Just got my boat and not really too impressed with just Velcro pads to hold the packs down, has anyone come up with any better ideas??
AJ
Just got my boat and not really too impressed with just Velcro pads to hold the packs down, has anyone come up with any better ideas??
AJ
Proboat BLACKJACK 29
i just use the 2 inch wide industrial strength Velcro it holds great.
Its not the boat its the driver http://namba2016fenats.com/
Whiplash,Sprint Cat, Pursuit, 83' Miss Rock modern hydro JAE21, Dragon M11 Tunnel, Mickey Beez Jet, CF JAE21
Pool noodles work good,
Or I just use some neoprene wedge on mine.
For running and testing setups and moving CG around for speed runs.
Wider Velcro is a good idea :)
Proboat BLACKJACK 29
industrial strength velco,just dont use too much works great.
Note that the industrial strength velco is so strong that you are likely to rip the battery trays out of the boat when trying to remove the packs (the stock glue is pretty brittle, so this happens frequently). If that happens, just reglue it with a good epoxy.
Chief
I just use a sheet of this on the boat and battery: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Velcro-Sti...Black/17338080
This happened in my mystic. And after re epoxying the wood trays down, I bought some Spartan battery hold down straps.
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I just had both of my battery trays in my MG come loose after a good roll. On of them split in half which is a bummer. Guess I should have added some epoxy from the get go for strength! So I am thinking ill be ordering some new trays from OSE but they aren't as wide. Anyone had to replace them yet?
Mine ( MG V1) came loose after a flip, got to say that it was the best thing that happened after the incident. Got rid of the stock trays---ther are too high, sitting flush with the tunnel floor, I had a difficult time fitting a pretty "standard" sized 4s, 5000mah battery in the sponson. I just cut two ply wood strips, narrower than the stock so they can "sit" lower in the sponson. I also made them longer so the batteries can be moved to achieve the desired COG. For the strip of ply wood to seat correctly, I placed two small pieces of the same wood underneath so the long strip of wood can be glued ( epoxied) on the floor of the sponson level. I use industrial strength velcro strap to tie down the batteries. I NEVER use velcro on the batteries direct as I learned a painful lesson one time: cracked a DF 45" Sniper hull yanking the batteries loose from the velcro.
Last edited by tlandauer; 05-18-2013 at 01:36 PM. Reason: Clarifying it is on a MG V1
The more ordinary 1" wide diy type Velcro is a waste of time if your not using straps as well, the industrial heavy duty is much better as it hold unbeleivably well with no straps. When sticking to the lipo dont put it the length of the battery, as said youll pull the bottom out of a rtr hull as it hold that well. I put a few small pieces along the lipo, enough to hold well but still removable without ripping the bottom out of the hull. When i do a new boat or battery i start with just a couple of small pieces on the lipo & try the fit, if its not holding quite enough i add another piece or two untill im happy.
I just make a cell holder out of pool noodles,
Once I know where the setup right and CG is.
I just cut out a hole in the noodle the size of the biggest cell I may use for the boat,
And put the cell in the hole and if I use a smaller cell I just add some wedges to fill the gaps.
You could put a strap around cell and noodle to,
If you think you need it for a big blow over if your pushing limits of speed for the hull that day.
It makes easy in and out with cells for me.
Plus more flotation in the hull to.
No ordinary 1" DIY Velcro double sided tape. But I won't use the industrial stuff any more after the incident. What I do is in addition of using the straps which do not hold the slippery battery well, I wrap a friction mat around the battery---the kind you buy in hardware store that looks like a net but very soft. After the wrapping I tie down the battery with the strap, it is as sucure as they come. DSCN3413_3614.jpg DSCN3414_3615.jpg
Lenny,
Do you use hobby knife to carve out the pool noodle? I never have success doing that. Mind if I ask you for a picture, sounds like a good idea.
Here's how I hold mine down kinda like Lenny says, in my mystic. Cut for a snug fit, and the outer bullet is wrapped with heat shrink to protect the heat from the foam noodle. The noodles go all the way to the bow, and transom. It was a pain to get the front noodle pieces in without ripping them to pieces. But way worth it in the end. My batteries sit nice and tight, yet I can slip them in and out with ease.
