Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 31 to 60 of 82

Thread: New system installed!

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    253

    Default

    I'm stuck in the middle, I wanna get a new radio and I wanna get the m445 prop, I don't know which to get first. Radio im getting is the flysky gt3c, or a sharpened and balanced m445. If I get the radio I'm afraid they will run out of the sharpened and balance props. I wanna get te pre balanced prop because I don't have enough time right now to sharpen one. What do u guys think I should do?

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    MA
    Posts
    1,876

    Default

    The prop will give more performance than a radio change will

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    8,732

    Default

    My suggestion would be either the GT3B or the latest FLYSKY RC Model FS-iT4 4ch 2.4GHz

    The power button on the steering wheel for the GT3C is known to shut the radio down because it pinches the power switch wires when you steer. You don't need to fix a brand new radio.

    That said there are some crazy deals on some name brand 2.4G radio's lately too.

    Just thought I'd warn ya.

    Quote Originally Posted by Megabiker98 View Post
    I'm stuck in the middle, I wanna get a new radio and I wanna get the m445 prop, I don't know which to get first. Radio im getting is the flysky gt3c, or a sharpened and balanced m445. If I get the radio I'm afraid they will run out of the sharpened and balance props. I wanna get te pre balanced prop because I don't have enough time right now to sharpen one. What do u guys think I should do?
    Nortavlag Bulc

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    253

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    My suggestion would be either the GT3B or the latest FLYSKY RC Model FS-iT4 4ch 2.4GHz

    The power button on the steering wheel for the GT3C is known to shut the radio down because it pinches the power switch wires when you steer. You don't need to fix a brand new radio.

    That said there are some crazy deals on some name brand 2.4G radio's lately too.

    Just thought I'd warn ya.
    I have heard of this problem before and thought I read something about it being fixed with the new gt3c (green) version? Was that just a rumor? Hmm. Ill have to look into the name brand sales!!!
    I'm still undecided about the choice though, most likely prop is gonna get priority!

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    8,732

    Default

    Good choice. You will like the prop much better.

    I dunno, just my buddy bought a GT3C and it crapped out on him. Lucky he had someone to re-rig it.

    The green could be better but, why chance it right now. China will keep pumping out more 'stuff' faster than you can think.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    253

    Default

    Is it really that big of a difference? . Ya I don't I will wait a little while to get the remote and do a follow up and see if the green is fixed or not! Sounds like a plan to me! Hahaha

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    nj
    Posts
    4,288

    Default


    Also move the water lines on the motor,
    If you can spin the jacket so the out let nipple is on top and in the center of the motor.
    You want the water coming in at the bottom nipple on the jacket,
    This way it fills the hole jacket up to the top nipple.
    Than going out the hull, You will have 25% more water in the jacket that way and better cooling.
    What other boats and radios do you have ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Megabiker98 View Post
    Ya last time I set it up on a table it was level, ill check again tommorrow morning. And I am running 2s packs! I watched ur video, can't wait to get mine to an open lake!!!!! My local pond is pretty compact!!! What prop do u have on urs?
    Edit: yep strut is set level with the sponsons on a table
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    253

    Default

    I just took a look at raising it 3/16 up, and BOY does that seem super high, do u mean 3/16 from level with sponsons???

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    253

    Default

    Ok what about this water route configuration?? Just wanted to see if this will work without having to take it off? Ill take it off if it won't work though
    I only have the mystic, and an on road car. I am looking into another boat, that won't be for a while though! Hahaha
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    nj
    Posts
    4,288

    Default

    That will work better,
    The jacket should spin in the boat if you add some soupy water in the nipple,
    And around the out side of the jacket O-rings.
    Just work it a little.
    Tactic radio's work good for me and the rx is pretty cheap to, I use one tx and I have 10 rx's.
    You just bind all the rx to one tx.
    I have a gt3b but never try that yet.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    253

    Default

    How much should I spin it around 90 degrees 180???

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    nj
    Posts
    4,288

    Default

    Till the exit nipple is on top of the motor,
    Like this.
    stands 043.jpgstands 045.jpgstands 048.jpg
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    253

    Default

    Alright that would make sense!! What is ur strut set at?? Is it the way the prop is supposed to be, it looks like it has a little ding in it towards the center??

