carbon fiber inlay

[Darin Jordan]

Good Work on the water cooling plate...

It looks like more work than it's worth, however... For those without a mill, I used one of these to convert my Mamba Max Pro ESCs to water cooling. For the price, I just couldn't justify firing up my own mill.... They are only $5.95... plus shipping, of course...


http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80674

[Fella1340]

Its still a lot nicer. Plus the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Sure beats sitting in front of the tv waiting for the mailman to come!
Keep the boat refit rolling!

[kfxguy]

Good Work on the water cooling plate...

It looks like more work than it's worth, however... For those without a mill, I used one of these to convert my Mamba Max Pro ESCs to water cooling. For the price, I just couldn't justify firing up my own mill.... They are only $5.95... plus shipping, of course...


http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80674

I know lol. I saw those and its cheap.....but I had to order...wait and then do something with the orange color that didn't match. Plus mine has more capacity lol.

[kfxguy]

Its still a lot nicer. Plus the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Sure beats sitting in front of the tv waiting for the mailman to come!
Keep the boat refit rolling!

Agreed 100%! :)

[tiqueman]

Looking good Travis. Keep it up.

Something for all to consider while laying carbon, and I say this because I have now fixed 2 boats for people whom have purchased so called "carbon inlayed boats" off of others from the forum, one of which I was able to pull almost all the carbon out by hand within an hour. Carbon fiber will not allow resin to soak thru and wet out nearly as easily as standard cloth will. It is much easier if you wet out the entire surface of the hull with thin even layer of a quality resin and THEN lay in the carbon, then wet out again from above as needed. Ive seen too many now where people slop it in and absolute dry spots can be found in the cf and its not even close to bonding in some areas of the hull. Wetting out the hull first guarantees full saturation and its very easy to blot out any extra resin to keep it as light and strong as possible. Don't be afraid to put gloves on and get in there and work things around. You need to be cautious not to disturb the strands but you can still easily work it and make sure all areas are pressed into the hull completely. Then blot over with a brush, roller, sponge, whatever technique you prefer and make her look pretty. Keep your gloves on, go back in when you think your all done and I bet youll find some areas that shifted and have air under them. Press out using your fingers or a tool if need be, check it 20 times and let it dry. Just my .02 of doing over 100 cf lay ups. And really more so thought Id chime in because of the two BAD hulls Ive had to completely gut for customers and repair here all due to horrible cf inlays.

[kfxguy]

Looking good Travis. Keep it up.

Something for all to consider while laying carbon, and I say this because I have now fixed 2 boats for people whom have purchased so called "carbon inlayed boats" off of others from the forum, one of which I was able to pull almost all the carbon out by hand within an hour. Carbon fiber will not allow resin to soak thru and wet out nearly as easily as standard cloth will. It is much easier if you wet out the entire surface of the hull with thin even layer of a quality resin and THEN lay in the carbon, then wet out again from above as needed. Ive seen too many now where people slop it in and absolute dry spots can be found in the cf and its not even close to bonding in some areas of the hull. Wetting out the hull first guarantees full saturation and its very easy to blot out any extra resin to keep it as light and strong as possible. Don't be afraid to put gloves on and get in there and work things around. You need to be cautious not to disturb the strands but you can still easily work it and make sure all areas are pressed into the hull completely. Then blot over with a brush, roller, sponge, whatever technique you prefer and make her look pretty. Keep your gloves on, go back in when you think your all done and I bet youll find some areas that shifted and have air under them. Press out using your fingers or a tool if need be, check it 20 times and let it dry. Just my .02 of doing over 100 cf lay ups. And really more so thought Id chime in because of the two BAD hulls Ive had to completely gut for customers and repair here all due to horrible cf inlays.

Hmmm....mine might end up being that way. I didn't wet mine out because from past experience I've found its a pita to do that and then try to move the cf cloth around if you don't lay it straight. I dunno. I did put forth extra effort to make sure the resin soaked in and the resin I use is pretty thin....as in it pours really easy and will soak through easily. I blot it with a paint brush a lot and then came back with the foam roller last. I dunno....ill have to see....cuz I know this thing is gonna get flipped a few times lol. If it comes out.....well lesson learned and ill try it again! You do have a good point for sure and ill absolutely agree.

[kfxguy]

Here's an update on my motor mount. Servo mount from ose came in today too.

20131101_224644.jpg

I need some ideas fellas. I bought the billet servo mount. Its supposed to bolt down but im really against drilling holes in my hull....what else? I tried to make some little plates and put t nuts in them....but that didn't work out well. I may try that again or lay down several layers of cf with t nuts in them and vaccum bag it.


