what motor for a cf cheetah?

[kfxguy]

What motor should I run? I have a 1515 castle 2200kv and a 4082 leopard. If I need to get something bigger, let me know. I prefer castle motors. You have one you wanna sell let me know. Im not worried about esc.....ill get one that's over kill. I wanna do at least 70mph.

[srislash]

That will be a task with a Cheetah. The 1515 is a bit small but a 4082-92 will be good. I think the sponson mod may be necessary for over 60.

[kfxguy]

That will be a task with a Cheetah. The 1515 is a bit small but a 4082-92 will be good. I think the sponson mod may be necessary for over 60.

Sponson mod? What castle motor do you recommend. I don't really care for leopard motors.

[steveo]

The only castle motors that would work are 1518, 1520 which are hard to find or the bigger 1717 found on ebay from the traxxas xo-1 car. Nothing wrong with the leopards similair quality and performance

[srislash]

The only castle motors that would work are 1518, 1520 which are hard to find or the bigger 1717 found on ebay from the traxxas xo-1 car. Nothing wrong with the leopards similair quality and performance

I was gonna suggest the same. To give you an idea, a 1518 is 82mm long and 1800kv and a 1520 is 88mm and 1500 kv.
TP has some nice motors as well, they Are my second choice.

[srislash]

Sponson mod? What castle motor do you recommend. I don't really care for leopard motors.

And the sponson mod is to take that built in trim tab out of the rear step on the bottom of the ride pad.

[kfxguy]

All those motors mentioned I can't find except for the 1717 motor. Is this motor overkill?

[srislash]

Nope. It would work great. Should be able to put a decent prop on with those hulls wide as they are.
Might have to get a bit custom with a mount so it fits under the hatch. But... Nothing is impossible.

[T.S.Davis]

There's a ton of room in there for a 1717. I ran a 2215/1y in mine.

On the sponon. Basically the last ride pads angle of attack is too steep. It needs to be sanded flat so that it's close to parallel with the pad ahead of it. Otherwise they run like a manta ray with the nose down and the tail chasing it. Most have enough flesh in the pads to do it without adding anything in side but if it gets to thin you'll want to add some material on the interior.

[SirBudman32]

I have a Cheetah that I'm working on also. I'm running a Leopard 4092 2080 and a Swordfish 240 in mine. Here are a couple of pics of what is meant by sponson mod. If you hold a straight edge on the sponsons you will see the rear sponson is not even with the first two. I started with Bondo and wound up sanding most of it off as it is Talcum power based. went with Dura Glass which is not and doesn't hold moister like Bondo does. I am then finishing with Icing to get it smooth.


IMG_20131108_091444 (2).jpgIMG_20131108_091504.jpgIMG_20131108_091513.jpgIMG_20131108_091611.jpgIMG_20131108_091623.jpg

[kfxguy]

And the sponson mod is to take that built in trim tab out of the rear step on the bottom of the ride pad.

Boat will be here tomorrow so ill look and see what your talking about. What if I get an x-01 speed control and convert it to water cooling? Could I run that on 5s or 6s you think with the x-01 motor?

[srislash]

Boat will be here tomorrow so ill look and see what your talking about. What if I get an x-01 speed control and convert it to water cooling? Could I run that on 5s or 6s you think with the x-01 motor?

I doubt it. Car Esc's are built for short little amp burst'. A 1717 will pull a solid 180 amps with a big wheel.

[kfxguy]

I doubt it. Car Esc's are built for short little amp burst'. A 1717 will pull a solid 180 amps with a big wheel.

Well a mamba monster 2 like I have is rated for 120a continuous and im sure the x-01 esc is rated for more. I guess that doesnt matter tho....I can't find one. The esc im getting should handle it but ima make sure beforehand. I already have a 4082 leopard do I may try it first. Im having a feeling the castle I have is gonna do better tho. Just got my new gps in so ill do some testing sunday. Boat should be here tomorrow so ill see if I get get it together real quick and see. May have some gps issues because its a cf hull.

