Help me build a Sniper 45"

[lenny]

Looking at it a little closer I would use a thin rubber vacuum cap,
And the cap will stop the oil from getting all over in the hull.
I am not sure what you have going on there,
But I think you just need the T bar to be a snug fit to the tube.
Like if you back off on the bolt that holds the tube and spread it open some,
Like it was when new.
Then see how much room you have to work with around the tube.

[kevinpratt823]

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Here is my solution (for now) and a better view of what I was talking about. The tube by itself when the clamp was as tight as I could get it, was still a tad loose. The tube with a peice of heat shrink on it(4th pic) wouldn't even fit in even with the clamp backed way out and a little prying(notice the screwdriver marks at the clamp jaw). The tube with a few wraps of teflon tape just fits, and the clamp tightens down enough to keep it from budging or rotating etc., and should provide a good seal. Now I can drill all the way through the oiler hole in the T-bar into the brass tube(5th pic) to allow the oil from the reservoir cup(which threads in to the top of the tube block) to be drawn through to the shaft.

[kevinpratt823]

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I tacked the rear hood scoops on with epoxy, there is only a thin edge to secure to the hatch spots, so I opened it up from the underside with the dremel and glassed them in. When I get some more foam, I will fill them, trim it flat, and glass over that again, so if they do break off, there won't be a wide open hole through the hatch. The middle/top larger scoop has much more gluing surface to it, I think I'll leave it be, maybe drill through and start the hatch foam pour in there.

[kevinpratt823]

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I cut a small peice of CF and glued it to the end of the flooded tube, sanded around flush, then drilled it for he brass sleeve. Glassed it in place, then used Tyler's trick(thanks) to fill in some epoxy from inside the tube with a syringe and long tube. Taped off the motor side and it's standing on end curing now.

edit: when this was finished, I also stuffed a rolled peice of FG under the tube near the front, then flooded it with resin, to secure/support the tube to the hull.

[kevinpratt823]

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One thing I will be needing to do is true up the ride pads. When I put a straight edge to it, I had at least a 1/8" dip to get rid of. I'm thinking this is way too much to just sand out, so any input on how to go about possibly filling in a bit(and with what), then sanding true, would be appreciated.

[Rumdog]

I'd run it first. It will likely run just fine with the small hook.
Also, for the stuffing tube/T-bar fitment, you can just cut a small section of the next larger size in brass tube, and slip it over the end to take up the excessive play.

[RandyatBBY]

I am with Rumdog, My OM 29 has the same thing to run trim tabless. I can run the smallest tabs and be real fast.

[kevinpratt823]

I'd run it first. It will likely run just fine with the small hook.
Also, for the stuffing tube/T-bar fitment, you can just cut a small section of the next larger size in brass tube, and slip it over the end to take up the excessive play.

Thanks, I will try running it he way it is. As far as the T-bar, I'm pretty sure I don't have enough room to fit the next size brass, bu I'm going to pick a length up and try anyway.

[RandyatBBY]

Thanks, I will try running it he way it is. As far as the T-bar, I'm pretty sure I don't have enough room to fit the next size brass, bu I'm going to pick a length up and try anyway.

When you do get some emery paper and size it down on a lathe or a drill press to fit. You could use shim stock from the hardware store K&S makes it.

[CornelP]

I had a similar problem with some collars for a rigger. The easiest solution is to enlarge a bit the slot under the hole (one 10th of a mm at a time) and it will tighten ok...

[kevinpratt823]

I had a similar problem with some collars for a rigger. The easiest solution is to enlarge a bit the slot under the hole (one 10th of a mm at a time) and it will tighten ok...

Thanks, but this is not the problem, the slot/gap is large enough that it's not even close to bottoming out on itself when tightened down, the peice is just so thick and rigid that it barely gives when you tighten the clamping screw.
It will work just fine with the teflon, or anoher sleeve that I come up with, maybe the 3/8" brass turned down as Randy said.

[Heaving Earth]

Couldn't you sleeve the stuffing tube then just drill the t bar hole larger? Or am I not understanding the problem?

[Heaving Earth]

Also have you tried loosening the screws that hold the clamp in place and clamping first? Maybe it needs some relief to close the clamp first...

[kevinpratt823]

Also have you tried loosening the screws that hold the clamp in place and clamping first? Maybe it needs some relief to close the clamp first...

I thought about drilling it out, but I would rather not. I have tried tightening it with the other hardware loose as well. It's really not that big of a problem, it's resolved now with 2 wraps of teflon, I'll sort it out along the way if I want to do something else..

[kevinpratt823]

Can you guys give me an idea on how much torque will be required from a servo for this setup? Thanks.

[RandyatBBY]

Any thing over 160 ounces inch.

[kevinpratt823]

Any thing over 160 ounces inch.

