MADD CATT -41" fantasim saw build

[Cooper]

....and clean. It is always a good idea to have everything laid out and readily accessible when epoxy time.


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[Cooper]

After laying in the cloth pressing corners and squeegee the excess resin I laid wax paper over (resin will not stick to unbroken wax paper) hatch and clamped a wooden template so I will end up with a small lip, gap , to accommodate foam seal.


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[Cooper]

Trimmed excess cloth and edges ending up with a better, stronger hatch.


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[Cooper]

And added one light coat of filler (pc 11 marine paste epoxy) to smooth out where the scoop was. After that dried I sanded down. It's hard to get the pic but it is smooth and ready for paint.


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[Cooper]

One of the parts I hate! I don't know what the white semi hard pad is in the rudder support but whatever it is it isn't flush. And the seam glue was mounded up. In order for a better lay of reinforcing I ground this material down somewhat flush. It doesn't look pretty but it's getting covered with carbon plate and carbon Kevlar weave. These are the pics of before and how I go about doing it. I backlight so I don't have to worry about holding light and use a flex shaft grinding tool.


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[Cooper]

One more of before


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[Cooper]

And like I said it isn't pretty but it's done.


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[Rocstar]

I had the same issue is my Fantasm hull. Instead of using a cf plate like I wanted, I used layers cf cloth and built the area up around the excess seam glue.
Looking good!

[Chilli]

On my Rivercat SAW boat I flooded the entire transom with Locktite Hysol Aerospace Epoxy. It made that transom extension extremely strong. So much so that I had a blow over that bent the heck out of the rudder and strut. To make matters worst, I had to take a pair of channel locks to the strut to straignten it back out. To this day she doesn't even have a stress fracture in the gelcoat.

[LOVE6S]

On my Rivercat SAW boat I flooded the entire transom with Locktite Hysol Aerospace Epoxy. It made that transom extension extremely strong. So much so that I had a blow over that bent the heck out of the rudder and strut. To make matters worst, I had to take a pair of channel locks to the strut to straignten it back out. To this day she doesn't even have a stress fracture in the gelcoat.

I was thinking of doing the same, did that much epoxy add much weight?

[Cooper]

I wanted to do the same but with this hull the rudder support, I think , is too deep. I think it would add too much weight. On my ekos/river I did the same thing as you described. I usually don't run a shear bolt, just tight rudder, but the one and only time I did I hit something! (should have known-usually used nylon but this time I used the brass!). And it broke pretty good but not completely apart so that is why I did that to the king. I think I ended with a plate completely across the transom, never had a problem since. --we run in the river, usually clean water but the occasional carp, turtle, stick, always something unforeseen. -- I even thought of chopping down the rudder mounting area on this hul so I could do that but I think it was just going to be too much more work unnecessary. Plus I would have to fing really long bolts.

[Cooper]

I use this "blade runner" saw with a ceramic blade to cut cf. I have just about every saw from work but for the hobby stuff this little saw has proved itself. I use a rather high tec gadget for fitting pieces.

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[Cooper]

Then the tape comes off and a little dab of ca so I can place it. I used simple 5min epoxy with fiberglass filler. Whatever was oozing out the sides I smeared over the rough areas as it will be a touch smoother for laying cloth. And the dot in the middle is where the high-tec tool parted, epoxy was setting quick. I did stuff the cf sheet but not much as its getting covered.


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[alanr77]

Hello Cooper, build looks good. I like the attention to detail. It's those details that make a difference. I am about to do a similar build, with the same fg hull. No real speed goals other than to have fun with it. Following your thread. Alan

[Cooper]

Thanks Alan and welcome to the forum! I have several months before I can hit the water so paying attention to detail kinda stretches out the build time. It would be torture if I was done and everything frozen! Lol!!!

[Chilli]

I was thinking of doing the same, did that much epoxy add much weight?

It probably added a couple ounces but as Cooper said, your dealing with more volume on the Fantasm. You could also try adding a filler to increase volume of the epoxy without a significant increase in weight. With the power we have available today, I doubt the weight penalty will significantly effect performance. But in my case I was running a single with a rudder/strut combo hanging off the extension. So more stress on the pad but with overall less boat weight.

Nice work Cooper!!

[jcald2000]

Hot water from the tap works well, let it sit for 15 min's.
Don't melt the plastic bottles on the stove!!!

[Cooper]

Hot water from the tap works well, let it sit for 15 min's.
Don't melt the plastic bottles on the stove!!!

oops ,,I forgot to mention that. As in the picture, on counter not stove, I did just use hot water from the tap.

[Cooper]

Thanks to someone on the forum I got some cf from this company. Using 3" cf tape ( not tape,no adhesive-they just call it that) for the side seams and between the sponsons in the front. Then a layer of cf covering everything. There will be other support gussets also. This is just the wet lay up stuff. Not my favorite part but this tape and sewing the seams should help me out with installation.


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[Cooper]

Installation of another layer of cf. then I installed another layer of cf over the seams on the side all the way into the tip. Still have more to do!


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[Cooper]

And thanks to Keith (KBB) I have more work! Ha, got one set of motors. Will be able to start on the motor mounts.

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[Cooper]

And this is the "MAD CAT" inspecting the cat.


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[Cooper]

Another layer of 1" cf tape in the rudder support area, also reinforcing the seam.


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[Cooper]

The cat eyes, 2.5mm cf plate for stinger mounting reinforcing.


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[Cooper]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk HD1358216266.378338.jpg
I used craft foam with adhesive backing to make a template. Simply sick and then press the mount, the mounting holes will be embossed.

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[Cooper]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk HD1358216437.419227.jpg
This is the pipe I used to cut the foam, simply sharpened the inside edge to make it easier to cut. Just press and turn then pick out the hole.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk HD1358216451.403648.jpg
Using a dremmel tool to drill through the fiberglass, as the high speed and sharp point will not chip the gelcoat.
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[keithbradley]

Did you happen to mock those stingers up to see if you can get 0 degrees stinger angle? The 2 sets that I had like that had rear support stands that were a little too tall. I had the stingers mounted as far down as possible and still hade to modify them to work.
If this happens to you, you may be able to mill the stand down a bit. The other option is to fill the hole on the stinger with weld (where the rear support mount is bolted), trim it down, and lower the hole...that's what I did.

[Cooper]

I tried to get the stinger as straight as possible. And I was able to get away without having to modify the pedestal to get some positive angle, although I have the option to mill down a bit of the pedestal rod if need be.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk HD1358216987.814315.jpg

One done and repeat.

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[Cooper]

Did you happen to mock those stingers up to see if you can get 0 degrees stinger angle? The 2 sets that I had like that had rear support stands that were a little too tall. I had the stingers mounted as far down as possible and still hade to modify them to work.
If this happens to you, you may be able to mill the stand down a bit. The other option is to fill the hole on the stinger with weld (where the rear support mount is bolted), trim it down, and lower the hole...that's what I did.

I was anticipating having to do that. I figured if I had to there was room to shorten the rod and mill down a bit of the pedestal mount that would be able to easily get another 1/8 " , I think, but it looks like I will be able just keep stock.

[Cooper]

Oh those little mounting plates for the stinger support that go on the inside of the hull are going to be a real treat to set! This is like building a ship in a bottle, only you can't look through the glass, you can only look through the bottle neck and have your fingers n tools n light in the way!!! Ohhh and I love having big fingers!!! Lol!!!