'69 Pay N' Pak Hook Tail Shovel nose 1/10th scale ML Boatworks build thread

[cybercrxt]

Well, I have not done a build thread in a while, and finally getting to build a boat for myself, something I have wanted for a while, a 1/10th scale. Here is the thread so far from IW. Mike:

What does the guy with over 100 laser cut scale kits do when he is bored...cut out a frame kit on the band saw instead of purchasing a laser cut kit of course! I printed out a set of 1/10th scale plans from my laser cut templates,and decided to see how much I like my new bandsaw. I have not cut a frame kit in probably 3 years, so I wanted to see if I was up to the challenge! 3 hours later I had the kit cut and fitted together! I took the paper drawn parts, and contact glued them to the face of the ply I was cutting, and ran it through the band saw and it worked pretty well. My laser guy is backed up with my customers orders, and I have had the itch for a shovel nose build for a while, so decided to just do it. It will either be the Hawaii Kai III, '70 U-00 Lil Buzzard, or the '69 U-25 Hook tail Pak. I am leaning towards the hook tail. Enjoy the pics, Mike

The real boat:

[cybercrxt]

This build is turning into a favorite! I am really liking the shovel nose looks and build. I got a LOT done last night. The rear half of the boat is all glued in, and the front half, while it looks glued in is just taped in place and ready for glue. I still have to put some basswood sticks into some of the openings which is why I have not glued it yet, but it is good and square on the granite, which is nice! The only thing I hate is I may have this thing done very fast and I am enjoying the build to much! I do plan on just offering a sheeting kit for this 103 1/10th scale kit since I am making templates. I actually already had the floor pan designed in cad, so I just printed it out on paper, and hand cut it like I did the rest of this kit. I have decided it will be the '69 Pay N Pak Hook tail. Here are some pics. Mike

[Doug Smock]

Nice!

[JimClark]

drooling

[antslake]

Gorgeous! What are you going to use for power?

[HydroMike]

Nice I like it

[cybercrxt]

Thanks a lot guys. I ordered a scorpion HK-3226- 1600kv for it. Not sure what prop to use tho. I want it to run about 50mph. I went one size larger in motor than the pacific northwest guys are running (the HK-3026-1210kv), so I will have about 150 watts more of ability, so I think I can run 50mph. I weighted the boat last night, in its present state (in pics below) it weight 1lb 8oz...does this sound OK Jim (Clark)? Here is my post this morning from IW:

I am making sheeting templates as well, so this will be a full kit available. Here is last nights progress. All sticks installed. I was hoping to get the sponsons sheeted, but ran out of time. Did get the sponson non trip pattern made and have wood ready to cut when I get home! Mike

[JimClark]

Weight sounds about right. Current boats in RTR condition are weighing 5 to 6 pounds. As far as the prop goes those scorpions can handle bigger props so ax447 to start with and you may be able to get as high as a 51

[cybercrxt]

Jim, even with the 1600kv I can use a x447? I know you guys are running like 1210kv with the x447 right? So should I use something smaller? Also, what are you doing for turn fins on these boats? I am not racing, but I would like it to look real and not put a modern turn fin on the heel. Does the small skid fin on the inside of the sponson work well as the rules in Classic Thunder discuss as far as depth and length?

[JimClark]

Classic thunders turn fin is too small in my opinion I would go with the namba rule for the fin. Some in CT are using the 51mm props with the scorpion. Are you going to turn right or left?

[RandyatBBY]

Nice I am enjoying watching.

[cybercrxt]

Thanks for the info Jim, I got the sponson non trip and ride pads on last night. I plan to put a narrower secondary ride later in the build, but want to get the inside epoxied, hardware fitted, and top decks on, then I will revisit the bottom so I don't risk nicking the pad while doing other things! Also started making templates for the top deck. I found doing two center front strips, and two outside strips, and then rear separately will be the way to go. The compound curve on the hull this size with 1/16" is just to risky to me as I do not want waves in the decking where filler has to be added. I am making templates as I go so this can come with the kit. So far so good! Also made a little skid fin last night from a turtle damaged Virginia Craftsman sport 20 fin. I cut, shaped and cleaned up the edge and face. It should do fine for a boat of this size and speed, and the fact I don't plan to race it anyways! Just want a good realistic running hull. Mike

[T.C.]

Looking good Mike !
I think you should build the boat to NAMBA or West Coast rules though, It will run plenty fast with a PB1500 kv motor, 062 wire drive and a 45-48mm prop.
JMHO T.C.

[cybercrxt]

TC, I already ordered the motor, and also have an adjustable strut I want to run. I know this will limit the resale ability, but I tend to hold on to my personal scale builds, unlike the sport hydros and tunnels I have sold. I am sure that is why you were asking? haha (everyone knows I get tired of my boats and sell them often, lol)

[T.C.]

OK I understand and hope you do keep the boat.
But If you use a .062 wire and mount the adj. strut to the inside transom or inside on the bottom you will still have plenty of adjustment, just use 1/8 brass stuffing tube and make a 1/8 to 1/4 Ferrel for the strut. I am sure Wolts can hook ya up, if not let me know I will.
Just seems a shame to build a beautiful boat (and I'm sure it will be) and it not be legal.
I would bet that someone on this forum would give you a 1500PB motor . lol
Besides you may like turning left !
T.C.