Thanks Randy. Anybody have input on the type of wind and timing settings for a Castle 2028?

[RaceMechaniX]

The 2028 is a Wye Wind, start with 10 Deg.

[kevinpratt823]

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Thanks for all the input, here's a quick update......
Hardware is all mounted, a couple CF batt trays are on the way, and that will just about finish things off until it's ready for trial runs in the spring. I think I'm just going to velcro the esc outside the rail near the motor for now, until I figure out what will work best for CoG and weight distribution. I also painted the windshield and scoops, but I've been caught up lately running cars at an indoor off road track, so they've been getting a lot of love lately also.
I would definitely like to hear input for prop suggestions though. I picked up an X467, X572, and X470(3), is this a good place to start, or are they too much prop for this setup?

[Punisher 67]

Absolutely not with the X470/3 way to much prop for the 2028 , I run a X460/3 on my Neu 2230/1Y and am very happy with it . I would start with a X455/3 - X457/3 for the first shake down run

[kevinpratt823]

Absolutely not with the X470/3 way to much prop for the 2028 , I run a X460/3 on my Neu 2230/1Y and am very happy with it . I would start with a X455/3 - X457/3 for the first shake down run

What about the 2 blade X467, or 2 blade X570, both too much? I can see now how the 1/4" shaft limits the selection, I didn't find much on the OSE store, should I just scrap it(shaft) and go with a shaft that is stepped down now?

[Punisher 67]

Thats still a lot of prop even with a 2 blade

[kevinpratt823]

It floats! This is one of my first runs, with an X457/3 on 10s2p. GPS had just over 60mph on this run, 67.4 with the strut down about 3/16" on a previous run. Now for a bit of fine tuning, gotta try to take some of the positive angle back out of the strut to get the rooster tail a bit flatter, but the bow grabs in some turns and causes it to knife unexpectedly, so I want to calm that down a bit also. COG is as far back as I can get it with this layout for now, and trim tabs were way up and prob not even doing anything. Overall, she ran pretty smooth for starters.

A BIG thanks to those who helped me in this thread, especially Tyler(RaceMachanix) and Punisher67!

[Punisher 67]

Beautiful run Kevin you should be proud but for sure the strut was a little high on the first run . At 67.5mph you are doing great thats pretty much where I am with my 2230/1Y Neu powered Sniper and about 75.0mph with my Lehner 3080 Sniper but that one is a bit of a swine on sucking amps.....LOL .

You are welcome also ............Punisher 67 = Peter.......

[kevinpratt823]

I moved my motor back about 1.5" to try and bring the cog back a bit and it definitely helped with the knifing, runs more consistent now. The boat is pretty heavy though, so in big chop it will definitely submarine if it hops the wrong way.

I have moved the strut down as far as I can with the flooded stuffing tube, and can't put in negative angle as it will make the bow "heavier", and it seems to me I still don't have enough prop in the water. The next step up for a 3 blade is an x470, and that is way too big, would a x465 2 blade seem like a reasonable compromise to get some more blade in the water? Will I lose or gain speed?

[jcald2000]

How were the temps??

[kevinpratt823]

How were the temps??

Temps were up there on the castle data logging, almost 200, but actually came down a bit(175-ish) when I bumped the timing up from 10 to 15 deg, and I was peaking at just under 200 amps. I can't help but wonder if it could be partially because the prop isn't loaded enough. With the flooded tube/strut setup, the prop is close to the transom, and the center of the hub is almost 1/2" above the bottom of the V. Makes me wonder if not enough of the blades are making it into the water.
My Castle burnt up last week and I can't get the data logging to work on(windows XP) the SF240 proHV, but that's a whole other thread.....

[kevinpratt823]

Update: I haven't been able to get the 67mph I thought I had originally, may have been a false reading, I am now running consistently around 57mph, and a 2 blade X465 seems to let the boat handle better with the same speed. Thinking of de-tounging an X470 and giving it a shot, as with the x465 motor was barely over 120 deg, and esc wasn't much hotter. Currently running a SF240hv pro esc, after the castle smoked.

As I said above, I feel that the blades aren't reaching into the water enough, being that the strut won't get down far enough with the flooded tube, and the prop is pretty close to the transom, any opinions about using an extended strut to bring the prop back a bit?.........

[RaceMechaniX]

Did you scuff the bottom? I would be very careful with a X470. That is a lot of prop on 10S.

[kevinpratt823]

Did you scuff the bottom? I would be very careful with a X470. That is a lot of prop on 10S.

I did scuff the rear 1/2 a bit, I'm sure it could use a re scuff though. Honestly I am pretty pleased with how she runs at 57 with the 2 blade, but I have a hard time leaving it be if you know what I mean, always trying something. Any opinion on the extended strut Tyler?