My take on the Top Speed 3 Conversion/Build

[tlandauer]

Well, I got the Tunnel Fever awhile aback when I bought a VS1 from mtbenjamin77 and another ML PS-295 from Highflyerbill. The TS3 from Towerhibbies was $89 a pop a few weeks ago, couldn't resist. So here I am. it was intended as a quick build as my work is still going crazy in June, let's see how far I can get before the high summer sets in as I have a shovel nose Miss Timex which needs to be completed. ( Jim Clark's gorgeous build!)
As you see, the transom was COA ( cracked on arrival) as Chilli noted in his build. I performed the first necessary surgery : remove the fuel tank platform and the hump on the middle floor, stuffed with FG cloth rolled into the openings, filled the open space in the inner transom.DSCN3551_3750.jpg DSCN3555_3754.jpg DSCN3561_3760.jpg DSCN3564_3763.jpg
I ordered G10 FG plate and cut two strips to reinforce the inside, the FG hull is flexible due to the removal of the fuel tank platform.DSCN3565_3764.jpg

[tlandauer]

Now the gelcoat has been sanded away and you see how big the crack is, this is cause by the transom doubler inside not extending all the way to the bottom, and flex on the transom would stress the thin FG hull. The dark line is solid epoxy mixed with Great Planes Milled Fiber Glass showing from insideDSCN3607_3766.jpg. I made a template and cut a G 10 to reinforce from the outside. This will make a bullet proof, hopefully. DSCN3609_3768.jpg DSCN3611_3770.jpg DSCN3620_3773.jpg and thanks to Properchopper, I learned the bubble trick and this pilot hole drill. DSCN3622_3775.jpg

[tlandauer]

I was told that the ideal layout for the TS3 is for the battery to be placed as far back as possible. I bought Dinogy (4s, 6000mah) from Mark F at the 2013 RCX and these are pretty long batteries at 200mm! I debated whether to put the steering servo in the back and use solid rods or placing the steering mechanism in the front, in the end I opt for the latter. So I need to cut out templates for the radio/servo box. Since I don't to CAD design, this is decidedly mid-20th century approach! I am using 1/4" basswood for the bottom and the sides are 1/16" birch ply from MidwestProducts. Cross member is 1/4" plywood.
DSCN3623_3816.jpg DSCN3627_3820.jpg DSCN3631_3824.jpg, the other "occupants" of my family is not amused at my converted work bench!
The partially finished box:DSCN3637_3830.jpgDSCN3638_3831.jpg

[tlandauer]

These are the water lines and I also debated whether to group the three wires from the ESC in one big opening or three separate exits. The latter was easier for me to manage:DSCN3687_3878.jpg DSCN3698_3889.jpg DSCN3711_3902.jpgDSCN3716_3907.jpg DSCN3723_3913.jpg

[tlandauer]

The stock aluminum backing plate is quite thin and knowing how I tend to over do things, I will strip it in no time. I like beefier blind nuts instead. However, because the shape of the transom is narrower on the top, I can't use the blind nuts Great Plane makes for the top, luckily I found smaller ones at a hobby shop. I am using SAE 6-32 bolts and blind nuts instead of the M3 that is featured with the kit. DSCN3730_3920.jpgDSCN3732_3922.jpgDSCN3746_3936.jpgDSCN3733_3923.jpg DSCN3737_3927.jpg

[tlandauer]

Think I may be still able to use the stock servo stand, will definitely save me some work: DSCN3740_3930.jpg DSCN3742_3932.jpgDSCN3743_3933.jpg
That's it for now, thanks for looking!
I would love to hear opinions regarding how to link the steering arm on the OB. I can't decide whether to use ball link/cup or simply use this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK076&P=SM
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Also if I solder the steering cable , anything I need to know? I solder brass w/o any problem, but never soldered steel cable.

[Gabe_k]

looks sweet! ive always wanted to drive an outboard boat

[kendt]

I just redid the radio box for mine so I could fit a t180 in it.If it was a nose hair wider the cowl wouldn't fit. I put the servo up front and used cables with clevises on the servo end and ball links on the motor end. Soldering cable can be a real pita. Use lots of and lots of flux. I found a soldering iron worked better than a torch. I couldn't get the flame low enough and the solder just dripped off. I actually ran my cables out through the sides of the box about 2in from the servo instead of running them out the back. Im using 6s packs and the cable were a pain inside the box.

