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Thread: 56-1nch Venom P-1 gas to brushless question

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    This is a brand new boat. The motor has never been fired. Im thinking $120 shipped for the complete motor, mounts, clutch, tuned pipe.
    ....

    i am sorry if i over looked it but do you still have the motor??
    Last edited by justski; 01-12-2013 at 06:08 PM.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    Because the motor gets closer to the bottom of the hull the further back I move it, and it hits the steps in the hull.
    Makes sense!

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doby View Post
    Makes sense!
    Actually i took a second look, if I turn the motor mounts upside down and dremmel away a little epoxy, i think I might get the motor back enough to use the stock stuffing tube. Thanks for prompting me to take a second look doby!
    Last edited by forescott; 01-14-2013 at 12:39 AM.

  4. #34
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    That sounds like a good fix,
    Or just flip the front one around and the back one flipped around and upside down.
    Are you going to mod the trim tabs / Turn fins ?
    Like I did on my P1 35"and just add good turn fins.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    Actually i took a second look, if I turn the motor mounts updide down and dremmel away a little epoxy, i think I might get the motor back enough to use the stock stuffing tube. Thanks for prompting me to take a second look doby!
    No problem...my standard consulting fee applies though.....

  6. #36
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    Did you sell the motor.OK SORRY I SEEN IT NOW

  7. #37
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    I got a little work done to the p-1. Motor mounted, flex shaft cut, cooling lines hooked up. Next im going to mount the sf300 and make up some battery trays.
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358100886.599681.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358101112.635764.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358101124.986463.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358101136.052555.jpg

  8. #38
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    Hey,
    That worked out great.
    And looking nice and clean.

  9. #39
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    Made a small mounting plate out of 3/16 hobby grade plywood that I'm going to mount on top of the stringers just in front of the motor. This will allow for the wires from the esc to drop down under the plate and give them room to bend.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358102600.541424.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358102613.413563.jpg

  10. #40
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    Almost there. Made some battery trays out of 2" aluminum flat stock and 1/2 x 3/4-90. Pop riveted the pieces together an used two bolts each to attach them to the stringers. I will use some epoxy on the other side of the trays where they sit on the hull. I'm just gonna lay some 2" velcro on the trays. A little wood glue and some small screws to attach the esc mount. Just gonna use some velcro and a couple of zip ties to hold the esc in place. I want the esc to come out easy so I can remove it for reading data logging info. Just waiting on some more 8mm bullets I ordered and then seal up all the holes and openings in the canopy.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358209962.118287.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358209985.894308.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358210002.066467.jpg

  11. #41
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    Little more done today. Sealed up the old kill switch hole with a drain plug from an old mean machine, layed the velcro in the battery trays, reinforced some of the wood stringers with extra epoxy, and polished a 1/2 inch piece of brass tube and filled it with epoxy to take the place of the gas exaust pipe where it exited the hull.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358299398.420889.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358299408.265707.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358299418.644386.jpg

  12. #42
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    Got my program box yesterday. All ready for a trial run. 57mm carbon 2-blade on 8s lipo. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359336900.237495.jpg

  13. #43
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    Determined to finally get this boat in the water this weekend. Bought some thin plexiglass from tap plastics and heated and bent a piece into place. Epoxied it in the best I could. Got a little epoxy on the windshield so I decided to paint the whole window section black from underneath to cover any imperfections. Now i'm gonna fill the front section of the canopy with 2 part foam to ensure their wont be any leaks and keep the canopy afloat if it somehow comes off.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1362187675.954755.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1362187730.953385.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1362187743.154073.jpg

  14. #44
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    The foam will also act as backing to reinforce the thin flimsy stock windshield.

  15. #45
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    Anyone know if i can buy two part foam at my local hardware store? Home depot? Lowes?