Actually I think I have the answer. Thin wooden plate cut a little bigger than the servo mount. Laminate with one layer of cf and then drill it to fit t nuts. Epoxy to hull. Now mount will screw to that without putting holes in my hull. Good idea?

[tiqueman]

Sounds like it'll work well to me.

Back to inlays real quick. It can be done the way travis has done his. You just have to be sure you have complete saturation. Its just easier in my findings and a guarantee its all soaked doing it the way I suggest above. If you lay it in crooked, pull it out or carefully slide it. I've done both succesfully. Bottom line, don't be afraid of it.

Travis don't assume yours isn't adhered correctly. Usually the tunnels are all soaked becaus its easy to get to and work. Its the tunnel sides and hull sides that I normally see most error.

[keithbradley]

Looking good Travis. Keep it up.

Something for all to consider while laying carbon, and I say this because I have now fixed 2 boats for people whom have purchased so called "carbon inlayed boats" off of others from the forum, one of which I was able to pull almost all the carbon out by hand within an hour. Carbon fiber will not allow resin to soak thru and wet out nearly as easily as standard cloth will. It is much easier if you wet out the entire surface of the hull with thin even layer of a quality resin and THEN lay in the carbon, then wet out again from above as needed. Ive seen too many now where people slop it in and absolute dry spots can be found in the cf and its not even close to bonding in some areas of the hull. Wetting out the hull first guarantees full saturation and its very easy to blot out any extra resin to keep it as light and strong as possible. Don't be afraid to put gloves on and get in there and work things around. You need to be cautious not to disturb the strands but you can still easily work it and make sure all areas are pressed into the hull completely. Then blot over with a brush, roller, sponge, whatever technique you prefer and make her look pretty. Keep your gloves on, go back in when you think your all done and I bet youll find some areas that shifted and have air under them. Press out using your fingers or a tool if need be, check it 20 times and let it dry. Just my .02 of doing over 100 cf lay ups. And really more so thought Id chime in because of the two BAD hulls Ive had to completely gut for customers and repair here all due to horrible cf inlays.

^^^^^Totally agree with this guy ^^^^^

It's really not that hard to do it the right way either. There's no reason to do it any other way!

[keithbradley]

Here's an update on my motor mount. Servo mount from ose came in today too.

20131101_224644.jpg

I need some ideas fellas. I bought the billet servo mount. Its supposed to bolt down but im really against drilling holes in my hull....what else? I tried to make some little plates and put t nuts in them....but that didn't work out well. I may try that again or lay down several layers of cf with t nuts in them and vaccum bag it.


Actually I think I have the answer. Thin wooden plate cut a little bigger than the servo mount. Laminate with one layer of cf and then drill it to fit t nuts. Epoxy to hull. Now mount will screw to that without putting holes in my hull. Good idea?

Drill baby, drill!

Don't be scared to cut, drill, etc. It's an entry-level mentality and It's only going to hold you back. I'm not sure what your background is, but the more you get comfortable with removing limitations like this, the better your work will be.

[Wetter]

i think kfxguy is doing awesome trial and error, NASA anyone!
damn i like this class to

[kfxguy]

Drill baby, drill!

Don't be scared to cut, drill, etc. It's an entry-level mentality and It's only going to hold you back. I'm not sure what your background is, but the more you get comfortable with removing limitations like this, the better your work will be.

My experience is pretty good I'd say the problem I have with drilling is a couple things. First thing is a nut and screw through a weak thin material like I working with leads me to believe that it can get cracked there easily if I flip it. And flip it I will lol. It also is a weak spot in my opinion. Could be a possible leak (not that concerned with that) also I like to change things a lot. If I drill those holes then decide to use a different mount...then I have holes to fill. Which I don't like doing. Can I? Yes, but I don't like it. I know you wont see the nuts when the boat is in the water but I feel like leaving nuts hanging (whoa did I say that? Lmao) on the bottom of a hull is like drilling through a quarter panel on a car and seeing the bolts/nuts. I feel like its just not right lol.

Call me crazy, but im just weird about some things lol.

[kfxguy]

I forgot. When I drill through the hull I like to have a plate or something on each side to distribute the stress more evenly. A plate on the bottom just wouldn't be right. Washers aren't enough support in my opinion. This is just my past experience speaking but I am new to boats. Anyone ever experienced a crack at a drilled hole?

