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Thread: SV Prop

  1. #1
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    Question SV Prop

    Hello gang, I'm new here. I am an expierenced rc guy except for boats, brushless and lipos!! haha...Anyway I just bought my first rc boat a SV27. Im going to run her bone stock for now as I learn the ropes of boating and this whole brushless/lipo deal. My question is what prop upgrade does a newbie like me want to get. Should it be balanced? berillium or anther matl.? Any help would be great. Thanks

  2. #2
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    Default

    For 20"-27" hull use: 3 cell LiPo or 8 cell NiMh, KV motor of 3500-2500kv with prop of 35mm – 46mm Diameter.

    For sporting the carbon fiber are good and cheap-good place to find out what prop. will give you what you are looking for in your setup/run time. Once you find the sweet spot get that prop already balanced and sharpened from OSE.

    They don't HAVE to be balanced but SHOULD be for may reasons. If you must have a "modified" prop, Beryllium is the way to go yes! Since you are new it may be more to balance and sharpen yourself for now unless you are willing to learn and try. Ideally, Octura X440, X440/3, X645, X646 X646/3 are all good props to run/start with. Stay with the X series to start off. Others here will suggest other types of props.


    Peace~
    Last edited by SweetAccord; 07-08-2008 at 08:11 PM.

  3. #3
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    Default starter prop

    The cf 45 from ose is a good bang for the buck prop and alot better than the stock one. On this site has a good search program and you will find all you need to know there in the sv section. The sv is a r rotation and a 3/16 shaft.
    SV 27,brushless mini vee,renegade rigger,twinstorm,micro drifter,super hawaii , 1/12 miss budwieser

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  5. #5
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    The SV should run two 2s lipo packs in series as that is how the stock speed control is wired. I agree that the cf45 is a good cheap choice I use it a lot and I also use a Grimracer 42x55 sharpened and balanced.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by motoxbob11 View Post
    The SV should run two 2s lipo packs in series as that is how the stock speed control is wired. I agree that the cf45 is a good cheap choice I use it a lot and I also use a Grimracer 42x55 sharpened and balanced.
    I use about the same set up in mine with pretty good results.I run 4s 4300 lipos and with the 42 prop it gets about 40mph.I just tried the Octura x445 this last weekend but forgot my cheapy radar gun but it was significantly faster although the motor was pretty hot afterwards.
    Ghost

  7. #7
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    Default

    CF45 or X642

  8. #8

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    Whether you run 12s Nimh or 4s LiPo batteries the K45 prop works good and is a direct bolt on to the SV27 with no balancing or sharpening required.
    Me and a friend drive SV27 boats with Graupner K45 (commonly called CF45 here on the forum) props and I find them cheap, fast, bolt on ready and easily available from my LHS and Offshoreelectrics web shop.

    .. We ding a lot of them up from collisions and flip overs when racing, so the low price is definately good for a beginner with bad cornering discipline :)

    I suggest you get a few of these to run in the beginning and if (when) you feel like spending some more $ and get some bling you get one of them those metal jobs. :)


    (Note: I have no experience with metal props, but I feel I get good performance with the K45 and at a price 1/4 of a GM berylium prop, I like them even more.)



    This is what I'm talking about:

    Link

    Product ID: grp-2317.45
    Graupner K Series 45mm
    Diameter 45mm(1.77"), Pitch 1.45x45=63mm or 2.48"
    Shaft is 3/16"
    Last edited by Test0055; 07-09-2008 at 05:54 AM.

  9. #9
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    Default Thanks

    Gee Whiz......THanks for all the responses....Just ordered a couple k45 props. What do I need to seal around the stuffing tube and areas like that that might leak????

  10. #10
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    There are full threads on here someplace. I did one or two online with pictures. You should pull everything apart and use a little 100% silicone to reinstall it, that make a good seal and acts so the nuts bolts etc dont come out. I also use it around the tube, but use zpoxy on the inside after you set the tube in a correct alligned position. that sould seal the boat hardwere, then do something with the antenna, and change the motor cooling jacket and your boat will be solid. I still have yet to tighten anything on my original 2 boats, both are water tight from the day I did the job to them.