[kfxguy]

Ok I just looked at the TP motors for sale here on ose. They look nice. Are they as good or better than leopard? So now my choices are:

Leopard 4092
Castle 1717
Or
TP 4060 (40mm x 92mm)

Which motor you think and what kv to run 6s?

[srislash]

I would go with the TP around 1600kv give or take.

[properchopper]

Wow, I'm sure glad someone thinks a sponson mod may be necessary 'cause my Cheetah with untouched sponsons feels deprived. I'll get busy hacking them up forthwith -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cl5ebHR6wR4

[kfxguy]

Wow, I'm sure glad someone thinks a sponson mod may be necessary 'cause my Cheetah with untouched sponsons feels deprived. I'll get busy hacking them up forthwith -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cl5ebHR6wR4

Are you being serious or sarcastic?

[Fluid]

Tony's Cheetah is ballistic with the factory stock ride surfaces.


.

[T.S.Davis]

Mine wouldn't even plane.

[madmikepags]

they probably have more than one mould and they might be a little different from each other, I have had the same problem with .90 sprintcats, i've built 7 or 8 of them and 2 of them just wouldn't work. For the motor, how many cells are you running? For 4 cell a NEU 1521/1.5d I've had my DF cyberstorm at 70 mph and it is a heavy heavy boat, for 6 cell I always say a 1527/1Y but for more power use a 1530/1.5d 100 more kv and a good amount more power!!!!

[properchopper]

This whole "sponson mod" issue has me scratching my head. It apparently was first brought up by a very well respected FE gentleman who, to put it simply knows his stuff and had a plowing hull which he cured by reducing the AoA of the rear step. Likewise, Terry is highly experienced (way more than me) and I trust his take without question. What cornfuses me is that I built two fairly identical untouched sponson Cheetahs which exhibited no such issues. I'm at a loss to come up with an explanation other than :

1] Like Mike put forth, there may be two molds; one with an incorrect rear sponson AoA and a "good one" like mine

DSC05093.JPG

2] My boat airs out because I run a single motor on 4S2P and the 6S boats that seem to run too wet weigh more

3] Twins are even heavier plus there's twice the prop lift which raises the stern and lowers the bow

As far as motor choice for a 6S single motor rig, one possible choice is the TP Power 4060 4Y 1450KV motor which should get the hull in the sixties propped correctly

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...p-4060&cat=181

I'll go out on a limb here (violating my principle of posting what I think rather than what I've personally experienced) BUT as what could be charitably described as a widebody hull, the Cheetah may readily take flight as speeds are pushed past the low to mid sixties. Mine's capable of powering/propping way past it's current speed (right around 60mph) but I'd rather drive than row

[kfxguy]

Anyone got a big motor they wanna sell? 1500-1800kv

[properchopper]

[kfxguy]

What's that for? You should reply with a quote so people will know who and what you are referring to.

[keithbradley]

Tony's Cheetah runs great.

The twin versions of these that I have built have ran quite well, with no plowing issues (no sponson mod). This is the first twin that I built for Ben, running on only 5s 1600kv (maiden run):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLQ2iAtrqCo

The only issue I've personally had with excessive "wetting" is on twins with large props, when letting off the throttle hard. That's more a condition of excessive lift/drag from the big props. I think it may be possible that there are some inconsistencies with these hulls. Perhaps a group of them that were produced in a certain time period have a variation in bottom design...

As far as speed, I've ran the cheetah into the upper 70s, but I wouldn't recommend it. It takes too much power to do so, much more than it would take a boat that is intended for higher speeds. If a straight-line speed demon is what you're looking for, the Cheetah is far from the best choice. A 60mph setup like Tony's is perfect for this hull, and they are a load of fun that way. It's a large hull for 4s in my opinion (I've ran the cheetah on as high as 16s.lol), but it would be silly to say it can't be run on 4s, as Tony is doing it and doing it quite well. Setting a Cheetah up for ultimate speed would be comparable to taking a circle track car to the drag strip.