[Fella1340]

Hey Kfxguy, I would stick with doing what your comfortable with. I'm not sure what this entry level
mentality is about and how its supposedly holding you back? Whatever, keep up the good work and have fun!

[keithbradley]

I hope you didn't take my post the wrong way...it wasn't meant to be abrasive. To clarify, I wasn't suggesting that the OP has an entry level mentality...I'm saying that being scared to drill holes in a boat is something that people who are new to building typically possess. That doesn't mean that kfxguy's abilities are typecast into some generalization that I didn't mean to imply...

I wouldn't put nuts on the bottom of a hull either, that would look pretty bad in my opinion. Stainless button head allen screws that thread into the piece you are making (up from the bottom) is another story though.

Typically, bolting something to the hull will, if anything, strengthen it by spreading the load out.
I would compare bolting things through the side of the sponson to bolting things to a fender. Bolting things to the tunnel is more like bolting things to the tunnel in a car, which is something that is regularly done and accepted. Would you rather crash in a car that had the seat belts epoxied in?

[keithbradley]

I forgot. When I drill through the hull I like to have a plate or something on each side to distribute the stress more evenly. A plate on the bottom just wouldn't be right. Washers aren't enough support in my opinion. This is just my past experience speaking but I am new to boats. Anyone ever experienced a crack at a drilled hole?

Yes, I have had one crack. On a 28.5lb. boat with 7lbs of ESC and wiring mounted to a CF plate bolted to the tunnel, held in by (4) 8-32 stainless allens. It was a bulletproof HPR layup, one that you could stand on without worry. In a bad crash, it split the top side of the hull part way up, the seam split most of the way down the hull, it cracked vertically in about the center of the hatch opening and continued down the side and under the sponson, as it would if you just broke the boat in half. However, it stopped when it got close to the tunnel.
In the tunnel area, There were a couple cracks next to the bolts that held the ESCs in, but I think that the additional plate in the tunnel kept the boat from breaking in two pieces, and my $3k+ worth of electronics off of the bottom of the lake.

I'm not in favor of drilling unnecessary holes just for kicks, but if something needs to be bolted for strength, you will either do it now, or you will eventually figure out that you need to do it later. I'm sorry if this comes off the wrong way guys, just trying to help.

[tiqueman]

I think keith was just saying that in general, someone (not specifically travis) who is new to modifying or building boats is often hesitant to drill holes, slots for stuffing tubes, even adhering a motor mount for the first time because they fear doing it wrong. The more you just say "what's the worst that can happen" and do it, the more comfortable one gets. So I see exactly what is meant by new mentality. I, like keith am building almost daily and get messages almost daily about how to do some things that people are just afraid to do. Again because everyone seems to twist every damn thing that experienced people have to say... no ones implying travis is scared or doing anything wrong. Were simply stating don't be afraid to try... as he is. That is all.

[kfxguy]

I hope you didn't take my post the wrong way...it wasn't meant to be abrasive. To clarify, I wasn't suggesting that the OP has an entry level mentality...I'm saying that being scared to drill holes in a boat is something that people who are new to building typically possess. That doesn't mean that kfxguy's abilities are typecast into some generalization that I didn't mean to imply...

I wouldn't put nuts on the bottom of a hull either, that would look pretty bad in my opinion. Stainless button head allen screws that thread into the piece you are making (up from the bottom) is another story though.

Typically, bolting something to the hull will, if anything, strengthen it by spreading the load out.
I would compare bolting things through the side of the sponson to bolting things to a fender. Bolting things to the tunnel is more like bolting things to the tunnel in a car, which is something that is regularly done and accepted. Would you rather crash in a car that had the seat belts epoxied in?

Lol, no man I didn't take it wrong in anyway. We all have our own way of doing things. You've built waaay more boats than me no doubt and I respect your opinion and openly accept and appreciate any advice you give me. No one on here really knows me and I understand that, so its cool. I don't get mad about what people say on a forum.....you never know there true demeanor by reading a post. Talking to them is always a better way of communication. So no, I didn't take it wrong.

I have my own way I like to do things that works for me. And im sure that's how most people are. In this servo mounting situation, the holes in my bracket are counter sunk. So really the nut would go to the outside of the hull and look like poo. I could use a button head Allen and washer on the outside, then a washer over the countersunk hole with a nut on top....but I don't have room anyway because the servo ears run over the holes.

Here's a pic so you can see what I mean. Yea,I could cut the servo ears some.....but I don't want to hack it up.