[JimClark]

I would use 1/32 ply on the deck. I used 1/32 on the top and bottom on mine and it worked out great. You can also soak the wood to help shape it before you glue it down.

[cybercrxt]

TC, unfortunately i have never used a wire drive and just dont know anything about them, or even what is needed to make one work. Jim, no 1/32" for me! I cannot stand the stuff. It causes to many waves and is much to fragile unless glass is added overtop of it, and if I am doing all that i might as well use 1/16"! Oh, went ahead and ordered a castle ice 100 controller, should work great with the scorpion 3226-1600kv!I got more sone last night. Made a really nice removable hatch where the dummy motor goes. I am contemplating making a mold and making one out of glass, just have not decided yet if its worthwhile. I will load pics later today. Mike

[monojeff]

Nice mike ill follow the build on here also.
Like I said in our conversation yesterday and for others.
Some of us out here run 450/3 blades on the proboat motors and they have no problem with them.
The scorpion will push it no problem.
447 is a great place to start but I have no doubt it will handle a lot more prop.

Keep up the great work!

[cybercrxt]

Thanks Jeff, sounds like I have a starting point!

Got more done this weekend. Here are the pics. As you can see, got the dummy motor inset tray built, rear hatch built with the complex curve! Had to soak the ply and shape from there. Carbon Veil installed and interior epoxied. Its starting to look good! Mike

[cybercrxt]

Interior epoxied. Moving along now! Mike

[cybercrxt]

I got some cool stuff in the mail yesterday. Got my cowling, dashboard, steering wheel, misc cockpit parts, and a cool rudder he had that is about the nicest I have seen for a boat this size from Mark at RMHydroplanes.com. I also received my Castle Ice 100 esc, and Scorpion HK3226-1600kv motor. So now I have the majority of what I need to move forward with the build. As you can see, I went right to modifying, and fitting the cowling. I decided, with the way this boat is built, that I will make the rear hatch held on with neodymium magnets and keep it a semi "wet well" as nothing will be in there of any significance . I plan on having the electronics all in pockets in the forward cabin, and that will be a tape down hatch. This shovel nose has so much room its amazing compared to pickle fork hydros! Anyways, I am pretty happy with things so far. This boat is not going to be used in a NAMBA race event, so I am overbuilding it, and making it a solid, long lasting boat. This is why I went with a motor slightly larger than allowed to push the possible extra weight I may end up with, but honestly, its still very light, and I suspect it will not be more than 6 or so lbs, which is a significant change vs. the 16lb FE 1/8th scales I am use to! More to come real soon!

[cybercrxt]

[cybercrxt]

Got the rear top deck sides on last night. Still have to trim the edges. Mike

[cybercrxt]

Not as many pics as I wanted to do, but here is the current status of the build. Got the hull pretty much finished up, other than hardware and paint. I have the decks all on, sanded clean. Current weight on the hull with cowl and hatch is around 6lbs. This includes all 1/16" decking, one layer of 2oz cloth on the top deck for added long term strength...so its built to last! Due to that, I figured up with the scorpion, esc, hardware and paint, its going to push 7.5lbs..maybe more. Due to that, I figured up the scorpion is not going to be enough to push this to 50mph, so I decided to scratch that idea. I am not racing this, and weight was never something I was worrying about as I knew I could use what I wanted for power and have fun...so, with that in mind, I have a 1521 1y 1577kv motor and hydra 240esc I am going to use paired up with (2) 4s Hyperion 3300mah, 45c packs for a 6600mah setup. Ordered a Hitec waterproof digital servo and some driveline hardware when OSE opened up yesterday, so maybe I will get that stuff by saturday. Also picked up the Light Persimmon Metalic dupont basecolor as well. I know a 1521 is overkill, but I can prop it down, and have a very cool running setup with an 8lb rtr hull! Enjoy the pics, Mike


OH, and you will also notice I did away with the drop in tray for the motor hatch cover. I did what I think is a lot cleaner looking setup, and more realistic looking inset with flat epoxy glass hatch..

[cybercrxt]

and the motor...

[studioRS]

Such a kewl build, I like the fact it is going to be overpowered! Could you please share more details on the painting aspects of this? Like primer used, paint, etc? Thanks.

Glad I subscribed to your thread, planning to build a 1/10 Gary Finlay 1954 Jones "Lake Tahoe Yacht Club, Breathless U-22" and inspired by your set up.

I used to work for Marine Specialties way back in 1976, RC boats go deep in my roots.

[studioRS]

Oh, just for kicks I think I'll run an old Marine Specialties rudder. Might not be the latest gear, but they still are nice to this day.

Just a Q on sealing the birch plywood...
Could water based Minwax Polycrylic have been used to seal the ply instead of epoxy? I know epoxy is stout and really does the job and also acts as an adhesive for all joints.

[cybercrxt]

Sorry for the late reply. I have put the build on hold till I finished up my storage shed, and didn't realize you had posted. I would use epoxy not minwax. Epoxy adds the strength you need. I will be painting the hull soon and will work on the details for that soon as well. I am using Dupont Nason products....2k Urethane primer, nason basecoat, and nason 496-00 panel clear coat. Talk soon, Mike

[srislash]

Just poking my head in here,but I just love the cockpit gauges and wheel.

[cybercrxt]

Here is a pic of the same dash in my 1/8th scale U-64 Squire Shop Build. Its a pretty good fit on 1/10th and 1/8th scale setups I think! Mike