You can try to see how fast you can go with a Cheetah, but I can assure you that your efforts would be more rewarding if you set this one up to run ovals, and save the speed chasing for a more suitable hull.

[T.S.Davis]

Tony, your hulls' bottom does look different than mine. I wonder if they were modified after the initial offering from Fightercat.

One of my club mates was trying to run one on 4s spec power and there was no way. It was just a snow plow.

After the mods I was running at or around 65 in heat water but with the loss of the material at the edge of the ride pad the turning suffered. You had to really focus to get it through a turn or it would hook bad. Sort of like driving a tunnel boat. A scream to go straight with though.

I have brought this to the attention of TFL who makes the hulls. They're looking into modifying the molds to ensure that the last pad is parallel to the pad ahead of it.

[kfxguy]

Tony's Cheetah runs great.

The twin versions of these that I have built have ran quite well, with no plowing issues (no sponson mod). This is the first twin that I built for Ben, running on only 5s 1600kv (maiden run):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLQ2iAtrqCo

The only issue I've personally had with excessive "wetting" is on twins with large props, when letting off the throttle hard. That's more a condition of excessive lift/drag from the big props. I think it may be possible that there are some inconsistencies with these hulls. Perhaps a group of them that were produced in a certain time period have a variation in bottom design...

As far as speed, I've ran the cheetah into the upper 70s, but I wouldn't recommend it. It takes too much power to do so, much more than it would take a boat that is intended for higher speeds. If a straight-line speed demon is what you're looking for, the Cheetah is far from the best choice. A 60mph setup like Tony's is perfect for this hull, and they are a load of fun that way. It's a large hull for 4s in my opinion (I've ran the cheetah on as high as 16s.lol), but it would be silly to say it can't be run on 4s, as Tony is doing it and doing it quite well. Setting a Cheetah up for ultimate speed would be comparable to taking a circle track car to the drag strip.

You can try to see how fast you can go with a Cheetah, but I can assure you that your efforts would be more rewarding if you set this one up to run ovals, and save the speed chasing for a more suitable hull.

What hull for straightline speed would you recommend? I also send you some $$ and check your email please.

[kfxguy]

Tony, your hulls' bottom does look different than mine. I wonder if they were modified after the initial offering from Fightercat.

One of my club mates was trying to run one on 4s spec power and there was no way. It was just a snow plow.

After the mods I was running at or around 65 in heat water but with the loss of the material at the edge of the ride pad the turning suffered. You had to really focus to get it through a turn or it would hook bad. Sort of like driving a tunnel boat. A scream to go straight with though.

I have brought this to the attention of TFL who makes the hulls. They're looking into modifying the molds to ensure that the last pad is parallel to the pad ahead of it.

Ill check mine tonight.

[properchopper]

Tony, your hulls' bottom does look different than mine. I wonder if they were modified after the initial offering from Fightercat.

One of my club mates was trying to run one on 4s spec power and there was no way. It was just a snow plow.

After the mods I was running at or around 65 in heat water but with the loss of the material at the edge of the ride pad the turning suffered. You had to really focus to get it through a turn or it would hook bad. Sort of like driving a tunnel boat. A scream to go straight with though.

I have brought this to the attention of TFL who makes the hulls. They're looking into modifying the molds to ensure that the last pad is parallel to the pad ahead of it.

Terry,

While your at it in your discussion with TFL, how about suggesting adjusting the length to 34" instead of 34.25" for the P-Offshore (or P-Cat) folks - it could then run in either P or Q. Makes sense.

BTW I worried about potential hooking so I went with a "largish" rudder & a 1/4" skeg strut stepped to 3/16".

Turns right nicely but struggles ever so slightly on lefts

DSC05100.JPG

[T.S.Davis]

It's so close to a Sprint cat that I never thought about running it on 4s. I also butchered the rear end on mine to give it a little different look.

CHEETAH.jpg

I have a giant rudder too. I have a 1/4" drive and started with the skeg but sawed it off before I shaved the bottom trying to free it up.

It was getting pretty good until Freddy ran me over.