New HK Mono

[hookedup]

It would be nice if they sold the motor separate as a repair item or something? The 36x60 one that is.

i know right?? kinda weird that this motor is in a few of their new boats, and they dont sell it just by itself.

[ray schrauwen]

They might. I noticed they sell some replacement parts.

[785boats]

HOR Racing sell some of the black TFL motors as their SSS series. I have a couple & they run strong & cool.

Here's my Outer Limits maiden run. All stock except the prop which is a 440/3 blade. After the run the motor, batteries & ESC were only 'Tepid'. Barely warm. I did run an M445 on it too but it was more unstable in the turns. But again there was no temperature in the motor, ESC, or batteries.
There's heaps more speed in it yet. But I'll have to learn how to set up a stepped hull properly first. Especially the turn fin. It's set up vertical like the rudder. A common practice in Europe & Asia with stepped hulls from what I've seen. The turns get very skippy if I tried to turn too tightly.
Any info on setting up a stepped hull would be greatly appreciated. Stinger angle, COG, turn fin, etc.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etd8EgIaIqo
Cheers.
Paul.

[lenny]

Looks like it running pretty good,
May be if you tilt the rudder in 1/8" that will help a little in the turns with the skipping.
Have any pictures of the setup and cell placement,
Also setting on hardware you just ran ?

[egneg]

I would make the turn fin perpendicular to the bottom. My El Lobo IV skipped in the turns until I got the setup right and I fried a couple ESC's in the process. As lenny said moving the rudder in a bit will help to plant the stern.

[785boats]

Thanks for the tips guys. I will certainly be trying that today.

Set up on that run was as it came out of the box.
Stinger Parallel with the last step. I've since read that it should be parallel with a line drawn from the first step to the transom. This will effectively put a bit of positive into it, in relation to where it is now.
Turn fin vertical and as deep as it would go.
COG. The pack was run where it is shown in the first pic. This made it 32% from the transom.(not the back of the boat). It's the black mark on the side hatch lines. The transom is actually level with the rear hatch line
If I put the COG at just in front of the first step, the battery needs to be where it is shown in the second pic. That makes it 37% from the transom. The forward black line on the side hatch lines.
I bought this because I've never done a stepped hull & this thing just looked so good. And I've got to say It is well put together & beautifully finished.
The only draw back is the brittle hot glue type stuff they use to fit the motor mounts & trays. They don't scuff the glass or wipe the 'waxy' finish off with a bit of Acetone before gluing anything in. The battery tray in mine had come adrift in transit.
That's why I epoxy some carbon rods in along the join lines in all of these types of boats.
As always, any help will be appreciated.

Paul.

[iamandrew]

thanks for the pics and stuff, im thinking about getting one of these to replace my persuit that I hate. Not sure If i want to get this one or the smash shark.
I like the hatch on these boats compared to the persuit, they are flat where they join the deck of the boat, so taping them up works a lot better.
I know these boats are cheap and flimsy, but for the cost of re enforcing one of these, they are worth it!

[ray schrauwen]

Does the flex shaft come out the stinger or is it the square drive captivated type drive line?

[iamandrew]

I think its a 3/16 square drive 2 piece

[785boats]

Ray.
Yes. It is the two part drive but the beauty of this one is that the flex & the stub are both 3/16". So putting a welded flex & stub shaft in will be a piece of cake.

Andrew.
The hull itself isn't flimsy at all. It's really quite tough. The steps really stiffen up the bottom of the hull.
How can you hate the Pursuit? They are a great handling boat. Much better than this one (so far).
I'd be interested to see how the Smash Shark handles.

I tried out a few changes last Saturday but made the handling worse. After angling the turn fin out to be perpendicular to the bottom of the hull instead of parallel with the rudder, the boat spun out too easily in a sharp turn. Changing COG or stinger angle didn't help.

But that motor ended up spinning an M447 prop with ease to give the thing a good turn of speed. Still nothing got hot.
Those TFL motors are really powerful little beasts. I've got a 4074 2200kv & a 3674 2075Kv motor & they are the same...strong & cool running

Cheers.
Paul.

[egneg]

Ray.
Yes. It is the two part drive but the beauty of this one is that the flex & the stub are both 3/16". So putting a welded flex & stub shaft in will be a piece of cake.

Andrew.
The hull itself isn't flimsy at all. It's really quite tough. The steps really stiffen up the bottom of the hull.
How can you hate the Pursuit? They are a great handling boat. Much better than this one (so far).
I'd be interested to see how the Smash Shark handles.

I tried out a few changes last Saturday but made the handling worse. After angling the turn fin out to be perpendicular to the bottom of the hull instead of parallel with the rudder, the boat spun out too easily in a sharp turn. Changing COG or stinger angle didn't help.

But that motor ended up spinning an M447 prop with ease to give the thing a good turn of speed. Still nothing got hot.
Those TFL motors are really powerful little beasts. I've got a 4074 2200kv & a 3674 2075Kv motor & they are the same...strong & cool running

Cheers.
Paul.

How sharp of a turn? Sharper than the buoys on a oval race course? You may need a larger turn fin.

