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Thread: trim tabs on miss geico

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    Well... we tried... Best of luck.
    Lol. Im on the fence about it. I wanna like this boat but im not sure I wanna put the time into it. Ill already ordered a few things for it do im still gonna try them this weekend. Ill report back. Btw, my pads in the rear are perfectly flat.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfxguy View Post
    Btw, my pads in the rear are perfectly flat.
    If you put a straight-edge across the pads both laterally and longitudinally, across the entire pad, my experience with this boat tells me you'll find that the ride-pads have concavity to them ("hooks").

    Further, I'm certain that the trailing edges of the pads are rounded, and not 90-degrees.

    Both of these things can/will cause issues with how slippery the hull is in the water. The "hooks" act like suction cups, grabbing, then releasing, and generally "sucking" the hull to the water's surface. At speed, this can induce an occillation, or "bounce"...

    The rounded trailing edges cause the water to follow the rounded edge up the back of the ride-surface a bit, again, causing drag.

    I wish that some of this could be "manufactured" out of these, but mass production doesn't always allow it. I will say that Pro Boat is aware of this and they are working to improve the processes.

    In the meantime, the rest of us tinker and fix these issues ourselves. Not that hard to do and the results are usually very worth it.

    As for repainting the bottoms... I was able to prep all of my race-boats, and then I used some white paint to paint just the ride-pads. They look really good this way.





    You can see the whole process by checking out this thread. https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...eico-Race-Prep
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    If you put a straight-edge across the pads both laterally and longitudinally, across the entire pad, my experience with this boat tells me you'll find that the ride-pads have concavity to them ("hooks").

    Further, I'm certain that the trailing edges of the pads are rounded, and not 90-degrees.

    Both of these things can/will cause issues with how slippery the hull is in the water. The "hooks" act like suction cups, grabbing, then releasing, and generally "sucking" the hull to the water's surface. At speed, this can induce an occillation, or "bounce"...

    The rounded trailing edges cause the water to follow the rounded edge up the back of the ride-surface a bit, again, causing drag.

    I wish that some of this could be "manufactured" out of these, but mass production doesn't always allow it. I will say that Pro Boat is aware of this and they are working to improve the processes.

    In the meantime, the rest of us tinker and fix these issues ourselves. Not that hard to do and the results are usually very worth it.

    As for repainting the bottoms... I was able to prep all of my race-boats, and then I used some white paint to paint just the ride-pads. They look really good this way.





    You can see the whole process by checking out this thread. https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...eico-Race-Prep
    Thanks for all your responses. Youve made me realuze something. If I do put short trim tabs off the back it would pretty much be the same as squaring off the back of the pad, no? Im going to straight edge them again. If they need to be done, I guess ill do it. This boat needs to be stable with the castle 2200kv motor if about to get. I might as well tinker with it a bit. Then after learning more I can move on to something faster. Prolly not a good idea wanting to jump straight into a 70+mph boat this early in my learning curve. Ive got a lathe, mill, vacuum bagging carbon fiber setup and other stuff at my disposal to work with.

  4. #34
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    Btw, check out this catamaran. Has trim tabs. I can adjust the same bounce out of it with them. Lol

    20131008_224333.jpg

  5. #35
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    I run a BEC with a stock Geico and an x642 would it be safe to check 6s in it for around 2 minutes just to get a feel of the power?
    Prince 25 8XL,Delta force 29 8XL, SV27,Rio 51,Mini Rio,Stock Miss Geico m445,ERBE,Baja 5B SS, Hyper ST, Castle Emaxx.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brushless01 View Post
    I run a BEC with a stock Geico and an x642 would it be safe to check 6s in it for around 2 minutes just to get a feel of the power?
    Nope

  7. #37
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    With the 80A ESC that comes in the newer BJ29's and IM31 V2, you can run 6S with the stock setup (BEC)... I don't think that's the case with the older 60A ESC... Should say in the specs that are included, or on the website.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  8. #38
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    Yes if the ride pads are short enough it would act as if the transom of the sponsons was a very sharp 90* but, I prefer to just redo the sponsons myself. They most likely don't make them 90* because it's harder to get the part to release out of the mold. Faster production, make more money.


    Quote Originally Posted by kfxguy View Post
    Thanks for all your responses. Youve made me realuze something. If I do put short trim tabs off the back it would pretty much be the same as squaring off the back of the pad, no? Im going to straight edge them again. If they need to be done, I guess ill do it. This boat needs to be stable with the castle 2200kv motor if about to get. I might as well tinker with it a bit. Then after learning more I can move on to something faster. Prolly not a good idea wanting to jump straight into a 70+mph boat this early in my learning curve. Ive got a lathe, mill, vacuum bagging carbon fiber setup and other stuff at my disposal to work with.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    With the 80A ESC that comes in the newer BJ29's and IM31 V2, you can run 6S with the stock setup (BEC)... I don't think that's the case with the older 60A ESC... Should say in the specs that are included, or on the website.
    Mine is the newest version and its a 60 amp esc. It eill handle 5s for a short time. Split the cooling and it will have a better chance at surviving.

  10. #40
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    I went ahead and installed trim tabs tonight and I split the cooling to the motor and esc. I was going to just glue the tabs on but the glue wouldnt stick. Plus I realized I may need to move them around a bit. I ended up screwing them on. Two small pieces of wood I epoxied on the inside for the screws to grab and to reinforce it.

    20131009_214242.jpg

    20131009_214302.jpg

    20131009_214313.jpg

  11. #41
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    i used the 60A on 5s (without the bec) for the whole summer with a 40 mm 1.4 tenshock prop , works perfect

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by iop65 View Post
    i used the 60A on 5s (without the bec) for the whole summer with a 40 mm 1.4 tenshock prop , works perfect
    I'd imagine it would. That a small not very aggressive prop.

