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Thread: My Impulse 31 v2 upgrades with photos, it's comming along.

  1. #1
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    Default My Impulse 31 v2 upgrades with photos, it's comming along.

    Here are some photos of the upgraded parts I received from OSE. The Seaking 180 amp esc was a very tight fit but by trimming some of the rail I was able to get it in. The water tubing that connects both sides of the esc and cant be seen in the photo's fits perfect with no kinks. The new parts include the following.
    Leopard 4074, 1650kv motor.
    Rear motor brace. I will make up some brackets for it and fasten to the rails.
    Seaking 180 amp ESC V2.
    Octura S&B M445 prop.
    OSE upgraded flex cable.
    Octura flex hex coupler.
    Speedmaster adjustable trim tabs.
    OSE 1/4 inch silicon tubing.
    Silicon tubing clamps.
    I will be running this boat with 2 GensAce 3 cell 5000mah 40c lipo's connected in series for 6 cell.
    My radio is a Spektrum DX3R pro.
    I am running the same set up in my Black Jack 29 minus the trim tabs of course. I still have to solder and button everything up, after that it will be working on my canoe for the recovery boat. Thanks to all who took the time to help me out with this project and steer me in the right direction with parts. I cant wait to get it on the water. I have my own personal pond on my property but im afraid this boat would be across it in 1/2 a second. _DSC5165 copy rs.jpg_DSC5168 copy rs.jpg_DSC5171 copy rs.jpg_DSC5172 copy rs.jpg_DSC5174 copy rs.jpg

  2. #2
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    It looks great do u have any pics without the ESC in the boat? I can't really see the part you said you cut away

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    No photos without the esc. The part I cut is the left rail, it looks the same as the right rail with the three large holes, I cut away two of the holes. You can see where the tubing enters and exits from the esc. The tubing closest to the rear of the boat enters the esc from the rudder and the other exits it and enters the motor at the lower right side. The part of the esc that is under the left side of the hull and cant be seen is were the tubing makes a 180 degree bend ( exit and enter back in) hope this helps.
    Quote Originally Posted by jworm49 View Post
    It looks great do u have any pics without the ESC in the boat? I can't really see the part you said you cut away

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    Ok thanks man reading that and looking at it again it makes more sense. Can you post a pic of how the batteries are wired up once you get the soldering all done? I want to go with this set up as well. I'm going to have to pay someone to solder mine up because I don't know how to or have the stuff to do it. Also I can figure out how the motor wires up but how are you wiring the batteries in series to the ESC?

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    Sure I will post pics when done but maybe I can explain it first. To get 6 cell out of two 3 cell lipo's you need to connect them in series. The esc has two wires, red and black but two batteries have 4 wires with red and black. To do this you make a harness that connects the red wire from the esc to the red wire on battery number one then the black wire from the esc to the black wire on battery number two. That leaves a black wire on battery number one and a red wire on battery number two not connected to anything right, well those two wires ( red and black) get connected together. I know it seems strange connecting a pos and a neg like that but that is how its done in a series connection with a harness. This way of connecting doubles the voltage but the Mah stays the same, in a parallel connection (all pos to pos and neg to neg) the voltage stays the same but the Mah doubles. I hope this makes sense to you. Perhaps someone can explain it easier.
    Quote Originally Posted by jworm49 View Post
    Ok thanks man reading that and looking at it again it makes more sense. Can you post a pic of how the batteries are wired up once you get the soldering all done? I want to go with this set up as well. I'm going to have to pay someone to solder mine up because I don't know how to or have the stuff to do it. Also I can figure out how the motor wires up but how are you wiring the batteries in series to the ESC?

  6. #6
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    I should have said a series connection adds the two voltage ratings of the packs together because you can connect 2 cell and 3 cell packs together to make a 5 cell pack. That is providing they are of the same Mah and c rating and is a good idea if from the same manufacturer as well.

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    Ok so yer making a harness kind of like what was on the stock ESC?

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    Exactly, now why didn't I think of saying it was just like the stock hook up lol.

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    Soldering is not to difficult to do if you have a decent soldering iron that can get to a good high temp. I use the Track Power solder station and it has worked perfect for me when soldering up motors and esc's for my other RC vehicles and hexacopters, as well as making harnesses, LED lighting, changing battery leads among other things. It just takes some practise is all. If your going to be in the hobby for a while you may as well learn how to do it.
    Quote Originally Posted by jworm49 View Post
    Ok thanks man reading that and looking at it again it makes more sense. Can you post a pic of how the batteries are wired up once you get the soldering all done? I want to go with this set up as well. I'm going to have to pay someone to solder mine up because I don't know how to or have the stuff to do it. Also I can figure out how the motor wires up but how are you wiring the batteries in series to the ESC?