[Tunda]

Did you run that m447 prop on 4s?

[785boats]

egneg.
It does get around the turns at our larger race course at our other lake. But the course in video, in my first post, is much tighter & I can't get around it as tightly as I can with any of my 'normal' race monos. Yet.

One problem I feel, is that the turnfin bracket is mounted about an inch inside the chine on the transom. There's no room to move it out to the chine as the bracket will be dragging in the water. The transom between the bottom of the hull & the overhang is too narrow. I might try to jig something up there. But I was also thinking of trying a bargeboard turn fin like I've seen some European set ups have.

Tunda.
Yep. That's a 4s boat.

[iamandrew]

So its not possible to make the turn fin bracket higher?

[Tunda]

Got mine ready to test also thanks for the info. I was going to try it with the stock flex shaft set up but decided to change to a 150 cable it was simple to do the 150 liner fits inside of the stock liner and put it back in the stock stuffing tube thats it.........150 cable with 3/16 prop shaft.

[785boats]

Andrew.
No. The bracket is hard up to the underside of the overhang and any further out towards the chine would have it dragging in the water. Have a close look at the last two pics in post #66 & you'll see what I mean.

Tunda.
You do realise, don't you, that pics & a video are compulsory.
I, for one, will be interested to see what settings you end up with & what your thoughts are.


All the best.
Paul.

[Tunda]

001.JPG002.JPG003.JPG004.JPGWell here is some pic of my set up turngy 120 speedo going to try a 440 prop first and 150 cable .... see what happends.....Aloha from Hawaii

[hookedup]

IMG_2311.jpg heres a pic of the drive hardware

[hookedup]

we ran Tunda's boat today, testing props as my boat is getting the wire drive treatment at the moment. this run was with the stock prop that came with the boat. the prop that came with my boat is clearly marked 438, Tunda's had no markings what so ever, none the less its the prop that came with HIS boat.



this one was with a 40mm prop



he ran about 8 laps before i realized that i wasn't filming this run was with a 45mm prop. and here is the gps of the laps before this.
IMG_2321.jpg

we did a total of about 15-20 laps using one 4s 5000 turnigy battery pack started with the stock prop and moved up from there. motor and esc never got more than warm after 8, well almost 9 laps, with a 45mm prop! more to come soon.

[785boats]

Like I said in an earlier post. Those TFL motors are efficient, strong cool running motors. An M447 doesn't get that motor more than warm either.
As you discovered, you need to move the COG forward a bit as the speed increases. Did the battery tray stay attached to the hull during the flip?
I notice you can't take the turns at full noise. It's starting to skip even as reduced speed.. What are your thoughts on the turn fin?
But it is a fun boat though. Eh!!

Paul.

[IRON-PAWW]

Shipped one of these to Aus. Always a mixed bag as to how r/c boats arrive when shipped here, I think simply because of the distances and number of steps involved. This is the worst case of travel attrition I've seen yet. The boats have enough packing in the box around them - but definitely need better packing inside the hull. My entire motor mount assembly had ripped off the hull in transit and was rattling around inside the hull. That stuff getting thrown about has also dislodged the battery tray as well. So...... Guess I'm left with a bare hull to work with now.

I'll try an email to Hobby King to see what milage I can get.

What glue do you guys recommend for reaffixing the motor mount?

NOTE: Seems that the Kintec Racing 3/16 one piece upgrade shaft for the Pursuit with strut will fit this boat. I have one of those shafts here, as I also have a Pursuit, and although my OuterLimits is in bits, looks like a damn close fit to me. The motor mounting outlay in the Pursuits looks identical to what these boats have. Definitely worth checking out!!!

[hookedup]

As you discovered, you need to move the COG forward a bit as the speed increases. Did the battery tray stay attached to the hull during the flip?
I notice you can't take the turns at full noise. It's starting to skip even as reduced speed.. What are your thoughts on the turn fin?

yeah, we talked about moving the battery back after running with the stock prop, but thought we'd leave it to see how she handles with a bit more prop. He got about 8 good hard running laps with the 45 and it only got loose once on the end of the back straight away, but getting off the throttle settled it down. battery try stayed put. im gonna add some epoxy to mine, as one side barely has any glue. im not sure about the skipping in the turns and the turn fin. i guess i doesn't bother me too much as long as it holds speed through the turns, though id like to get the turn fin a bit more perpendicular to the flat of the vee of that side. i think that would fix it. maybe someone will jump in and give advice. its a nice running boat, runs right about at the 50mph, (which is what we were looking for), motor/esc temps are a total non-issue, and so far the inside was completely dry. we are both super stoked!!