[Heaving Earth]

lookin good tim! do you have any vids of your other tunnels?

[capnswanny]

Nice Work!
If I were to do-over I too would move the servo forward.

I found the recommended CG of 7.5 to 8.5 worked for me. Weight too far fwd and it hooked and dove.
With my light REK leg I ended up with my esc under my servo aft, the battery butting against the ESC aft, and I cut off fwd end of the box!

To get the COG where you want it you may end up with the ESC on top of the battery to get the weight aft.

[jim82]

Looking good Tim.. With the steering cable on my VS-1 I used Loctite 638.. On the ball link or just plain clevis you can use either but I would use the ball link you can make more adjustments with less bind..

[tlandauer]

looks sweet! ive always wanted to drive an outboard boat

Thanks, I love how they ride on the water and seeing the motor out side is cool too. The outboard really gives me a feeling of machinary, lol...

[tlandauer]

I just redid the radio box for mine so I could fit a t180 in it.If it was a nose hair wider the cowl wouldn't fit. I put the servo up front and used cables with clevises on the servo end and ball links on the motor end. Soldering cable can be a real pita. Use lots of and lots of flux. I found a soldering iron worked better than a torch. I couldn't get the flame low enough and the solder just dripped off. I actually ran my cables out through the sides of the box about 2in from the servo instead of running them out the back. Im using 6s packs and the cable were a pain inside the box.

6s and t180ESC! Which tunnel are you running? Must be blazingly fast!
I plan to run my cable outside too, I just haven't decided at where it will enter: Plan A is to enter in the rear where the ESC is, the brass tubes will go in at a slight gentle angle and will put rubber belows on inside, then the cable will go to the servo. Plan B is to enter near where the servo is, but I like this better because there will be nothing inside to bother loading/unloading the battery. This means the brass tube will run longer and therefore heavier, I am also trying to save every gram of weight, so in the end I need to think which will be the most weight saving.
Thanks for the heads-up on soldering!

[tlandauer]

lookin good tim! do you have any vids of your other tunnels?

Thanks, Heving Earth!
I unfortunately don't have any videos of these two, in fact, don't have much video on any of my boats. Why??? Ask Lenny, he will tell you why!!
Seriously, I go alone and I can't drive and video at the same time , ( Lenny will be more than happy to clarify on that for you). I beached my Mean Machine twice during her maiden and I wasn't even holding a video cam.
Hopefully during the summer i can drag my 12 yr. daughter to shoot some vid!

[tlandauer]

Nice Work!
If I were to do-over I too would move the servo forward.

I found the recommended CG of 7.5 to 8.5 worked for me. Weight too far fwd and it hooked and dove.
With my light REK leg I ended up with my esc under my servo aft, the battery butting against the ESC aft, and I cut off fwd end of the box!

To get the COG where you want it you may end up with the ESC on top of the battery to get the weight aft.

Thanks, I did study your picures MANY MANY times and I liked what you did. I also like the shape of your box but mine ended up kind of square.
I am planning to leave enough clearance below the ESC should I find it necessary to move the battery that far back. Thanks for the tip!

[tlandauer]

Looking good Tim.. With the steering cable on my VS-1 I used Loctite 638.. On the ball link or just plain clevis you can use either but I would use the ball link you can make more adjustments with less bind..

Jim, thanks man, I really dig your VS1, I like that tunnel actually more than the TS3, but wanted to have a FG hull plus the price at Tower Hobbies was ridiculously low. I looked at your photos more closely now and I see what arrangement you have for the steering cable. Yeah, I was thinking the same thing with the 638 Loctite. Thanks for the tip!

[kendt]

[QUOTE=tlandauer;509874] 6s and t180ESC! Which tunnel are you running? Must be blazingly fast!

Its a ts3 as well. It took some serious head scratching to get a t180 in it. I hope to be testing it this weekend and if all goes well I may be able to get a vid of it running.

[dirtnsnowrider]

Nice to see you start the TS3 build. I would be very interested in the overall weight of the boat when everything is installed with batts. I will have to re-weigh mine as I have forgotten. If the weight is not too much higher than my lay up I might go this route with my TS2 I am working on.

[marko500]

Its a ts3 as well. It took some serious head scratching to get a t180 in it. I hope to be testing it this weekend and if all goes well I may be able to get a vid of it running.

