Octura M or X

[J.W. Pepper]

Great info in here!

+1

One of the most informative threads on this forum. Thanks to all who contributed

[J.W. Pepper]

J.W. Pepper.

That must be the case but I'm not sure how & what the effects are. We'll have to wait for Randy.

You said in one of your posts that all you wanted was to be pointed in the right direction.
Let me point you here.
http://www.fastelectrics.net/fe_manual.php
If you read each chapter in the manual you will be a long way to understanding the idiosyncrasies of this sport. It's certainly helped me.
Since we're talking props, start with the chapter 'Propeller Effects'.
Cheers.
Paul.

Paul - thanks much, I bookmarked it, I will spend plenty of time there.

[detox]

What's the difference between M445 and X445 all the spec seems the same.
Thanks,

Other than having less tungue the M445 has smaller hub and thinner blades than the X445. M445 is probably the best prop to learn on (cutting and bending).

Thin is in.

[J.W. Pepper]

This is all well and good for monos.
So what's the go for serious outboard FE F1 tunnels?
I currently have a range of Octura X series props ranging from X430 through all variations to X450.
All are balanced and sharpened per me.
I currently have a Thunder Power 6S 8G 70C LiPo setup running thru a Swordfish 300 Pro Plus so power is NOT an issue.
This is delivering to a variety of TP 4060 (1800 - 2100 Kv) brushless on a TFL OB leg.
BTW: From my ski race experience: There is a little thing called the "paddle wheel effect".
This is a semi-surfacing propeller's desire to "walk" sideways" across the water at the same time as pushing the boat forwards. - aka as "chine walking".
I've experienced this problem 1st hand having done a 180 loop at 100+ MPH.
My once dislocated shoulder still aches!
Dual counter-rotating propellers or offsetting the horsepower supply sorts the problem out.
WTF would I know???

Dual counter-rotating propellers or offsetting the horsepower supply sorts the problem out... here's how Mike "Grim Racer" Zaborowski addressed that issue in the Mini Mono... http://manuals.hobbico.com/aqu/aqub1805-tech.pdf - top paragraph. Sure he's done it with other AQ models as well.

WTF would I know??? Lot more than me on the prop subject, and many other aspects of R/C FE boats as well; don't sell yourself short. I'm here to learn from people like you.

Thanks for your help.

[Brushless55]

Dual counter-rotating propellers or offsetting the horsepower supply sorts the problem out... here's how Mike "Grim Racer" Zaborowski addressed that issue in the Mini Mono... http://manuals.hobbico.com/aqu/aqub1805-tech.pdf - top paragraph. Sure he's done it with other AQ models as well.

WTF would I know??? Lot more than me on the prop subject, and many other aspects of R/C FE boats as well; don't sell yourself short. I'm here to learn from people like you.

Thanks for your help.

interesting what he said about the o rings on the rudder...

[larryrose11]

Cool thread

[rotarypower101]

The thrust cone isn't a part of the prop more a function of it. 47mm would be considered on the large size for a 27-30 inch hull. Yes different hull types react differently. Have a look at sweet accords gallery, should be a pic illustrating a thrust cone.

WOW, lots of good pictorials in there!
Thanks you for tiping us off.
And to SweetAccords for condensing the information to one location.

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=991

[Speedracer128]

Thanks for the info. Now I need to go back to read the links