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Thread: MHZ Mystic 114 - my first proper build

  1. #31
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    The drives in picture are set up as high as possible (towards surface). I might have been able to get them more parallel with the bottom of the hull if I'd mount them closer to the tunnel, but then I'd have got trouble positioning water intakes.

    However, I came up with an idea which could bring the drives closer being parallel with bottom of the hull. First of all, I'd need to reinforce the hull from inside with cp-plate and gf-cloth, then carve or make a hole similar of the squarish part of the drive support and embed it in the hull so that only the cone shaped part of the support is coming out of the hull. This would lower the support by 2.5-3mm and it wuold be almost enough to get the drives in zero angle.

  2. #32
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    Although you have that negative angle, it might still work! I have seen more negative then that on the MHZ114 with speeds in excess of 190km/h. (There is more to it then that, and im sure it had to be that way at those speeds to keep the nose down) (Check German forums and you will find) I would definetly run the boat and see what it does before drilling new holles. (no expert here, just suggesting) As long as everything is 100% aligned and drives are parallel with the sponsons both sides you might be fine. From memory, I think I ended up with that kind of angle on mine. My big MHZ 138 has about the same. Looked wired at first but she runs great!
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  3. #33
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    Default Progress at last!

    It's been almost too long since last update, but was again able to find some time to work with the boat.

    Had to rethink the function of the rudder as the hydraulic steering dummies were in too wide angle to work properly. I ended up modifying the rudder by moving the position of the pistons backwards from the pivot. This made it possible to bring the steering dummies closer to the centerline so the cables won't bend so much and the pull side works better. It was heartbreaking to chop the rudder, but gladly the modification turned out nicely so no regrets with that.

    Rudder_Final_1.jpg Rudder_Final_2.jpg


    While the lipo mounts and decals are coming from Kent, I was inspired to make the centerplate to hold the speedos and rudder servo. Didn't realize how demanding that task was as only tools I was able to use were a drill, dremel and different files. My hand and fingers still aches from all that filing .

    Step_1.jpg Step_3.jpg Step_4.jpg

  4. #34
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    Few more images of the finished plate holding speedos and servo. There are few scratches that came during the polishing as I couldn't have the protective tape on the cp plate anymore but in the end I'm happy how it came out.

    Final_2.jpg Final_4.jpg

    I'll be adding background plates beneath of the "mystic" and "114" texts with the hull color to bring them out more.

  5. #35
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    That just looks Sh*t HOT! (amused about the filing and dust.....hmm I know someone like that) not mentioning any names....... love that extended rudder . sometime I wish I kept mine, they sure are cool to run and fit perfect in my little lake here.
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  6. #36
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    Wow u did a great job makeing that plate she looks great

  7. #37
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    Thanks guys! It sure feels great to get such comments especially from someone who have built outstanding boats.

    Tested quickly those background plates with one layer of paint under the centerplate. Can't wait to get the second layer of paint and lacquer in. They looked just amazing, at least in my eyes!

  8. #38
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    For the background plate I would use a thin layer of acrylic or something similar with colored vinyl on top of it

  9. #39
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    Grate build so far! I love the work you did of the CF plate, that stuff takes some serious patient! I also thought of doing letters on mine, but didn't have balls big enough=) Keep up the good work!

  10. #40
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    Oh and TiTu, make sure you insulate between the CF plate and the motor solder joints underneath the ESC. If you look at the last posts in my HPR build thread you can see what might happen if you don´t=)

    Frank

  11. #41
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    @Chris: I agree, colored vinyl would have been easiest for the background plate. I just didn't have suitable colored vinyl to match the hull color available and wanted to get it done quickly.

    @Frank: Thanks Frank for the comment. I've enjoyed reading yor build thread as well, at least to the point where you lost your esc. Thanks also reminding me about the conductivity of the cf plate. That's something I've already learnt while browsing through the build threads here and I've already coated the parts of the cf plate with silicone which are under the pcb where the motor leads are connected. And just be be safe, I'll be coating the visible pcb and solderings of the esc with liquid tape.

    And here is a image of the cf plate with the background plates.

    Final_5.jpg

  12. #42
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    No problem, just didn´t want you to have the same experience as me=) Nice work, look very good with the yellow background plates!

  13. #43
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    wow that thing is a work of art. can't wait to see it in the boat.

  14. #44
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    TiTu-

    I agree with you on the drives. They are poorly engineered and the excessive negative angle is bothersome. While there are some youtube videos claiming crazy speeds (and crashing), I think my mystic is likely the fastest verified mhz114 on record, and I don't run my drives anywhere near that negative. Also, I think a lot of the people who run this hull are working around a problem (excessive negative drive angle) that makes it much harder to tune. I only splashed mine in the water a few times and it runs perfectly at higher speeds than most people crash this hull at.
    If you like, send me your email and I'll send you some pics of how I solved the problem. It took me some brainstorming, but I came up with a bolt-on part that solved the issue.

