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Thread: New system installed!

  1. #61
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    Ok, so u do NOT recommend running it like this? I kinda figured that was gonna be the outcome, would loc-tite help at all???

  2. #62
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    Loctite could help but, if it seeps into the stub shaft, then you may have trouble getting the prop off.

    Cheaper, simpler fix may work is to use a proper Octura or Aeromarine locknut. They are shorter and start locking on the first few threads.

    Someone on here long ago said they were called something special if you wanted to order them. Something like an aircraft locknut where the bore is almost oval to create locking as soon as you get one or two threads on.

    It's your call. Nice prop and would not want to lose it. Ahh, the urge to get on soft water, I feel your pain sir!!!
    Nortavlag Bulc

  3. #63
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    Was it an M445 or an x445 with the tongues cut off? An x445 has a huge hub.

    If you have a grinder you could quickly grind off 1/16" from the back of prop hub.. Remember a mask!!! BerCopper!
    Nortavlag Bulc

  4. #64
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    I am not sure, I bought it from a user on this site, it's an m445 that's about all I know!!! Hahaha, ya I'm setting all my boats up for my first river trip! I ALMOST put off putting the prop on until I got to the river, I'm glad I didn't though!!!!
    Edit: if someone could chime in about what the name of that prop nut he is talking about would be great!

  5. #65
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    Ok I'm taking a couple measurements and right now the shaft, FIRST makes contact with about 12mm of PROP shaft left, about how many mm would the collet need at the least to have a secure lock??

  6. #66
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    If it says M445 on the end it is M445 if it says x445 it is a cut x445.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  7. #67
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    Doesn't leave you much if you take out 4mm max leving you with 8mm in the collet.
    How much space do you leave in between the drive dog and the strut? If it was me and only me... I would remove the plastic white washer but, that JUST ME. It is there so in case of mistake (loose collet) that it doesn't start grinding your strut to all heck.


    Quote Originally Posted by Megabiker98 View Post
    Ok I'm taking a couple measurements and right now the shaft, FIRST makes contact with about 12mm of PROP shaft left, about how many mm would the collet need at the least to have a secure lock??
    Nortavlag Bulc

  8. #68
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    Ooops, I may have mislead you to think you can just mash the drive dog against the strut. No no, make sure you leave 3-4mm space for cable shrinkage otherwise grinding will be nasty and break things.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  9. #69
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    Ya I know for a fact it's an m445! Lemme rephrase this in hopes of making it more understandable! Hahaha. So when I have my flex shaft where I want it to be to drive, it is pushed ALL the way into the collet. Ur saying if I move my drive dog back about 4mm it would still make good contact and the collet will still grip the shaft well?

  10. #70
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    And I usually leave about 2mm inbetween my drive dog and strut
    Quick question, moving the drive dog won't affect anything, just freeing up room correct?
    Last edited by Megabiker98; 04-08-2013 at 03:52 PM.

  11. #71
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    Yes, freeing up room is what I'm trying to help you achieve. You have to leave a min. 8-10mm in the flex collet and you have to have a good 2-3mm space between the drive dog and strut.

    The flex collet you have I have in my hand. When the clamp nut is removed the splines are 7.25mm long so you don't want any less than 8mm in the collet but, any more than that is doing nothing but sitting in an unclamped .150" bore. Eventually you will most likely benefit from a better cable but, this should do for now.

    I think we are clear as mud by now right? Kidding.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  12. #72
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    Alright, so I was gonna move the drive dog a little, just to check it out (I made marks were it was before I moved it) but as I moved it, there's like a flat spot, for the grub screws, but the flat spot doesn't go far enough back to move the drive dog at all! I am almost positive that putting a grub screw on a rounded surface won't do anything right? (Won't do anything as in, wont contact or hold anything it's meaning to hold

  13. #73
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    This is another snag I was thinking you may run into. You MUST have a flat spot for the set screw of the drive dog or you will go nowhere.

    So, now if you move it back a bit, the flat spot has moved. To fix this you need to grind the flat spot further back so the set screw can hold onto something 4-shure.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  14. #74
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    Dangit, I had a feeling set screws needed a flat surface! Hahahah, going back to the loctite talk, if I applied the loctite to the nut itself, then screwed it on, it would reduce the possibility of it getting into the prop threads right???

  15. #75
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    Yes it would. Are you using Blue or the weak Purple stuff? In this case Blue is better.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  16. #76
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    I'm gonna use the strongest stuff I can find! Hahahahaha, even then on the first run I'm gonna be bringing it in as it will be my first time using the boat on a longer wide open run, so this will be added to the list of frequent checks every time it's brought in! Lol

  17. #77
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    All the best. Hopefully you don't lose that prop!
    Nortavlag Bulc

  18. #78
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    Ya, I'm super nervous cause I DON'T not want to loose it!! If I do, hopefully the divers that have been there the last 2 years will be there this time and can help me out!!! 😂

  19. #79
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    Ran it a couple times this weekend, about 4 times or so ROUGHLY, the first time I ran it, I had the strut set to where u guys told me at first, and I am not positive but I think that was to much of an adjustment as it was pushing into the air a lot, but the wind was blowing into it also, flipped it 2 times the first run. Brought it in after the 2nd flip cause I was scared to death after that! Hahaha, 2nd run I decided to lower the strut to level with the sponsons, and ran it like that and it ran quite a bit better! Wouldn't say it was great but it was definently good! Wasn't flipping, and when it did start to get light on its heels I let out and it came down. The next couple runs ran exactly the same, and I was gonna run it this morning before we left and get some vid for u guys but I THINK the charger overheated or something. It stopped working and I only had 1 battery charged up so I couldn't get any video of it running! Flex shaft stayed in place this time moved MAYBE a mm at most and the prop didn't come loose it stayed on there good! And also if anyone has had the same experience with the over heating charger let me know what I should check. I have a thunder ac680 charger!
    Last edited by Megabiker98; 05-13-2013 at 10:32 AM.

  20. #80
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    So I ran it a couple more times today, at strut level with sponsons, ran it with this setup about 3-4 times, and it was still a little light as flipped a couple times. But it was windy, so the day came when the water was glass, and I ran it then and it still did the same thing, so I decided to make a change knowing that it wasn't setup properly yet, so I moved the batteries about an 1 inch forward ran it in slight chop/wind and it ran a little better so hopefully I can find out more next time I'm out!

  21. #81
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    Ouch, so loctite definently does work. I am currently taking the prop off as I got a new one from kintecracing, and boy is that but on there GOOD!!!! It's giving me a little trouble!!!! Hahaha

  22. #82
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    If you use a little heat on the nut it will come off a little easier for you,
    Just try not to heat anything else up.
    Use some foil as a barrier to black the heat from things.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

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