys.
    That is known as Chine Walking. A lot of boats with the flat ride pad can do that.
    I have some slight positive angle on the strut to help plant he rear of the boat. About one degree is all.
    The leading edge of the rudder angled back a couple of degrees.
    The outside trim tabs have the trailing edges touching a straight edge that is held along the bottom of the hull.
    The inside trim tabs are parallel with the straight edge.
    COG is at 270mm 11-1/2") from the transom.
    The turn fins I replaced with larger ones and cut the bottoms off. But that was to help in the turns. Nothing to do with Chine Walk. The fins should be out of the water in the straights.
    Scuff the shine off the bottom of the hull with some 400 paper.
    And make sure the prop is thin & sharp. If it won't cut your finger it won't cut the water. A blunt prop goes a long way to starting the whole Chine Walk oscillation thing.

    I'm not saying that those things will work on your boats, but it works on mine. Each boat is different & you will still have to tune it a bit to match your weight, prop & revs etc.
    I hope other boaters chime in with some set up tips too.
    A quick pic of the inside of mine & the transom if it's any help. Although the pics are deceiving in regards to the rudder blade. It actually leans back a bit more than it seems in the pics.
    Cheers.
    Paul.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  25. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by flraptor07 View Post
    I have mine set up with a TP 4070 1770kv on 6s 2p one pack on each side of the motor and about 1/2 ahead with a SF 240 pro+ in the middle just ahead of the motor running a Prather 230 stainless which is a little over 48.5mm. I have the stock trim tabs with the inside pair set neutral and the outside pair about 1deg. down and I put some Aquacraft Rio 51 turn fins on it and the stinger is set neutral also. With that setup it runs a little over 65mph GPS and it runs like its on rails with no wobbleing or leaning, it's one of my favorite boats.
    Looks like you posted while I was taking the pics of the transom. Very similar set ups. /
    Except you have the extra weight of two packs Most likely the reason for the difference in Strut angle.

  26. #56
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    Ok- my issue isn't chine walking. My Spartan does that in spades so I'm very familiar with it :). My issue is more like torque roll. At rest the boat sits perfectly. Slower speeds no issue. When I start to pick up a little speed the boat begins to lean to the right hand side, and stays leaning to the right hand side until I slow down. Now - will a rudder that slopes in toward the transom cause this? So - the tip of the rudder is closer to the transom than say at the hinge? I noticed mine was slightly angled this way - now I have it set pretty much as 785 shows in his pic. But not tested yet with that change made.
    PERTH AUSTRALIA
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  27. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
    Looks like you posted while I was taking the pics of the transom. Very similar set ups. /
    Except you have the extra weight of two packs Most likely the reason for the difference in Strut angle.
    Yes Paul, our trim tab settings are identical and I'm sure you're right about the stinger setting being because of the packs. What prop are you running?

  28. #58
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    IRON-PAWW.
    I guess the Chine walk description was aimed more at msndsd5.
    But your torque roll problem could also be the prop. As I recall the M445 props are pretty thick out of the mould & require quite a lot of thinning while sharpening & balancing them. Thick props blunt can cause a lot of torque roll.
    With the rudder, when viewed from behind the boat, is it perfectly vertical with the vertical centre line of the boat? A rudder angled sideways can cause a boat to lean a bit. It doesn't take much.
    It's best if the rudders' leading edge is level with the front of the prop too. This can have some effect on negating torque steer & roll.
    The only other thing is the trim tabs. Are they the same on both sides of the boat when measured with a straight edge on the bottom of the hull? If so, maybe screw down the right hand tab a fraction more.
    If all the above are fine & true & level etc you could try balancing the hull with the batteries.
    If your packs are either side of the motor maybe move the right hand battery in as close as possible to the keel & the left one out a bit to help counteract the roll.
    I can't think of anything else.


    flraptor.
    The X446/3 blade prop is still the best one for my setup. Finishes the race with between 28-32% left in the pack. Sort of just enough for a penalty lap if I jump the start.
    Thanks for reminding me. I need to de-tongue it before practice on Sunday. Just to see how much difference it makes. Hopefully it will gain a bit of speed & put a few milliamps back in the tank

    Cheers.
    Paul.

  29. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by 785boats View Post
    IRON-PAWW.


    flraptor.
    The X446/3 blade prop is still the best one for my setup. Finishes the race with between 28-32% left in the pack. Sort of just enough for a penalty lap if I jump the start.
    Thanks for reminding me. I need to de-tongue it before practice on Sunday. Just to see how much difference it makes. Hopefully it will gain a bit of speed & put a few milliamps back in the tank

    Cheers.
    Paul.
    Yeah now that you mention it I remember we talked about de-tongueing before and you said you were going to try it for a little speed and to take some lift out. The old brain still does work a little...

  30. #60
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    Thank you so much fellas, this is some very useful information. I will be trying some things over the next couple weeks so I will chime back in on this thread in a couple weeks to let you know how it's going! Your awesome! I have been trying to get this boat to ride right for Sooooooooo longer and it seems to be on the only boat of mine not in the 60's, 70's, 80's, or 90's.... Highest I got it up to was 58 mph before I threw in the tile cause I needed a break from it. I LOVE the hull and am excited to get back at it again!!!
    Lot Boyz Racing and Marine Team...Get Hype!
    CF Shocker Twin - 93.4mph / CF Daytona Single - 80.2mph
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