20131102_185914.jpg

[Wetter]

who is afraid ? they are toys! if you you do not dream, then do not spend the coin or your time and get out of this hobby. Period.
come on guys who are you kidding I ask questions as though i were a kid it is how we learn.
so trail and error does not constitute gain? Gee! Tesla had more smarts than Edison ever dreamed of having.
damn your fools.

[tiqueman]

You'd be suprised how many people I talk to who are afraid to put a drill to a fresh hull. Often the case may be they saved for a while to get it and are worried they will mess something up. And this is exactly what I mean. Who says anywhere not to ask questions or error doesnt constitute gain?

Travis. Why not have seperate mounting holes for the plate from the mount? Then a button head can come up thru the bottom and nuts I side. Then u can do ur blind nuts as you mentioned to me or nut and bolt it which will cause the mount plate to float requiring some type of spacers.

[kfxguy]

Keith, when you see what im doing to mount the servo, I think you'll like it. Its a lot of trouble.....but. worth it for a clean look that im after. Stay tuned. Im laying up carbon parts right now. Im shooting to have it done by tomorrow evening. I also bought some better quality steering linkage ends and a billet servo arm. Too bad the servo arm is the wrong spline lmao. I forgot to bring my servo with me to the hobby shop.

[Fella1340]

I like the what's the worst thing that can happen line of thinking. Just about any mistake that is
made can be fixed. I hope I didn't get anyone upset with my earlier comments. Somehow I managed to.stick my boot in my mouth with how things came out. I was just supporting him in any way he wanted to do the work on his boat and it came out sounding the way it did. My apologies for sounding like a jackass. I do that sometimes.

[tiqueman]

Lol its true though. Anything can be fixed. That boat keith spoke of was a mess. Its fixed and getting wet tomorrow. I always think if I don't screw it up.. the water or someone else will. Then you get repair practice.

Nice talking to you travis. Youre certainly on the right track. Ill send you the pics you requested asap.

[kfxguy]

I like the what's the worst thing that can happen line of thinking. Just about any mistake that is
made can be fixed. I hope I didn't get anyone upset with my earlier comments. Somehow I managed to.stick my boot in my mouth with how things came out. I was just supporting him in any way he wanted to do the work on his boat and it came out sounding the way it did. My apologies for sounding like a jackass. I do that sometimes.

No man, your ok. You didn't say anything wrong. At least I didn't think you did lol. I appreciate the backing in what im wanting to do. Many different ways to do this....no way is absolutely wrong or right. Well I guess if you used tooth pucks or popcicle sticks that would be completely wrong but yiu know what im saying. Lol. Im having a good time doing this and glad some of you guys are following along. Lets keep having a good time and ill go sprinkle some fairy dust on this epoxy to make it dry faster so I can finish and hit the water with it! Lol.

[rickwess]

I think (hope) most people are here to learn from others experiences. The expression, "Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" comes to mind. Perhaps more appropriate for here is "Those who fail to learn from the mistakes of their predecessors are destined to repeat them."

The group of builders on this forum are great and are willing to answer questions.

As for the servo mount, I would probably build a base out of CF, or ply covered in CF cloth, and epoxy in some blind nuts before epoxying it to the hull.

[kfxguy]

I think (hope) most people are here to learn from others experiences. The expression, "Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it" comes to mind. Perhaps more appropriate for here is "Those who fail to learn from the mistakes of their predecessors are destined to repeat them."

The group of builders on this forum are great and are willing to answer questions.

As for the servo mount, I would probably build a base out of CF, or ply covered in CF cloth, and epoxy in some blind nuts before epoxying it to the hull.

That's exactly what im doing. Im vacuum bagging a layer of cf over wood and when its done curing ill drill my holes and press the t nuts in. Then epoxy in hull.

20131102_190500.jpg

[kfxguy]

20131102_190748.jpgHere's my motor mounted. Little embarrassed that its slightly crooked. Either it moved on me even tho I thought it was taped in good or my eyes were crooked at the time. Lol. O well. At least the mount is slotted and can make up for it.

[rickwess]

Does anyone mix milled CF in with their epoxy? In some cases the extra strength would be useful, but the aesthetic benefit is black epoxy on CF.

[kfxguy]

I forgot to mention....my gram scale died on me so I had to go get another one today. I used it to perfectly mix the epoxy. That put me behind. I was shooting to have it ready for tomorrow morning. Doesn't look like now.

[kfxguy]

Does anyone mix milled CF in with their epoxy? In some cases the extra strength would be useful, but the aesthetic benefit is black epoxy on CF.

I heard you can use graphite powder.