  10. #10
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    yeah you are right it is a skill I should learn.

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    motor :cooling
    not perfect this way ; air will get trapped in the jacket
    outlet should be on top/highest piont

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    Quote Originally Posted by iop65 View Post
    motor :cooling
    not perfect this way ; air will get trapped in the jacket
    outlet should be on top/highest piont
    I theory, this could be true, but in reality, the water is being forced in at a MUCH higher rate and pressure than it can escape... the water jacket will have so much water pressure in it that air won't be able to be trapped inside it, in my opinion. If the water is squirting out of the side of the boat several inches or more, I don't think you have anything to worry about. Water is going to be forced into the jacket and take up every bit of available space, purging it of air pretty quickly. Going to have to have some clear evidence to the contrary to convince me otherwise.

    I'll experiment with that with my latest build-up and see...


    As for the upgrades, looks like fun. Do yourself a favor... buy a set of these... Trust me! :)

    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1400

    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

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    I was wondering about this myself. Unfortunately without being able to turn the brass pieces on the jacket this was the only way it could sit. I thought about turning the jacket around end for end but it gets really tight around were the esc is so both brass ends would have been more or less sideways to each other.
    Quote Originally Posted by iop65 View Post
    motor :cooling
    not perfect this way ; air will get trapped in the jacket
    outlet should be on top/highest piont

  14. #14
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    Hi Darin thanks for the info. I read up on your turn fins but unfortunately it was after I had placed my last order. I will be getting a set of these for sure with my next order from OSE.
    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    I theory, this could be true, but in reality, the water is being forced in at a MUCH higher rate and pressure than it can escape... the water jacket will have so much water pressure in it that air won't be able to be trapped inside it, in my opinion. If the water is squirting out of the side of the boat several inches or more, I don't think you have anything to worry about. Water is going to be forced into the jacket and take up every bit of available space, purging it of air pretty quickly. Going to have to have some clear evidence to the contrary to convince me otherwise.

    I'll experiment with that with my latest build-up and see...


    As for the upgrades, looks like fun. Do yourself a favor... buy a set of these... Trust me! :)

    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1400


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    Spanky, I like your set up the Seaking 180 seems to be the ESC everyone goes with for if they plan in running 6S. I'm wondering though are there other choices that would be reliable in the same price range that would not require cutting the rail to fit?

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    Spanky, I'd love to ask you some questions about your set up as I just got my Seaking 180 and leo 4082 from OSE. I'm not much of a builder at this point and I'm already confused. It seems to me from just placing the ESC in the boat that you wouldn't need to do any cutting? Also how did you install the 40mm mount? It looks to me like it only fits on the front of the motor near the shaft but it clearly to mea at least seems like it should be on the back of the motor to support the weight? Also as for the BEC of the ESC I have heard if you want to run 6S you need to disable it and use a separate RX battery. This is discouraging I was hoping not to have to go this route.

  17. #17
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    Hi jworm49, if I remember correctly it was a very very snug fit on my esc to get it in without some cutting, add in the additional height of the Velcro pad and it would not work for me so I trimmed the rails for easier installation. For the rear motor mount I installed it first from the front end of the motor and then slid it to the rear, then installed the water jacket. Even with the motor mount fully tightened down it was still a bit loose so I ran 1 layer of electrical tape around the inside of the mount and trimmed it to width and now when tightened down it is a nice and snug fit. As for the BEC, I guess it's always a good idea but I have not planned on using one in my boat, I will see what the BEC in the Seaking is like first. I see you went with the 4082 for your boat, that thing should really get the boat moving. Im running the 4074 and figure that alone will be a handful. From what I understand fast electric boats should be ran wide open for the most part ( slowing down for turns of course) so as to put less strain on the ESC and keep the temps down. If that's the case then you have a real screamer on your hands. What KV motor are you running with.

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    I just placed the ESC in the boat loose but I did it opposite of you with the water nipples facing the front and rear of the boat it seems to fit ok. I'm waiting for a water jacket fro OSE before I can really start mounting anything. I'd be interested to see how you did the mounting feet for the 40mm ring as I'm not at all sure how I will go about it. I was planning on getting the 4074 as you did but it was out of stock so Steve recommend the kit I got with the 4082 I'm hopping it's not to much for the boat. It's a 1600KV.

