MADD CATT -41" fantasim saw build

[Cooper]

And it starts again! Up on the block is a 41" fantasim hull. I'm building this with one purpose- to go fast, really fast. Starting the build is a standard fantasim hull, just picked off the shelf. This process may be long as I'm in cold weather and have three months until she can see her natural element. I am starting with serius 1520 twin motors but will end up with twin neu 1527 1y once all the bugs are worked out. Speedos will be castle creation 200 hv or swordfish 300. Haven't got them yet. Ill try and be as informative as I can and I wish the same from the members here. Everyone has opinions just as myself but I always entertain experience. I will try and say what will be done next and try to include as many pics as possible. (I always like the pics). Sooooo, I'll post some pics soon. :)

[Cooper]

Nice and white hull! Hatch definitely needs some reinforcing. The whole hull will be reinforced.


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[Cooper]

Some pics of the inside.


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[Cooper]

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[Cooper]

Ok well like I said this is a stock hull. Everything looks good. For anyone that has not had the pleasure of a build I will point some things out that need to be addressed. One there is not a bare hull that you can buy that does not need work ( filling sanding). How much you want to do is up to you, how do you want it to preform and how do you want it to look? I'm not as interested in cosmetic looks but I do want this one to preform so I will point out some imperfections that are just part of the building. As these are bare unfinished hulls. The bigger the hull the more work required. A flashlight to show the weave and seam. And the pic of my finger is NOT a bad seam, it simply has no gelcoat paint there from a light sanding of the seam area from factory.


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[Cooper]

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[Cooper]

I did highlight some areas that are not that photogenic.


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[Cooper]

Like I said this is not something that has to be done but I'm going into this. This is a pic of the ride pad, it looks good with lights on but when you really look at it you can see the ripple of the mold or material. Either way these will be filled/filed flat


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[Cooper]

For a lesser expensive hull I think it is pretty good!


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[Cooper]

Ride pads are pretty symmetrical and very even.


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[keithbradley]

Subbed. Best of luck with the build.

I don't think twin SF 300s will fit.
I have one here that isn't being used... If you want to see one in person and see how it fits in the hull let me know. I could ship it to you as long as you pay to ship it back.

[Rocstar]

Very cool! Good choice on the motors, the 1717's are a VERY tight fit. What stingers are you using?

[kingwrench]

Sf 300? Holy krap I use those with my neu 2215 2.5ys motors on 12S and never get warm. The are a huge overkill

[nata2run]

...."I'm building this with one purpose- to go fast, really fast."

How fast??

You may want some motors you can spin really fast like 40+k RPM or so. Definetly don't need SF300, SF240 is more then enough!
Even T180 can get you going with the right motors.

[Cooper]

Sf 300? Holy krap I use those with my neu 2215 2.5ys motors on 6s and never get warm. The are a huge overkill

Overkill? Well after reading Keith's post I actually looked at the dimensions, made some mock boxes and holy krap! They are huge!! I want the headroom in the amperage department.

[Cooper]

She is going to hit over xxx mph (goal hopefuls of triples) eventually with 1527s I'm going to be pushing mid 50k

[Cooper]

Very cool! Good choice on the motors, the 1717's are a VERY tight fit. What stingers are you using?

Yes , originally I was looking at the 1717's but just didn't want to put a s bend in. I did and have been for some time been thinking of a simple (robust) gearbox. Have motors flat. I'm using the stinger that have the pedestal mount onto the overhang. I kept bending the other ones on my shocker, not from crashes but from power, once they bent they just bend more.

[Cooper]

Subbed. Best of luck with the build.

I don't think twin SF 300s will fit.
I have one here that isn't being used... If you want to see one in person and see how it fits in the hull let me know. I could ship it to you as long as you pay to ship it back.

yes you are right too big! And I'll start this build for ya, thanks

[keithbradley]

once they bent they just bend more.

Same thing on my Explorer cat. Someone noticed it at the SAW races and I bent them back to straight. After every run I made, they were bent back in. I had extremely short stuffing tubes/flexes in that cat so it probably made it even more pronounced.