[785boats]

IRON-PAWW.
That's a damn shame, but very common with TFL boats.
Go up & look at post#66. You will read that I had a similar problem when mine landed in OZ too. Not as bad as yours though. If you look at the pics you will see the carbon rods that I Epoxied along the mounts & tray. This approach always works on these boats. Be they Mono, Hydro, cats or riggers. It's the first thing I do to them when I get them. Even if they haven't broken loose.
In your case, I would mark the positions that everything was in the boat & then remove all that brittle Hot Glue type stuff from both mounts & hull, & Epoxy the mounts & tray back in. Then add the 1/4" carbon rod or tube with lots of epoxy. But first sand the hull, where ever glue will be touching it, with some 120 paper then wipe the area with some acetone. This gets rid of the 'wax' that sets on the surface as the resin hardens when they mold these things.
That's a habit to get into whenever you glue something to fibre glass of any type. Unfortunately they don't do it at the TFL factory. If it doesn't break in transit it usually lets go in a good 50mph tumble. And that causes even more damage.
PS. DO NOT get any acetone on the outside of the hull. It will ruin the finish.


Hookedup.
I think you need to move the battery forward a bit. Just to keep the nose from lifting. I find that mine works best with the front of the battery level with the front of the tray.
I'v tried the fin perpendicular with the bottom of the boat & in my opinion it was worse.
I like to have my boats able to take the turns at full noise. If I can't, I consider the boat not set up properly. Backing off for a turn in a race can get you from 1st to 3rd in half a lap. I know you are not racing, but the principal is the same. Fast straights & fast carving turns.
I have to agree with you though It is a great boat for the money.
Although at this point, I don't think IRON-PAWW would agree.

[IRON-PAWW]

Oh no - it looks like a decent hull alright. Like others, the stepped hull intrigued me, and it does look pretty slick. Added to that it'll be one of the easier hatches to tape closed. Just a pity the glue they used on the motor mount & battery tray is weaker than tissue paper! Good 3/16 driveline too, plus decent collet from the get go, so should be a decent performer from the box - if it arrives in one piece.....

Thanks for the advice 785. Where do you source your carbon rods from? What epoxy do you use?? Got some Loctite epoxy which seems ok. Guess it's better now than at 50mph like you say. I'm still going to see what milage I can get with the HK complaints dept - not a lot I fully expect, but worth a try.

[785boats]

Carbon rods & tubes are usually sold at your local hobby shop. I'm sure there's three or four over there. Failing that, I've bought carbon rods & tubes from Hobbyking.
http://hobbyking.com.au/hobbyking/st...ass_Fiber.html
I always get my Epoxy from the Reject Shop. It's called Super Epoxy & is in the twin syringe dispenser. Only $3.00 & as good or better than Selleys or Bostik that you pay 13 bucks for at the hardware shop. It's holding boats together that I built over 12 years ago.
But Hobby King also sell good epoxy & other adhesives made by Bob Smith Industries. Good Stuff.

All the best & good luck with HK regarding the damage.
Paul.

[Tunda]

I dont think we can get the skip out of this boat when turning by looking at the bottom of the hull but we will see what happends love the look of it and runs pretty good out of the box............

[tlandauer]

IRON-PAWW,
As much as I hate to see things like this happening, I would venture to say that it is a mixed blessing: you have a clean hull to re-attach all the components, just some good sanding and make sure everything is clean. Imagine if it takes much more to remove the remnant of epoxy, there might even be damage! I speak from first hand experience from a HK Pursuit I witnessed. The owner wanted to yank out the battery tray but couldn't , so he used a hair dryer to blow heated air, in the end, the hull below the tray was slightly warped.
No doubt after your restoration the boat will be better than it was from the factory, happy boating!

[IRON-PAWW]

Yes a mixed blessing at the end of the day tlandauer. Have gently begun sanding and scraping the original glue out of the hull. Not too hard as it happens. Have found some minor hairline cracking in the hull though, now that I've looked at it closely. Right at the tip of the 'V' that goes across the hull, which you can see clearly in my pic. Will be OK but I'll strengthen that area just to be sure.

HobbyKing really need to pack out the inside of the hull better, that heavy motor attached to those light mountings, coupled with long distance freight is asking for trouble.

Still no word from Hobbyking. My request is being 'processed'. I'm not going to send it back if that's what they suggest (which they probably will). I'll just do the rebuild as I need a project now in any case.


785
Thanks for the info on the carbon rods. Sounds like it will be the go.

[tlandauer]

Sorry to hear the hairline crack though, is it inside or outside on the gel coat? I only see some lines near the transom.

[785boats]

Tunda.
The unstable turns seems to be common to these stepped, shallow V hulls from the videos I've seen of European & Asian racing. But the barge board fin seems to be the best at keeping them somewhat more settled. I'll try one this weekend if I get the time to make one up. I've got a few boats to get ready for a race meeting on Sunday. Unfortunately they all need a bit of attention in some way or another.

IRON-PAWW.
Another method, if it's easier, is to run a fillet of fibre glass cloth & resin along the join lines of the mounts & hull. Again prepping the mounts & hull with the sandpaper & acetone first. That is of course, if you have some resin & cloth lying around. It can be expensive to buy for such a small job.

I've got a direct link to Monica at TFL. I will send her a message suggesting that the factory might want to look at prepping thee hulls a bit before gluing in the mounts. We'll see what she says.
They've made great improvements in their boats over the last 5 years, I feel, & this is one of the few remaining issues.
Cheers.
Paul.