Curved.
Cool. Thanks.
I noticed the rudder is not 90° to the transom, does it need to be adjusted to 90°????
20130802_232836.jpg
Ok so here is the picture of the controller/esc.
That is the new version, so assuming it was stock with the hull, you should have the re-enforced turn fin mounting as well.
Grand River Marine Modellers
https://www.facebook.com/search/top/...ne%20modellers
What do I use to scuff the bottom of the boat with? It's real slick and smooth, thanks.
I really would not bother scuffing the hull-- just don't wax it. The actual effects of scuffing is debatable and if it does work we are talking about less than 1mph benefit-- hardly worth damaging the finish for sport running IMHO.
Chief
Thanks BHC. Much appreciated.
Fyi, I'm getting the boat all set up for tomorrows maiden run. Camera, video camera, lipo's all charged up. I hope everything goes well and I don't sink the Ul-1.
I'll post up my thoughts along with pic's and video.
Thank you to everyone that has given me help and info.
Remember that it is a bit tricky to get on plane-- either toss it in and gun it, or give it a blip, and when the nose bobs up gun it.
Good luck on the maiden!
Chief
Well, I finally got it up on plane, after I pulled it from the weeds. Unfortunately I chewed up the prop really good.
Oh, by the way my temps are motor,129 & esc 109°.
Here's what I did to the prop.20130804_134114.jpg
I'm working on editing the video and should be done soon. Didn't get any pic's.
Ouch. That is some pretty tough weeds.
Right, I'm torn on which one to get as a replacement. 2 stock or a metal one.
Metal
You can buy props here at OSE. They need to be balanced and sharpened tho.
The closest metal prop to the stock plastic one would be the octura x440 3 blade prop
Finally got the video done. Sorry about the poor quality but its all I had. Anyway, please fell free to share your suggestions, GOD knows I sure could use them.
http://www.youtube.com/edit?video_id...eature=vm&ns=1
Here's a better shot of the prop.Aquacraft UL-1 006.jpg
I think I have the link corrected. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBvP...e_gdata_player
Let me know if it works. Thanks.
Last edited by stelerzman; 08-05-2013 at 03:00 PM.
Looks good.
If by drive spring you mean flex cable, no. In fact nothing is needed, you just put the prop on and go, but again, it needs to be balanced and sharpened
Here is my experience from last Sunday. To start off, the first 3 attempts at getting the boat up on plane resulted in nose diving. I pulled the boat and adjusted the strut up all the way. I tried it 2 more times with no luck. A friend suggested that I add some weight to the rear of the boat so I taped a set of allen wrenches to the tube. I'm guessing about 5 or 6 oz of weight. After I pulled the boat out of the weeds, that I had to muscle through just to reach it, I added the weigh and tried again.
That's were I was able to get up on plane. I was very happy at that point considering the prop was mangled. Anyway, I have some props coming in and now I need to know what do I have to do to the boat to get it on plane without the added weight in the back.
Hi,
Adding weight to the tail of the boat is not the right idea-- normally folks add weight to the nose--- the tail needs to lift and hover above the water when on plane, suspended by the prop-- when running only the sponsons should be touching the water. If the boat is going "WAH WAH WAH" and you don't see a constant spray of the rooster tail, that tells you the rear of the boat is bouncing on the water which is a no-no for hydros.
Take out the weight and try again-- this time, give it a quick blip which will push the nose under a little, and as the nose starts to pop back up, GUN IT FULL THROTTLE. You can't baby the boat onto plane, you have to gun it. Sounds scary but it works... once you are on plane, then you can slow down if you need to. This all assumes you have the strut set up in a usable position.
On the prop-- beryllium copper is best, but if you don't have someone who can s/b for you (note, beryllium copper is extremely toxic in particulate form, so you really need safety gear and a respirator to sharpen them), you can also go the alum. CNC route, or the graupner carbon filled props which are pretty good and don't need to be sharpened and balanced.
Here's a video of me starting up my hydro to give you and idea:
FYI, this boat has the exact same power system as yours-- UL1 motor, aquacraft 60A ESC, 4S1P. I'm using an x442 in this video as my racing prop but that gets a bit hot for sports running-- for sports running with longer runtimes I go down to an m440 (2 blade).
Chief
Last edited by BHChieftain; 08-07-2013 at 01:29 AM.
Thanks for the info Chief, did you watch the video I posted? There's a link a few posts up.
Also, I don't see a link to your video, I'd really like to see it. I wasn't sure if I could put a 2 blade prop on the UL-1.
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