    Beautiful build so far...very nice work!

  15. #45
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    Thanks for the kind words. Hopefully the rest of the build comes out at the same way, but I fear that I will have problems on painting and clearcoating as that is something I'm not that familiar with.

    @Keith: Thanks for the offer, sending you a pm with my email.

  16. #46
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    Wait is over, got the lipo treys and decals from Kent. I couldn't be more happy with them, their quality is just outstanding!

    Now a big question before I glue everything in the hull: Where should I aim my center of gravity?
    I've had the idea of that cog should be at 32-34% from the sponson transom, but I recall seeing someone writing not long ago that the cat ran fine with cog closer to 40%, just can't find the post anymore.

    Due to the motor placement (so that my lipo packs still fit into the hull) I have about 4% play in the cog which isn't as much as I'd like to have. That's why I'd love to get the cog nailed pretty much on place (a bit hard when I can't run the boat ) so that I wouldn't need to use extra weight to sort it out later as with most of the bits and pieces she weights about 6kg already.

    So please chime in your opinions and experiences about the proper cog!

  17. #47
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    Maybe pack with some foam and run before you glue anything in?
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  18. #48
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    Happy you like the parts, my pleasure :-)
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  19. #49
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    Time to update this thread because too much time has passed since the last time.

    Lipo slide system that Kent provided, couldn't be more happy with those, they work like a charm.
    Lipo trays.jpg

    I was able to run her only once last summer with a hurry. It was far from perfect, full throtle speed was very slow. I came up with three possible explanations: lvc set too high, excessive negative angle on the drives and faulty tx/rx(I was losing signal time to time).

    During winter, I did some work to address the excessive negative angle.
    Fixed drives01.jpg Fixed drives02.jpg
    By embedding the drive supports to the hull I was able to get the drives to neutral position. Besides the work with the drives, I reduced the lvc threshold and changed tx/rx.

    Few images from interior:
    Overview01.jpg Overview02.jpg

    The second run was total opposite to the maiden. No tx/rx problems and she even had gotten more speed. The only issue was that I was getting a bit grease and water inside the hull through one of the drives so need to address that next.
    A vid from that second run:


    Sorry for a short vid, but you didn't miss much as I flipped her over soon after my wife stopped recording
    Lipos, esc's and motors were barely warm so might try bigger props next.
    Will x447 be ok or are there a more suitable props in the propshop's selection? Props are something that I don't know much so I'd be happy for suggestions!
    Moreover I might consider getting 4082 2000kv leos, but I need to find out if I'm able to use these motors in my next build (I know, this one is far from ready, at least with the limited time I have atm lol).

  20. #50
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    Looks nice! Seems like you have some adjustment options with the lipos. At more speed you may have to move them forward a little, but it looks like they are in a good spot. I had the same setup in mine but with 448 props, and speeds in the high 70's. The 442 props call for a bit more rpm if you want greater speed, but for testing it's perfect. I'm glad you like the lipo system, should be awesome once painted...
    Visit www.customcfparts.com | Custom Boat Building | Custom Carbon Fiber Parts | Custom Graphics | LMT Premium Dealer | MGM Premium Dealer | YouTube | Facebook
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  21. #51
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    I have a 41" carbon Fantasm with twin TP Power Pro Competition Series 4050, 6S and 448 props
    But i cant get 100km/h
    I am thinking upgrade it to leopards 4092 1730kv, or 4082 2000kv or 4082 2200kv the get more speedy.
    what you guys say about?
    I also whant to change the stinger.. what you recommended?IMAG1524.jpgIMAG1525.jpgIMAG1526.jpg

  22. #52
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    You should start testing some bigger props man. You have alot of powerful hardware (torquey motors for that matter) that could take you alot faster with the right prop. :)

    Those CF motor mounts look great. How did you use to make them?

  23. #53
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    Default Almost finished

    Reviving an old thread, but I wanted to take this project to finish. After years of delays, got the hull painted, applied decals and clear varnished and man, couldn't be happier. This is how she looks at the moment:

    01.jpg

    02.jpg

    Big thanks to Kent for decals! Those thin line decals around hatches make a difference imo.

    Can't wait to install all the hardware.

  24. #54
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    Wow, that's an old thread. Paint job and details look really good!
    Vac-U-Tug Jr (13mph)

  25. #55
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    Good effort.
    I'm now 5 years into a hull that's still a year away from finish.
    Or 2..
    Lol good to see it shine !!

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