[srislash]

Yes , originally I was looking at the 1717's but just didn't want to put a s bend in. I did and have been for some time been thinking of a simple (robust) gearbox. Have motors flat. I'm using the stinger that have the pedestal mount onto the overhang. I kept bending the other ones on my shocker, not from crashes but from power, once they bent they just bend more.

Ditto on that,pedestals are a neccesary.But.. are you going with something like "click" drives or the ones from FC or HOR?
These puppies are nice https://www.mtc-powerboat.de/index.p...=13&produkt=85I just throw these out there as they have a larger shaft/bushing Dia so should wear better and be more stable.

[Cooper]

Ditto on that,pedestals are a neccesary.But.. are you going with something like "click" drives or the ones from FC or HOR?
These puppies are nice https://www.mtc-powerboat.de/index.p...=13&produkt=85I just throw these out there as they have a larger shaft/bushing Dia so should wear better and be more stable.

always nice to see more choices, one of the few things I have had for this is the stingers, the simple ones from fc and hor.

[srislash]

Same thing on my Explorer cat. Someone noticed it at the SAW races and I bent them back to straight. After every run I made, they were bent back in. I had extremely short stuffing tubes/flexes in that cat so it probably made it even more pronounced.

I had problems with mine bending outward on the Shocker.

[Rocstar]

Yes , originally I was looking at the 1717's but just didn't want to put a s bend in. I did and have been for some time been thinking of a simple (robust) gearbox. Have motors flat. I'm using the stinger that have the pedestal mount onto the overhang. I kept bending the other ones on my shocker, not from crashes but from power, once they bent they just bend more.

Ha. yeah an S bend is required...my tubes are very short with a slight s bend. I have also had issues with the stingers running out on me. Keith can point you in the right direction on what stingers work best with this hull.

[Cooper]

Working on the hull


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[Cooper]

I'm more concerned with the bottom of this boat than the top. Always try and get as sharp, square, clean edges on any surface below waterline. I always try for square below water and round above. Water exiting off an object into air will have less restrictions/turbulence from a clean square edge than a round surface. (at high speeds). I was rather happy with this hull as there were only a few places that needed extra work. Most were able to be cleaned up by just sanding.


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[Cooper]

Wanted a sun roof! Naaa, I want the complete sleek look so I removed the mock air scoop.


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[Cooper]

It seems wood has been disappearing from recent builds. But nothin like plane ole wood.

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[Cooper]

The hatch is just chop fiberglass and gelcoat. I'm reinforcing with carbon/Kevlar. I'm going to be using foam seal on the hatch with bolts. The wood around the perimeter will help in the mating surface of hull to hatch. The wood will be epoxied to the hatch followed by a cf/k weave. I made sever serrations in the wood as the hatch has a slight curve and it needs to stay for matching up to the hull. A layer of marine epoxy with milled fiberglass will cover the top of the wood where the air scoop was, then sanded flush.


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[Cooper]

After a trip to my mothers house I found her old singer sewing machine. Trying to explain why I needed it, sewing carbon and Kevlar, she thought I was making body armor,,,,lol,, I never used one before but after about 1/2 hour I was up and sewing! I have spray glued light fiberglass cloth to carbon/Kevlar cloth to get very clean edges. I have used tape on the edges so it would not fray. I have never used the stitching method so this was new for me. On this piece I did tape the outside before I cut but later for the inside of the hull I will just use the stitching , so that's when I'll be able to comment on how well it works for me. The painters masking tape is just to keep epoxy off the hatch. No matter how hard I try not to get it on my fingers I always do. Kinda like a kid with chocolate bar on a hot summer day, end up wearing it!!


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[Cooper]

Getting ready to cook! (not really cooking it! Just using warm water from the tap. Letting it sit for about ten minuets. The epoxy will flow better, mix better, and possibly set up quicker if working temp is around 70~80 degrees. )


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