Never mind the vids of it running. I want to see pics of how you fit the T180 esc in there. My son has a 32" Woodstuff and I wanted to put a T180 in it but there was no way I could get it to fit.

[tlandauer]

Nice to see you start the TS3 build. I would be very interested in the overall weight of the boat when everything is installed with batts. I will have to re-weigh mine as I have forgotten. If the weight is not too much higher than my lay up I might go this route with my TS2 I am working on.

This is also my concern: I have a feeling that it's going to be a bit heavy. I got no time to build this weekend, but hopefully next week would make some progress. The length of my battery dictates that I remove the fuel tank platform, so with everything on the hull, it is a lot heavier than your TS3, I am sure.

[tlandauer]

Its a ts3 as well. It took some serious head scratching to get a t180 in it. I hope to be testing it this weekend and if all goes well I may be able to get a vid of it running.
Its a ts3 as well. It took some serious head scratching to get a t180 in it. I hope to be testing it this weekend and if all goes well I may be able to get a vid of it running.

I like to see vid of your tunnel running and how you managed to fit the t180ESC in it as well.

[siberianhusky]

Lookin ok for rain until this afternoon, hope to see this thing hit the water today!
LOL bringing 3 boats today, not going to be a spectator/retrieval guy! SHould have known better than to bring one brand new boat to the pond.
If this thing runs like the HotShot 7.5 it will be scary fast!

[tlandauer]

Any videos yet?

[tlandauer]

So the work goes on: the box is too narrow for the cable to enter from the back, it might be my miscalculation, but I had to improvise to circumvent this issue:DSCN3793_3979.jpg DSCN3809_3994.jpg DSCN3808_3993.jpgDSCN3796_3982.jpg DSCN3800_3985.jpg

[tlandauer]

DSCN3814_3999.jpg, I used CA on the tabs as it will be fast and clean.DSCN3818_4003.jpg DSCN3827_4012.jpg, checking for cable clearance for battery:DSCN3816_4001.jpg, next I installed blind nuts under the servo tray support. I want to be able to lift the whole thing out for maintenance, not just the servo, too many a time the little wood screw strips the wood!DSCN3823_4008.jpg

[tlandauer]

next shows sealing the wood with epoxy. I like how the color and wood grain is bought out :DSCN3825_4010.jpg DSCN3830_4015.jpg.
The open space in the rear portion is not flat, had to use wood blocks to support the box. DSCN3843_4028.jpg Using this unusual inboard CC monster motor to weigh down the gluing process!DSCN3844_4029.jpg. CF thin strips on both of the walls to act as lid stop and reinforcement:DSCN3848_4033.jpg

[tlandauer]

This shows the funky wood rails that is embedded in the hull from the factory, they are not even straight, oh well, $89 bucks from Tower, made in China, what can one expect?!DSCN3859_4043.jpg, attaching the box finally: DSCN3860_4044.jpg .
Light weight suspended ESC mount: ( had to come up with a fancy name,) DSCN3863_4047.jpg, DSCN3866_4050.jpg, it is high enough for the battery to slide under should the COG dictates that position.
DSCN3867_4051.jpg.

[tlandauer]

Internal layout. The lateral beam of the ESC supports the cable tubes as well as the wall of the box! DSCN3870_4054.jpg DSCN3872_4056.jpg DSCN3873_4057.jpg DSCN3875_4059.jpgDSCN3887_4071.jpg

[tlandauer]

About 95% done:DSCN3888_4072.jpg DSCN3883_4067.jpg DSCN3884_4068.jpg DSCN3894_4077.jpgDSCN3890_4074.jpg
One thing was not expected: this particular UL-1 motor has its wire exit at either 1-2 o'clock or 7-8 o'clock, depending how you rotate the motor in its mount, I could not get the wire on the other side because at that position the wires would be bend in such a way that they will have unequal length thus precludes the possibility to mate with the ESC wires, this is the best I can do, I have to look into my bins to see my other UL-1 motors' wire exit---must say I have a few of them and they all exit at the "correct point"
Thanks for looking, sorry about the long windedness!
Cheers!

[kendt]

Any videos yet?

The last time I had it out I had a couple issues and didn't get any real good runs. Those dam plugs on the back of the transom leak like crazy on mine. I have since corrected the issues and swapped out the motor for a dr mad thrust 3674.

Im hoping to have it out in the next cple days.


Great job on your build. I like how your cables mount. May have to steal that idea for my hotshot 45.