  13. #43
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    Doesn't look like you've sharpened the leading edge of your rudder yet... Feel it... it's blunt... Might want to do that.

    Tabs might help your situation, but that big, rounded off leading edge gap on them where they meet the sponson will be contributing to the drag. Again, it MIGHT benefit you, but ultimatly, you'd want those nice and tight against the sponsons.

    Water doesn't break cleanly off of a rounded/curved trailing edge.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    Doesn't look like you've sharpened the leading edge of your rudder yet... Feel it... it's blunt... Might want to do that.

    Tabs might help your situation, but that big, rounded off leading edge gap on them where they meet the sponson will be contributing to the drag. Again, it MIGHT benefit you, but ultimatly, you'd want those nice and tight against the sponsons.

    Water doesn't break cleanly off of a rounded/curved trailing edge.
    thanks for the tip on the rudder. Didnt think of that. Yea I really need to bend the tabs in a brake. Those are temp tabs. I have some better material coming.

  15. #45
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    Here's an update. I put a offset rudder on along with trim tabs. Im not sure what you guys mean by adding more drag as the boat is faster than the hull can handle. Pretty much all the wawawa is gone now. Im keeping the trim tabs on. Here's a video of it.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0Nl...e_gdata_player

  16. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfxguy View Post
    Here's an update. I put a offset rudder on along with trim tabs. Im not sure what you guys mean by adding more drag as the boat is faster than the hull can handle. Pretty much all the wawawa is gone now. Im keeping the trim tabs on. Here's a video of it.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0Nl...e_gdata_player
    It's a Band-Aide fix, but if it works, that's the end result we all want.

    Enjoy...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  17. #47
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    Don't care what is said I love all three of my mgs even though there all painted mystic colors now


    Miss Geico (now white) Leopard 4074 2200kv motor T180 esc,x642 54.6 mph
    Miss Geico 2(now black and white)4074 2000kv motor, T180 esc m445 51.2 mph
    FAT PEOPLE ARE HARD TO KIDNAP

  18. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by skyhighdiver View Post
    Don't care what is said I love all three of my mgs even though there all painted mystic colors now


    What does that have to do with trim tabs?




    Update: I like the better adjustability the tabs give me so I ordered some better ones with set screws.

  19. #49
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    he was saying the boat was junk and does not run smooth. Oh but it does
    Miss Geico (now white) Leopard 4074 2200kv motor T180 esc,x642 54.6 mph
    Miss Geico 2(now black and white)4074 2000kv motor, T180 esc m445 51.2 mph
    FAT PEOPLE ARE HARD TO KIDNAP

  20. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by skyhighdiver View Post
    he was saying the boat was junk and does not run smooth. Oh but it does
    Well it might not be junk, but its not far from it. Since I have a daytona and a cheetah in my possession, I can tell a huge difference in quality and design. The geico is more inline with a "toy" straight out the box. It needs lots of work in my opinion to get it right. Then it still isn't right. Go look at your boat and compare the center section to the pic below and you'll see why over 55-60mph they don't stay on the water.

    20131111_194923.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  21. #51
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    Default no bouncing

    strut closer to the transom / sponsor is more stable catamaran
    Miss Geico (1).jpgMiss Geico (2).jpgMiss Geico (3).jpg
    Last edited by mannytx1; 02-03-2014 at 10:44 AM.

  22. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by mannytx1 View Post

    Not sure what the pics prove for no boucing. Lol
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  23. #53
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    HI, KFXGUY
    strut closer to the transom / sponsor is more stable catamaransdsds.jpg

    miss geico hull design for two motorsJAW%20Boats%2061.jpg

    Miss Geico 29, mystic29,blackjack 29
    3 1/2 "causes bouncingphoto (5)aa.jpg
    Last edited by mannytx1; 01-29-2014 at 09:57 AM.

  24. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfxguy View Post
    Hi, new guy here. New to boating but not rc. I got bit by the boat bug about a month ago and bought a shockwave 26. Then ended up buying a miss geico 29. The bouncing....omg. cant stand it. I ordered the offset rudder. Tried different strut positions. Tried different battery positions. Tried different props. I have an x642 on there at the moment. I thought about putting trim tabs on. I know some of you dont agree with that but it doesnt bother me. I read on here where one guy put trim tabs on and it helped. Didnt really elaborate tho.

    What do you guys think. Btw, sanding and repainting to blue print the bottom is not something I want to do. Heres my fleet btw. What ive collected in a month lol
    Motley Crew trim tabs lol...IMG_0018.jpg

  25. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    ... Believe me... I, of all people, would LOVE for these to come out perfectly out of the box. Believe me! Everytime someone finds a flaw, I do feedback the information to Pro Boat in an effort to get it corrected, or at least note it for the next development phase.

    All I can say is that I think they are getting better every year. All RTRs have some kind of issue out of the box. Production compromises and costs and a companies desire for a profit margin can often create less that perfect designs or products.

    Hopefully, we can build on the experiences each time to create better and better products.

    They are certainly better than they used to be, and, I think, getting better with each release.

    :)
    distance between strut / prop and sponson 3.1 / 2 "causes bouncingphoto (5)aa.jpghi, miss geico, mystic and black jack is 27 ", 29" repeated mistake .
    27" distance from the bow - sponson. (sling portion is not counted)
    CG 27 "/ 3 = 9" from the sponson
    Last edited by mannytx1; 02-06-2014 at 11:47 AM.

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