  16. #46
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    I would add more glass to the hole hatch,
    And than I would add some foam of some kind for flotation.
    That is a weak spots waiting to happen.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  17. #47
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    OK heres some terrible video I took by myself of the p-1 I've been trying to get the bugs out of. Im having issues with cavitation, the hull wanting to hook right all the time, and general low top speed. Running the stock 54mm 3-blade from my atomic arc, 10s, castle 2028. FE calc says I should be seeing about 50mph. This run max speed was 36, with lots of cavitation, and a nervous driver trying to keep the boat going straight. The hooking problem goes away as the boat accelerates. I think the stock stinger is a crummy design and is mounted too high on the hull, so since I'm running a much smaller prop than the stock 68mm gas prop, I have to trim the stinger way down to get it to hook up and get on plane. But the stinger angle is too far negative once its on plane. Could the fact that I can't get the prop far enough in the water cause it to act like a paddle wheel, pushing the back end to the left, making the boat steer right?? I think I might need a prop of at least 60mm, and probably a different stinger to correct the drive angle. Any thoughts?? Oh yeah and the props haft is 5mm so I'd need to replace it with a 1/4 shaft stepped down to 3/16 to run any props other than What I have.


  18. #48
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    @ 40 seconds I bring it in and zoom in. I think thats just making it more difficult to keep the boat in frame. Wont be doing that anymore. Ill be uploading some pics of the stinger soon.

  19. #49
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    some pics of the stinger, drive angle, and overall bananna shape of the hull bottom??
    Attached Images Attached Images

  20. #50
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    one more...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  21. #51
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    Can you post some pictures of the setup in the hull and where cells are sitting at in the hull ?

    That 54mm cat prop is probably a lifter and not going to work to good on a mono,
    But test with it anyway for now.

    First thing I would do is get that stinger pointing up about 1/8" to 3/16 from the bottom of the hull,
    And take the spacing washer off at the prop dog and just keep a gap of 3/16 to 1/4 there.

    Also move the trim tabs up about 3/16" to 1/4 at the ends of them.

    Than I would move the cells back towards the transom about 2" if you have the room,
    Maybe more.

    The rudder also looks like it is kicked in towards the bottom of the boat,
    And that will bring the bow down.
    Try to get it straight and level and snug it up tight.

    Than do a test run and see how it rides and get up on plane,
    And check for speeds to.
    Just do not push it to fast because it will not be that stable just yet.
    Last edited by lenny; 02-05-2014 at 11:29 PM.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  22. #52
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    Still working on the issues. Got a new speedmaster 1/4" stinger and new stepped down shaft to accept 3/16 props. I have a new 55mm cnc 2-blade and also a 59mm 3-blade as well. So I got the old stinger off and dremmeled the existing stuffing tube exit hole down flush with the hull bottom. Installed the new stinger and also new smaller stuffing tube with the correct bend. The stock tube was a straight piece of aluminum with 2 teflon tubes inside. I was able to dremmel the rudder mount holes a little to correct the angle. Also the rails are 2-ply plywood and the radio box screws down from the top onto the rails and the screws seperated the plies of wood. Trying the quick fix with wood glue and clamps. Might have to figure something else out if the glue doesnt hold. Just waiting on a new pair of turnigy nano-tech A-spec 65-130c 5s lipos that I want to try out and run as a 1P setup. Run times will be short, but I think this hull will do better with less weight.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  23. #53
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    No gap why ?
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  24. #54
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    Just mocked up Lenny, everything is still loose. Just trying to get a pic of the drive setup compared to previous post of the stock hardware.

  25. #55
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    Ok,
    But I am talking about at the bottom of the hull and stinger.
    Normally you need a 1/8" or more gap there,
    Or have it so you can slide the stinger mount up or down for adjustments.
    That is if the mount has slotted bolt holes in it.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  26. #56
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    Just waiting on a set of these before I re-test.
    http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...arehouse_.html

    Not sure what you are asking Lenny. Are you talking about the bottom of the stinger bracket being 1/8 above the bottom of the hull?

  27. #57
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    Yes.
    ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

    My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

  28. #58
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    Resurrecting this old thread. I never got a chance to finish this project. After installing the new stinger, it sat for a while and I sold the electronics. Yesterday I bought a motor and esc from a zelos 48 that I am installing to run on 8s with a 52mm prop. Hoping for good results.

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