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Thread: Fighercat Cheetah 6s2p

  1. #61
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    Excellent!!

  2. #62
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    FC Cheetah TP4092 1600KV Dinogy 6s2p,Etti Envoy WE 3s, Rico Mono 31" T600 1400kv Dinogy 5100mAh 65c 6s1p
    Popeye Hydro T600 1400kv 6s1p

  3. #63
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    I think it shows best on video at the end when its coming off plane, how long it stays on step and doesnt immediately nose dive at anything less than 40.

  4. #64
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    Thats a massive,massive improvment in the handlling. its sure is on rails now. and only a bit of filler!
    as only a novice i was pretty certain that the hull was not performing right, just took me 12 months to get the answer
    if I could get my hands on another Cheetah in the UK I would buy one today to build as a twin, after seeing this.
    Brian whats the 4s twin setup you are using? HET motors and t180s?
    still might be tempted to have another one.
    Last edited by sampit; 12-10-2012 at 07:29 AM.
    FC Cheetah TP4092 1600KV Dinogy 6s2p,Etti Envoy WE 3s, Rico Mono 31" T600 1400kv Dinogy 5100mAh 65c 6s1p
    Popeye Hydro T600 1400kv 6s1p

  5. #65
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    Brian (rckong) and I are both running castle 1515 1y (2200kv) motors. Im running sea king 180s, I think he's got castle controllers in his?

  6. #66
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    Thanks Tiqueman

    Im not sure were i got the name Brian i thought that was you lol digging around old post i think.
    so seakings 180s and castle 1515 1ys what size packs and prop size you using? and how long runtime flat out do you think you can get
    will base my next build on you setup.but might try the TP Power 2200KV might be easier for me to get.
    Last edited by sampit; 12-10-2012 at 08:25 AM.
    FC Cheetah TP4092 1600KV Dinogy 6s2p,Etti Envoy WE 3s, Rico Mono 31" T600 1400kv Dinogy 5100mAh 65c 6s1p
    Popeye Hydro T600 1400kv 6s1p

  7. #67
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    No worries. I had mentioned in a post on the last page the brian now knows my secret. thats probably where you got it from.

    The video was actually on one of the sets of my LSO batteries for my Geico, 4S 4000mah 30C. the batts I usually run in it and drained all that I had trying to figure out an esc issue yesterday are 5300mah 40C. 1P each side. I run 6 laps for a complete race and on aluminum 448s it pulls my batts down as far as I want them to go. So its literally less than a minute and a half? On the 445s that were run in the vid I get a bit more, but I still typically only run 6 laps and Im done. And thats wide open at least 90% of the time. Im not one who likes to go to the LVC so I dont know truly how long it will actually run before it poops out.
    -Scott

  8. #68
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    Im thinking i may be better to go with a 6s twin setup, save me some dollar, i have 2 new spare 6s packs 5100 65c maybe these maybe a bit big or i also have 2x 3700 6s 65c packs
    and go with a pair of the new TP 3640 1290kv or 1420kv or 1570kv on 6s im thinking the 1290 would give longer run times? might get away with T120s

    .http://www.tppower.com/sort.asp?class_id=4&news=55
    Last edited by sampit; 12-10-2012 at 09:08 AM.
    FC Cheetah TP4092 1600KV Dinogy 6s2p,Etti Envoy WE 3s, Rico Mono 31" T600 1400kv Dinogy 5100mAh 65c 6s1p
    Popeye Hydro T600 1400kv 6s1p

  9. #69
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    Scott, looks like it is airing out nicely, good looking run on the 45's... Guys this boat rips on the 48mm CNC props on 4's. good temps too. Oh I'm running T180's too

    Sampit - IMO 3640's will be a bit small for this boat with 6's packs. I'd run at least a 4074 or 4082 size motor with the 5100 packs.

  10. #70
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    Wow, Thanks all.
    I just got my first cheetah this week (also my first Catamaran) I will do this mod straight away.
    Ill just follow the pics that tiqueman posted. Perhaps this thread should get a sticky note, like the Geico race prep thread.
    Last edited by larryrose11; 04-26-2013 at 11:10 AM.
    Cheetah, Super Rio, (Mod) Starship (Mod and sold),

  11. #71
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    If you are set on a twin then go for it but if you're looking for a 6S race setup I would use a single Neu 1527/1Y I get 60+ for 4 minutes and have 25-30% left in my batteries with my SC and the cheetah seems to be a similar size and handling boat, (it sure looks prettier than the SC too)!!!!!
    We call ourselves the "Q"

  12. #72
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    Hey Tiq I'm curious if you ever tried to angle you're rudder back? this will bring the nose of the boat up, it's a simple trick that works without changing any setup like strut angle and CG, all you need is a couple of degrees 2-5, I use this as a quick tuning trick if a boat is running too wet. I would also check to see if the rudder is angled in towards the front of the boat as this can cause the boat to nose in. I had a problem with a scale boat that it was lifting on the straights, then I noticed that the transom was angled and was causing the rudder to be angled back, I shimmed it out and the boat was perfect after that.
    We call ourselves the "Q"

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by madmikepags View Post
    Hey Tiq I'm curious if you ever tried to angle you're rudder back? this will bring the nose of the boat up, it's a simple trick that works without changing any setup like strut angle and CG, all you need is a couple of degrees 2-5, I use this as a quick tuning trick if a boat is running too wet. I would also check to see if the rudder is angled in towards the front of the boat as this can cause the boat to nose in. I had a problem with a scale boat that it was lifting on the straights, then I noticed that the transom was angled and was causing the rudder to be angled back, I shimmed it out and the boat was perfect after that.

    The leading edge of the rudder actually is back a bit on an angle. Its strictly a hull problem. And not just a turn issue as I often see, but more like a constant plowing while being set up the way a cat should be. Ive never, out of over 50 cats Ive owned or built for people, had to put positive angle on a stinger. I had about 3 degrees up on my cheetah, as far as I could get them to go, and it still wanted to plow. Now they are running at 0 with a simple truing. But thinks for bringing that up. Ive tweaked a few gassers with tha trick, but always tucking it rather than pushig it out. have never had to do it on a FE.

    -Scott

  14. #74
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    All ready to do my hull mod

    Does the filler mod only apply when building twin powered Cheetahs or will it work on a single setup?

    I have placed some timber along my rear two soonsons and I notice that the two pads are not flat but angled, as if the hull was removed from the mould before it was fully cured,
    do I try and fill both pads to make them flat and level
    little bit worried in case i make them worse but the way mine runs as it is, i think anythink would be better.

    My hull is number 5
    so one of the very first batch
    FC Cheetah TP4092 1600KV Dinogy 6s2p,Etti Envoy WE 3s, Rico Mono 31" T600 1400kv Dinogy 5100mAh 65c 6s1p
    Popeye Hydro T600 1400kv 6s1p

  15. #75
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    sampit,
    please report back with your findings.
    I am makinf a Cheetah single, and plan on this mod as well.
    Cheetah, Super Rio, (Mod) Starship (Mod and sold),

  16. #76
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    Doesn't matter how many motors. Its all in the hull so yes, it will work just as well on a single.the forward soon son has a slight neg angle. Match that to the rear as best u can.

  17. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiqueman View Post


    I think it shows best on video at the end when its coming off plane, how long it stays on step and doesnt immediately nose dive at anything less than 40.
    looks really good!
    how fast is she going?
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

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