If you put a straight-edge across the pads both laterally and longitudinally, across the entire pad, my experience with this boat tells me you'll find that the ride-pads have concavity to them ("hooks").
Further, I'm certain that the trailing edges of the pads are rounded, and not 90-degrees.
Both of these things can/will cause issues with how slippery the hull is in the water. The "hooks" act like suction cups, grabbing, then releasing, and generally "sucking" the hull to the water's surface. At speed, this can induce an occillation, or "bounce"...
The rounded trailing edges cause the water to follow the rounded edge up the back of the ride-surface a bit, again, causing drag.
I wish that some of this could be "manufactured" out of these, but mass production doesn't always allow it. I will say that Pro Boat is aware of this and they are working to improve the processes.
In the meantime, the rest of us tinker and fix these issues ourselves. Not that hard to do and the results are usually very worth it.
As for repainting the bottoms... I was able to prep all of my race-boats, and then I used some white paint to paint just the ride-pads. They look really good this way.
You can see the whole process by checking out this thread. https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...eico-Race-Prep
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Thanks for all your responses. Youve made me realuze something. If I do put short trim tabs off the back it would pretty much be the same as squaring off the back of the pad, no? Im going to straight edge them again. If they need to be done, I guess ill do it. This boat needs to be stable with the castle 2200kv motor if about to get. I might as well tinker with it a bit. Then after learning more I can move on to something faster. Prolly not a good idea wanting to jump straight into a 70+mph boat this early in my learning curve. Ive got a lathe, mill, vacuum bagging carbon fiber setup and other stuff at my disposal to work with.
Btw, check out this catamaran. Has trim tabs. I can adjust the same bounce out of it with them. Lol
20131008_224333.jpg
I run a BEC with a stock Geico and an x642 would it be safe to check 6s in it for around 2 minutes just to get a feel of the power?
Prince 25 8XL,Delta force 29 8XL, SV27,Rio 51,Mini Rio,Stock Miss Geico m445,ERBE,Baja 5B SS, Hyper ST, Castle Emaxx.
With the 80A ESC that comes in the newer BJ29's and IM31 V2, you can run 6S with the stock setup (BEC)... I don't think that's the case with the older 60A ESC... Should say in the specs that are included, or on the website.
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Yes if the ride pads are short enough it would act as if the transom of the sponsons was a very sharp 90* but, I prefer to just redo the sponsons myself. They most likely don't make them 90* because it's harder to get the part to release out of the mold. Faster production, make more money.
Nortavlag Bulc
I went ahead and installed trim tabs tonight and I split the cooling to the motor and esc. I was going to just glue the tabs on but the glue wouldnt stick. Plus I realized I may need to move them around a bit. I ended up screwing them on. Two small pieces of wood I epoxied on the inside for the screws to grab and to reinforce it.
20131009_214242.jpg
20131009_214302.jpg
20131009_214313.jpg
i used the 60A on 5s (without the bec) for the whole summer with a 40 mm 1.4 tenshock prop , works perfect
Doesn't look like you've sharpened the leading edge of your rudder yet... Feel it... it's blunt... Might want to do that.
Tabs might help your situation, but that big, rounded off leading edge gap on them where they meet the sponson will be contributing to the drag. Again, it MIGHT benefit you, but ultimatly, you'd want those nice and tight against the sponsons.
Water doesn't break cleanly off of a rounded/curved trailing edge.
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Here's an update. I put a offset rudder on along with trim tabs. Im not sure what you guys mean by adding more drag as the boat is faster than the hull can handle. Pretty much all the wawawa is gone now. Im keeping the trim tabs on. Here's a video of it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0Nl...e_gdata_player
Don't care what is said I love all three of my mgs even though there all painted mystic colors now
Miss Geico (now white) Leopard 4074 2200kv motor T180 esc,x642 54.6 mph
Miss Geico 2(now black and white)4074 2000kv motor, T180 esc m445 51.2 mph
FAT PEOPLE ARE HARD TO KIDNAP
he was saying the boat was junk and does not run smooth. Oh but it does
Miss Geico (now white) Leopard 4074 2200kv motor T180 esc,x642 54.6 mph
Miss Geico 2(now black and white)4074 2000kv motor, T180 esc m445 51.2 mph
FAT PEOPLE ARE HARD TO KIDNAP
Well it might not be junk, but its not far from it. Since I have a daytona and a cheetah in my possession, I can tell a huge difference in quality and design. The geico is more inline with a "toy" straight out the box. It needs lots of work in my opinion to get it right. Then it still isn't right. Go look at your boat and compare the center section to the pic below and you'll see why over 55-60mph they don't stay on the water.
20131111_194923.jpg
strut closer to the transom / sponsor is more stable catamaran
Miss Geico (1).jpgMiss Geico (2).jpgMiss Geico (3).jpg
Last edited by mannytx1; 02-03-2014 at 10:44 AM.
HI, KFXGUY
strut closer to the transom / sponsor is more stable catamaransdsds.jpg
miss geico hull design for two motorsJAW%20Boats%2061.jpg
Miss Geico 29, mystic29,blackjack 29
3 1/2 "causes bouncingphoto (5)aa.jpg
Last edited by mannytx1; 01-29-2014 at 09:57 AM.
Motley Crew trim tabs lol...IMG_0018.jpg
distance between strut / prop and sponson 3.1 / 2 "causes bouncingphoto (5)aa.jpghi, miss geico, mystic and black jack is 27 ", 29" repeated mistake .
27" distance from the bow - sponson. (sling portion is not counted)
CG 27 "/ 3 = 9" from the sponson
Last edited by mannytx1; 02-06-2014 at 11:47 AM.
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