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    nj
    Posts
    4,288

    Default

    Yes,
    Prop has lots of TLC and modding to it.
    Strut level with the sponson's like I said before.
    I also modded the rudder pin to take up the looseness it had,
    Still looking things over for more idea's on modding a few things.
    And also the trays for easier 4s cells placement.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    253

    Default

    Hmm alright ill try strut level with sponsons then 3/16 from there and see how it does! What did u do to the rudder pin?? Ur talking about the little slack it has forward and backwards correct?

  16. #46
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    nj
    Posts
    4,288

    Default

    Yes, And side to side to,
    I made a new one out of some soft aluminum round stock.
    And I think it will brake the pin first if I hit something hard in the water,
    To save the transom from being ripped out.
    When the water get warmer I may need to find more cooling to,
    For hot weather setups.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  17. #47
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    253

    Default

    On my boat I need more cooling??? DA*****!!!!!! That's where the majority if my running will be, the river! It's typically around 110 or so, water temp of around 65-70!!! Where could I get more cooling at? Like placement wise?
    Edit: whoops misread that! Hahaha I thought u put a "u" not an "I"

  18. #48
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    nj
    Posts
    4,288

    Default

    You may be ok with those water temps on 4s and your setup,
    If not just prop down to lower the amps and drop some heat on that setup.
    You will lose a little speed but still have fun running it.
    I may test some water pickups I made on this boat.
    And also may sand the bottom of the hull with 400 grit sandpaper,
    That will let the hull air out more and run with less drag to.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  19. #49
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    253

    Default

    Ya slower can mean more fun, longer sometimes! Hahaha. If u do end up doing that let me know how it ends up plz!! Where did u place the pickups, r they just the stray ones that run off the transom?

  20. #50
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    253

    Default

    Lenny, have u done anything a to ur bushings??? I have heard of some people saying there is a problem with that? What would it sound like or would there be any indication of a problem with it?

  21. #51
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    nj
    Posts
    4,288

    Default

    I have not fixed that yet,
    But need to, It is very loose on mine at the prop shaft.
    Pro boat used some cheap bushings in the strut,
    And they will wear fast if the prop is not S & B to.
    It will wobble up and down and side to side if you move it with your fingers.
    I may use these to fix it.http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-16-lead-te...-/140352337980
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  22. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    253

    Default

    How do u replace it?? Does it just slide right out the back? I was going to get the replacement from kintecracing, http://kintecracing.com/Miss_Geico_U..._redirect=true

  23. #53
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    nj
    Posts
    4,288

    Default

    A little heat to loosen it and they should press out,
    And the new ones press in.
    I know the racer use the ones I posted,
    But not to sure about the one you posted.
    Try a search on that one.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  24. #54
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    253

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lenny View Post
    A little heat to loosen it and they should press out,
    And the new ones press in.
    I know the racer use the ones I posted,
    But not to sure about the one you posted.
    Try a search on that one.
    Quick question, when I raise the strut should I try to keep it as level as possible when moving it up and down??

  25. #55
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    nj
    Posts
    4,288

    Default

    Yes,
    keep it level with the sponson's.
    It get's enough air under the hull,
    You just need to find the right CG for the cells.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  26. #56
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    253

    Default

    Wow, when I put the m445 on, there isn't very much room to thread the prop nut on, is there anything I could do to secure it more? Is that usual? The threads don't even go half way through the prop nut!

  27. #57
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    8,732

    Default

    Do you have a stock flex shaft or an upgraded one? I had no idea you would run into this situation.... sorry. Maybe you could pull the flex out of the flex collet some (3/16") if there is enough left to clamp and then move the drive dog back for more threads???
    Nortavlag Bulc

  28. #58
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    253

    Default

    Yes I'm running stock prop shaft and cable, ill take a couple pics to show u how much it is holding on!

  29. #59
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    253

    Default

    The first one shows how much threading I have to work with, the second is the nut threaded on!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  30. #60
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    8,732

    Default

    Measure how much flex goes into the flex collet. If you can pull the cable out a bit without compromising how well the cable is held, then you can move the drive dog back some.
    Otherwise you may be needing a new shaft so the cable doesn't destroy itself at the collet and take the collet with it or more.

    Some people are good at shaving down the drive end of prop hub and take a bit of the tips of the drive dog but, a new cable could be the easiest fix...

    BTW, I do no buy pre made upgrade cable because I can handle cutting soldering the new cable. Just make sure what you buy, that it has a longer stub shaft so you can put any prop on it. I pretty sure the one Steve sells at OSE has this figured out BUT, I could be wrong!
    Nortavlag Bulc

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •