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Thread: The "Bling Rocket" build

  1. #1
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    Default The "Bling Rocket" build

    Well folks this has been on the shelf for awhile but it is time to start as winter is coming. Bear with me as my laptop has died so I am IPhone'ing this up.
    So we have one plain ole' Pursuit hull to start
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    Ok there is the glitch. No instant photos
    I put a huge post in that first one but it ended up being all links to photo ads
    Last edited by srislash; 10-22-2013 at 09:13 PM.

  3. #3
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    And a new workshop to work in. I have been working on this for awhile now
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    These are the parts that I have,trim tabs,turn fins, a rudder, a black can Castle 1515 and a 220amp Swordy ESC, as well as the CF sheet they rest on
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    So I am going to go with the strut/flood tube form of driveline. I got this Cf tube for it as well as the strut which I have drilled this afternoon
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    So this will get a full carbon layup as well as a couple stringers running up the bow attaching deck to hull with CF sheet. I did this to the 35" DF after all the stress cracks started showing up.
    So I pose a question to you guys, to flood chamber it or not? I want this thing to be just "throw n'go". Though it has been awhile since I have flipped my DF

  7. #7
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    The flood chamber sound cool,
    But I do not think you really need it.
    What kv is the 1515 ?
    And do you have plans to run it on more than 6s at some time ?
    I just bought another Pursuit but the hull dead rise is a little different than,
    My Kintec Pursuit hull.
    This one looks like your hull at the transom and water line.

    This is Kintec hull.
    Pursuit 003.jpgpursuit hull 002.jpgPursuit 006.jpgpursuit hull 005.jpgpursuit hull 001.jpg
    Last edited by lenny; 10-23-2013 at 11:52 PM.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

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    It is a 2200 kv Lenny. I think it will do the trick.
    Yup, I could save some weight and time/room by not going with the chamber. My last few spills with the DF have been submarine'ing. So far it looks like I will have to stuff the motor back tight to get my CG.
    Don't know about 6s but 5s for sure.
    All hardware is mounted, I'll get pics up soon.

  9. #9
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    This new one has the 4082 2200kv in it.
    The one I have been testing I put the 4074 1800kv in with a modded x447/3,
    I have been testing it on 4s,5s,6s and it running pretty good so far.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by lenny View Post
    This new one has the 4082 2200kv in it.
    The one I have been testing I put the 4074 1800kv in with a modded x447/3,
    I have been testing it on 4s,5s,6s and it running pretty good so far.
    So yours are RTR's then? I have a 1518 1800kv or 1520 1600kv here if I wanted bigger. But I think 4s2p 8000-10,000 mah is enough for this hull.
    I do like running 1800kv, it leaves lots of options.

  11. #11
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    So how were the bottoms on yours Lenny? I see this one is convex in the flat area.

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    The new one looks pretty flat and yes it is ready to run,
    But needs the flex up graded to one piece.
    But the one in the pictures need a lot of tlc.
    I bought it used and it is pretty banged up on the bottom of the whole hull,
    But you would not know it by the way it is running so good.
    Last edited by lenny; 10-24-2013 at 06:31 PM.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

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    Ah a little glazing putty will clean up the bottom Len.

    I'm gonna haft to put some up pressure on the bottom when I do the inlay.
    Got the wet well cut and set,motor mount drilled and set where I like it. Next to cut stringers.

  14. #14
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    Ok, here is hardware,and where the motor is going to go.
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    And this is the convex I wrote of;
    I think if I put a board or something over the area then tape against it, it will hold it up till my layup cures.it is way easier to fill than sand off that kind of abnormality.
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    That is coming together pretty fast,
    Not sure how that hull is going to run with that motor at it back door like that.
    I can not what to see how it handles,
    But I guess the cells will level it all out in the end.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  17. #17
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    The motor in the back like that Lenny has come from my DF and the issues I had with it forward. I had a dickens of a time with it hopping around because I had a hard time getting the weight right. Also I can use the rear(stern) motor mount bolts as a pivot point to allow strut adjustment. Tony is running one of his in this fashion too.