So on your battery trays did you also make the m narrower so the batteries sit lower?
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"Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
Billy Graham
Jim-not sure if you're asking me, but no, my battery tray's are stock...
Great call - I am going to go that route I think, I will fab up some carbon trays i think and epoxy them in lower with a support down to the bottom of the sponson. I also had a close call using velcro on the battery, would have been easy to tear the boat in half! thanks for the insite. If you have a pic I'd really like to see the set up. Cheers
Yes that looks good,
I see you cut the rail some to.
Does it make it a little easier getting the packs in and out easier ?
That is what I was going the do next.
And also I was going to get rid of the trays so mine 4s 5300mah genace will fit in the sponsons to,
Also to lower the CG in the hull to.
When I was testing I just had the cells wedged with a small piece of foam and the and this neopene wedge,
And it held good in the flip to.
But the motor moved a little to the starboard side.
The cells are 4s 40c 4000mah packs in this picture below.
stands 043.jpgstands 044.jpg
37"Daytona.
Attachment 0FC Daytona 022.jpgFC Daytona 023.jpgFC Daytona 024.jpg
ind stregth velcro.
The velcro is a PITA when trying to place cells for testing in the sponsons,
And so is taping the hatches.
That is why I mod them with a seal and a hold down of some kind,
It just makes testing and running boats so much easier and so much more fun.
yes,i used pieces of thin wood from hobby lobby and cut them and put them on an angle.my lipos now sit lower and on an angle.ill have to show you pics so you can see.
Lenny- actually the previous owner cut the rails like that, not me. I believe it does make the packs easier to get in and out. But I wouldn't know otherwise. I used velcro at first but it became a PITA. The previous owner also had filled the bow with ping pong balls and it was driving me nuts. So I got the noodle idea while surfing around here on ose. Then I figured I could cut them right size for a snug fit for the lipo, and do away with the Velcro. It works like a charm.
Just for extra time on the water ill throw in a single 4s and I shove that up in front of the motor with a nice snug fit as well. It bounces like this but it's just to get some extra run time on the water.
Yes,
Pictures would be great.
SloHD,
2s pack are easy to get in and out,
I run 2s pack and 4s packs in all my boats.
But with 4s packs things get a little tight and the rail is in the way of the big 4s packs,
Also the trays.
I see you are still using the deans and 3.5mm plugs,
The 5.5 bullets will let the boat run a lot better in the long run.
Is that a fan I see in the picture for the motor ?
Here are some pictures of the simple wood strip, it is much lower than the stock trays by almost 3/8'', I just wanted something narrow enough to sit in the sponson.DSCN3417_3617.jpgDSCN3401_3602.jpg
Here is what I mean by wrapping the batteries in the friction mat. Here is my MHZ Lizard Xtreme:DSCN3420_3620.jpg
Lenny- I know what you're saying about 4s packs. I come from road racing so I'm just using the packs I already have for now. Eventually I'd like to get a pair of 4s packs and lower the trays like tlandauer has there.
As far as bullets, I just ordered them last night. I ordered some 6mm for the motor. And I ordered some of those new castle 6.5mm connectors for the lipo/esc. Not sure if you've seen those yet but they look extremely nice...
As far as the fan, yea that's a fan. Since installing an x642 my temps went up a little too high for my liking. So I decided to tinker around and cut out the scoops on the lid. I hot glued metal screen to cover it up and help prevent too much water from getting in. It's sounds sketchy but too my surprise it works pretty well. I end up with just a few little tiny droplets on the underside of the lid. Very minimal hardly worth mentioning really... So I threw the fan in since I had some air flow in there now. Of coarse this is running solo and the lake I run at is always glass. I would probably not run it like this otherwise. I run my boats just for fun, no racing or saltwater.
Sorry for huge pics. :)
The scoop came out good,
I was thinking of modding for some air cooling at one time.
And I found some material that let air in but not water,
But that was back in the days when I was new to boating.
And was running my Rio ep brushed and pushing speeds and tweaking what I could get out of it,
That was the whole start of this madness.
What where your temps at their hottest before the fan ?
I use that friction mat as a blocker,
To stop the velcro that is in some of my boats and on some of the used cell that I have bought on hear.
I also it to stop the camcorder from slipping on the side of the TX when strapped on it.
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