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Thread: Cutoff Voltage on a Seaking

  1. #1
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    Default Cutoff Voltage on a Seaking

    Hey guys,

    I've never had an LVC work properly. I set it and still puff cells.
    What is the lowest safe cutoff voltage on one of these? I set it sometimes and it cuts off after a lap lol!

  2. #2
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    It depends on the cells, the better they are the higher the cutoff you need as they will drop less voltage under load, my 20C turnegys are empty at 3.2v under load, my 20C ETTIs are empty at 3.3v, and my 65C Thunder Powers are right up at 3.4v/cel when they are empty.

    Note I said empty, the racing I do is endurace racing and we use all the capacity we have knowing it reduces the packs lifespan, but there are better new cells out every year anyway so if you run a set for 2 seasons you would want to upgrade even if your old ones were still factory fresh, if you want best life out of your packs you should lave about 20% capacity in them to avoid them heating up at the end of the discharge and to do that you will have to set higher cutoff voltages than my examples above, I don't race my cars and run 3.4v/cell on the 20C Turnegys, and 3.5v/cell on 30c Turnegys which leaves about 20% in the tank.

    Above is based on Castle Creations controllers which seem to be pretty accurate and are almost infinitly adjustable, whether Seakings are accurate enough to cutoff when they should or adjustable enough to cutoff at voltages high enough for modern cells I have no idea.
    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by NativePaul View Post
    It depends on the cells, the better they are the higher the cutoff you need as they will drop less voltage under load, my 20C turnegys are empty at 3.2v under load, my 20C ETTIs are empty at 3.3v, and my 65C Thunder Powers are right up at 3.4v/cel when they are empty.

    Note I said empty, the racing I do is endurace racing and we use all the capacity we have knowing it reduces the packs lifespan, but there are better new cells out every year anyway so if you run a set for 2 seasons you would want to upgrade even if your old ones were still factory fresh, if you want best life out of your packs you should lave about 20% capacity in them to avoid them heating up at the end of the discharge and to do that you will have to set higher cutoff voltages than my examples above, I don't race my cars and run 3.4v/cell on the 20C Turnegys, and 3.5v/cell on 30c Turnegys which leaves about 20% in the tank.

    Above is based on Castle Creations controllers which seem to be pretty accurate and are almost infinitly adjustable, whether Seakings are accurate enough to cutoff when they should or adjustable enough to cutoff at voltages high enough for modern cells I have no idea.
    Paul, I've been getting similar results, thank you for confirming that I'm not nuts lol!
    Sounds to me like I need to play with the settinhg and check with a meter to see where my cells like to be set.

  4. #4
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    I can tell you that the default setting on a 180 is 3.2v per cell but mine was cutting back on me at 3.9v so they are not accurate and all, therefore I usually turn my cutoff way down but not off.

  5. #5
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    Most Seaking & Turnigy 120a & 180a (same esc) suffer with this problem, they have an over sensitive lvc & this very problem have been discused many times on this forum. Most turn the esc down to the voltage where the lvc dosnt cut in to early or even no lvc & time run time, paramount that you keep an eye on run times though as these lvc are just not reliable though. Ive seen friends with this problem puff sells buy using the lvc, i allways time runs.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by martin View Post
    Most Seaking & Turnigy 120a & 180a (same esc) suffer with this problem, they have an over sensitive lvc & this very problem have been discused many times on this forum. Most turn the esc down to the voltage where the lvc dosnt cut in to early or even no lvc & time run time, paramount that you keep an eye on run times though as these lvc are just not reliable though. Ive seen friends with this problem puff sells buy using the lvc, i allways time runs.
    I've had 4 180A (2x seaking 2x turnigy) ESCs and have had this happen with 3 of the 4. Now I turn off the LVC and time my runs and hasn't had this issue since. It was even happening less than 20 sec into a run with full packs. I have noticed that the LVC seems to work ok when they are new, but after a few hard runs the problem seems to occur. The other issue I have found with 2 of them, 1 turnigy and 1 seaking is that the LVC will kick in and then go back to normal while the throttle is still applied causing the boat to behave unpredictably. Turning the LVC off stopped this problem as well. I use the TX from my planes with my boats, it has a programmable timer that you can start/stop and an audible alarm when the time runs out. I set the timer for 1 minute, run 3 sets of packs at full throttle for the minute and then monitor how many mAh are put back in. Once I know that I can work out how long I can run at full throttle to hit 80% pack useage and adjust the timer from there.
    Cars and planes are for fun... Boats are for serious racing Bust Out Another Thousand

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSnakeRacing View Post
    I've had 4 180A (2x seaking 2x turnigy) ESCs and have had this happen with 3 of the 4. Now I turn off the LVC and time my runs and hasn't had this issue since. It was even happening less than 20 sec into a run with full packs. I have noticed that the LVC seems to work ok when they are new, but after a few hard runs the problem seems to occur. The other issue I have found with 2 of them, 1 turnigy and 1 seaking is that the LVC will kick in and then go back to normal while the throttle is still applied causing the boat to behave unpredictably. Turning the LVC off stopped this problem as well. I use the TX from my planes with my boats, it has a programmable timer that you can start/stop and an audible alarm when the time runs out. I set the timer for 1 minute, run 3 sets of packs at full throttle for the minute and then monitor how many mAh are put back in. Once I know that I can work out how long I can run at full throttle to hit 80% pack useage and adjust the timer from there.
    Smart man...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackSnakeRacing View Post
    I've had 4 180A (2x seaking 2x turnigy) ESCs and have had this happen with 3 of the 4. Now I turn off the LVC and time my runs and hasn't had this issue since. It was even happening less than 20 sec into a run with full packs. I have noticed that the LVC seems to work ok when they are new, but after a few hard runs the problem seems to occur. The other issue I have found with 2 of them, 1 turnigy and 1 seaking is that the LVC will kick in and then go back to normal while the throttle is still applied causing the boat to behave unpredictably. Turning the LVC off stopped this problem as well. I use the TX from my planes with my boats, it has a programmable timer that you can start/stop and an audible alarm when the time runs out. I set the timer for 1 minute, run 3 sets of packs at full throttle for the minute and then monitor how many mAh are put back in. Once I know that I can work out how long I can run at full throttle to hit 80% pack useage and adjust the timer from there.
    Thank you for your info I learn something new all the time on OSE Forums.
    Mike

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