  18. #18
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    So back to progress:
    I have made my bulkheads/stringers image.jpgimage.jpg
    And this the layoutimage.jpgimage.jpg
    I think I may go the direct solder route with the motor ESC but at any rate going to simply lay the ESC on the batteries, perhaps with Velcro.
    I will need to make a new CF side for the motor to accommodate that servo on the bottom right of second pic.
    Last edited by srislash; 10-25-2013 at 12:20 PM.

  19. #19
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    Well I have got to work today but did manage to get one side of the integrated motor mount doneimage.jpgimage.jpg

    I am also changing the water inlet of the motor cooler can, so epoxy is setting in the old hole right now.

  20. #20
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    Very nice looking stuff you made there,
    I like how you made them bulkheads & stringers and trays to.
    How much would you want for set like that.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  21. #21
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    The trays are Steven's Len. What are you after there, I have been making my own CF sheets.

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    Nice bro, sorry I didn't catch this thread sooner. One of these days I want to pick up one of Steven's pursuits :-) ...... For now I need to finish my villain, my rigger, my vintage shovelnose & maybe twin my mean machine :-) .

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by gsbuickman View Post
    Nice bro, sorry I didn't catch this thread sooner. One of these days I want to pick up one of Steven's pursuits :-) ...... For now I need to finish my villain, my rigger, my vintage shovelnose & maybe twin my mean machine :-) .
    Haha, yeah I got a rigger down too. Had a Lehner but going Castle now. I at some point would like to twin a MM. They seem to favor it. And have to get the Bud hydro settled before doing the one I got off you GSB.

    Lenny, I am going to make templates of all this stuff this AM. I hope

  24. #24
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    Cool that is a great idea to do,

    My hulls look pretty thick in the lay up.
    But I still like the idea of bulkheads & stringers for the boat,
    The old kintec hull has a small crack at the hatch latch insert that needs some epoxy around it for strength.

    Looks like you will have some nice room to work in with that new shop.
    That is what I really need now,
    I have been looking at some rancher with basements and pole burns for a shop.
    Very hard to work on stuff with out some more room hear.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  25. #25
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    Yup, I fluked out meeting Leigh(my love and awesome chick) as she has a nice rancher with that detached garage that I claimed a 10'X12' cozy room + there is the rest of the garage.

    So here is the filled "site"hole in the cooling jacket and the relocated inlet on the opposite side
    image.jpgimage.jpg

    And here are my mount parts complete

    image.jpg

  26. #26
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    I was trying everything in this hull 3S 5000 single 4s 4000 single 5s 3800 single and 6s 5000 single.
    They all made it run nice, Also in 4s 4000 and 5300 parallel to.
    Also ran 2s 5000 in series to and it ran good.
    And when I tested them they where all just about in the same placement in back of the motor at the end cap,
    Or a inch or two from it.
    I will check my CG again with some cells in place today after work,
    And see what I come up with like that.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  27. #27
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    Thanks Len. With all my 2p sets (4s,5s,6s) I can move CG from 9"-10+". That is with centre placement, I could go with freeboard placement yet though my experience with the DF makes me shy away from it.

  28. #28
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    Yes I have not tried the packs on each side of the motor yet,
    I think center is better for me when coming off of some nice chop helps keep top side up.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  29. #29
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    Ok I tried 4 different packs in the boat and checked the CG again,
    All the packs I tried where 1" from the back of the motor cap.
    The packs where 4s 4000mah and CG was 10", 4s 5300 and 5s 3800 was the same 10",
    Also did the 4s 5300 in parallel side by side and CG was 10"3/8, And 6s 5000 was 10.5 CG.
    So I am not sure but you should be good with the setup,
    You may just need to trim your tabs down some from neutral.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  30. #30
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    Thanks Len, that is reassuring. I do have the ESC to move a bit yet too if needed.
    Worked on motor/tube alignment tonight, getting close, should have 3/8" up down strut travel. Might get bottom of strut level with bottom of hull for the "loose" ride then up for stability.

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