    Fixin to run my white one today with a new prop...heheh got some lipos straped in for this test. Its a 3 bladed secret prop...heheh shhhhh

  11. #11
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    First test of the secret prop.... maybe it needs to stay a secret cause it stinks so far. With the 5350 lipos set a inch forward the boat cavitates and just is sucking air the whole time. The boat is really set up for a M445 or X642. I will make a tiny adjustment and strap in a set of my IB3600 packs in the stock position in the boat and see how that makes a differnce.

    http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n...t=MVI_1906.flv

  12. #12
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    I've found that with the lighter lipos I have to move the packs forward quite a bit to get the CG correct...like 3 inches or more from the stock battery tray location.
    HTH
    Ghost

  13. #13
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    Well this concludes my little test of this prop on the SV. Its safe to say I dont like it at all, thinkin the prop diamiter is to little. I will try it out on my tunnel and if no good... I will have a balanced 1740/3 up on swap.

    http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n...t=MVI_1909.flv

  14. #14
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    What type of silicone do folks use on these fe boats? where can I get it?

  15. #15
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    I get mine at the local hardware store-adhesives/caulk (I use aquarium sealer/cement )

  16. #16
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    donka rex

  17. #17
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    Walmart 100% pure silicone in the color is clear. I see it all over but you need 100% pure silicone. I am sure others work but this I know works

  18. #18
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    anyone have pics of how to grease the stuffing tube? What type of grease do I use?

  19. #19
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    Speed Grease works well >http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/products.php?cat=77

    As for how to grease? Remove the wire drive and apply a light coat of grease and slide it all back in, nothing complicated really.

    http://manuals.hobbico.com/aqu/aqub17-manual.pdf <Page 6 Motor and Drive System Maintenance

    Page 5 even already has a good prop suggestion to use. Octura X440, X440/2, X640, M440, ABC 40x53, 40x52/3, Prather 215, 220.

    Peace~
    Last edited by SweetAccord; 07-09-2008 at 05:10 PM.

  20. #20

    Default

    Yes it's in there.

    Basically you undo the coupling on the motor output shaft with a 12 and 10 spanner and then yank @ the prop...The whole cable will slide out.
    Clean the flexshaft with wd40 or similair and smear some grease on it, then sllide back in, re-do the coupling with the 12 & 10 spanner and you're good to go.

    ps. Keep a 3-4mm gap between the drivedog and strut, the flexishaft need this clearance to have room to contract at high speed.

  21. #21
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    I like to start lubing about 1/2" back( to not grease that bit of shaft that goes into the coupler).
    bathtub caulk would prolly work...might be a tad messy tho.
    rex

  22. #22
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    I like the grim racer grease. It sort of gets better with age. I dont clean the shaft with wd. I like it to cake in the knooks and crannys.. Maybe its just me but I just give it a quick wipe and a little rubbed into the shaft and thats it. With a new boat you need to put more for a while till it builds up.

    I will try another prop this week, I have to balance it and 3 bladers are a PIA. I wont ever do it again. I will just buy on from a prop guy or OSE.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ice329 View Post
    I like the grim racer grease. It sort of gets better with age. I dont clean the shaft with wd. I like it to cake in the knooks and crannys.. Maybe its just me but I just give it a quick wipe and a little rubbed into the shaft and thats it. With a new boat you need to put more for a while till it builds up.

    I will try another prop this week, I have to balance it and 3 bladers are a PIA. I wont ever do it again. I will just buy on from a prop guy or OSE.
    I've been balancing an Octura X440/3 for days now. Yeah PIA! Almost perfectly balanced.

  24. #24

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    Hey guys, i am new to r/c boating but i was wondering does the X642 need to be balanced?

    mike

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by gumby View Post
    Hey guys, i am new to r/c boating but i was wondering does the X642 need to be balanced?

    mike
    Yes - and sharpened also.

  26. #26

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    thanks, how can i get it sharpened and balanced?

    mike

  27. #27
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    Buy one already sharpened and balanced from OSE

    or get the unsharpened and balanced one and have Egneg sharpen & balance it for you!
    "A quick temper will make a fool of you soon enough."
    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Bruce Lee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

  28. #28

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    k thanks diego i didn't see those props, ill just buy that.

    mike

  29. #29
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    Well since we are on the topic, this is coming out:



    http://video1.hobbico.com/gallery/aq...575-deluxe.mpg

    I prefer the magnetic Top Flight though.

    Peace~

  30. #30
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    Question

    I balanced my first prop last week, Octura X440/3.
    How sharp does it need to be ?

    On the aquacraft-models page, Mike says to get it "Razor" sharp.
    Im having difficulty getting it any sharper than lets say the standard CF prop that came with the boat.

    Whats the benefit of making it sharper, higher RPM ?


    Thanks 4 any comments,
    Berry

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