You are conjuring memories of my water exits on the Shocker.
You are conjuring memories of my water exits on the Shocker.
Love the apps for smart phones! This level has come in handy many many times! And very accurate too!! I wanted to use a piece of aluminum in the rudder support area, taped so I don't have to worry about getting nuts and lock washers in there.
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This style pull-pull rudder is a rather tricky thing to install. I never used this style before. After messing with it, it became obvious that the ram arms have to be very specifically placed. Rather complicated to setup. Measure twice cut once. Well I measured many times, arms have a specific travel distance, and they have to be on the exact same mounting plane. But after alot of measuring and marking I was able to be exact and only drill one set of holes.
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I did mill two angles on the bottom of the rudder mount. The boats mount pad was a touch smaller than the mount. This was necessary to cut from bottom as the ram arms would not be able to be mounted higher.
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Another layer of cf/Kevlar in the forward hull and in the sponsons. If it looks bad well it's a p.i.t.a. For me to get to!!!
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I ran some light fiberglass cloth from top, into rudder mount area and then up the hull to help tie in the rudder support area. Another shorter piece of one inch cf tape for the rudder and ram arm area.
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And a light weight layer of unidirectional prepreg cf to the top of the hull as this was the only area that wasn't reinforced. There will be engineered bulkheads installed also. Yes alot of reinforcing but I'm planing on going for some serious speed and would like this to have a fighting chance at staying together. If not done right the first time it always ends up being harder to fix once broken.
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And the powerhouses came in today!!!! Once I get her set up and running well I'm pulling the serius motors and going to push the envelope with these 1527 1 y neu's.
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Wow bud,those 8mm shafts make for a beefy lookin motor.
Yes, makes the can look and feel really small! I'm working on some simple cf motor mounts, pain to keep sanding a little bit and fit, sand and fit,,,,,
Hey I still think of that shocker sleeping down there! Hope she resurfaces sometime, I'm retiring mine, pulling electronics for another project, maby sell the hull.
Hey, that is how I do it.Just hand tools here. Patience,patience.... Hehe (sorry,I'm on the hunt for a new GF lately)
The rescue mission shall resume when temperatures are back to an acceptable level.
Last edited by srislash; 01-19-2013 at 09:22 PM. Reason: removal of shameful spur of the moment comment
Just wanted to say your doing a very nice and detailed job on the boat. Should be really strong hull when your done. Great work. Bruiser
Thank you! I wasn't sure anybody was reading along, not many comments. I have been wanting to make a really strong hull, from past experiences I have found areas to reinforce more. Even though it's alot of work it's better to do it now before a high speed crash reveals another area that was in need of reinforcement. Always a balance between strength and weight. Again thanks.
I think that is a smart idea Coop with this larger hull.The above 36" hulls seem to blow apart on impact.
Worked on the motor mounts. I had several ideas but ended with the simplest. The thicker plate will be cf clothed to sides bottom and top then the thinner one will cover the cf weave, almost making a sandwich type of plate. And some more reinforcement for the deck. Mostly vertical forces so this will just be epoxied in place.
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It nice too follow some of the different builds going on here , gr8t work cooper , i'm keeping more simple for my 1st build .
Hey great work cooper, it shows this is being a very carefully thought out build. I wish I was a bit more methodical sometimes instead of "eyeballin," the last few parts to hit the water lol. I see you're in PA, when is this guy going to hit the water? I'm in NY right now waiting for the maiden of one of my bigger boats but 25 degree weather is keeping me inside.
Yea I'm stuck on land for awhile too. I'm in central pa just south of Williamsport. I figured I had to build slow and stretch it out over the winter so it became more involved. And this one is going for speed so maby the little things will add up and factor into this boat hauling and most importantly staying together!!!! I'm planning on posting the build and paint then will have to wait till at least April. That's when I get bact to the river lot. Depends how nice the river is going to be in spring and how easy it is to get to if something happens. So gonna say wet pictures arnt in the works till mid April. 25 degrees? Hear ya, same here, and getting ready to go plow the road, we were supposta get a light dusting ,,,,,,,,, well you know what thought thought don't you??? (he thought he farted but ,,,,,) :) anyway its cold and water is frozen here too!!!
Changed out the flexible cable guides. I'm running the rudder cables through lined brass tube. Will put thread savers (the little colored vinyl caps) on the ends and pack the line with grease for waterproofing and lubrication. Just makes for a more rigid set up and the servo will bolt through hull.
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I found these led light housings that would work well for through hull water exits. 5/32 brass fits tight. Nice bezel set, I think that have them at RadioShack for different size LEDs.
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I decided to make some longer water exits. These will have a lock washer and nut on inside of hull and 5/32 tube glued inside so waterline can be slipped over them.
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Cool servo mount, nice work.
"There's nothing else I really want to do other than get up and build boats." - Mike Fiore
Tacked in the motor mounts. They may look to be a bit forward, but the center of gravity should fall around 30~35 percent with the ability to shift up to a little over 40 percent. As this is going to be a saw set up it may be needing to be a bit forward than the normal 30 percent.
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The motor mounts are getting glassed in place for an added security. I believe credit goes to daren Jordan for telling me the technique of using Fiberglas backing to keep clean edges, thanks. The motor mounts give a unique approach to trying to use one piece of carbon cloth. This is why I decided to use the matt. I used 1/2oz Fiberglas cloth with spray adhesive over the carbon fiber. Just a very light mist of spray adhesive is needed then gently lay the cloth over and press it together. This will enable me to have very clean edges that will have a good resistance to coming apart.
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There is a 1.5mm cf plate going over top of these so the mounting surface will remain smooth.
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very nice work, I'm in the process of building my first FE and your techniques are giving me some much needed knowledge. Thanks for sharing!
Just trying to return the favor for those that I have watched build. This is the best boat forum! If you have a question on a set up most likely someone here has the answer, and if not some pretty experienced minds can stear u in the right direction. I've picked up most of my ideas from others, always helps when someone else shares what not to do as well as what to do. Good luck with the build and post it here. (a tip in posting a build for the first time, say what you are going to do, if it isn't right someone will chime in and save you the hassel of making a mistake ). So thanks for takeing the time to look into my build.
I really like how you setup the brass tubes for steering. I kept the cable housing used (similar to bicycle shifter cable), I just stripped back the outer casing and glued it inside of a few water outlets and screwed them into place, works ok. Once again great work and you're definitely giving us a lot of ideas so there will be less "head scratching,' on future builds haha.
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