  19. #19
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    I've got everything soldered up now and will get started on the rear mounting brackets soon, I will post some photos when its done. Im going to have to wait until spring to run it as all the water is quite frozen up here now, I also have about 6 inches of snow on my field already. My guess is you will be up and running long before im able to. Im looking forward to some pics and a video of yours running when your able as well. The best I can do right now is possibly some snow boating with the Black Jack 29,we'll see how it goes for that though.
    Quote Originally Posted by jworm49 View Post
    I just placed the ESC in the boat loose but I did it opposite of you with the water nipples facing the front and rear of the boat it seems to fit ok. I'm waiting for a water jacket fro OSE before I can really start mounting anything. I'd be interested to see how you did the mounting feet for the 40mm ring as I'm not at all sure how I will go about it. I was planning on getting the 4074 as you did but it was out of stock so Steve recommend the kit I got with the 4082 I'm hopping it's not to much for the boat. It's a 1600KV.

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    sounds good and I'll post up pics and vids as I get them.

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    Some pics of my built I still need to fine tun a few things but I ran it today on 4S and it went very well about the same speed as stock on 4S the boat with to 3S packs weighs in at 7lbs.CameraZOOM-20131116192533939.jpgCameraZOOM-20131116192614457.jpg

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    some video of my first runs still trying to find the right set up you can see in the second vid the right at the end the flex shaft snaps.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPkm7BHv5dQ

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NN7VoRhn0Ko

  23. #23
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    Wow it was running really good until the flex cable broke. Did it actually break or just come loose, I hope you didn't loose the shaft and prop. I purchased the OSE upgraded cable for mine and the Octura flex hex coupler. The coupler is easier on the cable and makes removal for greasing much easier. Your lucky, I see you had Tee shirt weather with your open water, up here its parka's and ice everywhere lol.

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    Yeah it was about 60 that day and 40 the next but Yes the cable snapped right in half But stayed in the boat thankfully. I have the upgraded shaft fro OSE on the way as they are out of the HD ones, I'm also using a coupler a lil different from yours it has two set screw on the shaft. I was running an X440 to me it seemed a bit too small the front of the boat was pushing a bit. What prop are you running?

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    Im running an Octura S&B M445 prop. Glad to hear you didn't loose the prop.

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    ok I don't know about the M props I've been running a x642 on 4S and so far a X440 on 6S but I think I'm gonna end up with a x442 for running 6S the 440 I think is just a hair to small/underpowered.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jworm49 View Post
    ok I don't know about the M props I've been running a x642 on 4S and so far a X440 on 6S but I think I'm gonna end up with a x442 for running 6S the 440 I think is just a hair to small/underpowered.
    The M series props are de-tongued. Are your props sharpened and balanced, if not you should look into that. What do you use for your recovery system, real boat, rc boat, wind or swim.

  28. #28
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    Ok someone told me I could detounge my X642 to make it more suited for 6S. I'm not sure what detounged means but I am running S&B props.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    I theory, this could be true, but in reality, the water is being forced in at a MUCH higher rate and pressure than it can escape... the water jacket will have so much water pressure in it that air won't be able to be trapped inside it, in my opinion. If the water is squirting out of the side of the boat several inches or more, I don't think you have anything to worry about. Water is going to be forced into the jacket and take up every bit of available space, purging it of air pretty quickly. Going to have to have some clear evidence to the contrary to convince me otherwise.

    I'll experiment with that with my latest build-up and see...


    As for the upgrades, looks like fun. Do yourself a favor... buy a set of these... Trust me! :)

    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...?prod=ose-1400

    This is exactly what I've known all along and chuckle a little to myself everytime some one says something about water not filling up a jacket all the way. Also when they say the outlet nipple has to be at the very top. Lol. Its going to fill up and have to be forced out of the outlet. Also....the water isn't going to beeline straight in and out. Some people try to overthink a simple situation lol.
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by jworm49 View Post
    Ok someone told me I could detounge my X642 to make it more suited for 6S. I'm not sure what detounged means but I am running S&B props.
    This will explain it well.....


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtEI...e_gdata_player
    32" carbon rivercat single 4s 102mph, 27” mini Rivercat 92mph, kbb34 91mph, jessej micro cat(too fast) was

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